The case is called!Seamless Tianyi, weaved like this!
Author:Jiangsu News Time:2022.09.24
In ancient times, "Jin" was the highest level of silk fabrics. Today, Nanjing Yunjin is still known as "Oriental Treasures" and "China One". "All greats are created by both hands." Dream Blue handmade class presented "Handup Handwork". Today, Zhou Shuangxi, a national non -genetic inheritor of Yunjin, to understand the secrets of Yun Jin's inheritance in 1600.
A journey through 1600 -year -old inheritance
Fine silk thread
In the hands of craftsman's hands
After the experience of precipitation and rejuvenation
At the age of 18, with ignorance, Zhou Shuangxi stood beside the Dahua Tower for the first time, opening a boring and difficult road to study art.
Nanjing Yunjin Institute Nanjing Yunjin national non -genetic inheritor Zhou Shuangxi:
"When I first came to school, the master would not give you the machine. He depends on whether you can calm down, sit in this place, give you two very thin silk, sit there to knot, knotting knots, knotting knots He doesn't look at you, two screw hats are tied on the silk, putting a broken ground dustpan on the other side, and a broken basin on the other side. arrive.
In 1978, Zhou Shuangxi began to participate in the duplication task of the Lingling's indigenous silk fabric.
In the old days, Yun Jin was the royal royal supplies. Taking this Ming Wanli Emperor's golden lining fold robe replica as an example: the red spirit immortal wishes of the life, weave 540 fairy cranes, 540 ganoderma, 1045 golden kaishou characters, 18 colorful dragons, only longevity, only longevity, only longevity, only life, only life, only life, only life, only life, only life, only life, only life, only life, only life, only longevity, only longevity, only longevity. The golden line used in the word is 4000 meters long. The complex pattern is just the tip of the iceberg that woven the dragon robe.
Nanjing Yunjin Institute Nanjing Yunjin national non -genetic inheritor Zhou Shuangxi:
"The emperor's clothes are called Tianyi. Seamlessly seamlessly sewn, but the patterns must be spliced and complete."
For several years, a dragon robe will be woven for several years, and the silk thread will be stretched with the four seasons and the temperature changes. In order to achieve the effect of "seamless sky", the computer room must be fully closed, the fire cannot be caused in winter, and the summer cannot be blowing. Yunjin's process is complicated, and to this day, it is still made of handmade.
A Yunjin work starts with pattern design. There are many materials for Yunjin, rich in content. Each pattern must be "interested in the picture, and the meaning must be auspicious."
The designed pattern patterns must be transformed into the craftsmanship of the weft and weft, which is also the craftsmanship picture.
After pixel painting, the pattern is decomposed into a point, which is connected from the point to line, and then forms a color block. The difficulty of the Italian craftsman is full of flowers, many color, and large specifications. A pixel point that needs to be drawn in a piece of Yunjin products may reach tens of millions of pixels, and there are countless days and nights that need to consume countless craftsmen.
After the Italian craftsmanship was completed, it began to prepare for weaving. First, pass the color -dyed silk thread through the Ba Fan, and then fix it on the menstrual rake. This process is called Guan Jing. The diameter of a silk thread is only one -sixth of the hair. A 50 -centimeter -wide work requires more than 10,000 rodes. For ordinary people, it is difficult to distinguish with the naked eye with fine silk threads, but craftsmen can make them clear.
The strictly discharged silk thread is fixed on the weaving machine by wearing comprehensive. With the cooperation of the three, the 10,000 lines need to be worn for nine days, and there is a little error, so they are abandoned before.
While processing the meridians, the steps of setting weft are also carried out simultaneously, called "picking flowers". This is more like programming. According to the artisan map, use the flower hook to pick out the color part, and the color part is empty. Subsequently, the flowers were placed on the weaving machine, as if inserting the U disk into the computer for reading data.
At this time, Yunjin weaving was officially started. The two craftsmen cooperate with each other, and the named Tihua workers sitting on it, dragging the meridians according to the flower book to form the tattoo opening; the weaving workers are sitting below, responsible for introducing various weft lines, weaving 5 to 6 cm.
Nanjing Yunjin Institute Nanjing Yunjin national non -genetic inheritor Zhou Shuangxi:
"The rhythm must be mastered, don't mention it, people are not ready, and the two people are not cooperating. Therefore, the master of Lao Tihua, the two of them basically don't speak, don't look at him unhappy, but it is very alive. "
A latitude requires three types of latitudes.
Ship shuttle, which is used to introduce the local weft silk
Nanjing Yunjin Institute Nanjing Yunjin national non -genetic inheritor Zhou Shuangxi:
"At first, I fell down as soon as I fell, or the wrist was not good, and the silk broke the silk as soon as I fell."
Shoju knife, used to introduce gold threads
Nanjing Yunjin Institute Nanjing Yunjin national non -genetic inheritor Zhou Shuangxi:
"The golden line is facing the back, and there is no side on one side. When the golden line is introduced, it is defective on the front. Then use a needle to dial the gold thread, so you must be careful, so you must be careful."
Over -tube, it is on the golden line of opening
Weaving in other colors of silk thread
Nanjing Yunjin Institute Nanjing Yunjin national non -genetic inheritor Zhou Shuangxi:
"The requirements of the over pipe are not too much. One tube is in the blank place.
After all the latitudes are completed, the weaving worker pulls off the buckle frame and tighten the weft line, which means that a weaving line is woven. This process is called "beating". The intensity of latitude also determines whether the finished product of Yunjin is perfect.
Nanjing Yunjin Institute Nanjing Yunjin national non -genetic inheritor Zhou Shuangxi:
"If you are not allowed, or if you are flat, it will be disabled. Sometimes when weaved, it is not well knitted to weave, and sometimes it can be woven into ellipse."
In order to highlight the luxury of Yunjin, the silk thread made of precious materials is often added during the weaving process, which also makes the finished product more dazzling.
Disposal the wisdom of the ancients and the past thousands of years. Today, a generation of Yunjin people constantly try to integrate ancient skills into the pulse of the times.
Crossing time and space
Inherit the past and create the future
Jiangsu Satellite TV "News Eye"
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Reporter of Jiangsu Radio and Television Finance Media News Center | Yang Wen Sang Yusheng Guo Yanfeng
Edit | Tao Tao
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