How popular is the "order tea" in the "Menghua Lu" in the Song Dynasty?

Zhejiang News Customer Supervisor Wu Yahao planned Zhang Ye reporter Ye Yilin Video Zhou Yi correspondent Zhu Yang

On August 31, 2021, the Zhejiang Provincial Party Committee held a high -standard cultural work conference, which particularly emphasized that Song Yun culture is an important cultural logo with the recognition of the Chinese style and Zhejiang, and proposes to implement the "Song Yun Culture's Project".

Song Yun's ruins are everywhere. From now on, Zhejiang News Client launched the "Song Dynasty You Don't Know" column to unveil the corner of this history.

Have you been screened by the TV series "Menghua Record" recently? This costume drama with the Song Dynasty as the background has popularized a lot of Song Yun culture. Among them, the Hangzhou girl Zhao Pan'er played by Liu Yifei had a good job of ordering tea. The tea house she opened not only set off a "Hang'er style" in Hangzhou, but also a "net red shop" in Tokyo.

How did you make tea? Why is Zhao Pan'er's tea house so hot? We invited Le Sua, the director of the Academic Department of the China Tea Museum Exhibition and the Wenbo Research Library, and asked her to interpret the two or three things about Song -style tea.

In the Song Dynasty, why could Zhao Pan'er's tea house fire?

Why can Zhao Pan'er's Chafang be so hot? One big premise is that in the Song Dynasty, everyone loved tea. To do tea house business, the noodles are very wide. In the Northern Song Dynasty Wang Anshi's "Linchuan Collection" mentioned: "The husband tea is civilian, which is equivalent to rice salt, and it must not be one day." Drinking tea is an indispensable part of the life of the Song Dynasty.

Not only the people of Li, but also the princes and nobles also love tea. Song Huizong Zhao Yan is a tea -drummer. He even wrote a book "Grand View Tea Theory", which summarized his research on tea. The emperor personally promoted the promotion of tea culture, showing how popular tea was in the Song Dynasty.

However, it is very different from the way we drink tea now. The Song Dynasty people drink tea, not as simple as brewing with hot water.

According to Le Suna, the director of the Academic Department of the China Tea Museum, the Song Dynasty's tea drinking method mainly includes two types of tea and tea. The tea inherited from the Tang Dynasty. Although it is used in the Song Dynasty, it is relatively "OUT". The ancient law, the favorite of the Song Dynasty, is still the tea that they initiated.

Le Suna said that the tea ordering process can be roughly decomposed into five steps: tea, Luo tea, waiting for soup, 熁 乐, or ordering tea. To put it simply, the tea is crushed into fine powder first. The finer the better, the more the tea is used to mix the tea, and then add the tea to the tea soup while adding the water to the surface of the tea soup. Essence

An excellent tea order, the floating foam on the surface of the tea soup is like "cold porridge noodles", that is, like porridge, it is milky white and thick.

What is the "fighting tea" of the Song Dynasty?

In the 16th episode of "Menghua Record", a teahouse owner came to the door to play the hall because of his hot eyes of Zhao Pan'er's teahouse. The two staged a good show of "fighting tea".

In the Song Dynasty, Dou Tea was a "game" that reviewed the quality of tea and higher than pilot tea. You read it right. The Song Dynasty people loved tea to compare each other.

According to literature, Doucha was originally popular in Jianzhou (now Jianyang, Fujian), and then became popular all over the country.

How to order tea? It is necessary to fight the tea flavor.

In other words, in addition to good or not, it is better than the color of the tea soup and the bites of tea foam. Cai Xiang's "Tea Record · Order Tea" said: "Jian'an Dou Test, with water marks as the first, durable as a victory, so he said:" Go to the same water and two water. '"Tea foam More white and lasting, the skills are higher.

With a thick Mo, a kind of tea art is derived: "Tea Hundred Opera". In the play, Zhao Pan'er painted a flower's skill on the tea foam. On the surface of the tea soup, the beasts, insects, fish flowers and plants, etc., are a bit similar to our current "coffee pulling flowers".

In the play, Zhao Pan'er's tricks on the tea foam appeared later than the other party, indicating that the tea foam bite longer, and the water marks appeared later, and naturally won.

The "Ninety -nine Returned Yuan Tea", which sold it, did the Song Dynasty really pay for it?

Zhao Pan'er's teahouse can become a "net red shop". The key is that she is very "marketing" and finds the characteristics of the "elegant" tea culture of the Song Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, tea art tried to pursue a high -pressure artistic atmosphere. Wu Zimu's "Mengliang Lu" contains: "Hangzhou City tea shop ... Four o'clock flowers, famous people paintings, decorating the store ... Qisong and other things are on it, decorating the store, and knocking on the songs. "Yin Shi, listening to the piano, watching paintings, and flowers have become common supporting projects in the Song Dynasty tea art activities.

From this perspective, it is not difficult to understand why Zhao Pan'er launched the VIP limited -edition product "Ninety -nine Returned Yuan Tea".

"Ninety -nine Return to Yuan Tea" uses "Dragon and Phoenix Group Tea". This kind of tea was produced in Fujian. It was a tribute tea during the Song Dynasty. Because of the dragon and phoenix -shaped ornaments on the cake, it was called "Dragon and Phoenix Group Tea", which was the favorite of the emperor. Song Huizong once praised in "Grand View Tea Theory": "The dragon group phoenix cakes are famous in the world." Such a precious tribute tea is of course a big selling point.

In addition, the "Ninety -nine Returning Yuan Tea" uses nine different kinds of tea cups, including different glaze colors such as Tianqing, Meizi Qing, secret color, white porcelain, and the effect of kiln change effects. "This is all consistent with the glaze color of porcelain in the Song Shi kiln, Dingyao, Longquan kiln, and Jianyao. In color, the surface of the utensils can be seen as slender and long spots like rabbit hair. The price of rabbits is very expensive.

Tea is particular, tea cups are also particular, coupled with the pipa of "Jiangnan's first player" in the play, as well as calligraphy and painting from famous masters.

- END -