Why do domestic costume dramas baked in Japanese style ② | Intellectual: The design of historical figures, how can I let it go?

From the historical costume drama of Chinese historical themes that emerged in the 1980s, the costume shape represented by "Dream of Red Mansions" and "Journey to the West" combines the tradition of opera and archeological materials at that time. It is not completely consistent, but on this basis, it has also made antique and pursuing the ultimate Chinese classical charm.

Unfortunately, decades have passed, and the design of some film and television dramas has not improved, but has begun to copy other countries. Chen Shiyu, a historian of ancient costumes, believes that as the archaeological data are announced more and more and more and more channels for understanding history, everyone pays more and more attention to traditional culture. I can't keep up.

The road to evolution: drawing, recovery, innovation

Chinese costume dramas have emerged from the 1980s, represented by episodes such as "Dream of Red Mansions", "Journey to the West" and "Liao Zhai Zhi Yi", combined with the traditional opera tradition and archeological data at the time. It may not match its history and identity, but on this basis, it has also made antique and pursuing the ultimate Chinese classical charm.

The stylist of "Dream of Red Mansions" reads the original book and reads the classics. The character in the play design a unique and exquisite bun based on his personality: Daiyu is weak and sorrowful, Baodi is elegant and dignified, Qingwen is straightforward, Wang Xifeng Rich and gorgeous ... The whole drama goes to the concubine, the old lady, and the ladies and ladies.

"Dream of Red Mansions" character styling (Lin Daiyu, Xue Baozhen)

In the 1990s, costume dramas in Hong Kong and Taiwan in my country made more innovations, and intended to integrate certain modern elements during design. The characters in the play are rarely seen in the buns like "Journey to the West" and "Dream of Red Mansions". The modern bangs and hair have gradually entered the audience's vision. Men's hairstyle changes are even more "wild".

Under the hands of the stylist in the Hong Kong and Taiwan regions, a large number of modern short hair, dyeing, curly hair and other elements appear on the head of the male lead in the costume. Today, Jiao Enjun in "Feng Yun" and "Little Li Fei Dao" have become the two extremes of the male lead of the "costume bubble noodle". There are two major design elements: short hair and picking dye.

"Little Fish and Flowers Nothing" double male protagonist style

In addition to hairstyle, clothing design also began to boldly use modern elements: tassel, silk threads, velvet flowers, feathers, suspenders, etc., all mixed together. Now it seems that although it is somewhat flower and green, it gives people a plastic texture, but it was very fashionable at the time.

"Yanxi Raiders" stills

In the past ten years, the costume design of costume dramas has been bloomed and has been arguing. More and more producers have begun to attach importance to service and emphasize the restoration of history. Among them, the 2018 costume palace drama "Yanxi Raiders" can be described as a dark horse, which is highly restored to historical figures as the starting point. The color is implicitly handled, showing an ancient restrained aesthetic characteristics.

Stills of "Crane Huahua Pavilion"

"Heya Huating", which has been praised by many clothing and historical enthusiasts, is an overhead historical background, but in terms of clothing styles, it is used as a reference. For example, the lion pattern of Qi Wang's clothing in the play restores the fabric patterns of the fabric; Zhao Guifei's big shirt refers to the portrait of the grandmother of Song Tai's grandmother Du Tu; The portrait of the temple; the production of the Phoenix crown after Zhao Guifei alone lasted for five months, and the scale of over 2,000 pieces of clothes in the show made "Heye Hua Ting" a "Expo" of Song Dynasty costumes.

发 traditional clothing: excavation, research, and hard work

In the production of producing humanities, there have been too many costume dramas. In his opinion, at the same time, the domestic film and television dramas have become more and more beautiful. At the same time, there are also the crew's situation of copying and copying foreign clothing in order to save costs. As the audience's attention to history and the improvement of aesthetics will care more and more about whether the clothing in film and television dramas is in line with history.

Chen Shiyu believes that to solve the embarrassing situation of copying and copying foreign countries, first of all, the academic community must do the basic research work. Compared with many disciplines, traditional Chinese clothing research is not a very valued discipline. There are relatively few scholars and researchers in this field. Basic studies in Europe and Japan are well done, and their excavation and research on the history of traditional clothing in the country have been deeply deepened.

Chen Shiyu is working

"China's particularity is that we have a long history, the clothing culture is also very complicated, and there are many archeological materials. Our researchers will invest more research forces for a long time in the future.人的形象进行更好的梳理，才能有更专业的学术性研究成果。”陈诗宇坦言，这中间依然有很多难点，他希望相关部门加大文物信息的公布力度，比如文物信息、文物图像，包括The digital information of cultural relics, "Many cultural relics may be collected in the warehouse after being unearthed. It is not known and it is difficult to be seen by clothing designers. One of the reasons, because those materials are so easy to find. "

装 historical figures and clothing design, should not be confused casually

Back to the designer itself, Chen Shiyu believes that the core of the clothing designer is to improve his business level and correct ideas. Film and television dramas are cultural ideology and have strong communication. Many people may understand historical allusions, their own culture, and historical aesthetics through film and television dramas. If you don't pay attention to the production of film and television dramas, some young people may have a big deviation in the understanding of their own culture. For example, using a foreign image to design the image of Chinese image may cause young people to think of our ancestors, the first thing that appears in the mind is the image of a foreigner. Many games are the same now. The design of some ancient Chinese heroes in the game is actually blonde. This error is more or less impact for children without any historical basic cognition. "Our historical figure clothing design should not be done at hand, nor is it possible to get rid of it casually. We must have a sense of responsibility. Many designers have no sense of responsibility and may have a bad impact."

In "National Treasure", Chen Shiyu designed for Yang Zi designed for Yang Zi

On the stage of "National Treasure", Chen Shiyu's early Tang -style costume created by Princess Wen Cheng played by Yang Zi was amazing. For this set of clothing, Chen Shiyu searched for clues from the "Map of the Ladies of the Flowers", the two female figurines of the Erling of the Nanjing Southern Tang Dynasty, the Princess of the Palace Palace of Potala Palace, and the tombs of the concubine in the early Tang Dynasty in Shaanxi to identify the reliability of these materials. The appropriate reference at the same time consumes a lot of energy.

Red Star reporter Qiu Junfeng intern Mao Yuchuan

Edit Duan Xueying

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