Isn't the kitchen knife used to shoot garlic?It is used to shoot Michelin

According to archeological research, the Malacong Site and Shanxi Tao Temple site in China have unearthed stone -made stone knives with fixed shapes and functions. It has been more than 4,000 years ago and is in the Neolithic era.

The Chinese probably couldn't think of it. They used a kitchen knife for more than 4,000 years, but they were educated in 2022.

A while ago, some consumers patted garlic with Zhang Xiaoquan kitchen knife. I did not expect that the kitchen knife was broken directly, but the customer service's reply was "kitchen knife cannot shoot garlic."

For the Chinese, the garlic can be cut off. The first reaction must be the problem of the quality of this knife.

After unable to apologize for the pressure, some netizens found that this was not the first time Zhang Xiaoquan tried to educate users. A few months ago, General Manager Zhang Xiaoquan said in an interview: "It is wrong for you to cut vegetables for decades."

Why do Chinese people have learned for decades? This general manager is full of confidence -because Chef Michelin is not so cut:

All Michelin chefs are not cut like this. Why is the meat cut from chefs in Michelin and more transparent cucumber slices? It is because he has a fulcrum in front of him that is so cut, and his amplitude is small, so he cuts it thin and cut quickly, and you cut it slowly. Is it reasonable for brain supplement? What you want is this effect.

In order to let Chinese people learn "Michelin", they specially carried out different designs to carry out "consumer education".

This will not give everyone this. You say that the kitchen knife can't shoot garlic because of design and material problems, but also barely can say that consumers can buy other brands of kitchen knife, but you say that the Chinese people are not even cut vegetables. Study?

Zhang Xiaoquan was established in 1628. It took more than 4,000 years to use a knife for the Chinese. Now, I have to study Michelin from 1900?

1

In 2016, when the Michelin Guide landed in Shanghai, many media described this- "Michelin finally came."

The question is, how can a food guide get so much attention, not to mention the guide to a tire factory?

Speaking of which, the reason why Michelin began to compile Michelin Guide is really to sell tires, but the middle idea is really a bit around.

When Michelin brothers Edward and Andre were established in 1889, there were only less than 3,000 cars in France. Obviously, if you want to make money by selling tires at such a car, you are afraid that you will not enter the door to close the door without waiting for the business.

In the second year, the World Expo was held in Paris. This event attracted about 50 million people to visit, and the population of France was less than 40 million at that time.

Various new cars at the meeting let the brothers believe that more and more people will drive out to travel in the future. But for them, the market is not growing fast enough.

In order to increase the number of cars to sell more tires, Michelin has collected maps, gas stations, restaurants, hotels, and auto repair plants to collect information, and published the Michelin guide.

At the beginning, these booklets were issued for free, and it was 20 years. Until one day, Andre Michelin suddenly found that his elaborate booklet was actually used to pad the table legs. retail.

In fact, in the 18th century, a large number of tourism guidelines had appeared in Europe. At the time, the most famous was the two French people: Bridge Savalan and Grimo Drah Renier.

Savalan wrote a "Philosopher in the Kitchen" and believed that everything on the table should be a science. Grimo wrote the earliest restaurant guide "Lao Lao Nian Jian".

In the 19th century, European enthusiasts were no longer satisfied with the personal evaluation of gourmet people. They wanted more detailed scores and guidelines. Baedeker Guides.

Compared with his predecessors, the advantage of the Michelin Guide is that it can gradually expand its influence with the expansion of Michelin tires.

In 1907, as Michelin began to do business in other continents, their guidelines began to be issued in North Africa. Two years later, the English version of the guide was born, and Michelin changed from regional orientation to a more "international" tourist guide.

In 1920, Michelin Guide, which had stopped in the World War I, not only started charging, but also began to list restaurants based on vegetables and increase hotel guidelines.

By 1926, the Michelin Guide learned from the Murray Traveler's Handbook and the Bedakl Guide, and launched its own restaurant evaluation standard -Michelin Star. At the beginning, there were only stars or no stars. In 1931, it was changed to a three -star step mode.

It was only until 1936 that Michelin announced what was different between different standards:

One star: outstanding restaurant in the same category

Two stars: Kitchen is clever, worthwhile to go

Samsung: Outstanding cuisine, it is worth visiting

Of course, sometimes such a restaurant guide also plays an unexpected role.

When the Allied forces were preparing to land in Norman in 1944, they found that all the logos in France were tampered with or demolished, and the advance speed of the troops would definitely be greatly affected. After a wide range of research, the Allied Commander decided to India's 1939 version of the Michelin Guide, which was the latest version at the time, which included hundreds of detailed and latest urban street maps. At that time, many Allied soldiers held a Michelin guide in their hands, but they were not to find delicious restaurants.

After World War II, the Michelin Guide, which had already left France, has shrank back to France because of the influence of the war, which has greatly regressed compared to the previous influence.

In order to expand its influence, in 1955, Michelin also introduced "Bib Gourmand" to recommend high -quality food restaurants with high -quality foods. In 1956, Michelin re -settled in Italy, and in 1974, he resumed the British and Irish guidelines that had been suspended for more than 40 years.

It is not difficult to see that the Michelin Guide is not the pioneer of the gourmet guide, and it is difficult to say that it is the most professional food guide.

Compared with other guidelines, it has gradually obtained the influence of beyond other guidelines with the development of Michelin tires and the expansion of automotive culture, which is the best food guide to combine the industrial era.

The huge influence means power.

2

There have been studies and analysis of Michelin's influence on the restaurant in France: After becoming a Samsung restaurant, the revenue of the restaurant can increase by 20-30 %, the two-star restaurant increases by about 30-60 %, and the lower star restaurant increases by about 10-20 % Essence In the interview, the chef Qiao Lubin also said, "A Michelin star, your business can increase by 20%; 2, 40%; 3, 100%."

Therefore, the core reason for the pursuit of Michelin in the catering industry is very simple -to make more money.

Such experience is equally effective in China.

According to the Southern Daily, many restaurants in Guangzhou have increased significantly. A store manager said: On the night of the list of the list, the traffic of the restaurant increased, and the business on the weekend was even more popular. It started a long queue at five or six, much earlier than before.

On September 20, 2018, after the Shanghai Michelin Guide was released, the Ultraviolet restaurant was promoted from two stars to Samsung. The reservation of the next three months was almost full, and there was only a little vacancy in 4 days at the end of December.

In 2015, Michelin entered the second largest city of Denmark, Ourhus, and Ohos officially stated that in 2015, guests in the hotel increased by 17 %, becoming the largest number of tourists among 50 big cities. They believed that Michelin was the biggest contributor.

The immediate effect made the governments and tourism departments from all over the world very eye -catching.

In 2016, South Korean officials accused the South Korean Tourism Bureau offered to pay 2 billion won to Michelin in exchange for Michelin into South Korea.

In 2017, Michelin entered Thailand. The Thai Tourism Administration promised to provide it with a financial support of $ 4.4 million in order to "let food enthusiasts explore the cooking scene of Thailand, improve the image of Thai restaurants and promote economic development." In the eyes of Thailand's Tourism Administration, the sale is very cost -effective. They predict that the guide will "promote Thailand's per capita food expenditure by 10%."

These money is called "sponsorship" by both parties.

Although the Michelin Guide insisted that sponsorship will not affect the evaluation standards, nor will it allow more restaurants to be selected as star restaurants in these areas, but it cannot completely dispel the outside world's concerns or questioning.

However, the real "power" is reflected in another aspect -when more and more people accept such evaluation standards, it has a mandatory force to some extent.

Obtaining Michelin Star can bring more consumers, and the consequences of losing the stars often make it difficult for merchants to bear.

According to the "Irish Independence" report, when chef Kevin Thornton lost star rating at the restaurant at the Fitz William Hotel in Dublin, Ireland, the profit dropped by 76%, and eventually forced the restaurant to close in late October 2016 Essence

According to "New Yorkers" reports, each loss of a star means losing 25%of its turnover.

Those restaurants that have been evaluated by star -rated do not worry about it, but they are always worried about whether they will lose their rating.

In 2003, Bernard Loiseau, a famous French chef, committed suicide at home. French media suspected that suicide was related to Michelin's preparations to reduce his star.

Earlier, Luxo's wife said in the official letter to Michelin: "We have already understood your warning well. From now on, the kitchen is doing everything to reverse the situation as soon as possible."

Three months later, Lvasso shot a shot at his head ...

For many chefs and restaurants, Michelin scores have become an invincible supervisor.

In September 2017, the famous chef, Sebastien Bras, announced the abandonment of the Michelin star because he felt "huge pressure" under the judge of the food reviewer, and he didn't want to cook it again. In an interview, he said: "Every dish made by it may be judged. This means that each of the 500 meals from the kitchen every day may be tried."

Blas is not the first chef to give up Michelin -starred.

In 2005, Alain Sendens closed his Samsung restaurant "Art Nouveau Paris" because he didn't want to take care of those "stubbornness." Danish chef Rene Redzepi announced that he had gained abandonment after winning the Michelin two -star rating and closed his restaurant. 3

In addition to unnecessary pressure and evaluation, many people are not convinced about Michelin's evaluation methods and standards.

In November 2019, Korean chef EO Yun-Gwon sued Michelin in the Central Supervision Department of the Central Region of Seoul, and the crime was "public insult."

He opened a Italian restaurant named Ristorante EO in Jiangnan District, Seoul, and was rated as a star restaurant by Michelin in 2017 and 2018. He was picked in 2019, but he was still in the recommendation list.

When he was rated as a star restaurant in 2017, he asked Michelin to email to delete his recommendation, but he did not succeed.

When his restaurant's name appeared in the Michelin Guide again, Yin Yunquan couldn't stand it: "I have filed a criminal lawsuit against the Michelin Guide, accusing him of violating the restaurant's wishes to forcibly include the restaurant in the food guide, and there is no clear criterion."

Here I have to mention how Michelin rated the restaurant.

According to Michelin, their rating depends on anonymous food detectives. These detectives are basically graduated from famous school hotel management or cooking schools, and have 5-10 years of experience in the catering industry. From the outside, they cannot distinguish these detectives from ordinary customers. They are like everyone who eats and leaves their own accounts and then leave.

In Yin Yunquan's opinion, these detectives are just like ghosts, "include my restaurant EO into this bad book is an insult to EO members and fans. They are like a ghost. Contact. Although I have explicitly rejected, they still include my restaurant as a guide this year. "

Michelin claims that these detectives will conduct unified training, and the evaluation standards include 5 aspects: food, cooking skills, taste fusion, creativity displayed in dishes, and the continuous stability of the dishes.

But in the eyes of Yin Yunquan, this basically equal to nothing: "You must not relax for a moment. Waiting for a test that you don't know when you will come. What they commented on, and when I asked Michelin's official, I couldn't get any answers. "

Relying on dozens of food detectors to judge the food around the world, it is impossible to get rid of it. Pascal Remy, who had worked in Michelin, broke the news that in 2002 and 2003, Michelin only hired five detectives to review more than 10,000 restaurants in France.

For humans, food is simply the most complicated, most difficult, and most impossible topic. Even in the base camp of Michelin, they are suffering more and more questioning.

In January 2019, a veteran Samsung restaurant in France was reduced by a star. The irritable restaurant chef, Villa, immediately began a variety of elegant words: "The judges are all mediocre talents", "I don't want to be more than thirty The lesson of the age of the director "," the new young director has never been checked "...

Not only that, he also raised that key question: "Why does the Michelin Guide who is not competent have such great power?"

Such a controversy was more intense when Michelin left Europe, trying to enter Asia.

Although the Thai government spent a lot of money to invite Michelin, the Thai people did not recognize the account. A Thai blogger deny the value of the guide very directly: "Frankly speaking, as a person living in Bangkok, I think it is meaningless to guide this book as a food guidance, although it may be insufficient tourists with insufficient time. it works."

In order to explain how unreliable the guide is, he added another sentence: "When talking about a book about the French company about Thai food, so, unless I have some solid knowledge, I dare not dare to dare to Evaluate Chinese food. "

Therefore, when Michelin began to publish a guide in mainland China in 2016, every time the results were disclosed, it would basically cause a burst of laughter and angry protests. The opinions of the masses summarized a sentence -Michelin did not understand Chinese food.

The British Fuxia went to Sichuan University in 1994. For many years of Chinese life, she has made her a authentic Sichuan chef, and has published books about Chinese food such as "Fascinating Fascini and Pepper" and "Sichuan cuisine".

In an interview, the British who "do not understand Western food" commented that Michelin entered China:

Michelin's judging method is not suitable for Chinese food culture. I have previously interviewed the person in charge of Michelin to learn about Michelin's review process. Their approach is that there is only one person to evaluate the dishes every time. You can think about what can you eat if you go to the Sichuan restaurant? Because China is a feeding system, it is not a meal system. It is really interesting to go to the Sichuan restaurant ...

... I completely opposed Chinese restaurants and chefs because of Michelin's review method, and changed the dietary method of ingredients. You have a very good food culture, which does not need to be changed. It is not that the meal is not good, but that you must follow the Chinese way of eating and tradition. Many Chinese chefs told me that because Chinese food was not admitted by Michelin, they were sad and felt their own problem. On the contrary, it is not your problem, but their problem. Of course, this does not mean that the Michelin Guide has no value. But it is essentially the same as all other lists. It is just an ordinary guide, and has always faced various controversy and opposition. It is far from the culinary golden science law, and it does not mean that the "advanced" food culture.

At the same time, Michelin's success may have extra factor, just like Professor Patrick Young, an expert in French historical experts, said: "Single glasses, cigars, and its waist are all symbols of leisurely middle -class men. Michelin commented on The star system makes the standards of the Paris metropolis become the standard of cultural value in France and the world. "

This image or added value is probably the reason why many people pursue Michelin.

But in the eyes of ordinary people who just want to eat well, these values ​​are about zero. It is exempted by holding the French "upper layer" standard to ask the Chinese people.

What's more, Chef Michelin himself did not Titamilin's sword himself, let alone say nothing.

Reference materials:

New Weekly: "Michelin: A game of a kitchen drama"

Eater: "The High Price of a Michelin Guide"

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Mashed: "The Untold Truth of the Michelin Guide"

Hu Wenyan: "Anti -Construction System in the Kitchen, Century Crisis of the 120 -year -old Michelin Guide"

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