How to become "soft gold" in modern times in modern times

History of Fur

The warmth of houses in ancient China was not very good. At that time, there was no heating, no air conditioning, and it was difficult to imagine how people spent in the cold winter in the north. Of course, the ancients mainly rely on clothing to keep warm, of which animal fur clothing is the best. The clothes made of fur are sometimes called fur or fur in China. Animals that can make clothes include mink, fox skin, tiger skin, sheepskin, beaver, seal skin, etc.

In history, the fur has a deep cultural connotation. For example, the fur clothes in the Book of Songs implys the difference in the order of society. A person's clothing needs to be in line with his identity. Lao Qiu made of lamb fur. Whether it is Qiu (clothes) made of various types of animal fur, or 弁 (hats) and other products, the ancients should be careful when wearing.

If the people of the Zhou Dynasty were hunting, if the fox was caught, the fox fur was made into a fur to dedicate to the nobles. The Zhou Dynasty also had official positions such as Si Qiu, Palm Skin, and was responsible for the management and production of the fur. The court of the Tang Dynasty also loved fur. Among them, the mink is also called "light fur" because of light softness. At that time, in addition to keeping warm, mink can also be used as official hats, clothing, and used to build cavalry equipment.

In the Tang Dynasty, tiger skin was often used in the Tang Dynasty cavalry equipment. The cushion below the saddman's saddle in Xuanwumen was tiger skin. Fox skin is not used because of precious. Washedle is more common. When the emperor of the Tang and Song dynasties was sacrificed, he occasionally imitated antique people and put on the big Qiu made of black lamb wool to show respect for heaven and earth.

In the Ming Dynasty, the fur was one of the tributes of tribute to the surrounding ethnic minorities. During the Ming Yingzong period, the Mongolian Watsui Ministry had entered the Gongqing Rats of 130,000 pieces and 16,000 silver mouse skin. In the Qing Dynasty, the palace's keen on the fur gradually became the national fashion.

The fur in the Qing Dynasty

The Qing Taizu Nurhachi from the northeast started a troops with thirteen arms, and eventually unified the various women's departments. After the establishment of the Qing Dynasty, the atmosphere of the Manchu advocating the fur was also taken to the Central Plains. In the early Qing Dynasty, fur clothes were a symbol of identity and grade. What levels of officials were stipulated in what levels of fur clothing. The clothes are also replaced uniformly every year. For example, it is necessary to wear mink during the winter. As the solar term changes, it gradually reaches the fox fur, gray rat leather, and silver mouse skin until it is replaced with cold sheepskin.

Therefore, wearing fur clothes in the Qing Dynasty was not for showing off their wealth, but the uniform regulations on the dress of officials. However, the requirements of officials' dressing, from the palace to the people, gradually changed the taste, and changed from "don't be expensive" to "the rich and the poor". During the Qianlong period, rich people wearing fox fur, generally middle -class wearing sheep fur has become fashionable, and some wealthy areas, even the phenomenon of "men are light fur, women are splendid".

The Qing Dynasty royal family's love for fur clothing gradually began to spread from north to south, and slowly set off a popular style of fur clothing among the people. Such as Guangzhou in the south, although it is not long in winter, it is really difficult to boil for a few days, and the demand for fur. There are many Qiuyi shops in Guangzhou, and the types of fur are all available.

For those who can't afford the entire fur clothing, people also think of a way to divide the fur into upper and lower two sections. The upper half of the inside is generally not visible. Use mink, 猞猁, fox skin and other good leather. Those who want to catch up with the trend because of the warm climate and do not need to wear fur, but sew a little fur on the cuffs or collar, called "leather coat". A little vanity.

Fur trade under globalization and its impact

American historian Peng Mulan believes that from 1650 to 1850, in the 200 years, Manchu from the Northeast entered the Central Plains and brought fur fashion to all parts of the country. In addition to gold and silver, fur has become a real "soft gold". Under the induction of high profits, the fur trade has entered a fierce multinational competition from the beginning. The huge Chinese market allowed Britain, the United States, France, and Russia to look for fur. From north to Alaska, south to south of the Pacific islands, they all left their figures. So, how exactly this global trade activity happened?

Since the middle of the 16th century, the popular sea felt hat in Europe has become a symbol of a person's social status. This consumption is fashionable and stimulates European fur demand. In the early days, France established colonies in North America, collectively referred to as New France, and Britain and Spain have competed here. The North American continent is cold and desolate. Why is it favored by so many colonial powers? In fact, the most important reason is that there are rich fur resources here. The colonists sell a large amount of fur to Europe to obtain huge profits.

However, with the rise of the British in the Americas, a British businessman named James Hainan began to transport the fur on the northwest coast to Chinese transactions earlier. The British became the main force of marine fur trade between the northwest coast and Guangzhou. China has gradually surpassed Europe to become the largest market for fur trade. Although the European fur market has also flourished for a while, compared with Guangzhou at that time, the demand for fur for the two is not the same level.

Followed by American merchants, the American merchants also quickly involved in marine animal fur trade. There is a well -known navigator in the United States, and people call him Captain Cook. He told Americans very early with his own navigation experience that fur is a highly profitable product.

In March 1778, Cook's fleet arrived at the northwest coast of the Pacific. The crews used knives, mirrors and other items to exchange some fur with indigenous people. In the second half of 1779, after they arrived in Guangzhou, the fur brought them unexpected huge wealth. The naigroma fur purchased by the six toas could be sold at a high price of $ 100 in China. However, in the early 1820s, the sea otter skin became more and more difficult to obtain. Once, American businessmen transported 18,000 sea otter skin to Guangzhou a year. Today, this number is only one -five -fifth. Driven by long -term profits, beaver, otter, and seals are almost extinct.

Not only did Western countries enter China, but the fur in modern China has also entered Europe and the United States. Starting from the second half of the 19th century, the great demand for wool in the European and American markets has stimulated the exit of Northeast fur. This also causes the indiscriminate killing of fur animals. In the face of high profits, the situation of fishing and fishing has appeared. In modern times, Manchuria has become a field for colonists. Wildlife is driven by a large range of human interests, which makes the ecological costs paid by China inestimable. It turns out that the use of animal fur as consumers is destined to be long -lasting and cannot be continuous. Human beings must respect nature and protect and protect animals, otherwise they will eat their own fruits.

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The article is published in the "Learning Times" September 9, 2022, 7th edition 7

Editor in this issue: Zhai Yueying

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