Why do domestic costume dramas blow up Japanese style ③ | Call: learn more about history and more understand the beauty of traditional

Recently, the design of clothing design in many film and television dramas has caused a lot of controversy. Chen Shiyu, a historian of ancient costumes, believes that the spread of film and television dramas is relatively large. When a child with no historical basic cognition sees, the characters in Chinese costume dramas are wearing traditional Japanese costumes, and he may think that it is what the ancient Chinese should have It looks, "We should not just fool the costume design of the historical background, or need a certain sense of responsibility."

On July 4, the State Administration of Radio, Film and Television held a symposium on TV drama creation, and the relevant person in charge particularly emphasized that it is necessary to strengthen cultural self -confidence, inherit Chinese civilization, and truly restore the building, clothing, clothing, makeup, etc. in the historical period involved in costume dramas. Style appearance, do not use it at will, follow the trend to imitate foreign style. Perhaps similar clothing problems will be resolved in the future.

， 真

The criticism of domestic costume dramas has recently fallen on the head of the clothing road, and many film and television costumes have been approved as "Tai Japan". The reason is of course related to more and more traditional culture enthusiasts. When everyone understands the deeper culture of Japan, South Korea, and ancient China, it can naturally distinguish between the differences. The people who watch are serious, and the people who shoot will have to be serious. Don't think that you can "mask": the details are so strict, let alone the plot.

Chen Shiyu participated in the design of "Qingpingle" clothing modeling

The recent domestic drama "Japanese Wind" has obviously attracted the attention of the competent authority. On July 4th, the State Administration of Radio, Film and Television held a symposium on TV drama creation, and the relevant person in charge particularly emphasized that it is necessary to strengthen cultural self -confidence, inherit Chinese civilization, and truly restore the basic style of buildings, clothing, clothing, makeup and other basic styles in the historical period involved in costume dramas. Do not use it at will and follow the trend to imitate foreign style.

Some insiders admitted in an interview with Red Star Journalists that the signals conveyed by this meeting were obviously to rectify such problems in costume dramas and clothing for many years, and they would definitely strengthen this review. The TV series that is being filmed or prepared may take a good look at the problem of taking the road, and never hit the muzzle.

首 good designer, first understand the traditional Chinese aesthetics

As a film and television clothing designer, what kind of quality should be?

Chen Shiyu believes that the film and television drama clothing designers must first understand the traditional Chinese aesthetics and let the audience recognize the beauty of China from the design. "I have come into contact with some designers, and it is really difficult to appreciate the beauty of Chinese cultural relics in my heart. If I do not know the aesthetic ability of China's aesthetics, it is difficult to enhance this beauty and pass it out. This can only be followed by the buttocks in the West. Later, do some designs that can't stand the scrutiny, can not stand the precipitation, and cannot form the right to speak in East. "

Chen Shiyu participated in the design of "National Treasure" clothing modeling

Second, we must have the ability to correctly collect historical materials. "Some designers lack basic concepts, and they can't even distinguish the differences between Chinese, Japanese, China and South Korea's traditional costumes. The information of the information will form a ridiculous design by the wrong material. "

Chen Shiyu said that the costume designers of film and television dramas must of course have the ability to design and transform. The costume design of film and television dramas is always for performances. When designers design, designers need to consider the audience and the present aesthetics. They also need to consider various aspects such as lens, lighting and other aspects. "The lens of TV and the movie is different, and the stage of the drama is different from the film and television drama. The designer needs to design and transform different costumes according to different stages and content, and transform historical materials into different artistic languages. The audience can better feel the beauty of history through our design. "

装 Secret: Costume design in costume dramas

To this day, when the audience appreciates a film and television drama, in addition to watching moving stories, it will also put forward higher requirements for the serving road. "Chang'an Twelve hours", "Yulouchun", "Qing Pingle" and "Dream Huamu" and other costume dramas have made a particular extent and have Chinese charm, which enriches the visual experience of the audience. How does a costume designer of a film and television drama work?

"Chang'an Twelve hours" stills

Chen Shiyu introduced that the clothing design of film and television dramas has begun at least three months or half a year before the startup, and some dramas even have longer preparations.

The first step is to read the script, get all information that affects the change of clothing, organize a small pass, and understand the age and occasions of the characters. "For example, a drama tells the story of the Tang Xuanzong period. It is clear whether it is a Tianbao or Ten years or twenty years of the Kaiyuan or twenty years? Will you experience seasonal and festivals? Is this character identity, a civilian or emperor? What kind of occupation is it? You also need to understand the character's personality and application scenarios. The same character goes to shoot, read, or participate in the DPRK, his clothing is definitely different. Regional information is also important. For example, the Tang Dynasty's drama, even the character in Chang'an or the Western Regions, Yangzhou or Luoyang. In the area, the dress style will definitely be different. "

In Chen Shiyu's words, this is just the basic information. After reading the script, the designer needs to collect the information of the clothing according to the clues of the previous clues to collect the cultural relics information information in the relevant period. "We are relatively strict during the distinguished period. Maybe most designers are the keywords of the Tang Dynasty when they are doing the background episodes of the Tang Dynasty. For example, the aesthetics of the Tang Xuanzong period must be different from the Tang Taizong period, and there is a difference in temperament. "The third step is to design the concept map, set the overall color, and then conduct a round of round with the director, producer, and screenwriter team. One round of scrutiny modification. Finally, after the final settings, go to the factory for production.

Chen Shiyu participated in the design of "Qingpingle" clothing modeling

Chen Shiyu told Red Star News reporters that the types and investment of each drama are different, and the number of clothing produced by the crew is also different. Generally the protagonist may have a dozen to dozens of costumes. For example, the costume drama "Qingpingle" with the background of the story of the story "Qingpingle", there are many characters, with more than 3,000 sets of clothing.

Red Star reporter Qiu Junfeng intern Mao Yuchuan

Edit Duan Xueying

- END -