I haven’t visited the morning market, it is about Northeast China

Author:Authentic style Time:2022.08.29

In the morning of a Northeast child, it is likely to be awakened by a closing sound. Mother was carrying large and small plastic pockets, throwing on the ground, you turned over, sleeping eyes, but his heart rose warmth: Needless to say, this is the early morning market.

In the morning market, the gathering place of fireworks in the Northeast, the abundant paradise that young people are expected to reach, and the fantastic trading venue of the nationwide market with an ingredient. As a native Northeast, I said a ruthless saying here: I did n’t know the premature market when I came to the Northeast, but I was basically white.

The staple stalls on the morning market.

Photography/Qiu Huining

Regardless of the smoke of white snowfall at minus thirty degrees, or in the morning light that rolled down in the early summer, the morning market is always there, lively, jubilant, tenacious, reliable. Although you may not go to bed for a long time because you ca n’t get up, you may have been shopping for a long time, but as long as it still exists, a certain place in your heart will feel practical and happy.

That hot oil pan, a car -over -fruity melon, a bowl of tofu brain in a bowl in plastic sheds, a magic of unlimited cycle of magic in the big horn ... The hottest symbol is a dream of thousands of northeast people who wandered outside, and can no longer go back.

Elderly people who are popcorn in the morning market

Photography/Qiu Huining

It ’s not beneficial. Below, let us go into the booming smoke of the Northeast morning market and open it directly!

From north to south, from mountains to sea in the northeast morning market, I see the infinite abundance of the northeast

The Northeast is really big. Even if it is not counted as the "Northeast Cultural Circle" alliance in the eastern part of Inner Mongolia, only the three provinces of Heilongjiang, Jilin, and Liaoning have a area of nearly 800,000 square kilometers.

Jilin Province, a bazaar at the end of the vast field.

Photography/Qiu Huining

However, compared to the land that deposits complex historical memories and "different tones, different vulgarity" in the south, although the northeast is vast, in many aspects, it shows the rare and united and united and in the huge geographical span. Unite.

This is very intuitive in the Northeast morning market. From the northern part of the Daxinganling area to the southernmost Dalian, as long as there is a morning market, there must be the following things, without exception.

In the morning markets in the Northeast, some common goods. Figures/Jiuyang

So, what does it cause such a uniform look at the Northeast morning market?

First of all, this is due to the strong climate and physical nature of the Northeast.

You know, as the "main battlefield" of Siberia's high pressure and warm and wet sea breeze, the entire northeast is almost two powerful climate power, pulling out a long winter, clear seasons, and abundant precipitation.

Among the farmland covered by snow, small villages.

Photography/Fu Ding

The more consistent climate conditions, coupled with the fertile black land evenly scattered in the plains of the northeast, making the entire northeast ground very similar. In addition to suitable for planting a variety of basic grain crops, it is also suitable for planting special fruit vegetables with longer growth cycles and "slow work and fine work".

The colorful Liaoning morning market, fresh fruits and vegetables should be available.

Oil bean horn is the most typical example. This kind of bean horns are full and thick, rich in taste, and eat like meat, so the word "oil" is given. Now in July and August, it is when the oil bean horn is picked up. In the morning market in various places, you can see a woven basket in front of the old farmers, which is filled with the newly picked "Xiaoyuan Erjiao" in the garden. Buy it. Go home and stew some pork ribs, oily and fragrant, with endless aftertaste. Often no one asks the pork ribs, and the bean horns are soon lost.

Oil bean horn on the morning market.

Photography/Qiu Huining

It is not difficult to understand the similarities of products, but why does the hot food sold on the Northeast Morning Market on the Northeast Morning Market also keep so many similarities on the span of thousands of kilometers? This is due to the special population and social structure in the Northeast.

You know, after Manchu entered the customs, most of the northeast was banned by their "land of Longxing", and it was not until the middle and late Qing Dynasty that the ban was lifted. For about a hundred years, a large number of Shandong and Hebei people quickly scattered and filled all over the Northeast through the "breakthrough in the east", only to laid the basic appearance of the sizes of the northeast.

Dandong morning market mixing.

Photography/Liu Xiaoyang

In fact, if you carefully observe the food on the Northeast morning market, you will find a very interesting phenomenon:

Although the Northeast is the most important rice production area in China, pasta, pasta occupies an absolute advantage. Whether it is sugar cakes, buns, chives boxes, cake pie, fried cakes ... Northeast morning market has a good pasta and complicated tricks, but it is not lost to North China, which is mainly produced by wheat.

Eggburns in Hegang Morning City.

Photography/Hegang Ma Jianbin

This is actually a custom memory inherited from the Northeast people from the ancestors of the Northeast. Just as the Central Plains who moved south in history have developed a noodle tradition of the ancestors, and the Northeast people who have been domesticated by rice in family cooking have long retained the craftsmanship of their ancestors in the morning market. And taste.

The cold weather and rich products in the northeast have also evolved these noodle traditions from Shandong to "higher calories" (or more sweet). For example, the big pancakes in Shandong are tough as paper and tasteless, and can be used as military grain; the "Shandong Big Pancake" in the Northeast is sweet and soft; People send nicknames to sugar and oil mixed. Fried cake.

Photography/Magic Ranger, Figure/Figure Worm · Creative

But in contrast, the hard memory of the ancestors of the Gantong people in the black land was actually left in the morning market. For example, the sweet and delicious rice noodles and the thick and solid big porridge are all rough grain products that have been used in the difficulties in the difficulties. High -heat foods such as fried cakes bring the guilt of the morning market.

Bud rice noodles stick cakes.

As China's earliest railway, trains, the trains brought dense and frequent population flow to the internal northeast, further integrating the more consistent appearance of the Northeast morning market.

Many morning markets in Northeast cities are actually located in the "front" area around the train station. For example, no one knows how long it has been in that area. This kind of unique transportation also leads to a certain food, after a certain food, after a sudden fire in the morning market in a certain place, it will gradually spread along the railway line to the entire northeast.

For example, in my childhood, I witnessed my own eyes that a cylindrical Mongolian pies that originated in the morning market of Tieling area and grilled in special utensils, fire spoons, first appeared in the morning market in front of Jiamusi Station. A year later, he appeared in Hegang in the name of "Yang Tanghuo Spoon in front of Jiamusi Station". Presumably, the food customs on many morning markets are in the same form.

Specialties in the mountains and rivers in the northeast.

Design/Jiuyang

However, besides the high consistency, the vastness of the Northeast is also not to be ignored. Because of the special natural endowment, some places have more unique and unique products, which also makes the morning market there more distinctive.

The morning markets in various towns under the Xing'an Ridge and Changbai Mountain are undoubtedly the most worth mentioning. These three long and gentle mountains are covered with vast virgin forests. They are both mysterious and daunting, but also the generosity of nature. Since ancient times, the "Cai Shan" with strict organization and rules has inherited the taboos and skills of harmonious symbiosis with the mountains for generations, and continuously entered the forest and brought the treasures in the mountains to the world.

Mushrooms on the morning market at the foot of Daxing'an Ridge.

Photography/Huang Xuefeng

In addition to the snowy mountains in winter, in the morning market where various towns at the foot of the mountains, there will never be no shortage of dusty mountains. In the moist bark full of moss, wrapped in the newly collected forest ginseng, waiting for people who know the goods to pay a good price. Various colors of mushrooms, mountains and wild vegetables, birch savory, kidney tea, and various seasonal mountains are placed on the woven bags, some are expensive medicinal materials, and some are common ingredients or ingredients on the local people's dining tables ...

In the morning market, ginseng wrapped in wet bark.

Photography/Qiu Huining

Today, it is the "Red Head City" of Ginseng. When it is also Cai Songzi, the red pine seeds on the pine tower are full of oily, high nutrition, and luxurious nuts in the eyes of people outside the mountains. Snacks.

In Funyuan City, which is under the jurisdiction of Dongji and Heilongjiang Province in China, the morning market is also very distinctive. There is the intersection of the Wusili River, Songhua River and Heilongjiang. This water has abundant water volume, excellent water quality, and low water temperature. Therefore, many unique type of freshwater fish are produced. The ancient nation who lived on fishing as a living has lived in the Ussuri River Basin since ancient times, and has contributed a lot of fierce and novel fish cooking techniques.

Chakan Lake Winter Capture.

Photography/Qiu Huining

In the morning market in Funyuan, you can see dazzling fish. For example, the salmon that traveled to Heilongjiang's middle -class was intercepted by the fishermen in Heilongjiang, which became the most important specialty big Maha fish here; What I can buy today is already breeding ...

The delicious river fish "three flowers and five Luo" in the Songhua River water system is because the growth cycle is long and has a very sweet and firm meat quality. The head of the "Sanhua and Five Luo" is actually cold water catfish. The southern people only know that peach blossoms flow, but do not know the catfish in the bitter cold land of the northern country. Buy two to go home to stew some noodles. How delicious it tastes.

In the northeast, the fish in the winter market are frozen as hard as weapons.

Finally, as the most special and most pleasant city in the Northeast, Dandong's morning market has to be mentioned.

Dandong is both Linjiang and the sea. At the same time, it is the largest trade port on the border between China and North Korea. There are not only famous strawberries and various fruits in the country, but also rich in seafood. Right now, the autumn wind is bright. Dandong Huang Xunzi is about to land in the morning market. The yellow crickets on the ground are Jin Chancan and fat, sweet and full. If you are too lazy to go home and cook, there are also cooked rice meat that are peeled and filled with plastic boxes. Putting a large spoonful of yellow pork meat into my mouth at one time is one of the happiest moments I experienced in the Northeast.

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The yellow sister -in -law and various seafood on the Dandong morning market.

Photography/Liu Xiaoyang

Why don't you think it's early? Why think of the city? In the morning market, see the epitome of the social structure of the Northeast

In fact, many places in China have early markets. After all, in the end, in the final analysis, it is also born from the traditional Shandong Grand Collection. But the reason why it is eligible to be taken out is particularly emphasized that in addition to many local products that are not seen in other places, it is because of the specialties of specialties, the Northeast morning market has many interesting features that are different from foreign markets. The first characteristic of the Northeast morning market is early. Earlier to Dai Yue, it was so outrageous. The most extreme case is that in the summer and July, at 3:30 in the morning, the night porridge of the Cantonese may have just opened. Your Jiamusi has already got up and stacked with the bedding, ready to go to the morning market to kill the Quartet.

Town at the foot of Daxing'an Ridge.

Photography/Lu Wen

So why is the morning market so early? First of all, it is attributed to the catalysis of natural conditions.

Northeast China has the most ease and highest latitude in China. East, let the actual sunrise here earlier than Beijing time. The North, letting this day is short and night in winter, making people more cherish the precious sunshine time. In addition, in addition to a short summer, the temperature difference between the day and night in the northeast is generally large. It is cold at night, and you should try to go during the day. These objective situations died early to get up the time for the Northeast.

Jilin Morning Market.

Photography/Qiu Huining

The other reason for the early market is actually more important. That is: the countryside is not the main battlefield of the Northeast morning market, the city is.

In fact, whether in the Northeast metropolis such as Shenyang and Harbin, or ordinary northeast cities such as Hegang and Panjin, the early market will inevitably be entangled in the center of its city. Compared with the large sets or morning markets of other northeast cities, the morning market in the Northeast cities seems to be even more indispensable for this city.

The lively Northeast morning market.

This is a very interesting thing. It stands to reason that a long -established city will inevitably develop a relatively complete and modern marketing market. The mainstream of buying. The bazaar I have seen in the southern cities is also located in the urban -rural binding department, which will not invade the core area of the city at all.

However, we must know that many Northeast cities are industrial and mining cities with a very single industrial structure. For example, my hometown Hegang rises because of the development of modern coal mines. The history of its city is only over a hundred years. It is conceivable that this kind of settlement that has grown rapidly because of the rise of a certain industry, naturally lacks enough vibrant trade systems in the early days of its city life.

The morning city entangled on the streets of the town.

Similarly, in the surroundings of such emerging industrial and mining cities, they are also "new villages" composed of modern immigrants. Most of them are about 100 years (the "company" village under the jurisdiction of the agricultural reclamation system may be shorter). The shallow historical foundation allows these villages to depend on the strong dependence on surrounding cities in all aspects.

At this time, the morning market came into being. This kind of ancient bazaar tradition with the rustic and tenacious vitality has been quickly entangled in the core area of the city. The flow of population and supplies between urban and rural areas.

For example, when I was a child, many vendors were actually farmers on the suburbs. They took a few new fruit vegetables in the garden and took the commute train on the mine to the morning market and sold it. I bought some daily necessities, strolled around the city, and returned home at the commute train at night.

The railway transportation in the northeast region is very developed.

Photography/Wang Yan

Speaking of the topic of "early": You know, in the last century, cities like Hegang and a single pillar as a single pillar, almost all people in the whole city worked in the mining bureau units. Because they had to complete their purchase before work, the early market had to be set up before their unified work hours.

In fact, although the Northeast is now in the depression atmosphere for a long time, the morning market has always maintained its vitality. You know, even at the end of the last century, the workers who had to come down from public posts quickly transformed into a new small workshop owner and industrial and commercial in the city. City. It can be said that the morning market may be outside the barbecue restaurant in the evening, where the vitality of this land is most that can be felt.

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Scenery on the morning market.

Figure 1 Photography/Qiu Huining, Figure 2 Photography/Wang Yan

In today's social media, when talking about the Northeast Morning Market, a traffic password of Bai Ling is the "cheap".

How cheap is the Northeast morning market? Let's put it that, if you are just here to eat, come to five dollars, keep you full, ten dollars, keep you eat well, more than this number, please be responsible for your recklessness, after all, waste A good quality.

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Masterpiece is low in north and north.

Figure 1 Photography/Herman, Figure 2 Photography/Wang Yan

A bowl of tofu brain, a piece of fried cake, a piece of rice noodles with cakes, a leek box, a piece of meat pie eight cents, one egg burger two dollars, a bowl of sheep soup five dollars ... short video software The people on the top, with an extremely exaggerated expression and tone, stated this absurd truth. The audience in the south is amazed by this kind of cheapness that is nearly white, and on the other hand, it is even more amazing and the boom's refreshing and temperament: After all, in this business that is obviously not so profitable, these people seem to show their appearances. Too many happiness. Northeast people have the tradition of hovering in winter Chinese cabbage in autumn.

The picture shows farmers who enter the city to sell winter vegetables.

Photography/Qiu Huining

But this is the most valuable spiritual background of the Northeast people! In fact, sometimes, I will return to the morning market when I was a child in my dream. The people are full of sound, dew on the vegetable leaves, and the red bathtubs are jumping with live fish ... For me, the morning market The significance is not how rich the products are and how supportive things are, but under the light morning light, there are always a few vague but bright smiles. Even today, the brilliant smiles hovering in my memory are still giving me an infinite spiritual power to me, who is still in a foreign country.

Text | Big Donk

Text Edit | Wood Donk

Picture Edit | Nafu