Shanghai's "the most flavorful vegetable farm" is about to be dismantled, and the stall owners who stick to this day have their own stories ｜ Share before bedtime

In September, in the afternoon of the early autumn, Dongjiang Yin Street was fierce, but it was not burning.

The old house along the street, which is about to be relocated, casts a half -street oblique shadow, and the cool wind is burst. In addition, half of the street has a high wall, which is already a rubble. The fierce noise of collision between fighting and masonry.

Before the huge changes, the defeat and the vitality of the starting head were on each other in Dongjiang Yin Street.

In 1909, Jiangyin people Mao Yinglian jointly lived in Shanghai's fellow, and built Jiangyin Gong. The path built in front of the office is Jiangyin Street today.

Jiangyin Street was originally a small river called Yuman. Filling in the river and building roads has changed several times. Today, Jiangyin Street has a tree -lined road in the west, and it is less than one kilometer in the east. To the east of Dragon Road to Nancang Street is called Dongjiang Yin Street.

Dongjiang Yin Street is nothing more than an ordinary small road in the old city compartment. There is no reputation; only because of a vegetable farm with the same name as the street, many people are known.

Whenever the New Year, the eel bacon in Dongjiang Yin Street is high, such as a year -old jungle, which sets out the festive atmosphere. Many Shanghai people are regarded as "the most flavorful vegetable field". There are many people who are unknown, thinking that this is a "Shanghai authentic old vegetable field".

In fact, it was just a temporary vegetable farm at first.

In 2012, the 40 -year -old Dongjiadu cuisine faced relocation. The government contributed to rent No. 129 Dongjiang Yin Street, Dongjiang Yin Street, and then built a vegetable farm and renamed it "Dongjiang Yin Street Cuisine Market". The merchants moved here.

Regarding the Dongjiadu cuisine, there is another deeper history.

Cai Kangan wrote in "Lao Shanghai Traces" that the predecessor of Dongjiadu vegetable farm is the Xiaopuo cuisine field in Nanshi District. This is one of the oldest road vegetable fields in Shanghai.

According to legend, there is a small Putuo Temple near Dongjiadu Road, which was built in the Song Dynasty. The Ming and Qing dynasties repeatedly rebuilt and expanded, and the scale continued to expand.

The small Putuo cuisine was opened in front of the Gate of Xiao Putuo. Pudong's vegetable farmers entered the city along the Xuejiabang River flowing through the old south city, and gradually formed a market in front of the small Putuo Temple. Later, the prototype of the small Putuo road cuisine.

Today's Dongjiang Yin Street vegetable field is the "spiritual sequel" of the Dongjiadu cuisine, and Dongjiadu Caudi Farm has also inherited the history of the small Putuo cuisine. A vegetable farm with a history of only 10 years, this has such a genuine traditional vegetable temperament.

In addition to the historical origins of a dish, it is also related to the appearance of the residents of the surrounding life.

The former Nanshi Old City Chamber lived in the first -generation immigrants from Jiang, Zhejiang, Anhui and other places.

Daily life is inseparable from the purchase of side dishes, the salty gourd streets, ham, and gluten ... These cute and specific place names related to diet life reflect the eyes of ordinary people.

Sangyuan Street, which is separated by Dongjiang Yin Street, is only 100 meters. The old house is intertwined. New immigrants living here are still the main force of vegetable farm consumption.

A couple who came from Taixing, Jiangsu came to Shanghai to do clothing agency business. The family's livelihood and the tuition of children in college are all in a needle -piercing lead. The radius of their lives is not 100 meters, and Dongjiang Yin Street dishes not far from home are the buying place for three meals.

Dongjiang Yin Street Causan Covering an area of ​​2,500 square meters, the largest vegetable farm in Huangpu District. Outsiders come to hunting, and only know that the row of waxy flavors of the high -hanging row of waxy flavors is spectacular; for local residents, this vegetable farm is not only in the middle, but it is mainly used -the touching low price of low dishes is the in the life of everyone's life. Little lucky.

Director Lu Weihua, the "big steward" of Dongjiang Yin Street, said that the most secret to maintaining the competitiveness of vegetables is actually low to "outrageous" rent. Since the opening of the vegetable farm, the price of the booth here has never changed. Depending on the market, the monthly booth fee ranges from 650-950 yuan.

This vegetable farm that maintains the surrounding residents, has recently reported the news that is about to move. We decided to follow Lu Jun, visit the market for a day, find some stall owners, listen to them to talk about the hardships of business, and record the last time image of the vegetable market.

Han Weiwei

(From Anhui · Vegetable Stall owner)

Han Weiwei (second from left) and mother Wang Min (first from left), brother Han Hao (second from right), and brother Sun Yue (first right)

The vegetable stall is the hardest, because the thinnest is the thinnest. If you want to make money, you have to get a few more booths, sell a few more varieties, and find profits from the scale.

I was a post -90s and started selling vegetables from the age of 21. At first I set up stalls in the road vegetable field. After the Dongjiang Yin Street vegetable farm opened, I turned to the room for ten years. Selling vegetables is really hard, but it is still more free compared to going to work. I can put the child beside me.

Broad bean, eggplant, loofah, celery ... The variety of vegetables on our booths is rich and selling. Because after the vegetables come back, I pay attention to the repair and display of the vegetables.

Our home and other vegetable stalls are not sold in the morning in the morning in the morning. Many of our dishes are directly collected by the farmers who go to Nanhui every morning. At two or three in the afternoon, we have the freshest goods in the evening market. Essence

In fact, there are a lot of ways in the price of the vegetable field. Look at the celery in our family, a box of 270 yuan, a converted 16 yuan per catty, selling 18 yuan per catty; , Early more enough. But if our things are good, the viscosity of guests will be higher. After a long time, it is good for our business.

My family was the earliest to make business for vegetables. My dad was in his 20s and sold vegetables throughout the country and sold to Beijing. Later, I bought a big car and invited the driver. In a car accident, his business was yellow. Now he retired behind the scenes, mainly to deliver the order to some high -end communities. It is not easy to do our line, but if this vegetable farm is dismantled and changing a place, we must still do business well. Ma Zongmei

(From the owner of Anhui · Aquatic Stalls)

Ma Zongmei

Every year during the Chinese New Year, TV stations and newspapers will come to interview me, because our eels are large, more, and quality. The quality is good.

To make eels, first of all, the eel should be selected well, and the meat is thick; our eels are made by her husband at home. His pickled craftsmanship is good. The guests recognize him.

I started selling seafood since the 19 -year -old girl, and I started making it at Dongjiadu. The earliest helped the boss selling seafood. My husband is my fellow in Fuyang, Anhui, and was introduced by relatives in the family. He used to help his boss in Suzhou to raise hairy crabs. Later, we had children. I felt that he took the child to walk around the lake every day and not to let him raise crabs. He went to Shanghai to sell seafood with me.

In fact, the business was good in the past, but this year is too bitter! This year, there is no one to make money by selling white crabs (barracuda crabs). When the weather is hot, the water will be too hot. It will affect the growth of crabs. The crab is thin and the output is still low. It turns out that in the season of light white crabs, it can earn more than 100,000 when it is sold well. All kinds of stall costs are available in one year. The money made in the second half of the year is all in their own bags.

This year is good, the epidemic, and the high temperature again. By the end of the year, you must not be done. You have to eat old books.

It's difficult, but I want to say that the new vegetable farm will be on Nangang Street in the future, not far from here. Anyway, the water is in the bottom of the water, and it will not change. Unless the son needs to help bring the child after getting married, I will not end.

Li Xinguo

(From the owner of Anhui · Aquatic Stalls)

Li Xinguo (left) and his wife Miao Kenxia

The two of our husbands and wives are two stalls in cuttlefish and bean sprouts. They are quite distinctive in the seafood area. After all, the two things cannot be hit.

My wife and I are natives of Wenling, Zhejiang. Relatives of my hometown introduced to get married.

(Last century) In the 1980s, I followed my family to work in Beijing to sell vegetables, and learned to hatch bean sprouts from my father. By the 1990s, I came to Shanghai's self -standing portal and sold bean sprouts while selling cuttlefish.

After my wife and I got married, the bean sprout stalls gave it to her, saying that it was said, it was roughly divided into a work, but in fact, I still got it together. I often water the bean sprouts when I have time. My wife is careful and fine. The clean tender bean sprouts are specially used for restaurants. Anyway, everyone always likes to sell well.

My business scriptures are that I recommend what the guests need to do. I recommend the right one. Some guests can't burn, and I will teach them. For example, if you look at my cuttlefish, you can take a look in the water first, cook the cold water for ten minutes, and then fry it for the ingredients. If the braised meat is roasted, wait for the meat to be faster, then put the cuttlefish in, the green onion ginger wine soy sauce sugar, the water does not need to be placed a lot, simmer the fire first, and then collect the juice in the back, it must be delicious!

Zhao Renxiang

(From Anhui · Division of poultry stall owners)

Zhao Renxiang (right) and his wife Zhao Xijuan

The business of dividing poultry is difficult to do. You go to it. You can do a maximum of two or three in the business.

Why? Because the profit is really low. It used to be only 7%-8%, now better, 10%-15%. You see our business sells food, but in fact, the profit is not as good as vegetables.

Isn't the prices rising recently, this has a great impact on our profits. For example, a pound of chicken feet increased by 2 yuan, but when I sold it, I couldn't increase 2 yuan. Customers could not accept it and could only increase 1 yuan. Our price is not very popular, unlike some business is seasonal, three yuan today, and five yuan tomorrow.

When we first came to Shanghai, we thought that the business of split poultry was easy to do. It really entered this business and found so difficult to do. But I don't want to change the career easily, there are changes, and there are also bad things. I believe that dripping into a river, time can accumulate customers, credibility, and maintain the expenses of a family life.

Although the profit of poultry is thin, you see that there are not many shops in the market, and the competition is not so fierce. It is also good to maintain the business smoothly and steadily. The business is kept, and persistence is not wanting to get rich overnight. Once, there are old guests a little bit. We rely on the quality to retain the old guests.

If the vegetable farm is moving, I am really tangled or not to continue. From 6 am to 6 pm, the two of us were consumed in the vegetable field all of them, and at the time of the New Year for a few days off. Even if you're busy, the epidemic affects the impact. This year, the booth fee has not been made.

I want to have a second occupation now, and take out Takeaway in my spare time. Two daughters, big school universities, and small high schools are time to spend money.

I have already inquired about the take -off. However, my wife worked hard for a while to do a bit, and wait for it.

Wang Cuiping

(From Jiangsu Nantong · pork stall owner)

Wang Cuiping (right) and her husband Kang Yijun (middle), her husband's cousin Kang Aihua

My husband and I are both Nantong. Dried pork is just thirty years this year.

Our business is still relatively stable, and the impact of the epidemic is okay in the future. To do business with integrity, it is not short and short, and the quality must be guaranteed. We have many old guests who follow the way. The old guests who moved away will buy it once in ten and a half months. The earliest husband and I came out of my hometown and sold pork in the Dongjiadu vegetable farm. At that time, I was still a little girl. Now I am almost a grandma. Bringing his son is to cut it out by such a knife.

At two o'clock in the morning, the governor will drive to the Xijiao wholesale market to pull pork, 8-10 tablets a day, equivalent to 4 or 5 pigs. After pulling back, we will divide ourselves. Isn't there an idiom called Ding Ding Niu, the same is the same. What parts, how to cut it, the best selling, the least waste, and some of them must be a little effort.

My husband was responsible for the purchase and got early. I came to greet the guests most of the day during the day. Some meat stalls are delivered by wholesalers. We go to the wholesale market to sell meat by ourselves. In fact, the price is not necessarily cheap, but it can be seen that it is not new.

Recently, her husband's cousin Kang Aihua also helped in the store and sometimes delivered a goods. Brother used to sell pork before, in Yangpu. Now that my wife went home to take my grandson, I simply came to do business with us. At this age, we didn't pay much attention to earning a little less. If the family is together, it is good to have a good response to each other.

Liu Aiyun

(From the owner of Shandong · North and South Cargo stalls)

Liu Aiyun (left) and her husband Gao Lianzeng

My husband and I are both from Shandong. Here we operate North -South goods and seasonings. We need to be prepared at home, we basically have them. At least there must be 700 or eight hundred? To be honest, we have not counted ourselves.

When I first opened the store, I didn't sell so many varieties. What the residents needed would come and ask. Can I enter a little? Then I will listen to it and go to buy it next time.

We first did business at Dongjiadu cuisine. At that time, it was mainly selling pickles. I think the biggest change in the past two years is that the composite seasoning has become more. The plate chicken, spicy spicy pot, hair blood are strong ... A bag of base, basically the seasoning is done. Can be a seven or eight -eight.

We are also a business that has been dealing with guests. The profits are not high, and we depend on customer trust. Therefore, we are buying a principle. We must choose a regular manufacturer supplier. As new rice is here every year, I must have tasted it myself, which is really delicious, then I will introduce to the guests.

Now business is difficult to do. In the Dongjiadu vegetable field, we had four people than this. We have four people. Moved over, the scale was narrowed, and now we are both of us. What should I do if I move the vegetable field in the future? In fact, we haven't figured it out now. Let's watch it again!

Wu Wenfei

(From Anhui · Handmade Noodle Stalls)

Wu Wenfei (left) and his wife Hu Yiling

Our husband and wife are the "newcomers" of this vegetable farm.

More than ten years ago, my wife and I worked in a restaurant. At the beginning, I brought the villagers in the fellow. I learned the practice of dumpling dumplings. Later, I thought about it.

The earliest we did the business of the puppet dumplings on Qiqihar Road and Kunming Road in Yangpu District. It was also because of demolition and finally found here. At that time, I felt that the environment of the vegetable field was quite good. There was no demolition nearby, and the passenger flow was relatively large.

The best sales in our store are the ravioli and dumplings of amaranth meat, followed by Xiaolongbao.

The big head of our business was actually a restaurant for the city center. You need to know that there are two more people in the places where you are gold and gold, and it is very impossible to put one more on the table to do our matter. It is better to take it from us.

Our customers come to pick up the goods every day. For a long time, even if we start the package in advance, the guests come, and the things are just ready. Not only is it fresh, it also saves time.

After the epidemic, our business was actually very affected. On the one hand, some customers who opened the restaurant could not do it anymore. It was closed, and our supply was less. On the other hand, it was driven by zero sales. There are fewer residents after the relocation.

Sometimes my wife will retreat with me, saying that it is so tired every day, the money can not make, and still go back to my hometown! But I know she is actually unwilling.

When the new vegetable farm is done, we will go to fight again.

It is hard to sell vegetables, and it is not easy to control the vegetable field.

Since the day of opening, Lu Weihua worked here. Originally, he was a decoration worker, and the boss of the Group fancy his work ability, hiring him to serve as a hydropower worker.

Lu Weihua

"I went to work in 1993 and opened my salary of 700 yuan. At that time, it was relatively high. I think it is good. I have a stable job without wandering everywhere."

Five years ago, the former manager died, and Lu Weihua took the burden of the management of the vegetable field.

The opening time of the vegetable field starts from 6 am to 6 pm, but it is actually running 24 hours. At 12 o'clock in the middle of the night, vegetables began to enter the venue; from 1 to 5 am, soy products arrived one after another; around 4:30, it was the peak of meat vendors' purchase.

During the epidemic, personnel need to register in and out, and increased an additional workload.

Lu Weihua arrived at 5:30 every morning. Acquiring the stalls, cleaning, maintaining the order of vegetable farms, clean channels ... His work is trivial and specific, reincarnation day after day.

There are also various accidents waiting for him to solve. For example, nearly 200 stalls in the vegetable market, hundreds of traders, have been together for a long time, and it is inevitable to stumble. Lu Jun, who is usually cheerful, has to come up with some things and majesty when he encounters these things. The chief is the "official" of sesame, the title and authority can only add some momentum to him slightly. To make everyone willing to make concessions, reconciliation, satisfaction, and conviction. It is nothing more than those who have to reconcile from it.

Walking all the way through the vegetable farm, the vendors almost greeted Lu Junna enthusiastically. Everyone said, "Lao Lu is very hard, is a good person."

Lu Weihua remembered that when he moved from Dong Jiadu to Dongjiang Yin Street, his business was incredible.

"It was difficult to find a stall in the past! Waiting for a empty shop, it may take a few years. The business of the merchant who entered the market is not bad, whether the rent price is here!"

"Now the business is not good. This year's epidemic feels particularly obvious. Many people have controlled the habit of buying food online, which is really convenient! When people come out, they are too lazy to go to the vegetable market to buy food. The main force of the main force is left to the elderly who use mobile phones and pay with cash. "

After the vegetable market was unsealed, the manager gave the vegetable vendor for one month's rent, and the rent for three months, and there was a series of discounts for the slow -to -stall fee. The booth retreated.

On the other hand, the old reform of Jiangyin Street continued to carry out. Most of the princes and Gugus who bought food here moved home, and the demand for residents' groups also greatly reduced.

The ten -year temporary vegetable farm under the double pinch finally came to the curtain.

Lu Weihua said that although it was a bit sad, the old house was demolished, and the new residential building would be built, and the new vegetable farm was already planned.

"Live people in the past, in fact, they can't live without the vegetable farm. Many special varieties have only individual stall owners. Like this folding roots, Sichuan people must have been buying it. At least the online platform is not likely to be in Shanghai for a long time. Supply. Another, fresh fish, shrimp, and crabs, even if it is delivered to your hand, it is alive, the size is fat and thin, and there is still a difference. Quality and online are still incomparable. The advantages of online are standardized. To put it bluntly, fresh things, it is not easy to do it. It is difficult to do it. "

"After the new vegetable farm is built, do you still go to the director?"

"Look at it again! I'm more than sixty years old. Let's stand here for the last class here. When the new vegetable farm is done well, I will go to see the old stall owners who moved. I hope that their business will be good in the future. "Lu Weihua said with a smile.

Liberation Daily · Shangguan News Original manuscript, reprinting without permission

Author: Qin Dongying Dong Tianxian

WeChat Editor: Ta Ni

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