Weekend Social Science Lecture Hall 丨 Crown Confucian Elegant Song Menghua -Listen Song Yun (59)

Zhejiang Provincial Social Sciences Federation, Hangzhou Shangcheng District Social Sciences Federation and FM105.4 West Lake Voice launched the "Listen to Song Yun" program, telling Song Yun culture.

The two Song civilizations have its unique charm in Chinese history. Mr. Chen Yinke, Master Shi Xue, pointed out: "The culture of the Huaxia nation has a thousand years of evolution, which is extremely popular in the world of Zhao and Song." Taste the wonderful Chinese culture, whether it is the glorious glorious material world, or the aesthetic interest of the spiritual world. Song culture always makes people feel deep. Let's follow "Listen to Song Yun" and look back at the two Song civilizations and taste the essence of cultural culture.

The Song Dynasty encouraged farm and mulberry, and the weaving industry was quite developed. Natural dyeing techniques -grass and trees were even more common on the basis of the great development of the Tang Dynasty, and the color of clothing was more colorful. The people's clothes are generally followed by the old Sui and Tang dynasties. Men's clothing is mainly robes, and women are represented by skirts. However, with the changes in people's aesthetic concepts, they advocate elegance and comfort, slim fit, lightweight, and simpler.

It can be seen from the popular painting of the Northern Song Dynasty that it can be seen that the men's upper body or short shirts, or the robe, long, shorts, scarves or gauze hats on the lower body. Among the scholars wearing the yarn hat, there is a "Dongpo hat" most popular. According to Su Dongpo, this gauze hat is short, with a short eaves, shaped like a high barrel, and it is also called "high barrel hat". The valley towel is also quite famous and is made by Huang Tingjian. Black boots are used by scholars. Civilians wear cloth shoes, brown shoes, straw shoes. Southerners like to wear wooden pupa. There are also long socks and socks worn by people in the Song Dynasty. However, the biggest difference between today's socks is that there are generally no bottoms of socks. Among the few female images in the paintings, women in the Northern Song Dynasty generally wore long skirts, and skirts could cover their feet. However, during the Chongning to Daguan years of the Northern Song Dynasty, short -hairing styles, short -sized clothing is short clothing. It is popular among citizens and people. It is convenient to wear. When working, it is usually a blue and white scarf, such as a woman who poured wine in the wine shop. The painter Zhang Ziduan also drew a few women riding a donkey, wearing a charming shirt, a cap, and hanging a tulle surrounding to cover the face.

"Qingming Shanghe Tu" local

The most primitive function of wearing a hat is to cover the body and protect the cold. With the development of social life, clothing has been given two functions: the first is the materialization of aesthetic concepts, and the second is the materialization of the concept of hierarchy. There are restrictions on the costumes of the people in the past dynasties. There are regulations on what clothing and color of the people. At the beginning of the Song Dynasty, the court also banned the people from purple, because purple was a wealthy color dedicated to power. However, the commodity economy of the Song Dynasty was prosperous, the life of civilians was very active, and the color of people's clothing became more and more diverse. In Song Taizong, there were more people wearing purple, and the emperor had to avoid the ban. In the Southern Song Dynasty, this purple was shared with nobles. At that time, a wide cuffs made of purple gauze were wide, and the lower knee was called "food shirts". Because it is comfortable and simple, it is loved by scholars.

Song Anonym's "Flower Watching Flowers"

"The system of clothing, mixing up and down" has become a major feature of the Song Dynasty clothing culture. Even the situation of "Luo Yan, Qi Yan, weaving, embroidery, and self -princes are the same as those who use them together."

Although Luo, as a high -grade silk fabric, it is one of the most commonly used fabrics in the Song Dynasty. Women in Song Ci always wear lightwear skirts. Watch Li Qingzhao's "Nan Gezi":

Jie Luo's chat, how night.

There are also such costumes in the poem "Bo Luo Shirt Bo Luo Skirt". In Liu Yong's "Wanghai Tide", "Hu Ying Luo Qi" described the northern Song Dynasty, and the households in Hangcheng people had exquisitely beautiful clothing. Because "Luo" silk is mostly produced in Hangzhou, it is also called "Hang Luo". When Hang Luo was prosperous, the large and small workshops were located in the area of ​​Gu Geng Mountain (formerly Babizen). Under the nourishment of Qiantang's soil, the quality of Hangzhou mulberry silk can be regarded as one of the best in the country. Every spring and summer, the Beijing -Hangzhou Grand Canal is already a busy scene. The ships coming and going are transported to the exquisite Rob. They will arrive in Beijing from Hangzhou two months later. , Swept at the home of the city.

Qian Chuan "Zhaoliang Lady Map"

The embroidery and paintings of the Song Dynasty's clothing are also more common. The silk clothing unearthed from the tomb of Zhao Bozhen, Zhejiang, has silk clothing such as the grape pattern of the placket, the double butterfly skewers chrysanthemum pattern shirt. When the clothing of thousands of years ago reappeared in front of us, the life of the entire Song of Great Song seemed to be in front of us.

Plasma grape pattern 枝 枝 枝 枝 对

Double butterfly skewers chrysanthemum pattern shirt

Image source: Pin Evaluation History Inn

Source 丨 Voice of the Voice of Chinese Social Sciences West Lake

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