Zhang Ailing's dressing ｜ Shenzhen -Hong Kong Book Review · Xiangdao Fanhua

Understanding Zhang Ailing, if it is obviously not enough to read her novel, you need to understand the beauty she understands. Through Zhang Ailing's knowledge of fashion and dressing, a diverse Zhang Ailing.

"Nei Word · Zhang Ailing" (adding version)

Tao Fang Xuan

Lu Mei illustration

Sanlian Bookstore (Hong Kong) Co., Ltd.

January 2022

Earlier this year, "Nei Chang · Zhang Ailing" released the traditional version and added some of the books. This book selects Zhang Ailing's own clothes in the pen, to analyze Zhang Ailing's enthusiasm and attachment to clothing, Zhang Ailing's shocking aesthetic and life outlook of Zhang Ailing It also discussed the people around Zhang Ailing and Zhang Ailing, and also evaluated the clothes in Zhang's movies filmed by Li An, Wang Jiawei, Guan Jinpeng, Xu Anhua and other films. The newly ordered chapter sorted out the origin and development of Zhang Ailing's favorite cheongsam. The delicate rhetoric and exquisite illustrations of this book complement each other, which also increases the reader's aesthetic imagination of Zhang Ailing's neon Hua clothes, and thereby revealing Zhang Ailing's inner world.

Every time I read "Monology", see Zhang Ailing's text, or more accurate, she will miss my three sisters who died early.

As early as we were in my tens, when we were in junior high school, the third sister took the lead in promoting Zhang Ailing's work to me. At the beginning, her novels failed to impress my heart, until I accidentally opened the short story "Monology" in the early version of the Crown Early version of the three sisters.

In my ten -year -old, I am interested in fashion and different pursuit of dressing. I am ten times stronger than I am working as a designer in the fashion industry. Fortunately, the emotional emotional emotions in the text when they read the texts of "Monoming" were not degraded. Today, the authors, reporters or editors who wrote or even full -time fashion text in Chinese ... Sorry, no one can surpass the level of Zhang Ailing in the 1940s!

▲ "I Love Neon" Lu Mei Painting

Several main characters that affect her views on clothes

In the past, although most Chinese people did not contact fashion, "clothes" must be worn every day. There is always a set of experience?

The number of Chinese people who have contacted and have universal fashion today, and they must be the largest consumer group in the world in the near future to buy international brands in the world. To show face, as if Zhang Ailing laughed at the Clothes-Crazy of "Psychological Infinitration" in "Comparison". Today, the fashion text written by the attitude of cultural and living with large brand advertising sales is that there is no high level, at least the readability cannot surpass "Monology".

"... Ancient Chinese fashion designers didn't seem to know whether a woman was not an Grand View Garden. Too many stacks made interests unimportant. The history of our fashion, which is the gradual subtraction of these embellishments ... "

Because of this paragraph, the teenager's eyes were shining: the original clothes can be depicted like this, and the experience of writing clothes or life to the highest state is to decrease from the flowers of the upstart. In the end, the Daoist walked towards Simplicity -simple light avenue.

There are several main characters that affect Zhang Ailing's view of clothes: wrapped their feet but put it again. In the future, she pursues the freedom of new women and divorces her mother to visit Europe. "Therefore, the stepmother of the old clothes (most Chinese, cheongsam); her grandmother, the daughter of the famous Li Hongzhang, and many officials and relics of the official family; she was a close friend of Hong Kong University, and she was a good friend of China and India. She opened the door of an alien emotions away from the ancestor of Shanghai, and the impact of the appearance and atmosphere of the Huayang mixed place in Hong Kong (this also affected Zhang Qinhi's novels, with many backgrounds and heard by Hong Kong).

▲ "I Love Neon" Lu Mei Painting

Seventy years ago, what was the avant -garde?

Zhang Ailing himself criticized his clothes from the perspective of modern fashion pursuit. He believed that the score was not high, but he was also a good player with avant -garde gall. In "Control", she repeatedly reviewed the "... Guangdong Tibu bought in Hong Kong after the war, the most thorny purpose of the rose red with pink flowers, tender yellow and green leaves. "... Bringing back to Shanghai for clothes, thinking that the folk art after the preservation of the robbery seems to be wearing the famous paintings in the museum everywhere, and it is all over the body, regardless of the perception of others ..." This "avant -garde", plus Shang and Yan Sakura took a lot of photos and left a lot of later generations. I believe that Zhang had been excited for a long youth for "different".

In the "Fashion" photos of "Control", the most interesting thing is that in 1943, a garden tour and a movie star Li Xianglan (Yamaguchi Shiko) took the clothes left by her grandmother, although "Chen Si Such as rotten grass ", but the tailor also took it" without frowning ". According to the design of Yan Ying cherry blossoms, the" beige thin silk sprinkled on the ink dots, hiding the dark purple phoenix, very painted ... " The unique clothing, almost 70 years ago, is not avant -garde?

▲ "I Love Neon" Lu Mei Painting

Why become Clothes-Crazy

In 1955, Zhang Ailing left Hong Kong before going to the United States. In 1954, "Song Qi's wife Wenmei accompanied me to a photo studio in the corner of the street. The signature and date of the Lanxin Zhao Xiang Shizhen Pavilion in this photo just happened to be thirty years ago. The cheongsam -shaped small upper shirts are graceful, and everyone is shocked to see it. After the death, Crown Publishing House has borrowed photos to cover the Hong Kong "Outside" magazine. Many fans snapped up treasures. One molecule. Zhang's mother took the small foot behind the famous door and replaced her three -inch golden lotus into the European fashion of CHANEL in the 1920s and 1930s. Of course, another box of boxing of the box brings a lot of inspiration to Zhang Ailing, but the psychological influence is not as good as her parents' stepmother after divorce. Zhang Ru said in "Comparison": "... I wear my stepmother's old clothes. She heard that I was not far from her figure before passing the door. It is said that her cheongsam is very good ', but some necklines have been worn ... "" But I have caused a special psychology because of the stepmother's gifts, so that then Clothes-Crazy )). "

Author: Deng Dazhi

(The author is a famous fashion designer in Hong Kong)

Source ｜ Jingbao APP

Edit: Chen Zhangwei

- END -