Compared with plagiarism, we should pay more attention to how to protect the beauty of traditional culture

Recently, a skirt of Dior, a well -known foreign fashion brand, fell into a "plagiarism" storm.

Some netizens questioned that a skirt released by Dior was suspected of plagiarizing my country's traditional costume horse noodle skirt. "Dior Plagiarism" related topics also rushed to the hot search list.

The topic does not fall and continues to ferment.

The cause of the incident is that some netizens found that a black long skirt from the early autumn series from Dior 2022 obviously adopts two -piece and pleated design, which is very similar to traditional Chinese clothing horse -noodle skirts.

How similar is it? Some netizens made a comparison.

Similarity contrast

Picture source: Weibo@图 only seven two

In fact, in the cultural field, it is understandable to learn from different cultural elements and then innovate. However, Dior's product caused questioning that only the "inspirational source" in its product introduction is not mentioned, which is called "new" fashion items that "use the iconic Dior silhouette".

"Dreditable but not admit", this is the key point that most netizens question, and even anger.

As of now, Dior has not responded to the matter, but the official website of Dior China has not been able to search for this skirt. On the official website of Dior overseas, this half -body skirt is still on sale.

How special is the horse's skirt?

Horse face skirt, also known as "horse fold skirt", is one of the main skirts of ancient Han women in ancient China. It has a unique structure. There are four skirt doors on the front and back inside and outside. , Two or two stacked, the middle skirt door is overwhelmed, so the actual effect is two pieces.

Horse face skirt shape drawing

The "horse noodle" comes from the raised part of the ancient city wall defense system. The "horse noodle skirt" is named after the "horse noodle". The horseshuman skirt is a trapezoid as a whole, narrowed and wide, and it is spread. The more pleated on both sides, the greater the arc of the fan.

Picture source: Weibo @buoenandesen

On the other hand, the "horse -faced skirt" develops a self -spin skirt, and the initial purpose of the spin is indeed needed by women. Song "Jiang neighborhood magazine" contains: "Women are not convinced of lenients and 襜, and the spiral skirt must open back and forth to take a donkey." Because wearing a "skirt + pants", the skirt of the spiral skirt is just placed in front and back, Although it is open, it is not afraid of the risk of glowing. Due to practical and convenient wearing, not only is it gradually popular among women, but men also wear it.

Picture source: Weibo@图 图

The horse -noodle skirt originated in Song, but it was popular in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and it gradually evolved from a functional clothing to fashion items.

In the Ming Dynasty, women of all strata liked to wear horse -up skirts very much. The simple Ming Dynasty horse -noodle skirt has a large and wide skirt, often decorated with skirts, and its skirts are diverse and rich in meaning: animal patterns, such as dragon and phoenix Peony represents wealth, chrysanthemum represents Yishouyan, lotus represents Yu Jiebingqing, and it is also the decoration of Buddhism.

Ming Blue Two Branches Four Seasons Flower Weaving Golden Make -up Satis Satal Skirt Shandong Museum Collection

Blue entanglement four seasons flower weaving golden makeup satin skirt partial

Understand the dark flower gauze embroidered bird pattern skirt Shandong Museum Collection

White dark flower gauze embroidered bird pattern skirt

Picture source: Shandong Museum

With the changes in the times, the color, materials, and patterns of horse -faced skirts have changed many of the historical trends, but the structure of "horse noodles" has always existed. It wasn't until the 1920s and 1930s that the horse -noodle skirt gradually faded out of the daily wear of the Chinese.

Local

It can be seen that the silhouette, craftsmanship and version of the horse -noodle skirt are unique to traditional Chinese costumes. It can be seen from the history of development that horse -noodle skirts have not appeared in the costumes of other countries and ethnic groups.

The design of Guan Dior can almost be said to be a simplified "horse noodle skirt", but it has changed the length and lace, and there is no decoration.

Picture source: Weibo@图 图

So can we determine "plagiarism" accordingly?

Lawyers said that traditional costumes like horse noodle skirts often do not have a special market entity to apply for intellectual property rights. If there are already merchants who have applied for and obtained patents on horse noodle skirts or similar designs, patterns, etc. It is suspected of infringement. If there is no merchant who obtained a patent, it does not constitute infringement because there is no right of rights.

Qing Zhu Hongping Embroidered Peacock Tattoo Masan Skirt Beijing Folk Museum Collection

In 1981, Princess Diana was wearing a red horse -made skirt while attending the dinner. At that time, the press release wrote a Chinese embroidery skirt

In fact, for reference, it is very common in the field of culture and art, but the creator explained that the "inspirational source" of the work is also a "rules" and a basic professional literacy.

Under the details of the same style as the Chinese horse -like skirt, the practice of "inspiration" is not mentioned, which is essentially disrespect for Chinese culture.

China has a splendid traditional culture, and the Chinese have always been happy to see that their cultural elements have been used and loved, but respecting and understanding each other's culture should be the premise and due attitude.

2015 Armani Gao Ding was inspired by "bamboo" and used many Chinese elements

More people use "cultural misappropriation" to comment on Dior's line.

Cultural approprification generally refers to the phenomenon of using or invading the vulnerable culture under the premise of misunderstanding and disrespectful culture of a strong cultural group. The field of culture and fashion is even more "severely disaster -stricken areas." Strong European and American cultures are common to other cultures.

However, compared to the commercial plagiarism determination, the judgment of cultural misappropriation is even more difficult. It is more based on our moral judgment standards. The Dior 2017 Autumn and Winter series is accused of embezzling the traditional national costumes of the Birohol region in Romania, and only the "sources of inspiration" are not mentioned.

In 2019, the LV brand home chair appeared in the Mexican national color embroidery pattern. It was interviewed by the local government. Finally, LV removed this product

The brand -shaping brand launched by the US Net Red Gold Cardishan was named "Kimono", but this word means kimono, and was immediately opposed by a large number of Japanese netizens. Rename

Behind the storm of the Dior Taman skirt, we can still see the awakening of Chinese cultural consciousness.

In recent years, our attitude and cognition of traditional culture have also changed greatly. In fact, the improvement of a horse -like skirt is not the "sudden appearance" of Dior today, but the attempt that Chinese people have already done. In terms of Hanfu, as more and more people like Hanfu, many merchants and enthusiasts are no longer limited to "restore" or "dressing like ancient people", but to make them "modernize", use new improvements and matching To solve the daily wear problems of traditional clothing, when it comes to the traditional style, the impression of "rustic" and "old -fashioned" has become a fashionable "national style" and "national tide".

The picture on the left is DIOR product display, and the picture on the right is Hanfu's "main waist outside+medium and long horse noodles".

Middle -length weaving golden horse noodle map source "Binbin Sin"

Whether it is the stunning twenty -four solar terms of the Winter Olympics, or the more exquisite traditional elemental cultural and creative products in the Wenbo Exhibition Hall. More people began to realize that "the original clear source" to understand the traditional origin, aesthetics, and ideas in order to make the beauty of traditional culture more charming; "returning to daily" allows traditional to get out of the museum into life, so that traditional culture can be more vibrant.

Behind the dispute over clothing, the recognition of traditional culture is revived, reflecting the confidence of culture. I hope that more people will take care of traditional culture and re -discover the beauty of traditional culture.

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