The Mid -Autumn Festival menu of the Shanghai chef is hidden in the fresh secrets of Dianshan Lake

On the Mid -Autumn Festival on September 10, 2022, at noon dinner, a restaurant that did not show the mountains in Beixinjing faced the Suzhou River, and the box came from the box.

The dinner was met for a long time. After the outbreak, everyone was busy.

"Mid -Autumn Festival I want to spend the holiday with my family. Let's put it at noon!"

Friends are accustomed to his waywardness, and agreed by happily, and there was this wonderful seat.

Shanghai sauce duck, crab flour stewed eggs, oily training ponds, hexagonal diamond -roasted edamame ... a large table, colorful dishes, jumping back and forth between Jinyu Mantang and lead Hua, spreading a stable and solid rhythm, hooking The old ladies who were present did not raise their heads, and they didn't say anything, just eat food.

Xu Mingen was sitting in the table, watching his friends with a smile, and a little regretted that he ate the cage fresh meat in the small broken shop next to the Jinze Farmers' Market in the morning.

feast

In the evening of the Mid -Autumn Festival, until 2:30 in the morning, Xu Mingen got up at 5:30 as usual and drove to the farmer's market in Qingpu Jinze to buy food for an hour.

When Chen Xi was slightly exposed, the fishermen who squatted overnight in Dianshan Lake were full of fresh lakes and stopped at the pier outside the farmer's market. The fishermen skillfully moved the ship to the shore and set the stalls on the spot.

At this time, it was not in the early six o'clock. At the beginning of the sun, the plastic basin of the live fish was applied to a layer of golden glory.

Back to Dianshan Lake, the ancient town of Jinze is the "first stop" of the Lake Fresh ashore. In the Mid -Autumn Festival, wild bass, catfish, catfish, pond carp, white waterfish, and river shrimp have been listed, which has achieved another blessing of Jiangnan people.

Since Xu Mingen discovered this market seven or eight years ago, long -distance purchasing for three or four times a week has become part of his life.

He knows that the reason for the purchase of ingredients should be traced as much as possible.

Fresh goods that are alive, beautiful and rare, if it is not directly "killed" to the source, it is not easy to see one side, let alone the table on his own.

Initially, Xu Mingen went to Zhujiajiao to buy, but found that the market there was also the fresh stalls that were delivered by people.

Where did these people come out? Xu Mingen decided "a chicken thief".

When he went to purchase, he deliberately found a battery car, followed the car that followed all the way, and discovered the treasure market of Kim Ze.

Xu Mingen, who is "Mossian's Head" and a beard of beard, is very stature and fashionable, and the villagers in the farmer's market appear to be incompatible among the villagers who enter and exit. His appearance has become a talk among the market stall owners.

It is said that this "Shanghai" fashion customer is a famous chef. Some people have seen him on TV, and there are rumors that he is a man of various business leaders and celebrities when he set up a banquet. Therefore, he "understands the scriptures", does not bargain in good goods, and packs all at one time; the big road is taken to let him palm, and most of them are "shot".

After a long time, the stall owners in the market were familiar with him. Xu Mingen established his own small supply system in Lajia, who had a rough voice with the villagers.

The wild catfish, the adult's arms are so long, the stall owners have two together, Xu Mingen said nothing, buying off his hand. After the killing, it can be marinated on the spot, which can keep the meat of the fish fresh in the hot early autumn climate; it can also be added to the fish with full salt as the bottom when steamed.

In the market, marinated on the spot, and the salt used to force the sweetness of the fish. This is the cooking method of the chef's well -known cooking. It is also the secret of the aunts and mother who bought the burned aunts.

"Taihu No. 1" Grandma, huge and unparalleled, has a low output. It is a famous dining table named in the waters of Dianshan Lake. Seeing the "Taihu No. 1" in the market, it was only yellow, and it was comparable to Xiao Qinglong. Xu Mingen had a bottom -brought back to the table and served on the table. The face of Li Zizi took care of Qi Quan.

Go to the poultry stall and buy a few native chickens and hemp. The chicken stew soup itself is a hard dish, and it is the base of various dishes in the burn method. The hemp duck is the best choice for the chefs who are pursuing the ultimate taste.

In the farmer's market, there are still direct vegetable stalls that are directly mixed with farmhouses. Old farmers pick vegetables from home. The thickness of the loofah is different, and the lotus root is uneven. Although it is not as good as the large -scale planting vegetables on the stalls next door, it is expensive to grow and make green products. Many vegetables are "non -standard varieties" and are not products that can be grown on a large scale.

Xu Mingen knew that the hottest is definitely the tender and green hexagonal diamonds in Dianshan Lake, but he was not in a hurry, but the elder brother who called the fish stall to help proof.

"Only the hexagonal diamond mouth adopted by the Lake Lake is good enough. The inner lake is now full of Fushou snails and will affect the quality of the rhombus. Good hexagonal rhombus is crispy and sweet, basically fruit, cooking pink, is the ideal that is ideal. The taste. Lingjiao is produced from the outer lake or inner lake. Only fishermen know the most. If they know that they are layman, they must ask for things to the inner bank. This is the humility that the chef should have. "

Then, Xu Mingen also called a few pounds of pounds to practice ponds, and planned to make oil.

After the purchase is complete, put a few bottles of the local people's self -made snow. The minced meat and eggs with pickles in the snow, and the burrito are made of the so -called North Caipan South, simple, and the aroma is aggressive.

After walking around the farmer's market, the owner of the aquatic stall helped Xu Mingen moved to the car. Today, he was a bit excited. He was inserted in his pocket with both hands. The ghosts were gone to the breakfast stalls that once vowed to "never eat for weight loss". A pair of old couples, guarding a small broken shop, even without the name of the signature store, but Xu Mingen's heart was good. A bowl of small ravioli and a cage of fresh meat burned the belly.

The chef's busy day has just begun.

At 8:30 in the morning, the restaurant's chefs went to the store one after another and followed Chef Xu for more than ten years. They were already used to such a rhythm: the boss bought fresh ingredients every morning, and then a pile of picking and picking work. On a large bag of water chestnuts on this day, the two masters helped peel the shell together.

Unlike most restaurants, chef Xu's sauce duck is cold and hot. In a pot of oil, seven or eight minutes, the duck's epidermis fried golden and crispy, the oil was decomposed, and the duck body narrowed one third. Then put the duck in a high -pressure cooker, add the secret seasoning formula of the secret, and simmer until it is crispy.

The duck's upside -down appearance was gorgeous. Xu Mingen separated the flesh and flesh with a knife and fork. A Mid -Autumn Festival private banquet in the minds of Shanghai customers can stand steadily.

Another wild catfish from Dianshan Lake steamed the bacon, and took the fish of the non -keel. Chicken oil, spread on the salty meat that is marinated in winter, different salts, and the aroma of different types of oils are intertwined with each other. The stimulus of taste buds and nasal cavity is simple and full. It is simple and unprepared.

This is a food adventure without a menu for the diners; for the chef, this is not a gimmick and a suspense, just because there will be any ingredients worth serving on the table today.

Family feast

In the afternoon, the guests were happy, and a feast disappeared in the laughter, leaving the cup of mess behind him. Xu Mingen shook his hand to send the last friend to leave, turned around and turned to the car, ready to go home.

In the evening, the family banquet of a big family is Xu Mingen's real highlight today.

Like the chef's banquet described in many movies, Xu Mingen's Shanghai Family Banquet has less gimmicks and dazzling skills, and more simple tenderness.

Xu Mingen said: "The Mid -Autumn Festival, a big family gathered together, eating a reunion meal is a tradition that has not changed for decades. A family, round table, all chickens, whole ducks, whole fish, and whole meat are standard."

Xu Mingen's grandfather Shen Aru was the first generation of chefs in Meilong Town Restaurant.

From the memory of memory, the family is a mix of the Mid -Autumn Festival.

"The whole family is divided into labor, the eldest son is responsible for cold dishes, and the younger son is responsible for hot dishes. Worship the ancestors before eating. Two placed on three. "

Even in the era of lack of supplies, Shanghai people can still use simple ingredients to make momentum.

An assorted, the red intestine pave the bottom, the codes are placed on the top of the fish, meat pine, and then a circle of preserved eggs. The table was on the table, and it was an excellent dish. The elders pushed the cup and changed the cup.

A large pot of potato with leather, with a plate of white sugar, is not only a traditional food in the Mid -Autumn Festival, but also a snack that children love.

Bad edama beans must not be less. On the 15th of the lunar calendar, it was still hot during the day, and a bit of bad goods, continuing the breath of summer.

White -cut chicken is a hegemon in cold dishes. I had to buy chickens. After the pan, the cold water stimulated the crispy and tender of the chicken skin. The remaining chicken soup was kept. Echo at the end.

Ducks can be made into ducks or crispy ducks, all of which are based on the cooking skills, but use hemp ducks are iron law. Chicken miscellaneous, duck miscellaneous, and green peppers are stir -fry together. The Shanghai people call it to stir -fry the time. It is the dishes that adults have drunk three tours and the atmosphere.

The whole fish does not pay attention to the type of fish. The key is to be sweet and sour.

Then you have to arrange the big meat. Xu Mingen said that the Suzhou people eat two pieces of meat, cherry meat and sauce meat in the Mid -Autumn Festival. "Speaking of the whole meat, it is not large. Everyone clamps a chopstick and tastes the taste."

The "luxury" of the festival is to make another osmanthus meat. Buy a pork ridge, cut into small diced diced, use eggs, flour, raw flour, salt, and green onion to fry the meat diced in the oil pan. A small piece of meat can fried a large plate of osmanthus meat.

Rotten shredded pork and vegetables on the table was the final of the "salty mouth" that night.

In the end, the family appreciates the moon and eats a large and round moon cake -this is the most classic way of eating in the Shanghai people.

To this day, Xu Mingen's uncle has also been proud of these nine dishes at home. "Social development has changed, many things have changed, but the taste of the family has never changed."

Xu Mingen's favorite movie is "Food Men and Women". According to himself, he has watched it 50 times.

At the beginning of the movie, the protagonist killed fish, dismantle chicken, and steamed crab powder in the kitchen, and the sense of affection was deep. It also reminds him of the situation of following his grandfather kitchen since he was a child.

When he was a child, Xu Mingen was greedy and loved, and he always wrapped his grandfather for cooking.

Although the grandfather is a chef, he did not easily pass the art to the grandchildren. At the age of 10, my grandfather said to him, "First go to the market with me for three years to figure out the ingredients of seasons seasons. As a chef, the most important thing is to stick to it. Frozen hands can be learned about art. "A little older, I ca n’t see the reading, and I can eat what I have to do when I learn cooking.

Two years of cutting side dishes, two years of cold dishes, two years of snacks, finally can be overturned, and you have to start with soup and stir -fried vegetables.

The grandfather said, "Teach you, you don't want you to inherit the mantle, but you hope that you can eat it wherever you go in the future."

The grandfather knew that Sun Xinkuan was a wild, and sooner or later, he secretly taught many business doors outside the stove.

Be sure to buy the vegetable market in person, and it comes from the teachings of the grandfather.

"Don't ask someone to send it in, the quality of the ingredients sent in. The goods entering Shanghai, Shanghai to the market, and the market to the store, at least two layers of skin. You can pick it up yourself. The ingredients and the price are also the best. So two layers of profits are pinched in your hands. You can sell it boldly when you come back. You ca n’t sell it, and you can throw it boldly. "

inherited

First, he was a small worker on Shibu Road Food Street, and he was a chef in a number of restaurants in many bangs. Finally, he established his own portal and touched it for decades. Xu Mingen mixed in the circle.

Shang Jia's celebrities and performing arts stars came one after another. There was no photo of chef Xu and the guests in the shop, and only the comic statue of the old man was hanging on the wall.

No matter how expensive the guests, walking into Xu Mingen's restaurant, the classic dishes like salty chickens, hemp balls, and crab powder are always like. The classics that every family can do should stand on their own signboards in the flavor. It is not complicated to say that wearing it.

Xu Mingen's hemp ball, wrapped in white sesame seeds, stuffed peanuts inside, sipped, lips and teeth were fragrant. The traditional hemp balls in Shanghai are hollow, and the creativity of the peanut filling is also related to the Kanazawa Farmers' Market.

In the market, he saw farmers selling their own sesame and peanuts. Not only is the price cheaper than the urban area, but more extensive craftsmanship, Sesame retains the aroma of the epidermis more. Later, he simply collected all the sesame and peanuts raised by farmers, and it was called "Futures Investment".

Xu Mingen's secret of stocking is also used on crab flour dishes. His crab flour dishes are complicated, including stir -fried crab powder, crab powder tofu, crab powder chopping vegetables, crab powder roasted powder, crab powder stewed eggs. The sales volume of each category is difficult to divide, and it is contributed for a year. Even in the season without crabs, diners can taste delicious crab powder without fishy smell.

"When the crab is about to fall in the market, it is only 20 to thirty yuan a pound. I have to stock up 3 to 4,000 pounds each year. Please ask someone to remove crab powder. Crab powder is cooked with boiled lard, and it will be seal and frozen to minus 40 degrees Celsius. When it is used, it is the same as just dismantling. Buying a freezer is a small money, which maintains the value of flavor, but it is a visible cash. "

Behind Xu Mingen, there are two high men.

The painter's circle of Laozhangren is "馋 胚". They walked on the streets and painted the lives where the people were eating and living. "Others eat vegetables, they only say good. When they meet these old gentlemen, they will tell me if they taste the wrong way, how should they change?"

A stuffed green vegetables of oil bracelets became a conspiracy in the hands of Xu Mingen's wisdom in the hands of Xu Mingen.

The grandfather said to the foreign grandson: "Nong Nong as oil gluten roasted meat, be sure to put some fritters or puppets, just like the northern Jiangsu people as a ball in a ball, the taste is soft, not fat, and the first bite is a bit elastic."

Laozhangren told his son -in -law: "Ningbo people have golden silk vegetables. They must drop some vinegar, but when they eat, they cannot taste the sour taste inside. It's even more glutinous. "

"The integration of the concept of cooking in northern Jiangsu and Zhejiang gave me an imagination space. After the frost, the local green area, the whole oil pan, and the oil gluten plugged in the meat. When the pellet was put, the oil gluten was at the bottom , Often the ravioli is put on, often the amaranth is eliminated, and the oil gluten is still underneath. At this time, I found that I ca n’t eat it. I can only bring the oil gluten and take it home. "

"This is the way I let guests remember this dish. Many people will go home to buy some greens and make themselves. With the remaining oil gluten, I can’t make my taste, so I have to come back to eat. This is a heart dish, but in fact it is right to say. "

In the final analysis, the game of diners is just the fusion of ancient law. Xu Mingen refused to admit his "innovation", and his mind was inherited by the gang of dishes.

"The diet of the Shanghai people revealed the small love of Jiangnan's life. A dish of stinky tofu, with a plate of soy sauce, a plate of vinegar, a plate of chili oil, a small glass of rice wine and a small glass of gold award Bailan. Now a dozen dozen. The gold award Bailan Di, a bottle of gold, is connected to the Western life in the eyes of the older generation. "

"A plate of fennel beans, a plate of sea -vegetable mushrooms (amaranth stalks), with a glass of rice wine, the salty of fennel beans, the freshness of the sea vegetable mushrooms, and the sweetness of the rice wine can let them talk about one afternoon."

Inheritance is not easy, it is not difficult to understand, but to understand the local culture and the philosophy of life. Therefore, Xu Mingen never thought of opening a branch.

A few years ago, he retreated from a larger space and came to Beixinjing to sneak. 9 tables and 2 meals a day are the limits he is willing to control, and it is also the magical market of Jinze that can support the limit of supply.

With the small flower garden at the door of the restaurant, he built a small vegetable field.Radish, feathers, spic, vermiculia, aloe, mint, grow strongly in the soil.There are two bamboo poles in front of the shop to climb the vine to the loofah; after the winter solstice, the rope is pulled up, and through the wind, the salted fish, bacon, and salted sausages of the new year can hang up high."This has the feeling of private food!"

Liberation Daily · Shangguan News Original manuscript, reprinting without permission

Author: Qin Dongying Dong Tianxian

WeChat editor: Jiasinmin

School pair: Xiaochuan

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