The chicken has no chicken smell, not you have changed, it's the chicken changed

Author: Jiwujun

Chicken has a chicken flavor, which is the highest appreciation of a chicken in Cantonese!

Regardless of whether it is a signature dish, there must be white -cut chicken in the Cantonese restaurant, and a few white -cut chicken will be hung at the entrance of the roast shop.

Chicken must be a chicken; "cut" is the expression of Sven, "cutting" is naturally happy; and "white" is not only the color of the meat, but also a taste, a kind of flavor reduced the seasoning, the seasoning is reduced To the lowest technique is the natural beauty that makes those northern friends who are too "light" in Cantonese cuisine.

But now, even in Guangdong, it is difficult to eat chickens with "chicken flavor".

Is there too much food that Cantonese has eaten, or has chickens changed?

Figure | Q sauce 酱

When a chicken walking chicken, no longer run freely

Whether it was the first known chickens, the three famous chickens, the Qingyuan hemp, Zhanjiang chicken, and Huizhou beard chicken, or the later Zhaoqing apricot chicken, Xinyi Huaixiang chicken, Zhongshan Sanda chicken, Cantonese never lack of white -cut chicken Good variety.

According to research, as early as the Qin and Han dynasties, Lingnan was already a "chicken farmer". By the time of the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the chickens had become the main edible poultry of Lingnan people.

Zhang Yizhen, a foodie of the Republic of China, once commented: "The ordinary chickens produced in Guangdong are also better than Shanghai. This is probably because of the land. The climate is relatively hot. The worm -based feed, natural nutrients are naturally sufficient, and the taste is naturally more delicious. "

The "chicken flavor" that Cantonese said, in fact, is the strength of the taste and the rich fragrance. In the long and humid hotness of Guangdong, the free -raised three yellow chickens can run in the vast mountain forest in northern Guangdong. The muscles running out are the rich sources of collagen and elastic protein.

The source of umami is glutamate and nucleotide. The former is MSG, the latter is the key component of chicken essence. The growth period of chicken is long, and the accumulation of nucleotides will be more. The bugs, fruits and earthworms in the woods are their unique "flavor tonic".

But now there are very few chickens that are raised in the process. The mechanized breeding chicken, feed with corn, soybean meal and other ingredients, the taste is "plain". In addition, there is only a month of growth, the meat quality is "very tender", but the flavor of chicken is difficult to get rid of the chicken.

Figure 1 ｜ Sister -in -law of the same wind ©

Western chickens enter the venue, soil chicken exits

Gourmet Wang Zengqi has praised the chicken in "Kunming's Vegetables" in "Kunming". But after forty years, when Wang Lao ate steamed chicken again, his mood was destined to be disappointed.

The best chicken species in making steamed chicken is the unique variety from Wuding County, Chuxiong Prefecture -Wuding Chicken, but this local chicken with a history of more than 600 years and listed as a tribute, but now it is rarely used for it. Make steamed chicken.

Like the martial arts chicken, the Qingyuan hemp chickens used by the Cantonese of the Cantonese and the Luyuan chicken used in Changshu, Jiangsu Changshu. These "native chickens" are now being quietly squeezed out of the Chinese dining table.

Figure 1 ｜ Mu Xiaochun

Figure 2 ｜ BLACK+DECKER ©

The yellow feather chickens that were raised in the past were all chickens born in China. Later, in order to make the yellow feather chicken's meat output more, the hidden white feather chicken was introduced as the mother -in -law with yellow feathers.

Today, even if they see the three yellow chickens in the countryside, they are likely to be a "hybrid chicken".

Since 1972, the Queen of the Netherlands has begun to give China 50 Baiyu chickens, and the white feather chicken has embarked on the land of China.

Because of the high production efficiency and high feed conversion rate, under the control of temperature, light, and feed, it can shorten the outlet time to 40 days. It is currently the highest product attributes in the Chinese market and the largest outlet.

The white feathers, imported species, are mostly raised in the north. The yellow feather chicken is more common in the south and is also known as the three yellow chickens or native chickens.

In 2021, a total of 6.532 billion white feathers and 4.042 billion yellow -feather chicken were produced in my country. The amount of white feathers and chickens occupied 56.43%of the entire meat chicken.

In contrast, a native chicken eats at least 200 grams of food a day, and a pound of grain is calculated at 1.5 yuan. After 6 months, the grain alone is 108 yuan. Transportation costs ... Such a high -priced native chicken that eats too much, slowly, is destined to "roll" a white feather chicken with an average price of 50 yuan.

Factory poultry breeding allows us to eat protein -rich poultry eggs at low prices, but it also greatly squeezes the market space of naturally releasing pure earth chicken. This has determined that the chicken we eat is difficult to return The flavor of the past.

When Ice Fresh Chicken replaces fresh chicken

Just like eating vegetables on the day of eating vegetables, fish and shrimp should be jumped fiercely. The worship of "Lao Guang" to live chicken is the epitome of the people of Guangdong's people's pursuit of fresh ingredients. In 2013, H7N9 bird flu was raging. In order to reduce the harm, the government began to prohibit the sale of living chickens in major areas. Many teachers and retired elderly people in Haizhu District are unwilling. They have to go to Yuexiu District, who can also sell living chickens, and buy a raw chicken to "enjoy".

"Concentrated slaughtering, cold chain distribution, and fresh listing", after years of implementation, the ice fresh chicken placed one click has become the choice of many Cantonese families.

Unlike middle -aged and elderly consumer groups, young people's preference for living chicken consumption is no longer strong, and they even prefer KFC's fried chicken.

Figure 1, 2 ｜ Network

Some people think that Cantonese people are pursuing raw chickens and dedication to "now killing". From the perspective of food science, they belong to some kind of "superstition" and "stubborn". However, the use of ice chicken instead of raw chicken is like the old lady who worshiped the "chicken with chicken" as the soul of the white chicken, like the end of an era. "It is better not to make a white chopped chicken with ice chicken."

As one of the "four famous chickens in Guangzhou", there are more than 40 years of history of the roadside chickens.

The boss said, "To choose a chicken, you must choose when the chicken is alive. According to the chicken's eyes, hair color, and chicken feet, it is good to judge that a chicken is delicious. Don't come out. "

Wen Ge, the old name "Wen Ji Yixin Chicken", who was managed by Master Qingping Chicken Master Qingping, said that the taste of fresh chickens and fresh slaughter chickens are very different. You can eat it. "The flesh is soft and" soft "(soft), unlike the fresh chicken made" smooth and tight ".

Figure ｜ LU u

Some friends who eat diet also said that the ice chicken will have a certain amount of umami flavor, but in the sales session, the ice is circulating because of the unable to sell. Has been destroyed.

Use ice chicken to make white -cut chicken and beating stoves. For the picky tongue, the meat taste is not late after all; frozen chickens, people who know how to eat, will scoff, the meat taste is lost, and there is a taste of "snow collection". Essence

The diners are not easily captured by a fried chicken, and the restaurants do not easily perfunctory with ice chicken. Such a city may be the last place of "chicken flavor".

Figure 1 ｜ Big Shuang_ © 图 图

Figure 2 ｜ I like to eat fries very much ©

How to eat chicken to "chicken with chicken flavor"

Find a chicken, Cantonese is more cautious than Holmes

The fast -growing chicken grows too short, and the bones are soft and the flavor accumulated in the flesh is not enough. The old chicken grows for too long, then the meat is flew with firewood, and the taste is poor.

It is best to use a hen for four months to make white cut chickens. The flavor is initially used in scale, and the meat is firm and smooth.

There are many chicken activity, more muscle condensate, and more substances that can produce fragrance, especially fat droplets and more fat ingredients on cell membranes. Molecular, this is the chicken flavor.

Figure ｜ Big Food J 货

Yellow skin is not a pretty chicken standard, chicken skin is thick chicken feet

We all regard the yellow chicken skin as a sign of "pretty chicken", because the chickens are only eaten with enough lutein, and the chicken skin is yellow.

But there are many people who do business. They use gingerin to color the chicken, which is surprisingly yellow and does not fade. At this time, the smart old lady will look at the chicken skin: "The chicken skin is thick and the chicken is old."

Some people are afraid of the blood red with the chicken bones, thinking that it is the blood that is not cooked, but it is hemoglobin.

Let the chickens go in three in the soup with 90 degrees and the small soup with shrimp eyes. The chicken skin will form a protective layer to prevent the chicken from escaping; then soak the chicken, soak the chicken in the broth, and let the chicken inside the chicken. The temperature is controlled at 65 degrees. In the baked chicken, there will be a layer of jelly -like "blood red" in the bones, and the chicken entrance will be tight and juicy.

As soon as the temperature is exceeded, the hemoglobin in the chicken bone will solidify, the muscle tissue of the chicken will be tightened, the juice will be squeezed out, and the chicken you eat will become firewood and tough.

Figure ｜ ONCE on

Use ginger green onion to sublimate the chicken flavor

The soy sauce of a plate of ginger green onion dipped in sauce or shrimp is the soul of white -cut chicken.

Cut the ginger shallots into ginger and green onion, physical damage to their cell tissue, and stir with salt, let the salt be destroyed further, and release more sulfide. A spoonful of hot peanut oil is poured into the ginger green onion, and the sulfide sulfide is all hidden in the ginger onion, which has been released.

However, many restaurants, ginger green onions prepared early, and became cold when pouring oil to cooking. With such a plate of ginger green onion without soul, I think that Bai cut chicken will never agree before birth.

Figure 1, 2 ｜ Big Food J 图

Guangzhou now has a lot of charcoal chicken pots. Many of them have no charcoal, which are cooked by induction cookers; there are new chicken pots such as durian chicken and abalone chicken on the streets. But you always feel a little less.

Whenever I feel puzzled, you will recall that under the former Guangzhou banyan tree, the Mars in the charcoal furnace flashes, and the tender butter of the chicken floats in the pot, like the frozen lake that is blowing in the spring breeze. Then suddenly realized: "Oh, it turned out to be chicken and chicken."

When we were tamed by the chickens on the assembly line, we were just abandoned foods.

Please don't gently walk into the silent night without chicken flavor.

Figure 1, 2 ｜ livin Guangzhou ©

Reference materials:

1. Thousands of chickens 丨 Lin Weihui

2. "Eat Rivers and Lakes" 丨 Lin Weihui

3. The soy sauce chicken 丨 triple food

4. Use ice chicken to make white cut chicken? The concubine can't do it!丨 "Southern Metropolis Daily"

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