History on the table | Eat ducks in the summer, talk about those duck food in history

Author:Yangzi Evening News Time:2022.08.24

Eating ducks in the summer day is probably the folk custom that has only emerged late. "Half of ducks in July, August half taro", ducks are the most fat at this time. Historically, a lot of cuisine with duck cooking has achieved a lot of food. For example, Qianlong loves eight ducks, roast ducks that Beijing people love to eat, and board ducks that Nanjing people love to eat.

Where does the duck come from?

Today's science confirms that Chinese ducks are domesticated from green head ducks. It is a native species in China. This is different from the cattle, sheep, and horses in the "six animals". Entering China.

According to legend, Fuxi's connecting the net 羲 fishing and catching birds, green head ducks are one of the captured wild birds. After long -term breeding, it was domesticated into a duck. The ancestor of the dictionary "Erya" was written in the book. , Refers to the wild duck; rushing, what is said is the duck.

There are many lakes in Jiangnan Water Village. "Wu Di Zhi" contains, "Wu Wang built a city to raise ducks, dozens of miles around." This is the earliest text record of Jiangnan Duck. By the Qin and Han dynasties, chicken and ducks and geese had become the three poultry at that time.

Naturally, you can eat ducks. The "Nan Qi Shu" records the sacrifice scene of Emperor Qi Wu Yongming's nine -year first month, saying, "Recommended the emperor's noodle cakes, ducks (monthly crickets), filial piety of bamboo shoots, duck eggs, preserved sauce, white meat ... "

"Get up cake" is the pasta made of noodles; That is to say, this sacrifice Qi Xuandi used the hair cake and duck meat, and the queen of the emperor Qi Xuandi used the bamboo shoots and duck eggs. This is what they love to eat during their lifetime.

The sacrifice of this sacrifice obviously does not meet the national festival. It turned out that Emperor Qi Wu dreamed of Emperor Gao said to him: "The emperors of the Southern Song Dynasty often crowded into the Taimiao, followed me for food, grabbing food, you, you can find another place to worship me." So Emperor Wu ordered people to be clear. In the spring and autumn of the old house, the grandparents and parents were sacrificed in the four seasons.

At this point, historian Sima Guang disagreed. He said that in the Spring and Autumn Period, senior officials of Chu, Quo, who liked this person to eat water chestnuts, but his son Qu Jian's sacrifice removed the rhombus, and he believed that he could not offend the country's festival because of his personal preferences. What's more, when the son is an emperor, but uses the etiquette of civilians to sacrifice his father?

Anyway, this historical material left us the daily life of Emperor Xuan Emperor Xiao Cheng.

Let's talk about the noodle cake. Before and after the middle of the Eastern Han Dynasty, there were two types of hair noodles in the Wei and Jin dynasties. The upper -level people especially love to eat fermented pasta. Jin Shu said that Quan Quan He Zeng was extravagant and luxurious. Judging from the historical materials of Emperor Nanqi Xuan Emperor who loves to eat noodle cakes, Jiangnan has also been popular with food -free fermentation technology.

In terms of the production of ducks, iron pots have been popularized during the Qin and Han dynasties, and laws such as tormenting and boiling have also appeared. The previously popular methods of cooking and steaming were continued to be used. Wine, vinegar, sauce, sauce, clear, salt, sugar and other seasonings have been manufactured; pepper, cinnamon, ginger, green onion, garlic, mustard, leeks, 薤, perilla, dogwood, 蓼 and other new seasonings also use It is very familiar.

Therefore, this bowl of ducks of the Emperor Nan Qi will not be unpalatable.

The meaning of the pre -Qin dumplings is extremely extensive, including cooking meat, juice, pure meat, and soup. After the Han Dynasty, the main name was the special name of the soup. Most of the soups of soup are mostly added with rice dandruff (糁). Essence This bowl of ducks in Nanqi Xuan Emperor must be made with a cricket. What else is there in this bowl of duck? We do n’t know how to make it, but we ca n’t restore it, but there is a duck ravioli in Jiangnan. Now it has become a traditional famous dish in Jiangsu Province.

The Suzhou poet Lu Guimeng of the Tang Dynasty lived in Satsuki, Songjiang, and he raised ducks and ducks, while his wife Jiang was good at being a duck. The braised duck she made is excellent. Once, Lu Turtle Meng and Pi Ri had drink together, but after drinking the ducks, they finished eating, so Jiang was cleaned and cut the duck in the duck, and made a "duck" with ginkgo fruit, which was delicious. This dish is known as "Fu Li Duck", which has been circulating to this day. Of course, the current approach is more complicated than Jiang's, and the seasoning is richer.

Source: Zi Niu News Micro Historical Records

Edit: Qin Xiaoyi

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