Why do you say that Shanxi knives are particular about the noodles

Author:Look at the think tank Time:2022.08.10

Recently, many netizens opened the map and found that the Shanxi knives have opened all over my country. In order to find this hometown cuisine, the map flashed.

The knife noodles, originating the "noodles of pasta" Shanxi Province, are the most prestigious noodle snacks in the local area.

Even in the endless food layer, Shanxi knife noodles still occupy important seats in the food circle.

Text | Yu Yuan

This article is reproduced from the WeChat public account "China News Weekly" (ID: chinanewsweekly). The original first was released on August 9, 2022. View.

"King of Pasta"

Sanjin's land is known as "the hometown of Chinese pasta". There are more than 280 types of pasta that can be checked. Among them, the knife noodles of the "spokesperson" as the "spokesperson" of Shanxi can be called the world.

Image source: Picture ｜ Picture insect creativity

Regarding the origin of the knife noodles, there is a legendary folklore. According to legend, more than 800 years ago, after the Yuan Dynasty general Mu Huali led tens of thousands of cavalry to capture Taiyuan, in order to prevent the locals from resisting, they set up a "limited knife order" to confiscate all metal knives, including kitchen knives, It also stipulates that ten households and one mile, a kitchen knife in ten miles, each use it in turn, and then use it to return it.

One day, an old lady of a family was reconciled, and her wife asked her wife to borrow a knife. Since the knife has been borrowed, the old man can only return empty -handed. When he took the door of Bao Chang's house, he was tripped by the threshold.

In the past, the houses in Shanxi had a threshold. In order to resist wear, the threshold was wrapped in iron. The old man picked up a thin iron skin, and took it home without much thought.

The old lady saw that her wife only took back the iron -breaking skin, so she had to wash it as a knife. But the iron sheet is too soft and no blade. So the old Hangton gave birth to the old lady to "cut" the leaves on the dough, and then cook it in the pan, and pour the braisedzes.

A bowl of smooth tendons, do not have a delicious knife noodle.

The knife noodles are named after the production technology -when the noodles are cut, the master stands at the pot with the dough with one hand, holding the knife in one hand, and the boiling soup pot, cricket, and cricket, and quickly cut off the leaves, flying into the pot one after another into the pot in the pot one after another, and fly into the pot one after another into the pot. Essence The cooked knife noodles, the entrance is smooth, whether it is cold, hot stir -fry, or with fresh soup, a variety of rich marinade, and dripping some old Shanxi old vinegar.

At the same time as eating noodles, if you can watch the noodles of the noodles of the knife, it will be a beautiful enjoyment. There are noodle performances in many Shanxi noodle restaurants, some can accurately hang the noodles on a rope, and some can cut the noodles to a smaller area from a long distance. It is amazing to cut into the teapot mouth.

To this day, the knife noodles have already gone abroad and the world. In the 1990s, the knife noodles were introduced into Japan. At present, only in Tokyo, there are more than a hundred high -end restaurants that are mainly cutting noodles.

In December 2015, the first Shanxi Dao Noodle Restaurant was taken root in Los Angeles and officially opened.

Industrialization lag

For the craftsmanship and history, the knife noodles do not lose any kind of pasta in China, but when it comes to industrial development, it is not as good as its neighbor -Lanzhou beef noodles.

In the past few years, pasta tracks have been upgraded. According to the company's investigation data, the rice noodles financing incidents in 2021 were over 12, of which the beef noodles were the most "fragrant".

Public information shows that from May to December 2021, only three beef noodle brand financing of Chen Xianggui, Ma Keyong, and Zhang Lala only exceeded 5 times, and each round of financing was more than 100 million yuan. On the other hand, Shanxi knife noodles could not be found together.

On the scale of the industry, Shanxi knife noodles are far less than Lanzhou beef noodles. According to the data of the Tore Leopard Research Institute, the market size of the Chinese knife-cutting industry in 2017-2021 increased from 2.36 billion yuan to 5.94 billion yuan, with a compound annual growth rate of 26.00%.

However, according to the data of Lanzhou Commerce Bureau, there are currently more than 40,000 "Lanzhou Beef Ramen Museum" across the country with an annual turnover of 60 billion yuan.

Wen Zhihong, an expert in the chain industry, told reporters that the Shanxi knife noodles are not favored by capital. One is that there is no leading enterprise driven. "The premise of industrialization is enterprise, and then it is possible to market."

Data show that the number of chain brands in Shanxi knife -cutting noodles is large from the Lanzhou ramen. Narrow door catering data shows that the number of chain brands across the country in Shanxi Dao Noodles is only 21, while Lanzhou Ramen has only 242 chain brands in Lanzhou. The research data of the Head Panther Research Institute also verified this. The brand chain rate of the knife -cutting industry was only 1.77%, which was far lower than the average chain rate of Chinese catering 15%, and there was no real head brand and enterprise in the industry.

Feng Shourui, president of the Shanxi Cooking Catering Hotel Industry Association, summarized this: Shanxi knife face facing the development problem of "weak and small".

Even if the "Jiu Mao Nine", which has been listed on the listing of noodles from Shanxi, has developed for many years, and now it is no longer focused on pasta. On the contrary, through the "go to Shanxi noodles", it has moved to the group of groups operated by multiple brands. Essence Throughout Jiu Mao Jiu Group, the "Jiu Mao Jiu" brand is far less than that of too much di -saurea.

Secondly, the government has insufficient support for the knife cutting industry. Taiyuan Teachers College mentioned in the article "Shanxi Catering Industry Competitiveness Improvement Path Study". This mentioned that the development of Shanxi's catering industry requires the government's attention and the government needs to introduce the policy and system to support the development of the catering industry. Sichuan, Hunan and other provinces have taken the catering industry as the regional 100 billion output value industry. Many policies and systems have been introduced. The Shanxi Provincial Government should also introduce policies to encourage the development of the catering industry.

Although Shanxi has also issued relevant policies. For example, the "Implementation Opinions on Accelerating the Development of the Catering and Catering Industry in 2017", the policy is not a system, it is difficult to land, and it cannot play a supporting role.

A local catering practitioner in Shanxi believes that this is related to the industrial structure of Shanxi. He said that the Shanxi economy has long been dominated by the energy industry such as coal, and the ability to make money in the catering service industry obviously cannot be compared with the energy industry, so it is difficult to obtain government attention.

Standardized troubled knife cutting

Behind the poor development of the Shanxi knife noodle industry is the low degree of standardization, which is also the development bottleneck of the entire Chinese food industry.

Image source: Picture ｜ Picture insect creativity

Feng Shourui told reporters that standardization is an important option for Chinese food to reach the stage of high -quality development. At a certain stage, the product needs to be guided from the scientific level so that it can be standardized, as is the knife surface.

In August 2016, the local standards of the "Shanxi knife Noodles Production" were officially implemented. Among them, the equipment, tools, raw materials, sensing and production processes were clearly stipulated. Do not leave the face, do not leave the knife ... "But the difficulty of scoring the face is still difficult.

The first is noodles. Wang Zhanglong, the winner of the National May Day Labor Medal and the director of Noodle Arts of Shanxi Huanhe Catering Culture Co., Ltd., introduced to China News Weekly. Compared with other pasta, the knife noodles are considered a chef's knife worker, paying attention to "the knife is inseparable, and the noodles are inseparable."

A good noodle master can cut out more than 200 noodles per minute, and the length, width and thickness of each noodle leaves are almost not bad. Each face is a small artwork, with thin and thin edges, clear edges and corners, and shaped like willow leaves.

There are generally two methods to solve the standardization of noodles, which generally cultivate talents, or implement them through machines. There were enterprises in Shanxi to promote noodle -cutting machines. At first, consumers would buy on early adopters, but due to the poor taste, the repurchase rate was not high; the training talents were time -consuming and labor -intensive. It is not cost -effective, so it restricts the replication of talents.

Bourry is another difficulty in the standardization of the knife surface. Most noodles in other parts of our country have a fixed match. If Lanzhou beef noodles are the mellow soup, and Shaanxi oil splash noodles are the hot spicy.

The Shanxi knife noodles are not the same. There are many choices of brine. For example, Datong people love pork dumplings to cut noodles, while Taiyuan people prefer small fried meat knives to cut noodles.

In Feng Shourui's opinion, Most of the Divizi is both an advantage and disadvantage. For consumers, there are many choices and stronger adaptability; but for enterprises, it has greatly improved the difficulty of standardization. "If the industry demand is scattered, it is difficult to form a joint force and cannot force upstream supply chain to be customized according to the needs of enterprises. At present, most stores' braisedzi still rely on chefs to fry itself, which greatly limits scale and efficiency."

Wen Zhihong said that the knife surface has category awareness to support, and at the same time, it is based on the mass consumer market. In the future, companies and governments will develop in both directions to run a big brand.

The priority is to do a good job of product positioning and product portfolio. "There are many tricks of knife noodles. According to the brand positioning, you should clarify the main product, and then make a product portfolio, which is conducive to further replication and standardization."

The noodles are the hometown of Shanxi people. Regardless of whether it is a native of Shanxi or wandering, a bowl of the most common knife is cut into the belly, and the authentic Shanxi taste can be used to the fullest. At this moment, the knife noodles are the incarnation of the home.

Are you hungry after reading it? Go and eat a bowl of noodles!

Reference materials:

Why can't Shanxi run a national pasta brand? Dining owner internal reference, 2022-05-20

Where is the neglecting Shanxi knife noodle? Head Leopard Research Institute, 2022-07-01

Shanxi catering industry competitiveness improvement path research, Journal of Taiyuan Teachers College, 2019-09

Shanxi knife noodles, China Three Gorges, 2022-03-15

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