Luo Jing Fourteen Mountains
Author:figure Time:2022.09.13
Ending Fourteen 8000 -meter Snow Mountain is the holy grail of countless outdoor adventurers. As a female climber, Luo Jing passed the avalanche, slippery, and falling rocks. Many friends were killed. At the end of 2017, there was only the last mountain in front of her. Can she complete it?
Text | Xie Mengyao
Edit | Chu Ming
Figure | Interviewee provided
A female climber
Imagine a female climber, imagine a female climber climbing at 8,000 meters above sea level. What does she look like?
She is unmarried and has no children. She has rough skin because she participates in too many outdoor sports. She realized the freedom of wealth, so she was able to devote to this expensive activity. She has dirty braids, tattoos of his arms, and a punk drumper boyfriend. She is the descendant of the famous explorer. She is a former boxer. She is a truck driver. She had been a mercenary, killed 7 enemies, and had a fight with the lion.
Give up those stereotypes. Luo Jing does not meet any of the above descriptions.
Identify a off -road runner from the crowd. You may watch the sun line, but you can't find any external traces on the climbers who are also outdoor. They wrapped them too tightly on the mountain. When wearing a casual dress, Luo Jing is a long -haired woman with a height of one meter and six meters tall. Born in Hengyang, Hunan in 1975, she would use "one side to raise one person" to explain her good skin. She remains proportioned, but she can't see muscle lines. She is afraid of cold. When she is not climbing, she will exercise, run or climb stairs, but not the kind of devil training you want. She is the mother of a 17 -year -old boy. She was a full -time IT practitioner.
From May to September each year is the climbing season. During this time, she was another person. In the mountains, many elementary men are not as good as her physical strength and speed. She has a cricket called "Rabbit". Because she had been a mountaineering captain several times, the mountain friends also called her "Luo". She set a record for at least six 8000 -meter mountain peaks. Physical energy is the foundation, and more importantly is psychological and experience.
She talked about her epiphany time to "Character". It was the last section of Zhang Jiafeng, Qiancheng. The partner Shilba did not have more than 8000 meters experience, and she was dismissed. Climbing alone, shaking in fear of hands and feet. She adjusts her thoughts and keeps focus. Then she found that the shake disappeared. Focus on controlling fear.
For most mountain friends, from entry to 8000 meters, it takes 5-8 years, and confidence construction is a long process. In fact, after 5,000 meters of steps, she only climbed a 6000 meter and a 7000 meter, and moved to 8000 meters in the third year. "My thinking is easy to cross, and I am not a kind of personality from the inside." She said.
There are 14 peaks on the earth 8000 meters, all of which are concentrated in the Himalayas and Karakon Mountains. Fourteen to the top is a feat. Very few people ran into the "Fourteen" clubs without controversy, far less than astronauts entering the outer space -the number exceeded 500.
More people fell outside the club. On the mountain, things are always outside the plan. A tiny error is directed to the terrible consequences. Extreme cold and hypoxia make people's consciousness and confusion, and the experienced Sherba guide will also make mistakes. Luo Jing's Shilba had forgotten to bring food bags and mistakenly brought empty oxygen tanks.
The death on the mountains is usually fast and there is no pain. Slide is a common doom. After exhausting, the warm -up will make you a sculpture. The pulmonary edema and cerebral edema caused by the reaction of the mountain will also kill you. The lethality of the avalanche was large -scale. In 2014 and 2015, Mount Everest caused 16 and 19 people to be killed. In addition, there will be a variety of deaths. One year in Makaru Peak, two Charba suffocated the tent too strict. This is a low -level mistake. "We all know, stay empty," Luo Jing said.
It is precisely death that gives the mountain with black magic charm. "Without a threat of death, then climbing is nothing. It will only be kindergarten. It will not be adventure or art." The Italian Lein Hord Mesner said. He is considered the greatest climbist in history, and is the first person to climb to Everest. In a sense, he created the "Fourteenth" club. In 1986, he became the first climber of the world's fourteen 8,000 -meter mountain peaks. Since then, the "fourteen" has become the holy grail of outdoor adventurers.
However, all these success cannot be proud of Masner. He wrote in the autobiography, "There is only one thing worthy of my pride, I survive." To some extent, death is like a lottery. You may always be possible. Whether you are drawn, whether your fame and technology, whether you are a man or a woman.
Luo Jing had encountered two avalanches, slipped several times, stepped on the suspended snow eaves, almost fell into the ice crack, and was hit by the stones stepped down by others. Lost a certain part of the body like that. Because of frostbite necrosis, the organs that are commonly needed to remove include fingers or toes, and then seriously the entire hands and feet, or it may be nose or ears.
The mountain does not distinguish between women, but women climbing is indeed more inconvenient than men. Change the sanitary napkin is a bit troublesome, and the stuff is frozen like ice cubes. "You want to clean it with wet paper towels, and immediately freeze it when you take it out. You have to cover it in your arms." In the early years, in order to be better, Luo Jing would postpone the menstruation with a medicine called "Mom Fulong". Later, he didn't care. Those end -of -end things could not affect her. There is also a toilet problem. At night, men and women often squeezed in a tent. Luo Jing had a lesson. She wore a small solution in the night wearing autumn pants and a cold. Later, she allowed herself to solve it in the tent. This is mainly for safety. Many times the tent is on the steep hillside, and it is easy to occur when it is easy to find the toilet in the night. She prepared a night pot in the big camp and went up the mountain. On the mountain, privacy and decentness can be put down. Some female climbers did not bring the pot in the night in order to light up. When the toilet, Shilba helped the plastic bag in the back. "I have my bottom line, I can't do it." Luo Jing said.
During the climbing, it must be resolved in the snow. Before taking off his pants, he greeted the people downhill, "People have memorized (body)."
These things are not a big deal to Luo Jing. For female climbers like her, the world under the mountain is even more difficult. "While taking care of your family and taking care of your children, it is actually difficult to balance your dreams and self -needs," she said.
At the end of 2017, there was only the last one in front of her. She has the opportunity to become the 40th person in the "Fourteen" clubs. The first person in China is close to a record, climbing the fastest time for fourteen seats. At that time, the record was 7 years, 10 months and 6 days, and was created by South Korean climber Kim Changhao.
Luo Jing in climbing
Mild resistance
In the outdoor forum 8264 and mountain climbing circle, Luo Jing is a celebrity, but outside of this field, this is a strange name for the public. I noticed that Luo Jing was accident after the Yellow River Stone Forest Cross -country race in May 2021. Luo Jing was a survivor in the tragedy of the death of 21 people (another person died after half a year after coma), which caused the warmth and the organizer to lose his job. Luo Jing was a survivor. She ran 28 kilometers and 1 kilometers forward, which was the death area. Most of the victims were found on the bare ridge.
In October 2021, "Character" met her. The news claimed that she was a climbingist, but she denied humblely that she thought she had not yet reached the more pure state of climbing. She didn't say it clearly, but she should refer to Alpine climbing, which is characterized by small teams of opening up new routes, light -fitting, fast, single or two or three people. And she belongs to the Himalayan style, which is mainly reflected in commercial climbing, in order to gradually promote the establishment of a team of camps and has logistics support.
We want to write her climbing story, with a huge enthusiasm, but soon was poured cold water. The content she told lacks scenes and details, and it seems that there is no infectious power. Obviously an exciting story, it becomes very bland here, as if climbing is not a hero epic. It does not assume the function of great narrative, just private hobbies, or some kind of lighter things. Explanate.
In the 4 days of getting along, she seemed to be stubborn. She will tell me a story, and then ask me not to write it because she wants to avoid any conflict with others. Each interview should not exceed 1 hour, but in fact, only 40 minutes later, her eyes fell down, her voice became smaller and smaller, and the number of answers became less and less. Later, it was like a hard -working support to torture each other.
As soon as some topics were opened, she announced the closure. "I don't want to talk about this, it's too tired. You can see all the reports." She said, "It's really annoying to talk too much, so don't want to talk about these things."
Occasionally, she can become a very open conversator. During a dinner, the topic attracted a toilet on the mountain, and she told a lot of details. "I want to get a large number every morning, which is a good habit." She said, "Because after you finish, go to the mountains, you are very safe and comfortable all day." But it is like a mountain Like the weather, you can't predict when she is in a negative state.
Many questions, her answer is, where do I know, never thought about it, I don't remember. I talked to her about Jon Clarkol's masterpiece "Entering the Sub -air Zone" in Mount Everest in 1996. She read it very early and also read another "Wild Survival" of Clarks. I asked her, what did it feel after reading it?
Of course we need those stories, there are tragic death, selfish decision and thrilling competition. Those stories can show the smallness of human beings and the greatness of human beings. In that dual -opposed world, up and down, entering and retreating, saving or not saving, there is no intermediate position. You have to read the signal given to you carefully and make the right one in the two options. People like me who have never boarded the mountains are those stories that provide a lot of imagination of mountains.
"No touch, just watch the story." Luo Jing said. This is the end. She can keep silent until the opponent defeated in this gas field wrestling and changed a topic. But then, she complained softly that the jumping was too strong and had nothing to do with each other.
She is a tricky visit, but she is also a gentle person. When expressing resistance, she used a vague question. After the mountain difficulty, why did I have the guilt of the survivor? I survived, why do I have nightmares? This gentle resistance can find traces in her cooperation with the sponsors. "She is a wayward person." Said the person in charge of a brand, "Many business rules are normal and culprit to us, she feels so bad. People close to her said that she lacks business awareness and resists self -sales. "There are some business performances, such as asking her to read the manuscript, she can't do it well," said Luo Jing's friend Zhang Da School. Everyone is somewhat to be shaped by others' opinions and feedback. Luo Jing seems to have been exempted from some kind of exemption.
Under the appearance, her inside was rebellious. When she was a child, her mother slaps her, "Stars in my eyes, but I just don't cry." After graduating from college, her boyfriend asked her to go to the northeast and find her iron rice bowl, but she felt at a glance at a glance at a glance at a glance.
Compared to A -style mountaineering, commercial climbing is relatively safe. A public entrepreneur once told me that in his opinion, some entrepreneurs were obsessed with Mount Everest, but to do public relations and "find a few people to carry themselves up." This represents a typical fallacy. None of the high -altitude mountain peaks are easy, only difficulty, and more difficult. Many road sections have no road ropes, and they need two people.
For all kinds of prejudices, Luo Jing's point of view is: what happened to her.
"What he thinks (commercial) climbing, this is their business." She said, "I don't want to explain anything to anyone. No matter how high I see me, or I think my grades are not good, come to me It doesn't affect, I know who I am. Anyway, I don't care. "
I asked her what it felt like to rush. "Don't feel it, hurry up." Will you imagine yourself standing on the top of the world? "No imagination is everyone's imagination." She said, "People who actually board the mountain generally don't ask such questions. Because you know that the climbing process is the most important."
Other climbers' expressions in the interview are similar to Luo Jing. Zhang Hong was the first blind person in Asia to appear on Everest. He said that at that moment, he was not excited, excited, and even felt much. Xia Boyu, who was amputated, finally climbed to the top of Mount Everest at the fifth time he was 69 years old, but it felt much more bland than his previous imagination. Instead, he left more impression when the thrle was withdrawn.
I was frustrated with the interview with Zhang University, and the business elite who climbed Mount Everest with Luo Jing laughed: "Most people climbing are only related to the same kind of chat."
It is simple to distinguish non -similar types: if you need to respond for a few seconds before you understand the mulberry -that is the fixed ceremony before the mountain climbing, please recite the scriptures to pray for God Mountain to bless; if you can't figure out those Nepal and Tibetan names: Mulberry, Mingma, Dawa -In the climbing circle, these names are like Jordan or Liu Xiang, and they do not need their identity prefix. You are outsiders.
But who can you depend on the truth of the high altitude world? You can only seek answers from one place: people who come back from the mountain.
Luo Jing and his teammates
Retrograde
Before she encountered a real avalanche, the avalanche in her life happened in 2006. The son was only 1 year old, and the husband disappeared suddenly, leaving a common debt under the name of the husband and wife. The debtors came to the door, and she ran around. She often cried, and had the idea of self -knotting several times. After a few years of lawsuit, the house in Beijing's Third Ring Road was forced to sell it to repay the debt. She moved the five rings.
"I always feel that there is a light in my life. It will not make me desperate. Although sometimes there will be that moment, there is still a voice that says that everything will be fine tomorrow. "she says. That dark day changed her view of money. She was an outdoor enthusiast, and she had been a forum moderator for a time. At the moment of the lawsuit, she wanted to do what she really wanted to do quickly. Later, climbing became that light.
Many mountain friends have a similar starting point. There are no jobs at nine to five, no haze, subway and skyscraper, no domestic violence, emotional deception and stock market. Going to the mountains and setbacks is a common choice to go to the mountain. Luo Jing's friend Cheng Xin was the same. In 2012, 12 years after his last climbing, he re -climbed again. As a professional manager, he stuck in the bottleneck of career development. The problem of the mountains may still be solved by the mountain, but the world on the mountain provides a minimalist and open experience. That feeling is an addictive drug and a life -saving medicine.
Many people start 8000 meters from Zhuo Aoyoufeng -to obtain a climbing permit in the northern slope of the Everest in China, there must be a climbing experience of more than 8000 meters at a time, and Zhuo Aoyou is recognized as commercial maturity, which is relatively simple, and it is relatively simple. The one -Everest is often their second mountain. Who doesn't want to board Mount Everest? But Everest is too expensive, and Luo Jing has limited funds. Then give priority to the mountains that few people go and have a fame. Unlike the vast majority, she follows an opposite way. This road is destined to be lonely, and she cannot find a common advanced partner.
She moved to the first 8000 meters in 2011, Manasu Peak. The cost of this mountain spent about 100,000 yuan, and she invested the money that was originally used for buying a car. In order to save $ 1,000 helicopter costs, she and Shilba arrived at the mountaineering base for 8 days. After two adaptive training to camp 1 and camp 2 respectively, the next step is to wait for the opportunity to stand up at the base camp. In her words, she was just a puppet at that time, and everything was given by others. Shulba asked her to use oxygen early, and she used it. With the success, she still had a sense of failure inside.
The first 8000 meters were completed, and she had no continued. But her climbing post caused a sensation in the 8264 Forum. A friend sponsored her 50,000 and gave her a second chance. She participated in a Makaru peak climbing by Nepal adventure. In this kind of foreign organization, she always mixed different types of mountain climbers. Her teammates are several Iranians with anaerobic climbing.
In the process of punching, the Iranians gave up, and Luo Jing and her Shilba continued to rise. Generally, the climbing time is at 12 noon. Those who are more adventurous may postpone the closing time to 2 pm. Once this node is reached, it must be given up to keep it. The section of the road. Because she has no experience, or to win, she is getting farther and farther with this dead end.
It was 7 o'clock when it reached, and the terrible night was coming. What made it worse was that on the way down, Luo Jing also had hallucinations, a bird screaming in his ears, and heard the Iranian teammate calling her. Where is there someone else on the empty mountain? In this state, she judged continuous mistakes. Once because I did not have a fast hanging, she declined to the abyss without any protection. The other time was to save shortcuts, and as a result, stepped into the ice crack.
She was lucky to come back alive. Five or six meters took place, and she found that her legs were wrapped on the road rope. The body dropped half of the ice crack, and the backpack was stuck and rescued her. She was the first Chinese woman to board Makaru Peak. What surprised her was that the incident was on the news headline. Destiny is so mysterious. As a result, she must be attributed to her skills, courage and some kind of spiritual power, and the good luck of those two turns in danger, but the starting point is a wrong decision -she will probably not choose to ignore the closing time again. Essence She was more than ten hours later, and Wang Jing, another Chinese female climber, also reached the summit. The first person has the value of public communication.
"This mountain is finished, that is the first is the first." She said, "It's not the first to go, there is no one you think, as if you don't say the first or the competition."
This is the way. She was invited to some paid speeches to relieve some of her economic difficulties. If the mountains continue to board, if the money is not enough, she will account for the cooperative Nepalese expedition "Seven Summit Treks", and then take the team to climb to offset some accounts. In 2013, the II peak and I peak of the Gaushablum, and the 2014 Joe Guri Peak (K2), were completed by the accounts.
When she boarded the three mountains, she was streamlined and even borrowed the top bag. Until the first Chinese woman, she was called K2, known as the "Murder Peak", and she had the first outdoor brand sponsorship. At that time, the vision became clear, and the goal was fourteen. But this is not to be, because she doesn't know where her financial resources can support her. There was a temporary urgent need to pay the mountaineering registration fee. She couldn't get it out for a while. With her unknown, a group of friends made money.
Luo Jing climbed Johogli Peak
The truth of the story is that the future "fourteen" candidates have nothing to do with the rich. Those who have achieved freedom of wealth may not be able to achieve Luo Jing's realization.
She adheres to a principle and does not take the initiative to sponsor. "Natural fermentation, someone is looking for me, and I will respond," she said. She went to the Yangtze River Business School for free as a special enrollment -she had a 8 -month suspension for her climbing -in the mine full of human resources, she did not make any excavation attempts.
"I hope my climbing is very free and there is no restraint." She said, and at the same time, it was attributed to business. She did not intend to become an Internet celebrity. In her opinion, "fire" and "realizing social value" have a subtle limit.
Dengzhufeng is the most expensive in all mountains and requires 400,000 yuan. This is very stressful for Luo Jing, but because he was invited to join a team composed of five different countries climbers -this is a gimmick made by the organization, and the cost was exempted. With this team, she boarded Luo Zifeng again. Another major sponsorship comes from friends Cheng Xin. After leaving Luo Jing in 2016, he took the initiative to invite her to become a brand spokesperson for his startup company, signed a contract of millions of dollars in three years.
But without these opportunities, would she stop there? She has carefully considered that she has no money, so she sells the houses of the Beijing Five Ring Road.
She shrinks food in her life. If you are not willing to spend money in the gym, you can exercise at home. Rarely do beauty, and do not buy brand -name clothing. She has never had a car in Beijing. "A lot of friends are all drivers." Zhang University said. The same is true of her style to this day. We went out for dinner. Every time she stared at the menu for a long time, the meat was ordered to delete it again.
life and death
On the mountain, it is easy for people to conclude affection. In Luo Jing's first climbing career, two names were important to her.
In 2010, when she climbed Sichuan Queer Mountain, she met Yang Chunfeng. Her impression of him was "black, thin, and how powerful it was." After searching on the Internet, I learned that Yang was the great god in the circle and was the most popular person in the Chinese folk at that time. He came to this Queer Mountain with only 6,000 meters above sea level and the difficulty of technical difficulty. Not long ago, in Darajir Peak, the three teammates died on the mountain. As a leader, he was in a vortex of controversy because of the chaos of the organization. They leave contact information. She and Shanyou went to Chengdu to find him, living in his studio, and in the middle of the night he cooks for everyone. He is very easy -going, answering the question is very patient, and occasionally blows the cow, and he will complain about some slander in the outside world.
Luo Jing looked at Yang Chunfeng as a mentor and admired him from his heart. Many ideas were affected by him. His economic conditions were not good, and he lived with the ascetic monk's life, but put all his passion on the mountain. Poverty, difficulty, guilt, no resistance can stop him. He often says a word, you may be more technical than me, but do you have me brave? This sentence is not only defending his business climbing, but also the way he empower himself.
At that time, she just resigned, and she confirmed that she had a desire for higher altitude. Before looking for the next job, she could use a period of mountaineering. She knows that she does not have to be an A -style climber, and she can go forward bravely, because Yang Chunfeng is an example. The first 8000 meters, she followed Yang Chunfeng's business team.
In the second 8000 meters, she met another celebrity in the folk mountaineering industry. His name was Rao Jianfeng, and he also had a mountain in 2010 in the Mountains in Rajili. With Yang Chunfeng at the pole of the quadrant, he is a financial entrepreneur. After going down the mountain, Luo Jing and Rao Jianfeng approached. She was also enthusiastic about Zhang Luo's sharing meeting and invited the latter to Beijing from Shenzhen.
The two elder brothers are competitors and want to be the first Chinese to complete the "fourteen". The two also cooperated. In 2012, Rao Jianfeng took 55 days to reach 3 8,000 meters in a row, of which K2 was completed with Yang Chunfeng. Luo Jing was also said by Rao Jianfeng and planned to go together, but in the end, he abandoned because of lack of funds and confidence. In 2013, when I heard that Yang Chunfeng and Rao Jianfeng were going to Pakistan to climb the Peak of Nanta Palbart, she signed up. But time was too late, she failed to do it.
She heard the bad news on the subway in Beijing. On June 23, the climbers of Nanda Palbarbat Peak encountered a terrorist attack. Among the 11 people who were killed, there were Yang Chunfeng and Rao Jianfeng. All the specific feelings disappeared, and she didn't remember how long she cried in the crowd on the platform.
Luo Jing and Yang Chunfeng
The American climber Kangrad Anke once showed a list of his handwriting to reporters. From his mentor, to his best friend, there were more than thirty acquaintances on it, almost all died of climbing. Such a list exists in the hearts of every senior climber.
In recent years, Luo Jing has witnessed a lot of misfortunes. In early 2012, she went to Yangshuo climbing, and a group of friends had an A -style climber named Yan Dongdong. A few months later, he died in the ice cracks of Tianshan. In 2013, in Zhangjia, Qiancheng, five teammates came to the pendant when they were withdrawn. In a photo she took before, several people who entered the mirror died except for her, including the old Korean youth Namsoo who had a good and enthusiastic Korean youthful and enthusiastic. The surviving Koreans Kim Hongbin died in Broat Peak in 2021. In 2015, he suffered an avalanche in Broat Peak, and one in the team was killed. The Bulgarian Bo Yang Peterrov, who has known each other for many years, disappeared in Hathabbon in 2018.
This is just an incomplete statistics from public information. Luo Jing was unwilling to talk about names and numbers to me, "just remember them."
She commemorates them in her way. One month after the death of Yang Chunfeng and Rao Jianfeng, she buried her friend's photos in the snow at the peak of the Gagishblum II Peak in Pakistan. She cried there for a while. She later went to the mountain and always took the Korean friend Namsoo's sleeping bag, and her sleeping bag stayed with him in Zhang Jia, Qiancheng.
"After that, it was bland, they chose the way," she said. She is not the kind of emotional person who chews the pain repeatedly. "I study science, very rational."
Real estate is reflected in many aspects of her view. The book "Entering the Sub -Air Zone" recorded the help of the two Japanese people who met the dying person in order to rush to the top. What if she puts her in the same scene? Luo Jing didn't want to say that she would make the opposite choice, "That's all bragging, you can only say what you have done." "In the face of life safety, he made any choices right." He also sent a post to defend him. She rejected moral abduction.
Survivor guilt is a common experience of traumatic incidents. He feels fault and guilty about the fact that others die and live. Luo Jing never fell into this feeling, and she couldn't even understand it at all. "You should be objectively calm to analyze the whole thing. Why is he killed? Only by analyzing clearly, this is a better respect for the deceased."
When she talked about the death of her father's physical failure, she soon accepted the facts. "Maybe we may be more lonely, and just that, death is what we each will face. Why heavy? I feel that I can't see him in the future, he exists in another way." She exists. "She exists." She exists. "She exists." It's not a religious expression. She has no religious belief and never pray, "praying is better to do your own score." She is unwilling to be self -sorrow. "Why do you make this thing very tragic? We must make us write a spermship? I think it is a very boring propaganda."
I talked with Luo Jing to a martyr's mentality in the climbing circle, "dead on the mountain is also a beautiful destination." She laughed and couldn't stop it. Later, I saw a post she published and realized that she was definitely not a supporter of the above perspective. She recalled the feeling of meeting the remains of a mountain in a close distance. "I believe that in the last moment, he still wanted to return to his loved ones, just as I never thought of staying on the mountain."
Danger is always there. K2's climbing mortality (the ratio of the number of victims in the mountains and the number of successful climbing and the number of returns) is 27%, and Annapurner Peak is 32%.
Of course, she knew the statistics, but when I talked about it, the rationality of science students seemed to have disappeared. Is there a crash without a plane, and there is no longer driving if there is a car accident? But she seems to completely ignore the difference in probability.
She had imagined that she was in danger, but she never thought of the possibility of Ying Nian died early, and never thought that she would become the molecule in climbing mortality -at least she said that. "I closed my eyes when I died, I didn't know anything, what else do you need to think."
Things outside the top
At the time of entering 2015, everything made smoothly, and Luo Jing had reached 8000 meters. She was emotionally rose, and she had a "small goal". She wanted to finish the remaining seven seats this year, and she filled the time. She was hidden in her heart.
But at the end of this year, the number of numbers was zero. The great wave of Nepal disrupted her some plans, and the four mountains she tried was all successful.
This year, she fell into the most danger since climbing. The two avalanches in their careers have occurred one after another. Once, only half a meter away, her entire tent would roll down the cliff. More fatal another, the snow group wrapped her out of 50 meters, she inserted into the snow in an inverted V -shaped posture, and at the moment when she was suffocating, it was Charba Nurbu pulled her out.
The important thing is that she is still alive. She is not a person who gives up easily, but when she is a fledgling, she already knows when she gives up. In Annapurner, others were withdrawn before 6:30 in the morning. It is easy to follow the public, but she thinks that time is enough. She climbed another 6 hours and arrived at a place below 100 meters. Her Nurbu's oxygen is used up, and she goes up to a cliff of ice -free ice rocks. The top of the mountain seems to be close at hand, but she takes at least two hours to evaluate the group to resist the temptation and turn around.
There was no regret on his mouth, but at the party at the end of the year, Luo Jing suddenly cried.
In the year of failure, she became more humble. "The more you know, the more fear, the more cautious," she said. Like many real climbers, she does not need to "conquer" to describe the relationship between people and mountains. "Shanfeng can accept you. When you have to pick people's weather, you have to choose when you have a good temper, how can this be conquer?" People conquered only yesterday themselves.
There are also other changes. In the early years, she was very active in the 8264 Forum, and some of these posts talked about the mountains and hearing in detail. From this year, she no longer updates. "Fresh energy has passed. The concept of time has changed, and I no longer spend time on the forum."
The initial passion, curiosity, and a lot of emotions faded, and even the memory became increasingly confused. What does the climbing mean?
At the beginning, she was not the kind of climber who relied on Charles and was unwilling to carry the equipment. Since 2016, she has decided to go further, not only to be an ordinary commercial customer, but to form a team by herself. She is responsible for reviewing and selecting Charba and Backfu, to formulate training plans for players, prepare road ropes, tents, gas and other equipment, and supervise logistics and transportation. For her personally, this autonomous model is actually "spending more money", but she thinks that only so can it grow.
With the increase of experience, she set more advanced requirements for herself. Continuous mountaineering has a great challenge to physical strength. In 2013, she tried Gashabulm's two peaks. In 2016, she even boarded Annapurner Peak and Mount Everest.
At the third 8000 meters, she was withdrawn under anaerobic. But that's because oxygen is used up, not her wishes. But in many climbing after 2015, she took the initiative to try anaerobic, so she needs to start in advance than others. She pointed out to the "Character" that she was later wearing an oxygen mask for later use, which is very different from the strict anaerobic. "People are ready to break the boat, without oxygen when they set off."
The anaerobic climbing is an ideal goal. In 2017, she was almost realized in Nanta Barbart. 13 hours after departure, the last road was full of uncertainty, and she was tangled. "I don't need oxygen, but there is no need to drag everyone to face some risks because she has such a wish." Crying all the way, "I feel that I can't achieve my best (anaerobic), a complicated emotion." The plan has changed quietly. If everything is to enter the "Fourteen" clubs, then there is no need to add difficulty to itself. She feels that climbing is more and more like a self -challenge, not a proof of the outside world.
In 2011, she met the Spanish old man Oscar Cadiach in Manasru Peng. After that, they met in the mountains, and her understanding of him every year will deepen. In Zhang Jiafeng in Qiancheng in 2013, he told her the experience of failed there in the first three times, and he still chose anaerobic for the fourth time. After Yang Chunfeng and others attacked in Pakistan, Luo Jing hesitated about whether she was planning to go to Pakistan according to the original plan. Oscar sent an email to tell her not to be controlled by the fear of the outside world.
In July 2017, Luo Jing was at the top of Bolomt Peak -this was her thirteenth 8000, and Oscar with her also completed all 8000 meters of him. At this moment he became the 39th person of the "Fourteen" club, it has passed the first 8000 meters from him, and 33 years have passed. It took so long because he was trying a new route many times. Broat alone came for the sixth time. This made Luo Jing feel a lot, "He really likes to climb the mountain, not pursuing the ranking."
In front of the fourteen mountains, there were several Chinese chaser behind Luo Jing, who constituted a common action team and had a delicate relationship with her. But in her, he became the first awareness of competition and disappeared.
Luo Jing and Oscar
Mother and child
Back at the starting point of the mountain, the debt lawsuit was just over. She was at the trough. She thought that she should first adjust her to a good state in order to better face her family. "At that time, if I didn't go anywhere, it was difficult for people to lock herself in such a small environment." On the day when she was absent, she asked her son Nonno to take care of her grandmother.
Self -rescue becomes self -realization. For 5 consecutive years, she did not accompany her son's birthday. He was in July, and she was in the mountains. In 2017, Nuo Nuo was 12 years old, and after half a year in junior high school, she sent him to the boarding international school in Chiang Mai, Thailand. At the beginning of the day, the 12 -year -old son cried while talking to her in the dormitory, and it was adapted after a while.
In the mountains, she "made a phone call with her son, and sometimes did not call for a long time." Some people will promise a fixed phone every day at home, sometimes delay, and there is no anxiety over there. "You are a disturbing mood to increase the family," she said.
As her story was spread, there was noise on the Internet. She thought she was so dangerous as her mother's investment, and she was too selfish. She later blocked herself and stopped watching those comments. "The frog at the bottom of the well has no attention at all."
关于登山与家庭的平衡,如果纳入女权主义的理论框架进行讨论——社会对于男女在家庭付出的不同预期与评价、僵化的性别秩序、母职实践的重新定义——或许更有说服力,但She acknowledged that she was unaware of feminism. Her argument can come to a sentence, "As an independent person, I do anything to do anything. Everyone has the freedom to pursue their dreams. Whether I have a child or not, I have a parent."
As a mother, she acknowledged that she didn't feel any debate of her child, but she couldn't tell what it was. Is it not enough to accompany? She believes that mental strength is to be able to accompany her life. Besides, when she is not on the mountain, she is with her son almost all of them. Is it spent too much money? She said that when she sold the house, she reserved the part of the child's future education and life. Is it an unexpected possibility? "In my perception, it is not much different from ordinary sports," this is logically uniformly uniformly uniformly uniformly unified with her death. "I will try my best to reduce the emergence of risks."
Every line was cut off by her. She is not an understanding.
"I can understand that state. The way of health is that you can't live in guilt." Friend Zhang Campus said, "At least she can pass this level in her heart."
She has a set of educational philosophy. When her son was five or six years old, she took him to Thailand to play, squeezed in a bunch of people, took a bus, and sleeping the youth hostel. High -end enjoyment is not the travel experience she wants to give him. She never saw the death too seriously. He took his son to Europe and took him to the cemetery. "You see these people lie here, (let him) accept it normally."
She never cares about the sense of ritual. Why do I have to eat a big meal on my birthday? Why must I go home for the New Year? She has never had the concept of belonging to the place of belonging. She grew up to 13 years old in Hunan. She moved to Shanxi and went to college to Beijing. She had never had a Beijing hukou.
The son went to the school to forget the test papers, and the teacher urged him to call the parents to send it. Luo Jing refused, and she wanted to tell him in this way that her own affairs were responsible. The teacher said that his mother was too irresponsible. This has nothing to do with climbing. But she was stabbed by a few words.
"She is not like ordinary mothers, and she is relatively thick." Zhang University said. The model of this pair of mothers and children is like Luo Jing and her parents in some ways. "My family relationship is more independent, they don't care about me." Regardless of me. " The topic is the elephant in the room, avoiding it.
Luo Jing didn't like the teachers of domestic schools, "one by one, like Cixi." "I can only put pressure on him. I also took the initiative to help him often ask for leave and take him out to play." Luo Jing said. It has a benefit of letting her son study in Thailand. She no longer has to entangle his scores, where the school atmosphere is easy and free, and consumption is low. She knew it very well that as long as he did what he liked and could maintain his livelihood, you didn't have to worry. The son was ambitious and wanted to take the University of California Berkeley. "That's not easy to take the test, you take your own mind." Luo Jing said to him.
Her relationship with her son Nono is like a friend. Cheng Xin remembers that for the first time to meet Nuo Nuo, children are not afraid of birth at all. Everyone said that Luo Jing can definitely suffer. "Remove that bitter word. She is particularly able to eat." Nuo said.
She rarely talks with her son about the topic of climbing. But not to talk about it may be isolated from the relevant information. Before starting K2, he cried and hugged her, begging not to go, because he knew the mortality of K2 from the book. Luo Jing appeared for a long time before he agreed.
She has never been forcibly instilled. The son slowly reached her understanding. Once he saw Luo Jing's mountaineering manuscript and asked, there were only five or six women around the world. Are you going up? He raised his palm. Later, she will bring her son.
The son told her that our guitar teacher told me that don't rush to college after graduating from high school. Usually parents may be frightened when they hear. Luo Jing said that I encouraged you to make money and support himself and go all over the world.
Luo Jing in life
Last climb
The last mountain is Hicharbang Ma Peak, 8027 meters above sea level, and is the lowest of the fourteen 8000 meters. It is not like the peak of a steamed bun -type, its highest point (that is, the main peak) on a steep, long ridge, it is not easy to identify, and there are repeated controversy on the summit. It is not the same as international recognition to get the official climbing certificate where the mountain peak is located. Mountaineering culture has its own set of international traffic standards. Just like the real Lian Deng refers to the withdrawal from the top of the mountain to the base camp, and then to the other mountain, just withdrawing to camp 4 cannot be counted. The first thirteen mountains of Luo Jing were all controversial.
Hexhabangma is the only 8,000 mountain peak in China. According to regulations, the Chinese can only guide the organization under the organization of the Shengshan Exposure Company. In April 2018, the opportunity finally came. In order to ensure the success rate, she purchased meteorological prediction services from METEOTEST, Swiss company, and also brought two additional Charba Nurbu and Sanu in cooperation with her. Among them, SANU reached Xifeng in 2006 and 2011.
At 3 am on May 14th, she set off from camp 3, and 4 hours later, she reached a position of 7,950 meters above sea level. But at this moment, the organizer made a decision to order Luo Jing to withdraw with a security reasons.
"At that time, the weather was not good, and the visibility was poor." Zhang Yue, the liaison of Luo Jing's climbing, recalled, "But after all, only 7 o'clock in the morning, it is far from the time of closing, and the main peak can be seen." The climbers with a peak of less than 100 meters made a decision. Luo Jing didn't understand, and the two Charba partners couldn't understand. In the process, there was information communication that was inconsistent -in Luo Jing's view was deception. The organization told her that she would wait for a few days before rushing to the top, but followed closely, but it was announced that the Hagangma climbing season was over. On that mountain, she is not an autonomous climber.
A kind of burnout occupies her body. After returning, she said that the mountain would not be ascended. The organization called her and invited her to come again in the autumn window. She refused. Don't decide first, the other party said. The second mountaineering registration is dead, and she has not moved.
After all, the temptation of the mountain is there. In the end, she was still added in the list, and set off again in September 2018. This situation has changed a lot. The climbing route is different from the last time, and the team has expanded to 17 people. Everything looks smooth. On September 29, according to the organizer's proposal, Luo Jing and three other folk climbers Zhang Liang, Dong Hongjuan, and Liu Yongzhong (they have completed the other 13) at the same time as holding safety ropes.
In the theory, climbing high altitude, everyone should follow their own rhythm, otherwise it is easy to breathe, but it consumes more physical fitness. Stopping, it is easy to cause frostbite and warm. "Hands climbing to the top, I think it is very interesting," Zhang University laughed. He blinked. "This Chinese -style climbing reflects the culture of the Chinese people. "
The news came, and the circle jumped in the circle. In the lens shot at the peak, Luo Jing was very calm, pulled the corner of his mouth, and worked hard to laugh.
She felt a little wrong. The road from the Central Peak to the main peak seemed to be too short. After only 10 minutes, it followed the guide of the organization. In doubt, on the night of out of the mountain, she sent a video to two international appraisal experts. She checked the information again, which mentioned that the two peaks had to go more than an hour.
A shadow passed through her mind: boarding the wrong top. On October 1st, the two experts replied to her, and they believed that she had not arrived at the main peak. Later, Nurbu sent a message from Charba, who had climbed with her, "we only reached the second highest point, this time we did not succeed", and the correct route was drawn on the ridge photos he took.
Luo Jing told the news to the organization, she hoped to return immediately and board again. The other party tried to soothe her emotionally, but when she said that she would announce the statement before "in China to preach we boarded fourteen seats", and the other party never responded.
She waited for 36 hours. She knew that the official statement would not come. Next, she did something. That matter is essentially related to her, but the ripple spreading will affect farther place.
On the morning of October 3, she announced the failure of the failure on her personal platform. In fact, this is also equivalent to announcing the failure of the mountaineering team, and even provides question arguments for the organizer's past climbing report. But there is no intermediate zone, either silent, or she must choose one. The moment she decided, she knew that "the response would not be small."
Subsequently, the climbing organization issued a statement that it had reached the actual highest point of Xifeng this time. "As for whether the highest point of Xifeng changes after the 2015 Nepal earthquake, the surveying and mapping department needs to be further demonstrated."
In the middle of the night that day, Cheng Xin got off the plane and rushed to Luo Jing's house. He saw a tired and swollen face, and he never saw her. As her friend, he was worried about her: the sponsors were passive; her future business value was seriously damaged; the organization's face was gone; teammates felt betrayal; she would become a "public enemy", and the mainstream of the Chinese mountaineering industry may not be able to accommodate her from here. Essence
There are many reasons to keep silent, and there is only one reason to say. "Mountaineering is not just to pursue a number. If I choose to conceal for this title, I deviate from the spirit of climbing and adventure." Luo Jing said.
Cheng Xin checked Luo Jing's communication records: the verification of the international certification agency "8000EERS", the guidance of Charba, and the professionals left a message with the organization ... There is nothing to talk about in technical details. He no longer persuaded, and now only one idea hovers in his mind. It foreshadows the end of Luo Jing's climbing story and summarizes the core of the entire story.
"Between the concept of mountaineering, interpersonal relationships, and business interests, she chose the former former."
Go down the mountain
On that day, 4 years have passed. That's her last mountain, she no longer climbed.
After a long experience, the consequences gradually surfaced. She has broken the relationship with several other folk climbers in the team in 2019. Zhang Liang refused to talk to Luo Jing with "Character". In his autobiography published in 2020, she completely wiped her name, although they had more intersections before. After Cheng Xin's endorsement contract expired, he did not renew it again.
There are no more domestic climbing climbing in the country. But even with the next chance, she knew that the person who could make a decision on that mountain was still not her.
Foreign sources can choose the line to climb the Hagang Ma Peak after applying for the National Sports General Administration. In theory, if Luo Jing changes her nationality, she can still reach the peak recognized internationally, and she can still enter the "Fourteen" club. But after experiencing all this, "Fourteen" as a specific goal seems to be no longer important.
She used to be an ambitious woman. Whether the obsession disappears naturally, or because it is objectively realized that the completion is impossible, so do you have to let go of the obsession? She couldn't answer. He asked for herself like this, she asked, "Don't you think that people will be painful?"
She called herself 13.5 8000 meters. This is a strange saying. Many things have no intermediate zone, upper or down, life or death, silent or come out. 13.5 What is going on? 0.5 is the most weak part of the entire story, the error of the 15 meters below the Hatharbang Ma Peak.
According to her herself, she was relieved a moment when she announced her. "I'm very relaxed. This is my node. I find real freedom. I can't restrain me, including honor, including my own goal." She re -recognized herself. She never regrets it.
Whether to her son or a friend, she has hardly talked about that topic.
"Do you say she put it down? I think everyone will leave such a little bit of bumps in their hearts. Life is unsatisfactory, and there is a shortage of regrets in some form. It may be the end of this matter." Zhang University said. He was relieved that Luo Jing would not live in his obsession in the second half of his life.
Many things happened in the climbing industry in 4 years. The "Fourteen" clubs have expanded to 45 people, one of which is the Charba Sanu, who has repeatedly served as her collaboration, and he is also the first person in the world to top all the fourteen mountains twice. Nepal's retired soldiers Nirmal Purja climbed 14 in 2019 to increase the fastest time to an incredible record. I looked at Luo Jing's early post and found that in 2014, Lajili Peak, they have been teammates. "Yes, his first 8000 meters with us." Luo Jing acknowledged.
Nurbu died in 2020 in the cooperation of Luo Jing. They met in 2013, and the relationship was better than loved ones. He saved her life. All the mountains were in danger, he stepped over, and the problem that plagued him was under the mountain. He fell into emotional disputes and both chose to commit suicide with the woman he fell in love. "Nurbu is gone." The bad news came, and Zhang University received a call from Luo Jing, which was the first sentence she said. She didn't say anything, the end of the phone was a long cry.
"Nurbu suddenly left, and Luo Jing may be a little farther away from the snow mountain." Zhang University said.
She never died in her dreams. After Nurbu left, she dreamed of him. He stood up and stood in front of her. Nurbu, aren't you dead, Luo Jing said. No, it's good, Nurbu said. Really, that's good, very happy, especially happy, she said. It was a happy dream.
Everyone has the day of going down. Is that the end? She did not give an exact answer.
Luo Jing and Nurbu
In her story, passion never disappeared. At the end of 2018, she played a gliding umbrella, which was amazing and fell in love immediately. In the next few years, she traveled to various domestic gliding umbrella bases, and she met her current boyfriend. He was a gliding umbrella coach. She finally sold the house in Beijing's Fifth Ring Road, bought the RV with that money, and swim around. She does not belong to anywhere, and she belongs to her anywhere. She makes money by lectures and outdoor leaders to maintain a minimalist life. The monthly living expenses only cost a few hundred yuan. That fall after her father died, she drove a car with her mother to travel to Xinjiang. It was a compensation time, which was beautiful and long.
When she met with "Character", she had a new hobby and skydiving. "I want to make myself more free, I can dance freely in the air," she said. The 25 jump is completed, and she has a single parachuting qualification. The 200 jump was completed, and she could learn to fly. The 500 jump is completed, and she will be a skydiving coach. In the latest video of her social media, she brought her mother and son to jump together, and the little bit of the year had grown into a big man of one meter eight.
On the last day I stayed, Luo Jing proposed that we would parachute together. However, in that clear morning, it was only notified to arrive at the venue. Because of military exercises, the planes of the parachuting school were not allowed to go to the sky. Time passed one minute and one second, and the banning notice was late. I have to leave. Unfortunately, there will always be, you plan to make courage, but what happened within the scope of your control happened. This is not your fault.
The important thing is the process. Luo Jing has found the answer. On the mountain or under the mountain, she is the same person. She is the same person, whether she is on the fourteenth mountain.
(Song Mingwei and Jiang Ping also contributed to this article)
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