Old Suzhou Search | Hengtaixing Sauce Garden: The taste of the old Suzhou

The lives of the common people are inseparable from these seven things. Like modern people running a big supermarket, in Suzhou, which is old, the five "rice oil and salt sauce vinegar" can be in the sauce garden. One -stop purchase Qi Qi. With the background of the official salt, the sauce garden is naturally not opened by ordinary two people. With identities and status, you can get a permit.

There are two Pan in Suzhou. Fu Pan and Gui Pan are the two giants of Suzhou Sauce Garden. Pan Sui, Pan Sui, "Nanti Street Pan", can have 9 sauce gardens. Pan, more than half of the city, "Among them, the old Suzhou still remembers it, probably it should be regarded as" Hengtai Xing Sauce Garden ".

【one】

In Suzhou more than 160 years ago, it was the first year of Xianfeng in the Qing Dynasty (1851).

At that time, Suzhou was still the richest man in Jiangnan. The bustling gates were still coming and going. On this day, a new sauce garden was opened on the northeast of the monk bridge on Shantang Street.

This sauce garden covers an area of ​​about 5 acres and has more than 90 houses of handmade production workshops. The facade is the two major open -room Chaoshi Gate, surrounded by towering wind firewalls. The shop is a two -entrance building with wet tent cabinets (pickles, milk rot, soy sauce, etc.), dried tent cabinets (grain). The three dazzling gold plaque of the three dazzling gold plaque of the sauce garden "and" this stack of food ".

"It's not small." The people in Suzhou looked at the signboard at the same time as "Pan Heng Taixing".

"Oh, it's the industry of the Pan family again, no wonder ..."

The meaning behind the people's "no wonder" is naturally self -evident.

At the time of the Suzhou Sauce Garden, two Pan occupied most of the mountains and mountains. Who is who? The intricate relationship between Gui Pan and Fu Pan, the people naturally have no time to figure out. When they see the signboard of "Pan Heng Taixing", who will manage it, which Pan is this surname.

Both Pan family came from Huizhou. Pan Suo, known as Nan Shizi Pan, has nine sauce gardens such as Pan Wancheng; Pan Shien, known as the temple lane Pan, has twelve sauce gardens such as Pan Siyi and Ruitaixin. The dried tofu produced by Pan is a treasure of Suzhou and a well -known product of Su Yu.

Hengtai Xing, who can hang the "Pan" signboard, cannot be underestimated.

However, at that time, no matter how good the hardware conditions were, after all, it was first -time. With the reputation of "Pan Yiyi", Hengtai Xing was going to break out of a famous hall, and naturally spent some effort.

【two】

The first is that the product is too good.

The signature products of the sauce garden are naturally sauce and pickles. Hengtai Xing sauce soybeans generally choose Northeast Dalian beans with thick -grain and round, and need to rolled rice and rolled mud and impurities; The quality of similar products made is higher than those of the peers; the raw raw ingredients of sauce croissance comes from Wujiang Pingwang, and the radish production area is the Changshu Zhitang.

The most famous is the fragile milk rot. The glutinous rice is used in the glutinous rice and the glutinous rice produced by the Golden Altar and the Yangyang, which causes the wine to add it to the milk altar with the soil roasted alcohol. Probably through the "energy" inside and outside the court, and the quality of its own products, this piece of bad milk rot has been sent to the capital, becoming the "porridge dish" of the emperor. As soon as the name "Entering Beijing Milk Rotten" came out, Heng Taixing immediately became the "fragrant" of Suzhou sauce garden industry.

It should be known that the famous milk rot in the Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces in the Qing Dynasty is everywhere: Pinghu, Suzhou, Shaoxing, and Fengxian. Hengtai Xing entered Beijing as a representative of Suzhou milk rot, and there was no scenery.

There are soy sauce.

There is a buzzword on the Internet, called "soy sauce", which probably means "passing by, making fun". I do n’t know that the previous soy sauce was sold and zigzag. I took the bottle to the store. How much do you want, how much you want to give you, this is the true meaning of "soy sauce".

The older generation of Suzhou people will probably remember that every time they pass the suspension bridge outside the door, they can smell a sauce flavor. This is the soy sauce flavor floating from No. 54 Shantang Street.

Heng Taixing's soy sauce is made of Lao Fang, which is made of soybean fermentation. It is more colorful than the old soy sauce sold in the supermarket now. It is suitable for Jiangnan cuisine like braised pork.

However, the name "Hengtai Xing Soy Sauce" may not know much about Suzhou, but if it is said that "Gusu" soy sauce will probably "oh ...". The "Gusu" soy sauce was composed of Hengtai Xing Sauce Garden, Xintaiqiang Garden and a batch of soy sauce cooperation groups after the founding of the People's Republic of China.

At that time, the soy sauce used by almost all ordinary people's house was Gusu.

【3】

Do not think that the sauce garden of the old Fatou is just a small shop in the front shop and back workshop. It also has another function: the wine hall. Suzhou people are accustomed to eating rice wine. Whether they are drinking or festive festivals, they are still with rice wine, so "eating" rice wine has become atmospheric. The rice wine in Suzhou is divided into two categories, one is called soil wine, and the other is called Shaojiu.

It is provided in the sauce garden.

In the Hengtai Xing Sauce Garden, a row of rows of drainage altar and oil, salt, sauce, and vinegar are arranged inside the curved counter. There is a wine hall outside the curvature counter. Generally, there are only one or two square tables and some benches. This is already much better than some remote store conditions. In some sauce garden shops, there are no tables and chairs. The alcoholic people rely on the side of the counter. Zuo a bowl of wine, leaving after eating, the former guest came, in fact, this is the most primitive "bar". The hotel "eats" with wine can be prepared, and the store also provides some salted water peanuts, green smoke, tofu and the like. Those who really "eat" rice wine in the sauce garden are those who really love wine and come from drinking. Therefore, there are saying that "good drinkers do not go to the restaurant, and the restaurant heavy vegetables are not heavy. The restaurant is the other way. "So a copper plate, when you buy more than 20 licorice and spiced beans, you can fill a pound of rice wine.

"Eat", generally from 3 pm to at 10 pm, but the store has a rule, and the guests do not scatter and cannot snooze. Guests often make a gathering party to drink, and there are even more ordering orders. They do n’t think about it.

This is a unique landscape in the sauce garden.

However, in the second half of 1966, the "Breaking Four Old" was closed. The old store number changed the new name, and the "eating" completely disappeared. This has also become an indelible mark in the old Suzhou.

【】

For a century, Hengtai Xing has not been smooth.

In May 1860, the Taiping Army broke through the Qing Army Jiangnan Camp in one fell swoop. Jiangsu governor Xu Youren retreated to Suzhou. "I can't get it, you don't want to get it." Xu Youren, who was in his brain, set fire arson, the general soldier of the town of famous town. The front lines of Nanjie Street, Yamitang to Tiger Hill outside the gate, and the city from Zhongshi Street to the driving bridge, Wu Fangfang and other places were turned into ashes.

Heng Taixing was destroyed.

Thanks to Li Xiucheng, Loyal King established Sufu Province in the southern Jiangsu area east of Changzhou. The provincial capital is scheduled to open a large amount of capital to open shops for businessmen in various industries, and Hengtai Xing resumed his business.

In the first year of the Republic of China (1912), on March 27, a sudden change occurred outside the gate, and the merchants were ranging again. Hengtai Xing was also caught. Later, he had to absorb the shareholders of the foreign name, and the name of the store was changed to Hengtai Xingchang accordingly. During the enemy and pseudo, the store changed its owner and renamed Hengtai Xingfeng.

After the entire industry's public -private partnership in 1956, Hengtai Xing successively entered some small sauce gardens to establish the "Golden Sauce Product Breeding Factory". Clear production nuclear assets found that this sauce garden selling "pickles and radish dried" is more than 88,000 yuan, which does not include houses. At that time, the monthly salary of ordinary workers was only 20-30 yuan, and more than 88,000 yuan of funds were simply an astronomical figure.

However, under the pinch of the sauce and new flavors of condiment, the taste of the people of Suzhou has become diversified under the pinch of the batch -produced pickles and new flavors. Lopsided.

(Text/Xinghua)

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