He once dressed up for "Wang Xizhi", "Sixth Finger Demon" and "Aunt Xue", how to restore the traditional beauty of the same shadow clothing artist | Share before bedtime

For the first time, wearing Luo Yi Guang sleeves and transformed into Wei Jin's beauty. The staff of the crew of "Love in the Pen" were amazing by the ancient costumes of Zhao Jing, an actor of the film actor troupe. Today, 40 years later, the old -fashioned, fresh and elegant clothing shape in this old movie still makes the audience shout. On Douban, "Love in the Pen" has 8.5 points. Many people call the character selection and clothing and props in the film.

In recent years, costume film and television dramas have often caused controversy due to clothing. In the world of fairy Xia, the fairy and God are wearing the same gauze. In the costume idol drama, various elements of dynasties are mixed and match. The web drama "My name is Liu Jinfeng" was removed from the shelves because of the oversupply of clothing. Recently, the State Administration of Radio, Film and Television held a symposium on TV drama creation, pointing out that costume drama art should truly restore the basic style of architecture, clothing, clothing, and makeup in the historical period involved in the historical period. Do not use it at will and follow the trend to imitate foreign style. Many viewers can't help doubt when they clap their hands:

Why the old films and old dramas of the previous

Can make a simple and elegant, restore era

Which breath is there now?

Jiefang Daily · Shangguan News reporter

Dialing the phone from Zhuang Peiling, a clothingist in Shanghai Film Studio

Listening to her adventure and hard work behind this line

Style to serve the characters

In addition to CCTV's "Dream of Red Mansions", the movie "Love in the Pen" produced by the Shanghai Film Studio in 1982 was also regarded as a classic representative. It is Zhuang Peiling for this movie. She has also made clothing styles for the movie "Sunrise", "Sixth Fingers", TV series "Deep Rainy Rain" and so on.

How does film and television drama and apparelist work? "First of all, watch the script." Zhuang Peiling introduced that after getting the script, she used to list the main characters one by one, watch the age, age, and identity of their lives, and design clothing according to the characteristics of the characters. Usually, the color of young people's clothing will be a bit bright, and the color of the elderly clothing will be a little darker. When the festive scenes and the emotions of the characters are low, the clothing color must be reflected. These are from the script.

After preliminary ideas, the clothing artist would communicate with the director, "Do a play, you have to touch the director many times."

"Love in the Pen" is directed by Yan Bili, telling the story of calligrapher Zhao Xuzhi and the daughter of Qi Taiwei, Wen Juan. With her encouragement, she travels three times to study calligraphy, quit arrogance and irritability, and eventually understand the true meaning of calligraphy. Zhao Xuzhi's prototype is Wang Xizhi, a big calligrapher in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, and the costume props in the film also uses that era as a reference. In order to restore the ancient atmosphere, Zhuang Peiling and others did a lot of preliminary data collection. At that time, she went to the film room to check the information room of the film bureau.

Many audiences feel that the clothing shape of "Love in the Pen" has the charm of "Luo Shen Fu Tu". When the characters are talking, traveling, and banquets, the clothes they wear are clearly different. In the scene of Qu Shui Liuye, Zhao Xuzhi and other characters also wore wooden crickets. This is a popular style in the Eastern Jin Dynasty. Now it is almost difficult for it to see in costume dramas. This is also when Zhuang Peiling found the information and found that it was made by the woodworking to the factory.

There is also the plot of "Bi Zi" recruiting relatives in the movie. Interestingly, Wang Bowei, who plays Zhao Xuzhi, plays the Chi Chongrui of Shu Shu, and later played Xiaobai Dragon and Tang Seng in "Journey to the West". Elderly. It is said that Wang Bowa Chongrui was the opportunity to appear in "Journey to the West" because of his performance and appearance in "Love in the Pen".

From satin to Joe Qisha

In order to make clothing, Zhuang Peiling often goes to various fabric stores in Shanghai to buy ingredients, and is also a cooked customer in Dongjiadu wholesale market. When filming "Deep Love", because there are many fabrics that are needed, they are purchased by van.

In the costume drama, the fabric has the effect of distinguishing the identity of the characters. For example, the three ladies of the Qi family in "Love in the Pen" are mostly satin, while the people of the people use ordinary cotton cloth and must not wear mixed. At that time, the price of satin was not expensive, and the clothing artist would be saved as much as possible based on the cost budget. "Sometimes the general fabric can also make a good visual effect." Zhuang Peiling feels that it is a pity that the fabric store in Shanghai today is becoming increasingly difficult Looking for, the crew is more accustomed to buying clothes.

In the 1990s, the Hong Kong film industry ushered in new opportunities in the mainland market. "Tong Yan" "Jiupin Sesame Officer", etc., the work teams such as clothing and props on Shangying also participated in the production of these films.

Zhuang Peiling is a clothing artist in the "Sixth Finger Qin Mo" crew, while the film and design of the art and modeling design are the Hong Kong clothing designer Zhang Shuping.

"Sixth Fingers" is adapted from the novel of the same name in Ni Kuang. Wu Qinqi was co -produced by the Shanghai Film Studio and Hong Kong Royal Produce Co., Ltd., starring Lin Qingxia, Yuan Biao, and Carina Lau. Among them, the "six -finger piano demon" Huang Dong's head wearing an exaggerated buns played by Lin Qingxia. The gauze was elegant with the wind, and the evil and domineering shape captured the hearts of many fans, but some audiences did not conform to history.

"The main actors of" Sixth Finger Qin Mo "are all transported from Hong Kong. The costumes of mass actors are selected from Shangying clothing warehouses." On the set, Zhuang Peiling organized clothing according to the director's request to help the main actors wearing neatly. "Lin Qingxia is very easy -going. When I left, I also gave me a few sets of her husband's brand clothes. We have been talking and laughing on the set." There are several sets of costumes, some of which are dressed for stand -in, some are to prevent hanging prestige. Asian damage. When preparing clothing for martial arts, Zhuang Peiling usually prepares more than three sets for a style, and the style and quality of the stand -up and spare clothes should be consistent. "After watching the script with experienced clothing, you can estimate that each scene needs to prepare a few sets."

When Lin Qingxia was dressed as a "six -finger piano", Zhuang Peiling noticed that the fabrics used in these clothing were thin gauze, including Joe Qi, polyester, etc., and layers of layers. "Qiao Qisha is much cheaper than satin, beautiful is beautiful, but it is disconnected from the age."

The costume and drama of costumes have also been criticized by many audiences. Zhuang Peiling once starred in Li Bingshu and released in 1980. In her opinion, the story film and opera film are completely different, and the shape must not be confused. "We pay attention to the consideration of life. The shape should be walking towards the way of life.

"Hong Kong designers do not have so many concepts of historical age. If I come to do it, they will still design clothing according to the age." Zhuang Peiling said.

I am tired of doing this

"It's tired of doing this." Zhuang Peiling said.

For more than 20 years retired, she likes to travel around the world and use her mobile phone to play games, as if she wants to make up for the leisure and entertainment she lost at work before. "Clothing, props, and makeup are very hard. Makeup is earlier than us, especially the ancient costumes are more time -consuming. We spend more energy. We need to move to the scene in clothing, replace, adjust, and look at it. After receiving work at night, we still We must sort out the main actors that the main actors need the next day, including the group performances. "

A show, often running outside for half a year. "Love in the Pen" was shot in Taishan, and Zhuang Peiling also followed the mountain. In order to shoot the sunrise, the crew waited several mornings in a row. It is summer to shoot "Deep Love", and the actor sweats well, and Zhuang Peiling takes wine to spray the actor to remove the sweat. There are more than a dozen people in the clothing department, and two people are responsible for washing clothes.

In 1964, in response to the lack of the lack of talents in Shanghai film technology, the Shanghai Film Bureau opened a vocational school, including makeup, clothing, props, lighting, screening, and printing.

Zhuang Peiling remembers that a total of 108 students, and 10 people in makeup, clothing, and props. The campus is on Damiqiao Road, and the stunt workshop of Shanghai Film Studio is also nearby. After enrollment, everyone takes basic courses, including chemistry, Chinese, etc., and will be divided into majors one year later. Zhuang Peiling was assigned to the clothing group. "I am interested in clothing myself, and I still have to win a prize when drawing in middle school." Later, all these students stayed in Shanghai. Most of them entered the Shanghai Film Studio. Behind the scenes.

After entering the Shanghai Film Studio, Zhuang Peiling's first scene was the "Our Little Flower Cat" directed by the famous director Wu Yizuo in 1980. Because it is a modern drama, the costumes are relatively simple. It is mainly based on the requirements of the characters and age, buy materials, and then give it to the tailor workshop production. "Our Little Cat" is also the first work directed by Wu Yizheng.

In Shanghai Film Studio, makeup, clothing, and props are clear. "Hats, clothes, gloves, socks, shoes, etc. are all our tubes on the body; those wearing on their heads, including jewelry and cosmetic tubes; In the "Qin Mo", Zhuang Peiling found that the division of labor in Hong Kong and Taiwan crews was not the same. She believes that this approach helps to coordinate design, but the tradition of Shangying also has advantages. It is also done to professional people to do professional people and perform their duties.

The Shanghai Film Studio also has clothing design, but most of them are done by the clothing artist, and the specific clothing production is completed by the tailor workshop. Zhuang Peiling has never learned sewing, but sometimes she encounters unexpected situations. Some small clothing changes can also complete. Once on the set, the costumes of the performance artist Qin Yi were slightly larger, and Zhuang Peiling took it by himself and put the belt a little bit.

In 2001, the TV series "Love Deep Rain" was adapted from Qiong Yao's original novel "Smoke Rain". The two sides of the strait co -produced, Zhuang Peiling served as a clothing shape. Most of the crew staff came from Shangdi Factory, and several rooms in the factory were used to store clothing.

In the play, the Shanghai clothing shape was used in the 1930s and 1940s, and Zhuang Peiling was handy. "There are also clothes brought by Taiwan, but most of them are prepared. Some dresses are available in the warehouse. Cheongsam is selected from the old tailoring of cheongsam." Cheongsam design must also be based on the script and the script and the script and the script and the script and Character adjustment, such as Aunt Xue's clothing, will be sophisticated, and the color is jumping, reflecting her character.

Zhuang Peiling also considers the details of the cheongsam. "Following the financial resources, if you have money, the cheongsam is naturally longer, the buttons are bigger and more beautiful."

When doing the clothing of "Deep Love", Zhuang Peiling has clearly felt that film and television dramas are getting more and more anxious."We used to make a movie, and the actors had to live in the live, and the shooting was more real. Later, as soon as the creation team was established, the filming was started. Some TV series even made 10 episodes a month." To respect history, it takes time to check the information.Need to sink to complete your work.Zhuang Peiling hopes that the current TV series can give the clothing a little more time.

Liberation Daily · Shangguan News Original manuscript, reprinting without permission

Author: Zhong Yan

WeChat Editor: Jiasimin School Division: CP

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