"Lao cloth new do"!She has made small thick cloths into non -heritage cultural characteristic industries

The Yangtze River Daily Da Wuhan Client September 21 (Reporter Ye Feiyan) In the Hubei Bailu Handmade Home Textile Company Zaoyang Rich Fabric Institute, Zhang Qihua was sitting in front of the weaving machine, her feet stepped on the pedal, and their hands flexibly worn their hands on the back and forth. After the upper and lower rows of cotton yarn, the latitude and weft intercourse, a group of white and green cloth slowly spread out in the hands, presented in front of the reporter.

Zhang Qihua is the fourth -generation inheritor of the representative project of the national intangible cultural heritage "Zaoyang Rough Cloth Manufacturing Skills". "This is a historical treasure, and it cannot be lost." Zhang Qihua and her family have inherited this traditional skill to the sixth generation for many years, and made small thick cloths into non -heritage cultural characteristics.

Zhang Qihua is making jujube rough cloth.

The thick cloth is not "thick", a 72 -way process of one cloth

Zaoyang hand -rough cloth, also known as old cotton cloth, old soil cloth, hand weaving, home cloth, etc. It uses high -quality cotton planting produced in Zaoyang as raw materials, and uses hand -shaking single -ingot spinning cars, wooden pedal machines and other tools. Formed.

"The textile in the Zaoyang area has a long history, and it has a history of more than 6,200 years after research. Zaoyang's thick cloth completely inherits traditional production skills." Zhang Qihua told reporters that "Zaoyang's thick cloth production skills" is a kind of inheritance of Zaoyang folk generation. The craftsmanship of handmade textile cotton cloth is completed by manual operation, which has the characteristics of pure handicraft operation, complex procedures, superb skills, and traditional plant printing and dyeing.

轧花、弹花、搓棉条、纺线、织布、染布……枣阳粗布制作技艺从棉花种植到织成布匹包括72道工序，其中主要的核心工序有17道，非常复杂，十分Test patience.

When she was a child, most of the female elders of Zhang Qihua would be weaving. She listened to the squeak of the weaving machine since she was a child. She grew up with the pillow made by the coarse cloth, and also became interested in the weaving fabric. Gradually, Zhang Qihua found that due to the very complicated hand -woven fabric process and the rapid development of textile technology, Zaoyang's hand -made rough cloth gradually faded out of people's lives, and the "jujube handmade coarse cloth textile skills" was also on the verge of loss.

"The inheritance of skills requires the market." Since 2005, Zhang Qihua and Liu Dayou have begun to ponder the use of market -oriented methods to inherit traditional culture and develop it into modern textile brands. They registered and set up Hubei Bai Bu Hall handicrafts in Hongshan District, Wuhan City, which means that they are the century -old culture, people's products, and century -old brands that are made in Zaoyang, and they have settled the project inheritance base in Hongshan District.

In November 2021, Baibutang participated in the China (Wuhan) Cultural Tourism Expo.

Inheritance from generation to generation, Zaoyang is rough into national non -heritage

Zhang Qihua's mother -in -law and the 95 -year -old Wang Yilin this year is the third -generation non -genetic inheritor of "Zaoyang Coarse Capacity". After the ears, Liu Dayou and Zhang Qihua also became the "guardian" of Zaoyang's rough cloth. The two have been studying and organizing this skill throughout the country more than 20 years ago. Driven by their promotion, in June 2021, the "Zaoyang Coarse Flasting Technology" was announced by the State Council to include the fifth batch of national intangible cultural heritage representative project list.

Since 2012, the two have learned from their mother and have been teaching actively. Starting from Hongshan District, where Hubei Baibutang Manual Home Textile Company is located, from the tree "Bai Bu Tang" brand, to the wide opening training course, 8 non -genetic practices and non -genetic inheritance have been established in Wuhan, Zaoyang and other places. base. Each year for free training and teaching textile skills for the society, and the women's federation has also established a women's dual -innovation base with the Women's Federation to provide women with labor employment opportunities. At the same time, in addition to actively participating in the Shenzhen Cultural Expo, Shanghai Expo, Hainan Cultural Tourism Expo and other international exhibitions, in addition to the Bailu Tang Zaoyang Rough Founder Team. The production technology community "national tour exhibition activities, vigorously spread intangible cultural heritage.

So far, Zhang Qihua has allowed her daughter, nephew, nephew, rural left -behind women, and more than 3,000 social enthusiasts to learn traditional rough textile skills, which has inherited and used Zaoyang's rough cloth production skills to inherit this traditional craftsman The sixth generation.

If you want to be good, you must first benefit your instrument. The Bailutang also improved the traditional weaving machine of "Zaoyang Rough Fabric Production Skills". This year, the newly designed newly designed new weaving machine is more portable and can be folded. The weaving tactics concluded by Wang Yilin are printed on it: "Sitting on the temple of the king, facing Wufeng Tower, the upper and lower dragons spoke, the left and right phoenix nodded, and wearing the sun and the moon with one hand, and the feet settled."

In October 2019, Baibutang cooperated with Wuhan Textile University to participate in the Chinese clothing show.

Close to life, Lao Bu woven modern new ideas

"A non -heritage must see people, but also to live in life." Under the concept of "Lao Bu New", Zaoyang's rough cloth has entered all aspects of people's lives.

The reporter saw in the product display area of ​​Hubei Baibutang Manual Home Textile Company that products made by Zaoyang's thick cloth include clothing, thick cloth mats, high -end home textiles and other home products, as well as handicrafts such as fabric dolls, fragrant bags, cultural and creative mobile phone cases. The product is full of color, the pattern has changed a lot, and the color is simple and bright, giving people a fresh line beauty. Zhang Qihua introduced that Zaoyang thick cloth products not only have the characteristics of soft texture, no folds, elasticity, and not static electricity, but also have the functions of summer hygroscopic and sweating in summer. Crafts and other fields. At the moment of natural and environmentally friendly lifestyle, Zaoyang's hand -made rough cloth textiles are favored by consumers. At present, Bailutang has opened 30 specialty stores in Wuhan City and 105 specialty stores in the country. Zaoyang thick cloth products. Reporter Ye Feiyan Photo

To inherit more innovation, Zhang Qihua put forward the research and development concept of "old cloth newly do". In terms of raw materials research and development, cooperate with the Provincial Academy of Agricultural Sciences, and cooperate with Wuhan Textile University and Hubei University of Technology in product design and processing. The tools are constantly innovating to integrate non -heritage arts into modern life. The team of the Herbutang Zaoyang Chouyang has recovered and improved the plant dye dyeing process. The authentic inheritance hand spinning hand -dyeing process, simple pattern lotus cloth, innovative customized pattern hand weaving and painting and other new products.

In the first non -heritage fashion show held in Hubei Province held at the end of May this year, 17 sets of jujubeyang thick cloth non -heritage fashion produced by Baibutang, with its unique production technology, incorporated traditional skills into the current design, which surprised the audience. The cultural heritage engraved in time glows with new charm.

【Edit: Wang Rongfei】

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