Japanese fashion designer Sanzhai's life: conquer the world with a piece of cloth cut

Cover reporter Zhang Jie intern Zheng Hao

On August 9, 2022, the news of the 84 -year -old clothing designer Sanzhai died at home. Three houses, as designers' names, are well -known among Chinese consumers and even art lovers. Even if he has not bought the product he designed, the name of the three houses is often not unfamiliar.

A successful artist is often a symbol that is finally conveyed to the world. Sanzhai is a clothing designer with its own iconic design language. Just like when Kusama Miyama, she thought of her pumpkin. The name of the three houses in her life made people think of folds and cloth.

Sanzhai was born in Hiroshima City, Hiroshima Prefecture, Japan in 1938. He graduated from the Graphic Design Department of Tokyo University of Fine Arts in 1964. After graduating, he worked in Paris and New York. He returned to Tokyo in 1970, and then founded a personal brand of the same name. With its iconic fabric innovation, fold design, and a piece of cloth cutting to conquer the world, it forms a unique fashion philosophy of the three houses. He was regarded as "Sanjie" with Yamamoto Yaosi and Kawakamuchi and Kawaka Kawaka.

In the late 1980s, Sanzhai began to test a method of making a new type of pleated textile in his life. This weaving material not only made the wearer feel flexible and comfortable, but also made it easier to produce and maintain. This new type of technology is ultimately called Sanzhai folds (also known as lifelong folds). When making this kind of fabric, you need to cut and sewing the fabric first, then sandwiched into the paper layer, tightened and ironed, the folds were formed, and it would keep it.

From 1994 to 1999, the design work of the men's and women's brands in his life gave him the design work of the men's and the lady brand to his partner, Takizawa, and he took over to do a full -time research.

Three houses and one life picture

The first -class designer is often an artist who opens between material and spirit. Three houses are undoubtedly one of them. The design concept of the three houses is the simple and freeness of the "cloth" style. It is designed with no structural mode to get rid of the traditional Western modeling model, which also won the "master deconstruction master" for him. He pursues the unity of clothing, physical and thought, integrates Japanese traditional culture and international aesthetic trends, and promotes the advancement of design with the spirit of craftsmen.

Unlike the tradition of European clothing design, unlike the exaggerated body lines, different bumps of breast enhancement, and the three houses have a different approach in their lives, looking for the source of fashion vitality, and exploring the new clothing functions, decoration and forms from the perspective of Oriental clothing culture and philosophy. Essence Behind a piece of clothes contains countless confirmation and modifications, contains energy crafts, and there are a lot of time and techniques hidden behind the minimalist.

In 2015, a documentary "Three Houses Life: Born for Design", which focused on the life of the three houses, was released. In this film, you can learn many design concepts of Sanzhai's life. There are many three -house discourse in the film. "I always think that the space between the fabric and the body has created clothing." "I'm just showing different expression forms, and we don't pursue the trend." "Food affects the body and the clothing affects thoughts."

The information conveyed by this documentary also gives people a lot of inspiration: a person finds his own love and belief, and consistently digs and spreads, inherit and create. The meaning of one thing is transparent, and the significance is generated.

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