Sichuan cuisine world's private cabbage ceiling: unexpected light and elegant

In 2022, the Michelin Guide of Chengdu announced the first list. Samsung Restaurant was empty and only one restaurant won the two -star Michelin, which was Yizhong! Different from traditional Sichuan cuisine, Yizhong has no strong and gorgeous, large and spicy wild, and insists on the cooking concept of "fixing the flavor with soup, freezing with ingredients, and setting up auxiliary materials" to make a lighter and elegant private dish.

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Shanghai Yuzhi Lan Summer Menu

Coinciding with the new summer menu in Yizhong, we visited the only Yizhong branch in the country and the only Sichuan cuisine restaurant in Shanghai -Shanghai Yizhong Lan. After experiencing the summer menu just launched, listening to the chef Luo Qilong, and the story of Master Lan Guijun and the new menu.

In 1994, Master Luo Qilong entered Chengdu's traditional Sichuan cuisine Shufeng Garden to work as a teacher after work, 28 years ago. From 2005 to 2017, Luo Qilong served as chef chief in Huadu Hotel in Poland. The traditional Sichuan cuisine with traditional "marijuana is hot", boiled meat slices, fish flavor shredded pork, etc. are all the dishes that locals love.

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Master Luo Qilong is accepting our interview

In 2016, Master Lan invited Luo Qilong to take care of Shanghai Yizhi Lan. Master Lan said that Yu Zhilan needs to be calm and persistent. Master Lan valued Luo Qilong's peace and calmness, and persisted hard. Master Lan once said: "If Luo Qilong does not return, Yuli Lan will not open the branch."

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Master Luo Qilong is busy in the back kitchen

After deciding to return to China, Luo Qilong spent 1 year resigning (cultivating newcomers). After the successful opening of Shanghai Yuzhi Lan in 2018, it strictly implemented Master Lan's cooking requirements. The concept of inheriting Master Lan achieved the same as Chengdu Yizhong Lan. After one year of opening, Yizhong Lan Shanghai store obtained Shanghai Michelin.

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Master Lan is making pickles and phoenix claws

The name of Yizhong is derived from the name "orchid" and his wife (also the deputy chef of Chengdu Yizhong) in the name of the master Lan Guijun, which is one of the varieties of Chinese orchids. To eat the culinary philosophy of Yizhong, let's start with Master Lan's life story.

In 1985, Master Lan worked in Shufeng Garden in the traditional Sichuan restaurant in Chengdu. He was sent to Japan in 1992. In 1998, he served as the chief chef of the old Kanfan restaurant. The new, unique private Sichuan cuisine -Yizhong.

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Shanghai Yizhilan

Master Lan divides his life into three stages. The first stage is the "Flower World", and all kinds of cuisine and cooking techniques want to learn. The second stage is "rivers and lakes", and we must take partners and apprentices to go forward. The third stage is "calm life". After 40 years of age, Master Lan found that there must be art in spicy, and hemp must feel.

Master Lan said that there are only three flavors in the world: the taste of nature, the taste of fermentation, the taste of reconciliation, and the three flavors of the world are all the tastes of life. Therefore, after opening Yizhilan, he insisted that he only used the most basic salt, sugar, rapeseed oil, vinegar, soy sauce, and did not use any fresh agent, and he had to add zero addition.

Shanghai Yizhong's dishes are based on Master Lan's personal experience as the soul, which integrates these experiences and presents them in every cuisine.

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Crystal Matsutake and Cow

If Master Lan is the "soul" of Shanghai Yizhi Lan, then Luo Qilong is the "meat and bone" of Shanghai Yizhilan. Inheritance is by no means copying. The seven -point dishes in Shanghai Yizhong are the same as Chengdu. The remaining three points are Luo Qilong's performance in Shanghai.

In this year's menu, red oil crystal shrimp, boiled beef and other dishes come from the creativity of Luo Qilong and colleagues. Among them, boiled beef is a traditional Sichuan cuisine that Master Luo has made for more than ten years. These are not eaten in Chengdu Yizhong.

Dining at Yizhilan, you can feel a exciting "tongue symphony"! Adhering to the principles of "blindness, blindness and blindness, blindness", the whole menu from the prelude, the touches to the climax, the end, and the end to the blandness.

Huahua World (front dish)

The mood of this "flower world" at the beginning of the dish was integrated with each other. From the small small points to the panda box, each small disc is a completely different taste bud experience.

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Lotus bayberry ice powder and fried bean cake

The first one was served on the table was a small dotted lotus bayberry ice powder and fried bean cake. The plate was equipped with cucumber juice, bayberry ice powder and green bean cake.

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Lotus bayberry ice powder and fried bean cake

In the hot summer, a cup of sugar -free cucumber juice was instantly dissipated, and only refreshing in the mouth.

Ice powder is a special snack in Sichuan. It is paired with homemade bayberry sauce, which is elegant and not sweet. The green bean cakes that are now made are hot. It tastes rich in the scent of beans.

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Panda Box

After the meal, the dinner is the highlight of the previous food.

The box is made of golden nanmu. The panda pattern of the ceramic on the box is personally designed by Master Lan.

Panda 是 Box is composed of 6 different flavored appetizers. This summer's dishes are rose Yunnan bamboo shoots, roasted pepper non -heritage eggs, red oil crystal shrimp, pickled pepper phoenix claws, red soup beef tendon, sesame amber, sesame amber, sesame amber Peach kernel.

One dish and one style, hundreds of dishes and hundreds of flavors, from the lighter to the darkest dishes in the color, they are tasting one after another, blindly, and eat until the dishes with the heaviest flavor and completely open the taste buds. ▲

Rose Yunnan bamboo shoots

Rose Yunnan bamboo shoots are the most eye-catching place in the lunch box. The bamboo shoots are from sweet bamboo shoots that can be eaten raw in Pu'er in Yunnan. They only harvest for 3 months from July to October each year.

There are two cooked cooked in the small dish, two raws, and the fresh sweet bamboo shoots are intertwined with milk fragrance. As if eating coriander, the sweetness of the rose sugar water is endless. It is tender but more water spirit, don't have a taste.

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Muslocy -colored noodles

After the panda boxed, the muscles of the mussels in the clam of the mussels are colorful. Before you taste this dish, you should eat fresh chicken gangson. The teeth bite the full fresh chicken squeak, and the unique fresh sweetness and aroma burst in the mouth.

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Fresh chicken

Hand -up colorful noodles are composed of five kinds of ingredients: orange (sweet peppers), white (flour), yellow (pumpkin), green (kale) and pink (dragon fruit) as natural pigment.

Stir them with the traditional strange smell dipping juice in Sichuan. The sweet and sour at the entrance is mixed with the rich flavor of the hemp sauce. After chewing, the hemp and spicy spread in the mouth. The mussels are fresh and spicy. At the end of the entrance, the teeth can be happy at the same time.

Jianghu Yiqi (main cuisine)

The main dish partly expresses "the taste", which is consistent with the mood of the mood of the Master Lan in the age of Master Lan. Master Luo added his own understanding of this part of the dishes, and the taste was progressive. The latter was more surprising than the previous one.

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Matsutake Golden Silk Noodles

The beginning of the "taste" is the big knife and gold noodles that will definitely fall in love. The golden noodles of Yuzhi orchids are not added with a drop of water during the noodles. Hand -made at least two hours.

The soup is also where the soul of this golden face is. The soup is a great weapon for testing the chef's standard. The saying that the saying "the cavity of the opera, the chef's soup" refers to this meaning. The noodle soup uses the highest -level clear soup in Sichuan cuisine. It seems that the freshness of chickens, ducks, lean meat, and Jinhua ham is flattened in the tongue.

The golden silk on the summer menu is matched with the most tender Matsutake in the season. The soup base and the freshness of Matsutake are combined, like a delicious song, which is intoxicating. Before trying to try early, you need to start another spoonful of chopsticks to prevent skewers and noodles.

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Original shrimp frozen ointment sea urchin and Catgaga catfish sauce

Original shrimp frozen ointment sea urchin and Catgaga catfish sauce, the entrance is amazing. The shrimp at the intersection of the river and the sea of ​​Japan and the shrimp from Japan are made into shrimp baked and condensed into frozen. The shrimp frozen cream is less fishy and full of umami flavor.

In the mouth, the shrimp frozen paste and caviar quickly turned into salty soup in the mouth. After chewing, it was a natural nut aroma. "Directly" was the expression of the umami taste of this dish. It should be noted that after serving, you must eat as soon as possible. After taking the photo, the crisp cake will lose crispyness because of the moisture, and the taste will be affected.

The light and cool shrimp frost has a turning point in the upper and lower turning. After putting the well -known golden noodles, let the taste rest a little, and turn on the umami -rising climbing again.

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Catfish Gong White beef liver bacteria soil chicken soup

The cowona white beef liver bacteria soup, the seemingly strong soup base is the refreshing chicken soup after the entrance, the small spoon is amazing enough.

The unique aroma of the white beef liver is completely penetrated into the chicken soup. It was the freshness of the chicken soup in the early stage. The catfish is the most precious variety in the fish rubber market. It is thick and solid, strong and elastic.

Decorative carrots and lettuce are carved into a shape similar to "Chinese knot". Bettering with chopsticks can be combined into a complete square, which means "festival", which is quite interesting.

This dish is a new product of the season. After summer, you can't eat it. You must hurry up if you want to try something new.

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Crystal Matsutake and Cow

Another seasonal limit in the summer menu is fried matsutake and cattle. After simple frying, fast frying, rich codonic fatty, full of grabbing, Matsutake's scent and juice are firmly locked, with a little pepper powder to make the tip of the tongue shock.

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The original color of the original color of the sun

The original and original abalone is the most classic reserved dish of Yuzhilan. The taste can subvert your imagination of abalone rice.

The rich dark brown sauce is the essence of this dish. It is carefully stewed for more than 36 hours by chicken, shell pillars, black pork, ham and other ingredients. Finally, add Moutai to add incense. The flavor of the sauce, the fragrance of the meat, the fragrance of abalone, and the mellow aroma of the ham are progressing in turn.

The restaurant uses twenty auspicious dried abalone, and uses the culinary method of heart abalone. It tastes soft and glutinous and elastic. It is matched with the sauce.

The rice on the side is made of northeast pearl rice and glutinous rice. It is full of moisturizing, glutinous and grainy, which is very suitable for scraping abalone juice. In the end, the vegetables were closed when the vegetables were cleared, and abalone, rice, and vegetables, "reduced blindly", buckled from strong to flat ring.

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Chopped pepper Xiaoqinglong

The strong abalone juice had not completely dispersed in the mouth, and the chopped pepper was on the table.

The chopped pepper sauce is made by the restaurant itself. It is slightly spicy and non -greasy. Compared with the chopped pepper in the memory, the chopped pepper is more refreshing. At the beginning of the entrance, the shrimp was fresh and firmer. After a moment, the fresh spicy slightly sour pepper rushed to the mouth, and it felt smooth.

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Up: chopped pepper, small green dragon, below: clear mouth vegetable self -made hawthorn cake

After eating stimulation, it is time to let the tip of the tongue be bland, and the hawthorn cake made by Yuzhilan is very good. Slightly sour, with the freshness of hawthorn. If the chopped pepper is a storm, the hawthorn cake is the breeze of calming the storm.

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Boiled beef

When you think you want to start "blindly reduced", the tip of the tongue is once again brought to the peak of taste, and the beef was cooked on the table. The whole menu is now the only dish for Sichuan cuisine.

The seemingly hot water boiled beef will not feel too irritating after the entrance. The meat aroma and spicy oil aroma are intertwined, and the tongue is made of brushes. The beef is dotted with a little pepper powder.

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Fresh yellow flower chicken 鸡 bacteria

After the smoothness of the opening and the union, the senses need to gradually return to calmness, refreshing and greasy, and the bright yellow flower chicken bangs with a summer atmosphere were brought to the table.

Pick the fresh yellow flowers off the flowers, put it in boiling water, and burn it, with a faint aroma in the crispy refreshing, and with the umami -full chicken milogy, like the refreshing river wind in the summer.

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Fresh peach peach oil steamed official swallow

The last dish of the "rivers and lakes" session is dessert -Xian Peach Peach Oil Steamed Sanyan. This dish was packed in a tall lady bottle and asked the reason because Master Lan felt that the dishes had come to an end and kept bowing their heads to eat, and their vision and limbs would be tired.

In summer, the peach is sweet. The restaurant uses Wuxi Yang landscape peach. The fresh peach juice, the fragrant peach meat and the soft glutinous peach gum are placed in the blue and white container with the official swallow, and drank it. Performing physical and mental comfort.

The touches of taste buds from the initial peppermine to the last sweetness, and entered the most perfect ending.

Calm life (snack)

The last part of the menu expresses Master Lan's current state of mind- "calm life", no matter how the process is ups and downs, it will eventually return to bland.

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Red oil pine dumplings dumplings

Red oil dumplings are traditional Chengdu snacks. This combination of red oil pine dumplings that make mushrooms that make mushrooms look exquisite, dumpling skin is tough, and the dumplings are tight and tender.

As the ending snack, the spicy degree is not heavy. The red sauce is sweet, fresh, and slightly spicy, and it is fused with each other. The taste is bland and sweet, complex and balanced.

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Cooking fresh vegetables in mineral water

Finally, the mineral water is boiled in fresh vegetables. The peas and pumpkins stewed in mineral water are warm with a trace of warmth without any addition. It is pure like the tranquility after the heavy rain and life.

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Display in the tableware in Yuzhi Lanbao

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Custom tableware of Yizhilan

In 2007, Master Lang Guijun spent 2 years in Jingdezhen to learn porcelain practices. At present, all underglaze tableware in the restaurant is designed and produced by Master Lan himself. Each tableware has the exclusive mark of Yuzhilan.

The tableware of Yizhong is very suitable for the dishes because Master Lan completes the dishes, and then designed the tableware according to the dishes. Each dish put on the plate seems to be born.

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Meal wine

Yuzhi Lan's meal wine reflects the integration of integration everywhere. With different dishes, you can drink 6 different countries and different flavors of wine here. The apprentice of the internationally renowned sommelier master Lu Yang and Sun Xin, the apprentice of Mr. Lu Yang, a well -known international sommelier master, Sun Xin.

The clear golden face is also clean and pure sake, highlighting dry and clear. The fusion and complex abalone, combined with rice wine with complex characteristics to strengthen the fusion taste. The hot and sour vegetables stimulate the taste buds, with a white wine with the aroma of honeydew, the spicy taste brings the taste of the taste with a higher peak, which is addicted.

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After the meal is over, chef Luo Qilong is signed

When you carefully dismantle the package of Yizhong Lan, you will find that Master Lan not only uses his experience into the design of the dishes, but also integrates his life. In the youth, the flavors were uniform, and the ambitions were ambitious during the age. Now the return of the original ... a set of dishes, taste the taste of life.

Responsible editor: Hattie

Author: Phoebe

Photography: VC

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