Sichuan cuisine comes early, relying on literati to bring good goods | Flavor the world

Have you found that whether "China on the Tip of the Tongue" ten years ago or today's "Flavor Earth", whether it is "Street Food Fighter" in South Korea or "Food Beautiful" in the United States, any food show cannot be turned around. Sichuan, people around the world know that Sichuan cuisine is delicious.

"Take a city into a city" to be broadcast on Tuesday, the destination is also Chengdu

There are so many delicious provinces in China. Why is Sichuan cuisine famous?

In the authoritative work of Professor Lan Yong, the director of the Institute of History and Geography of Southwest University, we have observed an interesting information line: from ancient times to the present, celebrities endorsed by Sichuan cuisine, more than other provinces to be jealous.

In 221 AD, Liu Bei became the emperor in Chengdu, established the Shu Kingdom, and invited Zhuge Liang to help govern the country.

This is an era of hegemony and frequent war. Facing the huge number of soldiers in the Shu country, solving eating is an important issue. In the Tang Dynasty Wei Xuan's "Liu Benke Kama Record" recorded a period of dialogue between Zhuge Liang to help the soldiers through a wild plant named Man Jing. At the end of the dialogue, Wei Xuan concluded, "The Shu people are now Hu Mangjing for Zhuge cuisine."

Vines

*Amy wong

Professor Lan Yong wrote that "Zhuge Cai" is the Sichuan people today mainly for pickled and raw purple carrot leaves and stems, but somehow later became synonymous with another plant "February Orchid".

In February Lan, also known as Zhuge Cai

*Species calendar

Fortunately, whether it is in February or purple carrots, Sichuan people are still eating today, and the name of Zhuge Cai has continued to this day. If you want to count the oldest celebrity endorsement in Sichuan cuisine, Zhuge Liang is his head.

In 759 AD, Du Fu, 47, came to Chengdu and built a home with the borrowed seedlings and bamboo.

Du Fu Caotang

*Photo | Niu Yong

This was the peak of the Li Tang dynasty. Taoism, the Taoist, was used as a national religion, as a national religion, and Chengdu was the birthplace of Taoism. Taoism not only affects the thoughts, but also affects the taste, so Du Fu wrote the most famous phrase "? There is no green rice, making me good in color."

Green essence rice, plant leaf juice dyed green and black rice. At that time, Taoism believed that this meal could be prolonged to live and return to the old age, so the reputation during the Tang and Song dynasties was quite famous. To this day, people are still eating, but they are more common in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Like Nanjing breakfast standard in the black rice in the oily bar, the practice is the blue essence rice of that year.

Meal

*Authentic style

By the way, the name of Du Fu's first poem was "Give Li Bai", and Li Bai was also a frequent visitor to Chengdu at that time. His phrase "Shu Road is difficult and difficult to go to the sky" is about the most famous endorsement of Chengdu (none). But compared to rough tea and light rice, Du Fu prefers the wine in Sichuan: "Shu wine is invincible, Jiangyu is beautiful."

According to Professor Lan Yong's survey, the development of Bashu wine industry during the Tang Dynasty, first, the product of the development of socioeconomic development to a certain degree, especially in the context of the agricultural economic development, the excess results of food crops. The development of the catering industry, especially the development of commercial catering, the prevalence of feasting, has also brought great promotion to the development of the wine industry.

The unearthed brick brick also shows the prosperity of the cooking skills at that time.

*"History of Chinese Sichuan cuisine"

However, the distillation method was not invented that year, so Du Fu Li Bai drank rice wine.

In 1037 AD, Su Shi was born in Meishan, Sichuan, and Sichuan cuisine's most famous spokesperson was finally born.

In "History of Chinese Sichuan cuisine", Professor Lan Yong first amended a historical error: Dongpo meat has nothing to do with Su Dongpo.

Modern Dongpo meat

"The Song Dynasty did not have any words of" Dongpo meat ". There were many dishes named after the east slopes in history, but most of them were interpreted by descendants after the Southern Song Dynasty.

The entire Song Dynasty was known as "Taro and rice" called "Jade", also known as "Dongpo Yushu" made of potato and rice. There are three types of tofu mentioned in the Southern Song Dynasty) and the Dongpo tofu mentioned in the Southern Song Dynasty. "

Emperor Empery Dongpo Ruki

*Chinese cooking magazine

The first appearance of the three words of Dongpo meat was the Ming Dynasty's note novel. Later generations gradually evolved the saying of Su Dongpo's creation of Dongpo meat along the content of the book.

The reason is that in the opinion of Professor Lan Yong, people are still the habit of celebrities attached to traditional dishes. Today, we may be more immune to Cixi and Qianlong brand Jiangnan cuisine, but because the record of Dongpo meat was recorded in the Ming Dynasty, the complexity of our judgment of authenticity was added.

Of course, Su Shi likes to eat: "My family is a kitchen, and the meat is 芼 芼", "cooking fried chicken", "cooking red with wine with vinegar in the bacon, tone of wine, sweet taste" ... Both of them are saying that they can do everything and love to do everything and love to eat everything.

Su Shi has also eaten bamboo rat

*Lao Guang's taste

Through his verses, we also indirectly learned about the rich natural resources of Sichuan at that time.

"Chengdu Plain is flat, rivers and rivers, humid climate, and fertile land. They have been rich in products since ancient times. Especially during the Warring States Period, Li Bing's father and son opened the capital Jiangyan, which provided good conditions for the construction of farmland water conservancy in Chengdu Plain. Agricultural development is far better than other regions.

The development of agriculture has also promoted the prosperity of business. Therefore, as early as the Han Dynasty, Chengdu City was the five major commercial cities in the country. "Professor Lan Yong concluded in the book," The richness of the products, the tradition of advocating the blessing and the relatively peaceful environment have developed the customs of the people here. "The Shu people on the Han Dynasty painted bricks and drinking pictures

*"History of Chinese Sichuan cuisine"

Zhuge Liang, Du Fu, Li Bai, Su Shi ... also became the most powerful spokesperson for Sichuan cuisine.

The spokesperson of Sichuan cuisine has the eternal praise, and there are also solid practical combatants. Li Yiren and Fu Xia are the representatives of the latter.

Li Yiren was a Chengdu writer during the Republic of China, and he was recording Chengdu in his life. His Dahe Novels Trilogy, "Dead Water", "Before the Storm" and "Big Wave", each of which is based on Chengdu as the background, affecting a generation of intellectuals including Bajin (also Chengdu).

"Dead Water Weili Lan" has been filmed many times as a TV series

In addition to the novel, he also published Chengdu Life Prose in the magazine. Later generations sorted out "Li Yanren's Said Chengdu", which almost completely recorded the clothing, food, housing and living in the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China.

For example, regarding Mapo Tofu, Li Yanren recorded, "At that time, it might be pork slices, tofu pieces, plus green onions, garlic, salt, and pepper stewed. ", Provided evidence for the original appearance of Mapo Tofu.

Especially Li Yiren discovered in his grandmother's house, and the record reflected in the text series "Old Account" of the funeral field menu between the Daoguang years and the Tongzhi of Xianfeng in 1862, which is simply the most important text record of the history of Sichuan cuisine. Without this record, there will be a large blank of Sichuan cuisine evolution testing.

There are also Fuxia, British, the most famous Sichuan cuisine propaganda ambassador in the world.

In the second season of "Flavor", we followed Fuxia, and in the past flavor world we also introduced her (poking). Thirty years ago, because of curiosity, she came to the Sichuan Academy of Tourism Academy to learn Sichuan cuisine production, and then used her delicate brush strokes and unique foreigners' perspectives. In 30 years, she tirelessly promoted Sichuan cuisine to the world.

From the "New York Times" and "Washington Post" to the explosive food documentary "Food Is Not Beautiful", under her text propaganda, Sichuan has become one of the most longing for the world's food food.

So there are so many delicious provinces in China. Why is Sichuan cuisine famous?

Looking at this "History of Chinese Sichuan cuisine", you will realize not only because there are countless natural resources here, but not only because of the prosperous business economy here, it has brought out extraordinary cooking skills, but also because it has been behaved in the past 2000 in the past 2000. There are talented people, and their respective coquettishness has never stopped.

Author: Mei Shanshan

Capture: flavor king

Head map: "Take a city into a city"

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