Shenzhen cheongsam "Shou" artist has been focusing on sewing for nearly 30 years, so that traditional cheongsam will be rejuvenated

Author:Shenzhen Evening News Time:2022.08.24

The four -wire machine, drawing powder, sewing needle ... The small workbench is filled with a variety of sewing tools. The buttons of the sewing machine are worn yellow, and the paint pedal of the paint shows the traces of time. In Longhua Street, Longhua District, there are still several customized customized stores in the past silently adhering to the cheongsam craftsmanship.

Weng Xiaolian and her husband Pan Yong District's Shenghua Western service is one of them. Since the age of 17, Weng Xiaolian has nearly 30 years of experience in clothing making. She has been a sewing feeling she adhered to. In her hands, the traditional cheongsam shows a new machine and shows the style of the times.

▲ On August 16, Weng Xiaolian was ironing the cheongsam in Shenghua Yang's service store in Longhua District. Photo by a reporter from Shenzhen Evening News

Being a young age at your own expense, gaining growth in the drawings

Weng Xiaolian was from Wenzhou, Zhejiang. As early as the junior high school, he associated with the needle line. "New three years, three years of old three years, sewing supplement for another three years" is the memory of the people in the 1960s and 1970s. In that era, it can be supplemented as one of the characteristics of a clever girl. The 17 -year -old Weng Xiaolian paid a training fee of 200 yuan under the advice of his elders, and took a sewing machine into a local tailor shop in Wenzhou as an apprentice.

The master led the door and practiced the individual. Weng Xiaolian introduced that at the same time, there were more than 20 apprentices. In addition, the business in the store was busy. The tailor master could not take care of all people, and more actively explored by himself.

"From the beginning, it was a simple job of learning nail button and changing pants. The master did not teach the drawing drawings at most, and there were not many opportunities to participate in the complete clothing process." For Weng Xiaolian, making clothes is like an adventure, and the design drawing is designed. It's her map.

"At that time, I often stayed up late and worked. When I was sleepy, I would be tied to my fingers." Weng Xiaolian recalled. In the 4 -year apprenticeship life, she forgot how many times she had been picked up. During this period, she also met Pan Yong District, who was an apprentice. The two were like -minded and came together shortly after they became couples.

After the life of the apprenticeship, Weng Xiaolian mastered the basic clothes making skills and followed his brother to Shenzhen. "At first, it was made in the factory in the factory. There were many batches and a large amount of goods, which was completely different from the workload in the tailor shop." Weng Xiaolian said, "Later, my brother was reluctant to do this business again. Open a shop for your own. "

The husband and wife work together to be the "guarding" artist, and ingeniously cut out the clothes

Weng Xiaolian's shop is about 20 square meters, and the colorful and colorful cheongsam -like clothing at the door attracts passers -by to stop from time to time. Most areas in the store are occupied by various fabrics and machines, and one person can only allow one person to pass. There are more than 10 sets of suit clothes on the left wall, and dozens of colorful fabrics are displayed on the wall on the right. The workbench is filled with various sewing tools and costumes. The yellowed and wrinkled order paper revealed the traces of the years, and the wrinkled cassettes have witnessed the birth of countless cheongsam.

Tailoring, design, drawing, cutting ... to make a cheongsam, at least a dozen procedures are required. Due to the tedious taboos of tailoring, Weng Xiaolian and her husband can make two sets of cheongsam in one day. "I often work overtime in the evening when there are many orders in winter. I usually go home to take care of the child at 12 pm." Weng Xiaolian looked at the husband who bowed his head and cut his head.

However, the production of ready -to -wear does not mean that the work of the couple is over. In fact, many guests who come to customize cheongsam are very strict with the details of the clothes, and the repurchase is even more normal. "People who make clothes should not be afraid of disassembling. If they are not patient, the clothes are broken." Weng Xiaolian said.

Dozens of colorful cloth displayed in the store, Weng Xiaolian pointed at them. She introduced that in the summer, the soft and breathable cotton and linen were most popular with guests. The colorful sitrium fabrics, touching silky silk is close to mulberry silk, and the sales have always been good.

▲ On August 16th, in the Shenghua Yu store in Longhua District, Weng Xiaolian was selecting fabrics for customers. Photo by a reporter from Shenzhen Evening News

In the past 30 years, there are countless cheongsams made by Weng Xiaolian. Compared to the state of just opening a store, Weng Xiaolian admitted that fewer and fewer people have customized clothes in recent years, but the production expenses are not much worse than that of more than ten years ago, and many colleagues have switched to career. In the same period as her apprentices, only she was still engaged in this line.

"This kind of handmade work can't make much money. In addition to barely supporting the family, we can stick to more feelings." She said. When talking about whether there was a price increase, Weng Xiaolian shook his head and denied, saying that the price would only be adjusted because of the price increase. "Most of them are old customers who have come to many years. We know the cheongsam because of cheongsam.

The pace is constantly innovating, and the traditional cheongsam is renewed in her hands

Time is like an arrow. The foreign service stores on Longhua Park Road have become a witness of clothing fashion updates and changing cities. Faced with other customized shops on the same street, Weng Xiaolian did not have strong competition ideas. "We do this line, all inherit traditional craftsmanship, and we should let more people understand cheongsam culture." She said.

However, the problem of craftsmanship has always troubled Weng Xiaolian. She said that it took a long time to make clothes and less profit, and few people were willing to persist. There were several apprentices in the store, and they left after mastering the basic sewing skills.

The sewing machine sounded, and the 10 -day work period of a cheongsam finally entered the ending stage. After being satisfied, the customer claimed to thank you. Weng Xiaolian revealed that there have been many young girls who have patronized in the past two years. "The cheongsam can show the girl's body. If they make them dressed, I am also pleased." She laughed. In addition to the common cotton, linen and acetic acid fabrics that can be made in the store, there are also real silk and Xiangyun yae with better texture. If there is no favorite fabric, guests can also bring their own fabric processing. "Previously, some guests took the old cloth of the dowry decades to make clothes, and the clothes were not worn. It was more memorable." Weng Xiaolian introduced. Taking the old cloth as the carrier, the feelings of the clothing and dressing people have been sewn into the years.

In addition to adhering to, Weng Xiaolian is also constantly innovating and incorporating fresh blood to the traditional cheongsam. In Weng Xiaolian’s store, the reporter saw that there were two cheongsams of different models of the same color, one for the unprecedented small sleeve cheongsam. Due to the need to fit the body shape, the custom process is more tedious and complicated. Only tailoring needs to confirm more than 10 sizes. In addition, she changed her sleeve to a light lotus leaf sleeve. "Some guests feel that they are more comfortable and easy to raise their hands." She said.

Over time, the tailor industry gradually entered the deep alley of time. However, as the carrier of Chinese traditional culture, cheongsam is still rejuvenating in the process of Weng Xiaolian's needle -piercing. It is not only beautiful, but also in line with daily wear. "As long as the guests are proposed, we can do as much as possible. A beautiful cheongsam of the upper body is a vitality cheongsam." She said.

Shenzhen Evening News reporter Li Chao intern Zhang Ying

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