Fifty years of employment, Pan Gehui, a roasting master: Cantonese -style roasted waxy must be innovated and more inherited

From a child to the national team members who are struggling for the country, to the gold award winner of the National Cooking Competition's Personal Hot dishes, Pan Gehui, a roast master, has witnessed the development of Cantonese -style roasting for half a century.

This article is reproduced from the Red Kitchen Network (ID: hongchu66), the author: Liang Wenyuan.

From the small miscellaneous workers who followed the current in the Great era, to receiving Comrade Xiaoping's roast master; from the national team members who participated in the country to win the country, to the gold award winner of the national cooking contest ...

Pan Gehui, deputy chairman of the Culinary Association Roast Professional Committee, experts in roasting, and national vocational skills appraisal, can be said to have witnessed the development of Cantonese -style roasting for half a century.

△ Picture source: Red Kitchen Network Photo

Zhiqing Zhiqing returned to the city to be a small worker, and he was associated with roast wax

In 1972, the 20 -year -old Pan Gehui entered the fourth year in the mountains of Zhuhai Doumen. It coincided with the Guangzhou Service Bureau and the Food Service Company to recruit workers at the time, and chose Pan Gehui. So he returned to Guangzhou and became a small worker of the Guangzhou restaurant.

When he first entered the kitchen, the first job of Pan Gehui was rubbing coal. At that time, the condition of the back kitchen was limited. It was necessary to rub the coal powder into the yellow mud first, make it into a wet clay, and put it into the basket made of bamboo crickets. Use a car to push the kitchen and pour it into the coal pond. The work seems simple, but it is actually very hard. Not to mention rubbing, it is just that the coal pouring may be beaten by the loose bamboo crickets of the basket, and it is even more common to insert the spike.

"I still have coal points now, and I have grown into the meat for decades, just like tattoos."

After rubbing for more than half a year, the master of the back kitchen felt that although Pan Gehui was not tall, he was solid, so he arranged him to enter the noodle room. Soon after, Pan Gehui was tuned for miscellaneous, steaming lotus leaf rice, rice, steamed noodles, steamed fish, etc., and he had to steam the melon cup when he encountered a banquet.

"Say dozens of tables in a banquet, and put a maximum of three large winter melon cups in one drawer. Winter melon is high. Use two steamed cades to steam it. Land stacking. "

These tasks were repeated and tedious, but Pan Gehui did not think too much for survival, and could only passively accept various work arrangements.

The transition appears at the third year of the industry. In 1975, Pan Gehui, who performed well on weekdays, was recommended by the company to participate in the "527 Workers Amateur University" project organized by the company for cooking. Pan Gehui took a break at three hours after get off work at 2 noon until 5 pm to study at the North China Hotel near the city center.

△ Take photos of amateur universities. Picture source: respondent

At that time, the most powerful masters of the catering restaurants in Guangzhou were given to everyone. From theoretical knowledge to the practice of upper stoves, the cooking knowledge of Cantonese cuisine systematically taught everyone. And Pan Gehui also benefited a lot. In this year, he met the nobleman in his life -Chen Ming, the head of the teaching and research team of the then food service company.

△ From one left: Chen Ming, picture source: respondent confession

During the training and training, Huang He was about to retire at the time of Guangzhou Restaurant roasting stall. Chen Ming arranged Pan Gehui into the roasted waxy file and followed Huang He, Chen Xiang, and Chen Biao to learn the skills of Cantonese -style roast.

Master Chen Xiang is the front line of the kitchen and is mainly responsible for burning and having fumigation. Chen Biao is a cooked food and cutting ingredients. Following the two masters, Pan Gehui has mastered the complete roasting knowledge of "burning, halogen, immersion, smoking, and fighting".

If Chen Ming is the leader of Pan Gehui, Master Huang He and Chen Biao are the direct teaching teachers of his roasting skills, then Chen Xiang taught Pan Gehui what is roasting and kitchen morality.

At that time, the material was scarce. The master of that generation would always instruct the chefs to cherish every kind of ingredients, and the roasting was a kind of work that made the remaining corners of various kitchen, the internal organs of the animal, and other coarse materials. "Master Chen Xiang told us that all the ingredients can use roasting methods to obtain more seductive appetite. This is the core of Cantonese -style roasting."

△ Picture source: Red Kitchen Network Photo

In addition to cherishing food and using every kind of ingredients on hand, the cultivation of the chef's own kitchen is also the precious wealth that Chen Xiang taught to Pan Gehui.

"Now the kitchen has a camera. In the past, I could only rely on the chefs to consciously,‘ No one is seen at the time of making, and I know it ’s knowledgeable’. This is also Master Chen Xiang taught me the most simple professional ethics. ”

From passive learning to active knowledge, he has grown up quickly

In 1983, Guangzhou held the second famous cuisine exhibition. The chefs of various hotels and restaurants in the city made all the directors of the exhibition. Pan Gehui is not only one of the representatives of the Guangzhou restaurant, but also recommended by Chen Ming as a member of the "Manhan Quanshi" group of the food company.

At the exhibition, on the one hand, Pan Gehui was responsible for the roasted waxy platter in the "Manchu Man", and on the other hand, he needed to be responsible for the exhibition of Guangzhou Restaurant with several young masters.

△ Photo source: respondents' picture confession

"This exhibition can be said to be an excellent opportunity for growth. It gathered all the masters of Cantonese cuisine of Guangzhou at that time. Among them, it was a pity that there was no way to" steal "the skill of making dishes for Master Liang Pei. "

Pan Gehui remembers that Master Huang Zhenhua and the team of Guangzhou Restaurant made a table of dishes. Liang Pei can repeat the dishes of the booth in one night. Bright.

"Now there are many stores that will also show wax models, but they still see the true and false at a glance. The texture is too far away. Later The year has passed, and the times have changed. I don't know that it is still there. "The one -month exhibition allowed Pan Gehui to see the famous dishes of the restaurants in Guangzhou at that time. Do "fight" in roasting.

△ White orchids changed to potatoes. Picture source: respondent

"At that time, I met a lot of cattle people, and the old name of the old -fashioned master was well -known, which also inspired me to have a strong interest in cooking. I saw the master of Lixi holding the big mulberry knife (thin and narrow pieces of flesh knife) at the scene and changed the potato to change the potatoes to change the potato. The knife became white orchids, so after returning, I started to study carving by myself. Everyone who has never done it, I will do it. "

When he was young, Pan Gehui had a cheerful personality, liked communication, but also liked to learn to teach people. This personality not only helped him to many friends, but also consolidated the cooking knowledge he learned in his studies, and let him fall in love with the chef a little bit. This industry has changed from passive existence to active knowledge.

△ Photo source: respondents' picture confession

When Pan Gehui was making roasting, he found that he usually listened to the master how to cook, but the process of "fighting" is free. He can integrate his thoughts and creativity into the pictograph of the roast wax. In order to better "fight" the creative platter, Pan Gehui will leave what the dishes and how to set up the dishes and how to put it in the next night, which also laid a solid foundation for his future exchanges.

In 1984, Pan Gehui had grown into a roast master who was able to be alone. He was titled for second -level chefs. He also often participated in the Guangzhou Cantonese Master team of the Guangzhou Federation of Trade Unions and Chen Mingdi's team. A lot widen.

In the second year, Comrade Xiaoping went south to Guangzhou and stayed at the Pearl Island Hotel. Secretary Chen Ming once again organized a chef team to do a good job of catering services for him. The team was mainly the chefs of the Guangzhou Restaurant and Luoxi Restaurant. Pan Gehui was also one of the chefs participating. The reception lasts for more than 20 days, but the conditions of the Pearl Island Hotel are not as good as the Guangzhou restaurant and the kitchen equipment is simple. He must go to the Zhudao Hotel for preparations very early.

"According to the reason, we should stay in the hotel together to facilitate service and security work, but at that time, the Spring Festival, Comrade Xiaoping asked us to go home for the New Year, so we could get to get off work normally every day."

Pan Gehui still remembers that in the first day of the year, Comrade Xiaoping asked the secretary to take the wine to the kitchen on behalf of himself, drank a drink with everyone, expressed his gratitude, praised the Cantonese -style roasting, and also had a congratulatory New Year.

The reception of more than twenty days was unharmed. Comrade Xiaoping left the afternoon of Guangzhou to take a group photo on the afternoon of the day. From the director leaders to the leadership driver and the food service team, there was only a lack of snack masters.

"They went home after finishing the snack in the morning. At that time, they were inconvenient to contact. Later, I talked to them. Everyone was very sorry."

He participated in the glory of the country to participate in the country, and he is committed to promoting the Cantonese -style roasting

After the reform and opening up in 1990, all aspects of China, including cooking, urgently needed to communicate with external. The Chinese Culinary Association received an invitation from the Luxembourg World Cup Cooking Contest. At that time, the domestic cooking level and the most exchanges were Cantonese cuisine. So the Chinese Culinary Association entrusted the Guangzhou Food Service Company to organize a chef to form a Chinese cooking delegation to participate in the competition.

"We all think that since the representative of the country goes out, we must not be rude, and we must take a prize in any case."

Everyone is the first time to participate in the competition, and there is no experience, so there are many accidents. Pan Gehui said that the participating teams were all comes with their own materials. He also brought the brine used by the roast and the already marinated brine. As a result, he was asked to open the inspection what liquid was asked. In the end, because he was too hurried, the brine was leaked. Fortunately, he prepared more when he was preparing, which guaranteed the smoothness of the later game.

△ The kitchen industry is a strong cup. Photo source: respondent picture confession

At that time, the plane had not been directly reached. After several turns, the personal clothes of the team members were gone. "Fortunately, the cooking tools were not lost."

The day before arriving in Luxembourg to participate in the competition, the Chinese cooking delegation went to the hotel kitchen to practice to prepare for the next day. Personalized, he had to run back to the embassy with his memory, and then quietly returned to the hotel to prepare for the race.

The next day the game officially started. The rules of the competition are very simple. The cooking teams of various countries have two dishes each. The judges and the audience who bought tickets to enter the venue to score the voting together. In the end, the Chinese cooking team won the team gold medal with excellent dishes.

△ Take a photo with the Chairman of the World Kitchen Federation. Picture source: respondent

After that, Pan Gehui participated in the Olympic Cooking Competition for four years.

In 1992, the Olympic Cooking Contest was held in Germany. Although the Chinese Cooking Team did not win the championship this time, it also won the bronze medal.

However, the real challenge to Pan Gehui appeared after the game.

After the competition, Pan Gehui received a new task -to go to the local Chinese restaurant to promote and promote Cantonese -roasted pork culture. He went to find that it was very difficult. The restaurant did not have any utensils that could be burned. Not only did there not be pig pork for burning pigs, the barbecued pork -to -pork pins, but not even the firepower.

After thinking about it, Pan Gehui came up with countermeasures: the barbecued barbecued barbecued pins, then replaced it with chopsticks; the roast pigs had no pig fork, so they took the washed bamboo branches to replace the pig fork; The setting is cooked, and the surface color is given priority. It may be because the local mayor and the sheriffs and other foreign friends have not eaten a real Cantonese -style roasting. They found that they were very fragrant when they were found.

"If this is definitely not qualified in Guangzhou, it is just to make it. As a result, the other party rarely eats authentic. There is no comparison. The first time I feel very delicious. There are markets. "

If the participation of the country is competing for the country, then participating in the third national cooking contest in Wuhan is to rectify the name of burning.

In 1993, after the internal selection of Guangzhou Restaurant, Pan Gehui successfully became one of the participating chefs of the 3rd National Culinary Competition. Although it is a domestic competition, there are a lot of challenges.

Pan Gehui found that no professional furnaces could be used for pigs at the scene of the competition. Time was urgent, and Pan Gehui built a pork rack on the spot with the existing tools on his hand.

Many years of experience allowed him to use a professional furnace, and he could accurately grasp the heat of burning suckling pigs with the naked eye. However, it is not enough to compete with national cooking masters on the same stage.

Pan Gehui used the characteristics of skin water to write invisible blessings on the suckling pig. It was not until it was burned that a golden blessing character gradually appeared, named "Jinfu Mantang".

"This roast suckling pig has evolved in the creativity of the seniors of Daixi. The predecessor is burned out of the black dragon pattern. The overall looks very beautiful, but the dragon pattern is not seen when the knife is changed. Not good -looking, I burn the golden blessing in the way to reduce the proportion of sugar in crispy water, and it can be beautiful even on the cut. "

△ Photo source: respondents' picture confession

With this "Golden Fumantang", Pan Gehui defeated the top chefs of major cuisines across the country and won the gold medal of personal hot vegetables.

"Creativeness in the brain, it will also use the things they have learned flexibly, familiar with the characteristics of each ingredients processing and cooking, and the use of each knife method is the basis of creativity and innovation."

Cantonese roasting is constantly developing, and traditional craftsmanship needs to be passed on

In a blink of an eye, 50 years have passed. Today, after retirement, Pan Gehui was in full time. From time to time, he had a party with an old man in Guangzhou restaurants, or went out to communicate, or went out to visit the store.

He told the Red Kitchen Network that Cantonese -style roasting has been new for decades, but many traditional craftsmanship and dishes have also disappeared.

When going out to communicate, Pan Gehui found that in the past, many classic Cantonese -style roasting, such as melon sausage and osmanthus blossoms, it is difficult to see restaurant sales.

Pan Gehui personally thinks that although the product is rich, some innovation is biased. Cantonese cuisine pays attention to color fragrance. Essence

"In the final analysis, there is no innovation on the basis of tradition."

Pan Gehui does not oppose innovation. He believes that it is good to do some innovation in roasting. Because of social development and rich material, the research on eating is becoming more and more detailed.

"For example, there are only two types of pork roasted, there are only two types of fat fork and thin fork, but now the roasted master will be classified in a very detailed classification according to the different parts of the raw materials and the parts of the burning parts. It is called a bucket fork, and the pork belly is called the pork. Different ingredients and different methods will be divided into black hair pork pork roasted, crispy barbecued pork roasted, ravioli pork roasted (also known as the old lady barbecued pork roast). I think these innovations and changes are good of."

However, he also believes that innovation needs to be carried out on the basis of tradition, and chefs should understand those traditional techniques.

In order to better inherit the traditional roasting culture, Pan Gehui and other members of the other roasting professional committees will insist on assessing the past roasting craftsmanship and classic dishes when compiling textbooks and evaluation of the professional skills of the roasting division.

Pan Gehui told Red Kitchen Network that when he is admitted to high -end cooking technicians, especially when he is a senior roast master, he will definitely evaluate traditional classic roasting and pictographs that only appear at the banquet today.

"Although there are many traditional roasting disappears in the market, professional roast masters should do. I think that no matter the market is acceptable, chefs must know how traditional dishes are made. I won't be lost. "

Reporter's note:

After retiring in the past few years, Pan Gehui took out the boxes of the commemorative medal commemorative medals, "Hyun". Too many medals, he put the medal on the hat a little bit. When showing the Red Kitchen Network, he found a few drops, slightly regrettable.

Because this heavy hat is not only Pan Gehui's personal honor, but also not only the concentration of the kitchen career for decades, but also witnessed the development of Cantonese -style roasted for many years. (Author: Red Kitchen Network)

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