C sums of light | Cantonese cuis

Author: Lin Weihui Food writer, food documentary consultant

The premise of the development of food is the prosperity of the economy. Take the East Wind of reform and opening up. Cantonese cuisine took the lead and moved from Guangdong to the country, blowing a wave of "raw seafood". In major cities, you can basically see the figure of Cantonese cuisine. It is still based on the domestic authoritative exquisite catering list. Black Pearls are used as a reference. The 2022 Black Pearl Restaurant Guide List. Among the 64 Cantonese cuisine restaurants, there are 13 selected in Guangzhou, 5 in Shenzhen, 10 in Hong Kong, and Macau Macau. Four, plus 4 of Shantou and 2 Shunde's, 26 Cantonese cuisine restaurants in non -Cantonese cuisine are on the list, indicating that Cantonese cuisine has gone out of Guangdong. It is worthy of recognition to the promotion of Cantonese cuisine to the promotion of Cantonese cuisine.

Different geographical environments and living habits have created a place of taste preferences. One side of the water and soil is the taste of one side. The favorite of a place in one place is still the local flavor. Cantonese cuisine can be welcomed in different places. It reflects the tolerance and innovation spirit in Cantonese cuisine.

The ingredients are fresh and "fierce", which is in line with cooking science

When it comes to Cantonese cuisine, everyone thinks of raw seafood. Yes, Cantonese cuisine's requirements for seafood are not only "raw", to be alive, but also "fierce", full of vitality, the kind of ingenuity and dying seafood are not seen by Lao Guang, the price is a big difference, the price is a big difference, and the price is a big difference. cut. This is the summary of Lao Guang's experience in long -term practice, which is fully in line with food science. Once seafood is caught ashore, with the changes in the environment, fear has caused them to have a stress reaction, and they basically no longer eat. But they are still alive, what to maintain their lives? That is its own nutrition. The first thing consumes is sugar, then fat, then protein, and finally amino acid. Seafood sugar provides sweetness. The flavor of seafood is mainly hidden in fat. The protein is lost. It is thinner and only the bones or shells are left. The meat becomes less, and the amino acids provide umami flavor. Without these flavors, can such seafood be delicious?

Dead seafood is even more lost. The umami flavor of seafood is provided by amino acids and oxidation trigamine. After the death of seafood, the oxidation trimethamine is decomposed into trimamine and dihamine. These are the fishy smell. After a series of decompositions, amino acids lose their nutrition sources, and after a series of decomposition, amine will eventually produce amine. The amine is stinky. No one likes it.

Of course, the preservation technology can be partially avoided, but these processes only weaken. The main ingredients in seafood meat are water, the highest moisture content can reach 85 %, the temperature is below 0 ° C when freezing, the moisture in the meat is frozen, and the volume expands 9 %. At that time, these charming flavors were lost. At the same time, due to the loss of nutrients, proteases decomposed proteins, causing mild hydrolyzed spontaneous dissolved reactions, and the meat became soft. Such seafood would not be flattering.

Not only the seafood needs to be fierce, but also the meat is also required to be fresh. In the early morning Panyu's pig miscellaneous shop, everyone was rushing around the pig miscellaneous; the chicken is best to buy now and kill, of course, it is required to be slaughtered, so the flavor is a lot bad. In the hour, the emoji reaction was turned on, and the meat became sour and hard, and it was not so delicious.

The "fierceness" of Cantonese cuisine corresponds to the active and unknown rules of Lingnan culture, and there are not so many pieces. This kind of active and unknown rules also created the Cantonese people who are good at "playing the ball". When you see the green light, hurry to go, because "there is no boat after Suzhou", seeing the red light around, because "the method is much more difficult than the difficulty", The successful practice of Guangdong's reform and opening up is due to this spirit of "fierceness", "active", and pioneering innovation.

Good at integration and tolerance

From the time of the highlights of Cantonese cuisine in the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China, at that time, Guangzhou, the merchants of all parties gathered, and various styles of restaurants, which brought the large fusion of Cantonese cuisine and other dishes, especially the Huaiyang cuisine, which became famous as Cantonese cuisine. It has a great impact on Cantonese cuisine: Guangzhou's morning tea snacks originated from the snacks of Huaiyang cuisine. Cantonese cuisine has carried forward it, transforming from heavy carbohydrates to multi -protein, and can still be seen that the two are very similar; The white sliced ​​chicken of the Huaiyang cuisine is more bold and more accurate in temperature control. To make white -cut chicken, the water must always be kept around 90 ° C. It is commonly known as shrimp eyes or crab eye water. In about 20 minutes, the purpose is to control the temperature in the chicken at 65 ° C through hot water. As soon as the temperature is exceeded, the muscle tissue of the chicken is tightened, and the juice is squeezed out. The Ming Dynasty Nanjing Gong Court is famous for roast duck, and the sweet and sour taste of Guru meat is clearly the style of Huaiyang cuisine.

Cantonese cuisine is not only good at learning from other Chinese cuisine, but also learning from Western food. Various kinds of meringue snacks in Cantonese morning tea, egg tarts, swan crisps, and durian crisps are the way to get western butter. The juice, Meiji sauce, and tomato sauce are all from Western food, and braised pigeons are the first classic works of the "Chinese Western Food" in Guangzhou's first Western restaurant Taiping Pavilion.

Today we can see that whether it is local Cantonese cuisine or Cantonese cuisine in other places, there are two different development routes. Some are vigorously promoting traditions, and some have bold breakthroughs in integration and innovation. The cooking methods and expression of French and Japanese meals, the spicy and the sour of Sichuan flavors may also appear in some innovative integration of Cantonese cuisine restaurants. For Cantonese cuisine, whether it is "authentic" can't restrain the masters' hands and feet, which is inherited from the tolerance of Lingnan culture. This tolerance and integration make Cantonese cuisine easily become the "largest common divisor" in taste. Today, people's exchanges are becoming increasingly extensive. This kind of "you have me, you have you", which is naturally popular. Cooking shows the ingredients, which is in line with the gourmet trend

The cooking style of Cantonese cuisine is mainly to show the taste of the ingredients itself. It is relatively light, less salt, less sugar, less oil, and this kind of healthy cooking style, which is in line with the trend and development direction of food. The original taste of the ingredients is that the ingredients should be fresh enough, which is exactly the basic principle of Cantonese cuisine. The pursuit of light taste is also related to the freshness of the ingredients. It needs to be covered by the fresh ingredients. The light taste is in line with the requirements of modern people's healthy diet. Modern science has proven that cooking styles such as high oil, high sugar, and high salt are related to heart disease, diabetes, hypertension and obesity. Cantonese cuisine has always been light. Welcome to diners.

Cantonese -rooted Cantonese cuisine, which is rooted in Nanyue, is part of our beautiful life in our country. We believe that with the efforts of the masters and practitioners of Cantonese cuisine, Cantonese cuisine can continue to lead the gourmet trend and create food that belongs to this era. monument.

Source | Jingbao APP

Edit: Chen Jianguo

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