[Memory] Unforgettable kimchi ‖ Deng Siping
Author:Fang Zhi Sichuan Time:2022.08.16
Unforgettable kimchi
Deng Siping
Chew the root fragrance of the vegetables to become a large instrument
--Inscription
Sichuan people like to eat kimchi and call kimchi as meals. It seems that once the kimchi is missing during meals, they will eat or not even eat.
As the saying goes, "Mo Deya, still open to the attende." But if you really lack kimchi, the whole person's heart will suddenly feel that if you lose it, it seems like something worse.
Dongpo Kimchi (Picture Source: Sichuan Daily)
When I was young, my family was poor. It was difficult to eat a few times a year. Only by celebrating the New Year, the parents' birthday, or the guests at home can there be a chance. Every time I eat meat, the whole family is as happy as the New Year. Sitting around a eight immortal table, the scene is solemn and serious, and everyone's hearts are almost full of excitement, joy and excitement.
In the year, there are not many such opportunities. Everyone habitually calls meat to eat meat.
At that time, there was a lack of meat, but I ca n’t have no food when eating. Therefore, my family has marinated a lot of kimchi. In the bedroom where my parents live, next to a large wooden cabinet, along the foot of the white lime wall, there are more than ten large and small kimchi jars.
At that time, we did not call kimchi as kimchi, but called sauerkraut. I still don't understand so far, where so many small and small kimchi jar came from that year. Those jars are fired from pottery, some are golden, some are dark, and some are big belly. Some are small and exquisite, and they are like an extremely exquisite ancient pottery that just unearthed. Later, when I heard my parents chat, I said that some of these jars were added with the salary of saving money when they first joined the job in 1958. From this, it was more than ten years older than my age. Some of the parents went back to Yongxing Farm by the way in a place named rolling in Qu County.
Speaking of Qu County, I remember very deeply. I was called the Gate of the Men, and I have been there in the 1990s. Lime is produced here, and coal is produced in the large bamboo group dam not far from the roll. I often rent a car to these two places to pull lime and coal to the Yongxing field. The altar meat in large and small restaurants on the rolling field is very famous and is a local specialty. In a small pot of pottery, there are small pier and small pier of meat in the pot. In the soup, looming, the hot air was on the table, and the chopsticks were put on a piece. At that time, it was 35 yuan a altar, and the price was not cheap. When we went to roll the lime, we did not eat it often.
Qu County, Juyu Town (Photo Photo of Pengzhou Leisure, Picture Source: Sichuan Fangzhi Gallery)
Say back to the home, continue to talk about those things about kimchi.
In the 1980s and 1990s, my pickled kimchi was really dazzling. What impressed me the most was that when the red and spicy men were listed in the lunar calendar in June, parents would soak fifty or sixty pounds of huts in a large water tank at home. About a week, the beans were soaked and soft, and then from the large water tank. The inside was scooped out, and it was placed in a few large crickets. Then, in the middle of the house, put a few long stools and placed a large bamboo basket on the stool. Parents borrowed several small stone mills specializing in Hu Douban from the neighbor's house on the street.
It is a small stone mill, which is actually two round stone chips for cutting boards. There are about two fingers in each stone chip. Now that I want to come, the stone chip looks like a black meteorite that falls in the sky.
Then, parents arranged for the whole family to sit around the basket. The parents were responsible for grinding Hu Doudou, and our brothers and sisters were responsible for peeling Hu Dou. After all Hu Douban is peeled, the parents will bring a few rice sieves, pour all the peeled Hu Douban into the rice sieve, spread out very uniformly, bring it to the outside of the house, and in the fiery red flower big sun. Go down. After two or three days, I returned to the house and covered the tender green pumpkin leaves one by one on the dried Hu Douban, placed in a cool place in the house, waiting for Hu Douban mold (also known as "Xiangxiang ash").
About a week, the pumpkin leaves were opened, and I saw that the original white Hu Douban grew a layer of fluffy golden yellow thick "fragrant gray". Next, parents will go to the streets to buy a few red peppers on the street, carry them back to the river to clean, and then use the large barrels that pick water in the home to a rice house next to the Yongxing Bridge. The red pepper is made of bright red pepper sauce, and then picks it home, mixes the pepper sauce, the "fragrant gray" Hu Dou Douban, salt, ginger, garlic, pepper, pepper, etc. Cover a transparent brighter paper on the mouth of the altar, cover the altar cover, and then fill the water around the altar.
Fragrant gray Douser (Pengzhou Aid Sideline was taken in Xinghuo Town, Yingshan County, picture source: Sichuan Fangzhi Gallery)
About twenty days later, opened the altar, and the house was full of a refreshing fragrance. The kind of aroma is fragrant and rich, as mellow as old wines that have been in the cellar for many years, and like mint tea. It has a faint coolness.
When cooking at home, it will be placed with a bean sauce and fried dishes to be spicy and delicious. If you forget to put the Douban sauce, the fried dishes, eat it in your mouth, like chewing wax, it is tasteless, and the parents will scold others and even hit people. Douban (Pengzhou Aid Senior was taken in Shuangliu District, Chengdu, picture source: Sichuan Fangzhi Gallery)
I also found a small secret. The more the Douban sauce in the home was marinated in the jar, the color will gradually become dark. When I dig out the jar, the taste is very fragrant, and the fried dishes are more fragrant.
Time passed. Later, I knew that there was a place in Chengdu in Chengdu. There was a specialty in that place. It was very famous in the country, called Douxian Douban. It is often seen in the supermarket. It is used in a glass bottle to make a bottle of Douxian Douban Sauce, about three or four, and the price is about one or twenty yuan. I occasionally stir -fry with Douxian Douban, but the fried dishes never eat the scent of the kind of Douban sauce at home when I was a kid.
Douban, Pianxian (Pengzhou Senior was taken in Chengdu Sichuan cuisine Museum, picture source: Sichuan Fangzhi Gallery)
At that time, my family had to pickle sauerkraut all year round. When the vegetables come out, marinate the green vegetable shell. When cowpea comes out, pickled sour beans. When the four seasons comes out, they marinate the four seasons. As long as the vegetables in the soil are harvested, parents will marinate ginger, ginger, radish, cabbage, cucumber, garlic, garlic and other seasonal vegetables such as ginger, ginger, radish, cabbage, cucumber, garlic, garlic. Almost any vegetables in the ground will be washed and marinated directly into the jar. Therefore, even in the poor and pale years, my family's dining table did not lack a variety of kimchi all year round, or more accurately called sauerkraut.
Although our family rarely eats a few times a year, because there are a variety of kimchi in the family, every time we eat, we have never felt the poverty and bitterness of life. On the contrary They all ate very fragrant, gobbled, only felt the warmth and happiness of the home, and were more full of unlimited longing, confidence and hope for life.
Gu Shengxian said: Chew the root fragrance of vegetables to become a large instrument. For so many years, I have also participated in many banquets. The big fish and meat on the table also have no lack of mountains and sea flavors. After eating, I always feel that I still feel that the family often nourishes and supports the family. The kimchi at home is delicious.
In the slow chewing, I suddenly found that the best delicious dishes are not big fish, big meat, and mountains and sea flavors. Maybe the first kimchi should be promoted. The salty is moderate, the spleen is appetizing, the meaning is endless, and the people can keep looking back in the past difficulties in the past. In the years, people do not forget their original intentions, truly understand the true meaning of life, and understand the meaning of life. In life, you can only know how to cherish, know how to be grateful, can you move forward, and you can move forward ............
About the Author
Deng Siping, born in May 1974, from Peng'an County, Sichuan Province, graduated from Chinese language and literature in Southwest University. Members of the Chinese Prose Association, Deng Xiaoping's former residence exhibition hall, Pengan Safety Search, Pengan New Wubentwen, Sichuan Fangwang Search Editor. Since 1989, more than 400 literary works have been published in newspapers such as "China Teachers' Daily", "China Tourism News", "Young Writers", and Sichuan Daily. Various literature selection and primary and middle school students' language unit examination test papers. Among them, "Drunk Recalling Hometown Fragrance" was selected into Shanghai Jiaotong University published and edited and edited and compiled textbooks.
Source: Sichuan Provincial Local House Work Office
Author: Deng Siping (Peng'an County, Sichuan Province)
Picture: Fang Zhi Sichuan
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