"Master of Cantonese" ｜ 好 ｜ Beautiful is the last word: Old Guangzhou, New Cantonese

Text/Zhao Liping

Famous chefs, as far as "Guangzhou's first house"

Guangzhou Restaurant was founded in 1935. At that time, Mr. Chen Xinghai, a businessman Chen Xinghai, a businessman in Yingji Tea Village, fancy a land on Wenchang Road in Guangzhou and the border of the upper and lower nine. Due to its excellent feng shui, he opened the "Guangzhou Restaurant" to the southwest at that time. The predecessor "Southwest Restaurant". At the beginning of the store in Guangzhou, the Guangzhou Restaurant adhering to the training of chefs in large shops, and at the beginning, he was determined to be in "Guangzhou's first house".

The original text was published on August 25, 2022, "Yangcheng Evening News" A10

At the time of opening, the golden plaque was high, and the doors on both sides were written "North and South wine, which are very important". The shop opened a hundred seats. At the beginning of the business, the "Southwest Wenchang Chicken" made by the "Southwest Wenchang Chicken" made by the "Southern Kitchen King" at the time, and the famous chef Liang Ruinchuang created the name, which attracted a lot of gentry and expensive to come to the door to try.

"Southwest Wenchang Chicken" is to cut off the famous chicken Wenchang chicken from Hainan Island. It is matched with ham, treasure liver, and vegetable far away. The dishes are novel and unique. Zou Dianbang, the president of the Guangzhou Chamber of Commerce, sent the golden plaque of "Guangzhou's first house". Cai Tingzheng, the commander of the 19th Army of the Anti -Japanese Route, also presented "drinking and food virtue" to commend.

Although the Southwest Restaurant was destroyed in the war in 1938, the reputation had been dragged, and later rebuilt. The tea house giant Tan Qingbo and Chen Boqi scrambled to enter the stocks, making the reconstruction like a phoenix Nirvana, and the city named the city. "The word," Guangzhou Big Restaurant ", is also the first restaurant named" Guangzhou "in the history of Guangzhou.

Guangzhou Restaurant Wenchang Store

The rebuilding Guangzhou restaurant has a greater spirit and greatly surpass the size of the Southwest Restaurant. The restaurant is located in the triangle. Its facade design integrates the Chinese and Western architectural styles, and builds an oblique corner "Review Desk". There is a red cotton in front of the door, which becomes a sign.

Due to the world chef Liang Xian, who won the gold award of the Panama International Cooking Competition, the Guangzhou Restaurant was more reputable. "Southwest Wenchang Chicken" was renamed "Guangzhou Wenchang Chicken", and the award -winning work "Paris Duck" in the Panama cooking contest was reflected and became the first card. New famous dishes such as "Crab Yellow Big Wings", "Baihua Fried Duck Palm" and "Glass Prawn" are all attractive.

At this time, the famous masters gathered, and the provincial, Hong Kong, and Australian snackers' "Four King of Heaven", European standards, European standards, and Li Ying were all attributed to His Majesty. "Crab Meat Soup Dumplings", "Yaozhu Guifei Bags", "Chicken Ball Bags", "Shawan Original Milk Tart" and other names have their own characteristics.

He used the method of making soup bags, and the first "crab meat soup dumplings" were created by the flavor and well -known. The same European standard, one of the "Four Heavenly Kings", is well known for "shrimp dumplings". The "Yaozhu Guifei Bags" and "Chicken Ball Bags" created. , Ingenious.

According to the seventh generation, a feast is out of the prosperous world

After the founding of the People's Republic of China, Guangzhou Big Restaurant successfully achieved public -private partnerships. From the first Canton Fair in 1957, it became one of the official designated stores designated by the official, and mobilized the famous chef from other famous restaurants to take the deputy heavy responsibility. Based on the reason, the famous kitchen of the Guangzhou restaurant gathered, and it was a limelight. By 1973, it was officially renamed the "Guangzhou Restaurant".

From the "Southern Kitchen King" Zhong Quan before liberation, Liang Rui, a famous chef in Guangdong, Liang Xian, "World Chef King", "Wing King" Wu Yan, and then the Cantonese cuisine of Cantonese cuisine, Huang Zhenhua, "Cantonese Cai Godfather", and Huang Zhenhua After the group's production director Wu Zigui, the administrative chef Cai Weizhu, the seventh generation of Guangzhou Restaurant, it was introduced to the new, breaking the historical spell of "rich three generations", and constantly writing a new chapter.

Huang Zhenhua was a generation of famous chefs after the reform and opening up. He was born in the family of chefs, and his father Huang Shen had worked in the Cantonese industry for more than 40 years, and had an inestimable impact and help on his chef's career.

Huang Zhenhua began to enter the catering industry at the age of 16. He also cultivated in the field of Cantonese cuisine for 45 years. He has served as the chief chef and administrative chef in Guangzhou Restaurant. It is the "001" of Guangzhou Restaurant. "National Treasure Cantonese Master", hundreds of new dishes such as "Yipin Tianxiang" and "Jiahe geese buckle" for decades, and developed the "round table Chinese cuisine" and "Manhan Daquan Ban" that concentrated the four major dishes of the country. The "Huacheng Beauty Banquet" that adds honors to Guangzhou, the strong innovation ability is amazing ——

In the second National Cooking Competition held in Beijing in 1988, he won the gold medal with a "three -color lobster"; in 1990, he led the Chinese team to win the gold medal in the World Cup Cooking Contest.

For half a century, in addition to adhering to his own post, Huang Zhenhua also served as many social positions committed to promoting Cantonese cuisine's food culture. Not only did he serve as a national catering skills judge, but he also became the only two World Chef Federation judges in China. one.

After retiring, Huang Zhenhua was still old and fascinated by thousands of miles. He continued to make a lot of money. He made his life ’s cooking experience with Cantonese cuisine into cooking books such as“ Huang Zhenhua Cantonese Cantonese Skills Technology ”, which passed the selflessly in his life to the future generations.

After Huang Zhenhua, Guangzhou Restaurant welcomed another chef Wu Zigui. As an apprentice of Huang Zhenhua, some famous dishes are reappeared under the overall operation of Wu Zigui.

In July 2013, the Master of Guangzhou Restaurant visited Northern Europe

Guangzhou Restaurant has always taken its responsibility to inherit the essence of Cantonese cuisine, and to promote the "eating in Guangzhou". Looking back at the 80 -year -old Cantonese cuisine works of Guangzhou Restaurant, the "Shengshi Feast" undoubtedly represents the highest achievements. Cantonese -style "Manchu Quanshi" was first created by Huang Zhenhua in the 1980s. For this reason, Huang Zhenhua has personally went to the birthplace to study, go to museums in Changchun and other places to study the Manchu food culture, purchase traditional specific ingredients, and transform dishes based on the characteristics of Guangfu cuisine.

For example, in the practice of "wonderful hump", considering that the north uses "picking" techniques to make a stagnation, switch to "fry" -first soak the hump with brine and grass fruits several times to remove it to remove it to remove it to remove it to remove it to remove it to remove The fishy smell is stir -fry with shiitake mushrooms, horseshoe and celery grains; "Bishi Fish King" uses cantonese ingredients such as Su Mei Fish or Dongxing Passion, which is made by Cantonese Temple.

The "South Vietnamese Kings Banquet" is a work of the ten -year -old sword in Guangzhou Restaurant. It aims to discover the food culture of the South Vietnamese period and explain the food culture and heritage of "Eat in Guangzhou". South Vietnam's food resources were abundant. At that time, the "food officials" and "kitchen" combined the advanced cooking skills of Central Plains with cookers with the ingredients and diet of Yuedi to form a unique Cantonese cuisine style and created a compatible diet. The influence continues to this day.

Wu Zigui led the Guangzhou Restaurant chef team to study historical data with relevant experts and scholars, and finally settled: In terms of food and materials, the selection of raw materials that best reflect the characteristics of the dietary characteristics of the South Vietnam period, such as snakes, birds, seafood and other foods; nine nine. The dishes "Xiongguan New Road", "Shihuang Xunzhen", and "Lingqu Charter" were named from the nine allusions recorded by historical materials; the cooking method imitated the practical methods of stew, branding, artillery, and burning at the time. The exquisite dishes and service processes of the "South Vietnamese Banquet" have been highly praised in the industry and abroad, adding a new connotation to the Cantonese Cuisiner's Lingnan cultural business card.

The "Five Dynasties Banquet" combines the classic famous dishes of the Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, adding color to the traditional Cantonese cuisine.

Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties banquets

In 2021, the new generation of the leading chef Cai Weiguo, the new generation of Guangzhou Restaurant, from the "Cantonese Fasse of the Republic of China: The Old Recipe of the Cantonese Cooking Master" edited by the general manager Zhao Liping, a selected trial and re -engraving a "Cantonese Feast of the Republic of China". This is "full After the Han Daquan "," Five Dynasties Banquet "and" South Vietnam King Banquet ", the Cantonese cuisine masters inherited the orderly and introduced new new things.

As a master of Master Wu Zigui, Cai Weizhu has been working in the food industry for more than 30 years. During more than 30 years, he grew up from a "lotus" to "Chinese cooking master", deputy general manager of Guangzhou Restaurant Group Catering Management Company, and representative project of intangible cultural heritage -Cantonese cuisine cooking skills.

After more than 80 years of wind and rain, the Guangzhou restaurants have always adhered to their original intentions from the founding of the seventh generation and the chef team of the current seventh generation and the chef team. Today, Guangzhou Restaurant is the representative project of provincial intangible cultural heritage -Cantonese cuisine cooking skills and Guangfu tea drinking customs.

Dare to innovate, Master Cantonese cuisine has repeatedly won awards

From the first Canton Fair in 1957, as a foreign reception store designated by Guangzhou, Guangzhou Restaurant participated in important reception tasks of various provinces and cities. During the transaction, the state will use limited resources and best resources to receive Chinese and foreign merchants, which gives Guangzhou Restaurant Cantonese Masters' craftsmanship.

Cantonese cuisine during the lack of raw materials, Guangzhou Restaurant Cantonese cuisine masters started a round of innovation with their craftsmanship and creativity. In the 1950s, Guangzhou Restaurant had to complete the reception task of 400 representatives of 400 celebrities, and they only had meat and oil and a large pile of sweet potatoes at hand.

With these raw materials, the chefs and snackers tried to make more than 60 snacks and more than 30 dishes. On the day of the banquet, the "sweet potato feast" of each table was launched, of which "western juice potato preserved" and "colorful fried fried fried fried The two evaluations of the potato shreds are the highest, and even the praise of the returned overseas Chinese who had dine at that time: "Western cuisine in the Western cuisine is not as good as sweet potato dishes!"

Guangzhou Restaurant leader and archeologist Mai Yinghao is studying the king banquet

With the reform and opening up, the economic development situation has gradually improved, and the supply of supply has gradually enriched, but high -end seafood ingredients are still very rare. Even in 1980, a high -level feast is quite expensive for Guangzhou restaurants. matter.

At that time, Guangzhou Restaurant sent the strongest procurement team to implement the materials. According to the memories of Cantonese cuisine, Huang Zhenhua: "The black fish needed for a pair of fresh black fish balls must live in the place where salty and freshwater. Thoughts, finally found it through the aquatic company in Yangjiang. "

Since the 1980s, Guangzhou Restaurant has begun to participate in the world, provincial, and municipalities to participate in the World Cooking Competition and return reputation, and has been selected to the Ambassador to be responsible for cooking. "Cantonese cuisine" Huang Zhenhua and Wu Zigui both have many experience in foreign cooking competitions. The 1990 World Cup Cooking Contest was held in Luxembourg. Cooking masters in 24 countries represented their own countries. The Chinese team was 12, and the captain was Huang Zhenhua.

On a 20 -square -meter booth, each team must complete the production of noodles, hot dishes and cold dishes. Hot dishes, 4 dishes of one person lunch, 7 dishes of dinner with one person; two people with cold dishes, two people with two large platter, 8 small dots before meals. All 130 copies are made, cooking on the spot, and keeping fresh for a day. Together with 5 assistants, Huang Zhenhua finally won the gold medal after more than 50 hours of cooking.

In the third American "Traditional Cup" World Competition in 1995, the captain was Wu Zigui. The competition was only hot and cold. The hot vegetables were drawn in the form of "mysterious baskets". The Chinese team drawn 11 raw materials in the "Mysterious Basket" including 11 cabbage, 10 bags of pineapple, 4 pork and some fish.

The menu is settled at the end: appetizer sweet and sour meat, the main vegetable oyster juice fish roll, sweets are pineapple stuffing steamed bags, sweet cakes with strawberry sauce. Wu Zigui picked up the hot bronze medal and cold vegetable silver medal.

In 2010, Guangzhou successfully held the Asian Games, marking that Guangzhou officially entered the ranks of international cities. With this Dongfeng, there are more and more dining diplomatic diplomatic and foreign exchanges in Guangzhou Restaurant. In 2011, commissioned by the Overseas Chinese Affairs Office of the State Council, the Guangdong Provincial Overseas Chinese Affairs Office and the Guangzhou Overseas Chinese Affairs Office, the Guangzhou Restaurant formed the Chinese Kitchen Troupe to participate in the "Chinese Culinary Wuzhou Walk" launched by the Overseas Chinese Affairs Office of the State Council to visit Mexico and Dominica. 3 Latin American countries with Panama;

In 2013, the Overseas Chinese Affairs Office of the State Council once again commissioned Guangzhou Restaurant to send five famous chefs to many cities such as Sweden and Denmark for cooking. In 2017, the Chinese food prosperous delegation composed of five top chefs in Guangzhou Restaurant visited Australia, Fiji, and New Zealand to further promote Chinese food and food culture to the world.

Consumption upgrade, Guangzhou restaurant walked out of Guangzhou

Reform and opening up allowed the domestic economy to fully recover, not only driving the supply of raw materials, but also the prosperity of the Guangzhou catering industry, attracting the catering industry that collectively and individual operations opened. Other old -fashioned restaurants have introduced foreign capital. From decoration to dishes, from business methods to service concepts, the eight immortals across the sea show their magical powers.

The restaurants that are co -operated with foreign -owned foreign -funded business are comfortable meal environment with new products such as central air -conditioning, carpets, and crystal lamps. In contrast, several lamps and a few hangers in Guangzhou restaurants have no advantage at all. Even old customers have begun to complain about air -conditioning in other restaurants, but they still blow the fan in Guangzhou restaurants. Faced with severe market challenges, store decoration, aging personnel, and rigid business philosophy, such as Guangzhou restaurants with a total asset of less than 400,000 yuan have obviously unable to afford the name of "Guangzhou's first house".

Faced with the dilemma, Guangzhou Restaurant mortgaged 4 million yuan to the bank with a net asset of 370,000 yuan. It re -renovated and renovated the Guangzhou restaurant, recruited new employees, and introduced and implemented new management methods. The old name of Guangzhou Restaurant also turned from the old name of "Electric Fan on the top of the head, pedaling flower street bricks", and turned into a catering world with glass -covered indoor gardens and air -conditioned carpet chandeliers.

In terms of system, Guangzhou Restaurant has also carried out a large -scale innovation, breaking the employment distribution mechanism of state -owned enterprises, recruiting workers for the society, and introducing the most advanced management methods at that time, which greatly inspired employees' work enthusiasm. At the same time, the corporate spirit that adhered to the "heart -warming customer" became the advanced models of the two civilization construction in Guangzhou at that time and the municipal party committee called the city's advanced example.

One month after the reconstruction, the turnover of the Guangzhou restaurant began to rise sharply. In the first month after the renovation, the turnover increased by 56%year -on -year, and the turnover reached more than 20 million yuan that year. Such performance also paid off the loan in half a year in the Guangzhou restaurant.

In different periods, Guangzhou restaurants can always be keenly smell market changes, and have the courage to take the first step to lead the industry first.

Pomelo

Since the 1980s, when the domestic catering brand chain is still blank, Guangzhou Restaurant has drawn on Western business philosophy, take the lead in breaking the traditional food industry single -store business model, introduced chain operations, and opened the first chain restaurant -Guangzhou Guangzhou -Guangzhou The restaurant Enning Branch successfully explored the development path for the chain operation of the catering brand.

Since then, Guangzhou Restaurant has successively opened more than ten branches such as Binjiangxi, Sports East, and Dongshan, which has greatly enhanced the popularity and influence of the Guangzhou Restaurant brand.

In recent years, in the context of consumption upgrade, Guangzhou restaurants have attracted and retained consumer groups of new generations through the renovation of store decoration styles.

In December 2018, Guangzhou Restaurant opened in the new store along the middle of Yuexiu District, Guangzhou. This new store, as always, presents consumers the most authentic taste of "the first house in Guangzhou." At the same time, in terms of design style, the Mid -River Middle Road Store also made a great breakthrough:

Different from the traditional design in the past, the new store shows more of the "new" Guangfu cultural style; there are no antique lanterns, banyan trees, pavilions and pavilions. Instead, it is more in line with the current popular aesthetic style.

In order to meet the requirements of young people's space experience, compared with the lively loose guest hall in the past, the boundary of the pots of the pots of the pot of the pot to separate the hall, and there is a sense of distance between the table and the table. Increases the privacy of space. Such exploration is also reflected in other aspects: tableware, selecting some designs and cultural elements on tableware; the dishes are more pursuing fresh and paying more attention to the exquisite settles; in terms of service, every room is responsible for the person. Point -to -point follow -up ...

This comprehensive upgrade from the inside to the outside has kept the new store not only maintaining the traditional "Guangdong flavor", but also creating the image of a "new" Guangzhou restaurant. Since then, the Guangzhou Restaurant Group has successively transformed the stores in three types.

A traditional Lingnan wind, such as Wenchang Road and Binjiang West Store. While the two continues the classic menus, they also need to tap Lingnan's cultural and historical connotation.

The second store is full of modern atmosphere. The dishes and decoration take the business route, such as the River Store, R & F Yingtong Store, etc. The store is different from the traditional design in the past. The current popular aesthetic style. The third type of stores are the familiar homemates that Lao Guang people are familiar with. Most of the old diners who go to consume are sighed in the three or four generations. Therefore, such stores are more affordable and delicious.

Guangzhou Restaurant Shenzhen Branch

According to the strategy of "catering strong brand", the Guangzhou Restaurant Group has pioneered cities outside Guangzhou, Hong Kong and Macao Greater Bay Area, while focusing on the layout of key cities in East China and China, and promoting traditional Cantonese cuisine to the country.

In 2019, Guangzhou Restaurant's first catering store in Shenzhen brought traditional Cantonese cuisine to Shenzhen citizens. In 2020, the first dining store was opened in Nansha. Next, Guangzhou Restaurant will be in Shanghai, Hunan and other cities to promote the pace of Cantonese cuisine, telling the story of Cantonese cuisine, and promoting Lingnan food culture.

Help the Bay Area and build a world food capital

For a long time, Guangzhou restaurants will inherit non -heritage skills and promote Cantonese cuisine culture as their mission, and pay attention to the in -depth excavation of Cantonese cuisine culture. In 2020, Guangzhou Restaurant and the National First Museum -Guangdong Folk Craft Museum (Chen Family Temple) and Guangzhou Federation of Trade Unions jointly organized the "Drinking and Food Ethics -Taste with the Time Axis with Guangzhou Restaurant", with Guangzhou Restaurant 80 Over years of historical development, as a microcosm, the first overall display of the application of the history of Guangfu's food culture.

After the launch of the two exhibitions, it was praised by the society. The media in the city scrambled to report, so that the cultural heritage of Guangzhou restaurants further became popular. The success of these two exhibitions not only improved the reputation of the Guangzhou restaurant brand, but also systematically sorted out historical and culture, providing a cultural brand for Guangzhou Restaurant to create a cultural brand.

In 2022, Guangzhou Restaurant and the Guangdong Provincial Museum co -organized the "Traveling with Cantonese Cuisine -Cantonese Cuisine Cultural Exhibition" in the East Store at the Guangzhou Restaurant Sports East Store. exhibition. The newly completed "Reunion -Cantonese Mooncake Culture Special Edition Exhibition" of the Guangzhou Branch of the National Edition is hosted by the Guangzhou Restaurant.

In June 2019, the Guangzhou Restaurant Group was awarded the "Guangdong Cuisine Master Master Studio" in Guangdong Province, and opened the "Cantonese Master" Guangzhou Restaurant Class in Bijie, Conghua, Meizhou and other places in Guizhou to combine the development of corporate development with poverty alleviation. The results are significant.

In Leizhou, the Maode Gong Group jointly cultivated the local Cantonese cuisine master to get rich leaders. Focusing on the purchase of poverty alleviation raw materials in Guizhou Bijie, Meizhou, Guangdong, Yunfu Yunan and other places for deep processing of the kitchen, launching a variety of Cantonese -style flavors such as thorn pear crispy trio, sweet potato flowing heart crisp, pomelo skin sausage, etc. Waiting for high -quality ingredients to develop more than 30 famous Guangfu cuisine.

With the help of "old -fashioned+Cantonese crafts", it is an important innovation of the Guangzhou Restaurant Cancai Master Project. Actively rely on Guangzhou Consumer Assistance Alliance resources to hold more than ten Alliance member units to carry out production and supply and marketing cooperation with local enterprises to promote Lawei Yangcheng in Zhengguo Town; The pigeons created by the beef sausages, the pigeons created with Meizhou Chen Xiaoge, etc. are the new achievements of the continuous innovation of the Cantonese cuisine project of Guangzhou Restaurant Group.

Five Hua Gaoshan sweet potato flowing heart crispy

In October 2021, the Guangzhou Restaurant Group formulated the "Cantonese Cuisine Master" project (East and West Cooperation) Planning Plan "to continue to deepen cooperation with Bijie Vocational and Technical College to continuously expand the scale of the“ Cantonese Master ”Guangzhou Restaurant order class. Gradually replicated and promoted the successful experience of the "Cantonese Master" Guangzhou restaurant order class in Guizhou Qiannan and Anshun.

Make full use of the group's skills level identification agency qualifications, special ability fixed -point test room evaluation and identification system, systematically sort out recipes, soups, snacks, etc., formulate the "Guangfu cuisine" (Guizhou) ingredients standard guidelines and dishes standards, and actively explore the establishment of peace in Guizhou and the establishment of peace in Guizhou Promoting the Cantonese cuisine service standards, laid a solid foundation for the landing of Cantonese cuisine in the future, and help the new entry point for the "Cantonese Master" industry.

In the future, Guangzhou Restaurant will continue to use "becoming the leader of Cantonese -style food culture" as its positioning, and organize more Cantonese cuisine exhibitions with the museum, shoulder the heavy responsibility of promoting the cooking skills of Cantonese cuisine and its inheritance to the public. Eat in Guangzhou's first "gold signboard to help the Guangdong -Hong Kong -Macao Greater Bay Area build a world food capital.

(The pictures are provided by the author)

● Creation Notes ●

I went to work in Guangzhou Restaurant in 1990, and it has been 32 years. I witnessed the rejuvenation of Guangzhou Restaurant as a century -old store after the reform and opening up, and personally participated in the series of reforms of the innovative development of Guangzhou Restaurant, and together with the main leadership team of the enterprise, they led the inverse winds of the Guangzhou Restaurant Group in the epidemic in recent years. Flying and reversing expansion, they also blame to undertake the constant exploration and excavation and activation of the intangible cultural heritage of Cantonese cuisine to contribute to the food culture of Guangdong and the country.

The deepest feeling is the development of the Cantonese cuisine project. It is not only to pay tribute to the traditional weapon to create the future, but also a good balance of economic benefits and social benefits, corporate development and social responsibility. Carrying out the Cantonese cuisine master project, the meritoriousness and goodness.

● Introduction to the author ●

Zhao Liping, literary critics, collectors, advocates and promoters of Cantonese food culture, serving the catering industry for more than 30 years.Former vice chairman of the Guangdong Provincial Literary and Art Critics Association; former vice chairman of the Guangdong Cultural Society.He is currently the deputy secretary, deputy chairman and general manager of the Party Committee of Guangzhou Restaurant Group Co., Ltd.In recent years, it has won the 30th anniversary of the establishment of the Guangdong Culinary Association, the Golden Diamond Award of the Catering Industry Manager Gold Diamond Award, the 40 -year Outstanding Manager of Guangdong Catering, and the merits of Guangzhou Chain Industry.

Mainstream media such as "Southern Daily", "Yangcheng Evening News" and "Guangzhou Daily" have opened art collection and review columns, and have published works such as "Ji Zangzhai -Art Collection and Appreciation" and "Artists Those Things".

Source | Yangcheng Evening News · Yangcheng School

Responsible editor | Wu Xiaopan

School Division | Li Hongyu

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