Yuanshi Story │ Sea Plasma "Overlight"

From non -heritage "sea urchin" to "net red" sea urchin moon cakes, the migration story of several generations of South Australia's family.

The origin of the name of Hong Kong has a folklore: "In 1841, the British colonists landed in Hong Kong and asked the name of Aqun on the Bay Boat to ask the name of the family. The group's accent 'Hong Kong "is remembered, so it becomes the general name of the island."

The "Family Family" mentioned here is a small ethnic group except Guangfu, Hakka, and Chaoshan people along the coast. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the "Floating Family House" family members formed a "water fishing village" on the southern coast of Mainland China. They were scattered on the shore by boats and one boat. The creatures in the sea are the main food sources of the family.

Shenzhen South Australia, one of the two major sea urchins in China, the other is Dalian. In South Australia, there is a folk saying that there is a "no money to buy eggs and meals to eat sea urchin", and now it sounds quite "Versailles".

But for the family, this is the ordinary ingredient. From March each year, it enters the harvest period of sea urchins. After the ebb, the family members are salvaged one by one to make a variety of sea urchin dishes: "sea urchin fried dishes", "sea urchin steamed rice", "marinated salty sea urchin" Native

When the family is very valued, the Dragon Boat Festival will be wrapped into the dumplings and gave it to relatives and friends.

In 2020, the "South Australian Sea Crossing Skills" was included in the fifth batch of municipal intangible cultural heritage list in Shenzhen. Before the Mid -Autumn Festival, I drove to South Australia. In the production workshop of Zhang Changmei, the fourth -generation inheritor, "Sea Pyrian Queen", I not only tasted the sea urchin, but also tasted the latest sea urchin flowing heart moon cake.

"Gilbians" by the beach

On September 1, I drove from Nanshan to South Australia according to the address sent by Zhang Changmei. This week, Shenzhen is experiencing a new wave of epidemic. Zhang Changmei repeatedly confirmed with me, "The people who come are all green codes, isn't it secret? We are a food workshop, very strict." I said to her and said, " Rest assured, if you have any questions, someone will help you stop it early. "

Early in the morning, I picked up the camera reporter Xiaoqiu and intern Xu Jia, all the way to the west to east.

The Shenzhen Coast Line is divided into the western coastline and the eastern coastline. The official website of the Shenzhen Planning and Natural Resources Bureau shows that the western shoreline is from the East of Baoshong River to Futian Shenzhen River Estuary, and the eastern coastline is from Shatoujiao, Yantian to Dapengba. The total length is 260.5 kilometers, of which 160.1 kilometers are artificial shoreline and 100.4 kilometers of natural shoreline.

This way, just driving along the coastline. In the west, the south of Binhai Avenue in Nanshan is facing artificial shoreline. Long beach trails and mangroves are a good place for urban people to take a walk on weekends, and in the north are the high -rise forests of modern cities.

In the east, as soon as you entered Yantian, the style of painting changed, crossing caves, glances at sea views, and endless sea and pleasant beaches. This is a natural shoreline that makes people relax and open.

Two hours later, we arrived at the door of Nantian Pavilion Seafood Restaurant in Zhang Changmei, South Australia. The first floor was renovating and the second floor was a production workshop. This row is all seafood restaurants. Facing the South Australian Bay, the sea and the sky. I pointed at the sea and said to the two colleagues who came together, "Sixty years ago, this is a completely different scene."

Countless family boats have formed a unique fishing village- "Floating Water Township". Ship houses are inseparable from the sea. Whether it is fixed on the beach, or a house that is fixed on the shore, usually each ship is a family unit, and the three generations of young and old live in the cabin. The first and tail of the water boat on the water. In the evening, children picked up shellfish sea urchin by the sea. Adults cook seafood in the cabin. This is completely different from the maritime nomadic groups that are completely different from farming culture.

Regarding the origin of the family, the academic world did not conclude. It is generally believed that the family was the Han people who lived in the land. The Qin Dynasty was forced by the official army and became a refugee.

"Guangdong Tongzhi" records that during the Jin Dynasty, there were more than 50,000 households in Guangdong, and "Especially" in Huizhou and Chaozhou. In the "Chaoyang County Chronicle", there are no rooms on the land of the family members, no matter how they are cultivating, men and women live on the boat to live fishing for fishing. Shenzhen's "Xin'an County Chronicle" records that the "households" floating house in eastern Guangdong, do nothing to cultivate, and live in fishing.

For a long time, "the people" have not been allowed to go ashore, live on the water, and flow dispersed. Accompanied by the sea, sprinkled the net in the evening, took the boat as the home, and sang to the sea, putting a touch of Gypusai's temperament to the family.

I have seen in the article of Shenzhen folklore expert Liao Honglei: The family named the family named the children, such as the first, fifteenth, and 30th, etc.; Men like to be called "guy", Lu Geyan, Huo Zaohai, etc.; Women are named "Shui Mei", or the word "Xi", such as Chen Shuiying, Shishui Xi, Lin Guixi, Zheng Ximei, etc.

I asked Zhang Changmei, "Are you a family?"

She answered me: "The ancestral home was a family, and later came to the countryside."

The rice dumplings have "bold"

She is talking about "the people go ashore."

At the beginning of the founding of the People's Republic of China, the Dai people were used as the 57th nation. I found in the online information that in the 1950s, the ethnic columns in the household registration of Hainan's family were "Lang". By the 1960s, the "Dai" was identified as the Han nationality, and there was no minority ethnic group.

Now there are no family members in Shenzhen, they have all shielded and integrated into urban life.

Since the end of the Qing Dynasty, the government has continuously mobilized the family members to live in land. In November 1949, the People's Government of Guangdong Province announced the disable the title of "Family", which was changed to "water residents", and at the same time mobilized water residents to relocate land. In 1962, the Baoan County Government of Shenzhen was planned to build Nanyu Village in the South Australian Yukang Beach, and settled the people ashore to settle. In 1962 and 1978, 3 rows of 30 and 7 56 collective residential houses were built twice. Because the newly settled place settled in South Australia and Hong Kong, it took the word South Australia and fishermen. Therefore, it was named Nanyu Village. Another settlement is called "Half Sky Cloud Village". The entire village is surrounded by mountains and sometimes clouds. After the reform and opening up, the family members of the village went down the mountain and moved into the building, and now it has become a hollow village. Over the years, the mysterious and quiet half -day Yuncun, as the highest ancient village in Shenzhen, was once developed into a hiking route by donkey friends, and even known as the "last peach blossom source" in Shenzhen.

Zhang Changmei comes from Ban Tianyun Village.

"The people go ashore", although the living customs have undergone tremendous changes, but the fishing ingredients and sea catching activities are inseparable from the family. A strong stroke.

What taste of？ 道 疍? Zhang Changmei said, "Of course, it is to eat the sea." In the past, the fishing boat hull was narrow, and the stove was not large. Therefore, dishes such as fried and frying on the food lists are more similar to steaming, cooking, and stewing. Catch the sea to discuss the sea, the ingredients are fresh, and the practice is simple.

Hychinoma is one of the representatives.

Sea urchin is one of the most common fishing ingredients. The Dapeng Peninsula was embraced by Dapeng Bay and Daya Bay in the east, the sea was clear, and the seagrass was fat. From east to west alone, the South Australian Office has six sea urchin fields including water head sand, half -day clouds, goosegong bay, Xiyong, Tung Chung, and Yangmengkeng. Every year before and after the Spring Festival, it is the "harvest season" of sea urchin before the Dragon Boat Festival.

Last year, the output of sea urchin in South Australia reached tens of tons, and the sea urchin meat was more than 40,000 kilograms. Zhang Changmei said: "The epidemic affects tourism, but the corresponding ecology has improved, and the output of sea urchin has improved. Especially in the first half of 2020, I haven't eaten such fat sea urchins for many years."

The epidemic controls human actions, but for the creatures of nature, it finally won a small breath, and everything grows, but shows a friendly ecological environment.

In Shenzhen in September, there is no fresh sea urchin. I heard that after the dragon boat water came, the temperature of the seawater rose and the sea urchin entered the spawning period, and it became "thin", not so fat. Yes, eating sea urchin is similar to that of crab yellow, and they eat their gonads.

I asked Zhang Changmei: "There was no refrigerator before, how did you save sea urchins?"

Zhang Changmei laughed: "This problem reminds me of a child."

There are many typhoons on the seaside, and rice harvests belong to the day to watch the sky. "The rice is not enough, but the sea urchin can't be eaten. The part of the Huang Cancan part is dug out from the living sea urchin. The ingredients of all kinds of dishes; and the other is marinated into salty sea urchins, which can be extended to several months. "

"No wonder the sea urchin is so precious. We think it is precious sea urchin, but for the family members, it is actually precious. The sea urchin was originally the‘ flatness' of egg yolk. ”I said to my colleagues with a smile. Xiaoqiu said: "This is like people from Yangcheng Lake say they are poor, and they can only eat hairy crabs."

It can be said that the South Australian coastal dumplings are the food made by the family's full use of the ocean gifts. Its production skills are only circulated in Yuncun and its surrounding areas, and only before the Dragon Boat Festival, it is hand -made by folk families and passed on hand with hand. The method of mouth has been inherited for more than two hundred years.

Zhang Changmei said: "I still remember the great -grandmother of the 90s to pay the sea lover at home during the Dragon Boat Festival, and then my mother wrapped it. After the bag was wrapped, I shared it with the neighbor's family. Follow my grandma and mother to learn to Baohai. "

Later, this production method was inherited to Zhang Changmei.

Is it salty or sweet?

Zhang Changmei's reception room is full of packaging gift boxes and medals of "sea urchin". Last year, the "South Australian Cyber ​​Dumplings" was awarded the "Shenzhen Swing Ceremony", and the sales volume increased significantly.

"Is the sea urchin be sweet or salty?" I asked her.

I was a northerner and came to the south. There were two kinds of foods that could not be reconciled: sweet tofu brain and salty rice dumplings.

Zhang Changmei asked the employee to take two "sea urchin dumplings" with frozen vacuum packaging.

On the table, I was stunned with Xiaoqiu, but it turned out to be long.

Zhang Changmei explained that this is related to the leaves. All the raw materials of sea urchin are used in the local area. Different leaves are also different, using a plant called "mango" in South Australia. Due to the slender mango, the rice dumplings wrapped in Nan'ao are all slender.

Whenever the eighth day of April of the lunar calendar, he started to wrap the sea urchin. In the early morning, the mango with dew in the mountains was picked back by people. The glutinous rice was washed and soaked for an hour. Sea urchin meat, wrapped in mango leaves, tightened with local water grass, and cooking for 2.5 hours on high heat.

We eat the frozen version of the sea urchin dumplings. After the water is boiled for 20 minutes, we brought it up again. Xiaoqiu quickly put on the camera and was ready to take a section of "sea urchin on the tip of the tongue".

Fatting the mango leaf coat, it looks a bit like the peeled banana section. After cutting a few sections, we tasted it together. It was the taste of fresh and salty fragrance. The sea urchin almost melted in food, and it was difficult to distinguish the naked eye. But it tastes both the delicious sea urchin, but also the soft waxy, the fragrance of the mango leaves, and the taste of the ingredients. I asked Zhang Changmei: "How many sea urchins are there such a dumplings?"

"A pound of sea urchin can make 20 dumplings, and one in one is 25 grams."

"The production of sea urchin has increased, how is the sales of sea urchin?"

"80,000 items were sold last year, and 200,000 this year."

"It seems that the market is very good. Is the buyer available in Shenzhen or the whole country?"

"At first, I was a cooked customer, and then I slowly became famous. Now it is mainly purchased by customers in Guangdong Province, and some buy it to relatives and customers in other provinces."

Originally, the sea urchin was only a family cuisine of South Australian residents. How did they market the country? This has something to do with Zhang Changmei's catering business. In 2004, Zhang Changmei opened a restaurant and made more than 300 sea urchins. As a gift, she was given to relatives and friends. Unexpectedly, she was well received and asked for "adding orders."

"You can carry out this traditional food", so, in the second year, Zhang Changmei began to develop the marketization of sea urchin. The most difficult for sea urchin to contain seafood. The most difficult thing is to keep fresh. "I saw the kind of foam box containing Japanese tofu when I was purchased at the east gate. The size was just right. With ice packs, there should be no problem with sea urchin to keep fresh for two or three days." In this way, sea urchin has entered the market.

According to the mouth of the neighborhood folks, there were more than 14,000 sea urchin dumplings that were not promoted, which surprised Zhang Changmei.

At present, there are many merchants who do sea urchin in South Australia, and everyone is different. Zhang Changmei also had higher requirements on fresh preservation and packaging. She specifically set up a new design gift box, and the cover of the cover of the cover is to spell the word "Shenzhen", which is very representative of Shenzhen.

"Are you worried about competition?" I asked her.

"I also want a lot of people to do it. One person can't open the market. Ocean resources are everyone. Only when everyone does it together can this area be famous and the sea urchin can be promoted to the whole country."

In the past two years, Zhang Changmei participated in many non -heritage propaganda activities, and often went to the "South Australian Sea Balls" production school lectures at the community Minwei project, and took the community residents to wrap it together. Many children from Hong Kong and Macau are also interested in sea urchin.

"Xiao Tao, who came to me to learn in Hong Kong, often eaten sea urchin dumplings when he was a kid, but never knew how to make it. He specializes in learning Baoyu."

If you learn more people, you can become productive forces in busy, driving employment in the entire area. In the Dragon Boat Festival, Zhang Changmei organized the housewife nearby to join the Baojun army together. "Everyone is better than a bag, some people are faster, and they can make more than 10,000 yuan a month."

In my interview experience, many non -heritage projects are facing the dilemma of no one who is about to die, but in the inheritance of "sea urchin", when the cultural heritage continues to enter our daily life, it is truly "living". , "Fire".

Haitian opens a "mouth", you can listen

The Dragon Boat Festival has already passed. After eating sea urchin, what do you do in the second half of the year?

She pointed to a few large boxes piled up in the reception room, "It's about to be Mid -Autumn Festival, make sea urchin moon cakes."

During the interview, there was a phone call in from time to time. Zhang Changmei was busy selling her new work "Sea Polishment Milk Yellow Moon Cake".

She brought out a porcelain box with a cut sea urchin five kernel moon cakes and sea urchin flowing heart milk yellow moon cakes. These moon cakes are the works of Zhang Changmei different periods.

"Moon cakes are more difficult to make rice dumplings. Moon cakes are baked foods. They have high requirements for processing sea urchins. They cannot capture the taste of moon cakes, but also retain the characteristics of sea urchin. The first time I tried to make sea urchin five kernel moon cakes, there were many kinds of all kinds of mixes. The ratio is a waste of more than 1,000 moon cakes. "

I tasted one by one, sea urchin flowing heart milk yellow moon cakes, sweet but not greasy, the umami taste of sea urchins is more flavorful, it is the "net red" product of the past two years.

But I prefer the sea urchin and five kernel moon cakes. Bite a bite. It is full of cashews, olive kernels, and walnuts. The ingredients are solid and are comparable to cutting cakes. Sweet moon cakes with southern seafood, I ate the taste of the ocean.

In my opinion, this special taste is also the result of the cultural integration of the family's family ashore. This is consistent with the trajectory of megons when I trace the origin of the family.

The family members from Han people to refugees, to the people, and then ashore to return to the Han people. After this circle, the farming culture brought into marine culture and merged the marine culture back to land culture. Specific Cantonese cuisine.

Don't look at this is a 60 grams of sea urchin dumplings and sea urchin moon cakes. The small sea urchin "ashore" tells a long and vital cultural story.

▲ Zhang Changmei (Huang Yi) led the community residents to do sea urchin together.

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Reporter: Xie Chenxing

Drawing: Cheng Tian

Edit: Li Huifang

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