A goose, Tao only belongs to the secret taste of Yangzhou people

Author:Xinhua Daily Time:2022.07.19

As the "capital of the world", one of Yangzhou's most mass -based cuisine -saltwater goose, with its unique cooking methods and excellent flavors. Yangzhou has a long history of raising goose, and it has been very popular as early as the Tang Dynasty. The well -known Tang poetry name "There is a land to cut bamboo, and no goose does not support goose", which is Yao He's field feelings in "Yangzhou Spring Ci". Kangxi and Yongzheng's "Yangzhou Prefecture" volumes are "goose ducks", and the "Goose" of "The Renewal of the Republic of China".

Thanks to the rich accumulation of history and the influence of market tide, now in Yangzhou, goose has become the "cuisine" of the young and old, the "weapon" of the industry and the "element" of cultural color.

Yangzhou Old Goose

Goose Food: Fragrance of tooth cheeks, long aftertaste

In Yangzhou, no goose is not a banquet. More than 1600 years ago, the Northern Wei Jia Sihuan's "Qi Min Yao Shu" recorded that the Yangzhou people used goose to cook at that time. In the Ming Dynasty, goose meat was the most popular dish in Yangzhou. The rouge goose preserved in "Dream of Red Mansions" was a Yangzhou cuisine loved by people. At present, there are 4,500 salt -water goose stalls in Yangzhou, and 20 million in Yangzhou saltwater goose are produced and sold throughout the year.

Yangzhou old geese usually refer to Yangzhou salt water goose, the most famous of which is the "Yellow Old Goose". The former Yijiang District of the Yinjiang District (now merged into Fangxiang Town) adjacent to Shaobo Lake, the lake beach is vast, and the water is beautiful, providing a rich food source for the goose. The flocks of raising goose are eaten most of the fresh grass and tender grass there. In the words of the local people, the duck grew up eating omnivorous, and the goose grew up eating hundreds of grass. Therefore, the goose meat is the cleanest and the most beneficial to the liver. The results of modern studies show that goose meat is rich in the human body's multiple amino acids, vitamins and trace elements, and the protein content is high and the fat amount is low. Frequent consumption is very beneficial to health. For Yangzhou people like to eat goose, they have found the basis for science.

The production skills of Huang Yan and the old goose are mainly family inheritance for decades, and in modern times, they have evolved in the inheritance of teachers and apprentices. Among them, the inheritance of the Zhang family is particularly authentic. Around the middle of the Qing Dynasty (1750), Zhang made a saltwater duck near Jiaozhuang Wharf in Huangyu Town, and became famous. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Zhang Hengxia, Zhang Changzhao's father and son inherited the ancestral industry, opened a "Zhengxingyuan" restaurant in Huangye Town, and made cooked saline goose ducks. It has experienced six generations so far. According to Zhang Yupeng, the representative inheritor of the immortal cultural heritage of Huangzhang Old Goose, Zhang Yupeng, in the 1960s, the grain was tight in the 1960s. Fewer and less ducks with fish and shrimp and rice were more and less. Many villagers began to raise geese.

Because the goose cost is relatively low, it eats grass and does not cost food. It is limited to raw materials. In August 1990, after graduating from high school, Zhang Yupeng officially began to follow his father Zhang Guangzhu to learn the old goose and master his unique skills. Later, he further improved the traditional skills. The types of spices have been expanded from 5 types to 9 currents. Around 1980, it was led by the Huang Yan Subject Company. The Zhang family set up 12 stalls in Yangzhou. It was 7 years as soon as it was done. Later, Zhang Yupeng took over the family business. He first opened a store in Wenfeng Road, Yangzhou City to operate the Yellow Poor Goose. Later, due to the demolition, he moved to the south gate of Yangzhou Development Road in Yangzhou to operate. He had a considerable influence in Yangzhou.

Yellow Yue Old Goose Exhibition Hall

The most special part of the Zhang's salt -water goose production skills is the marinade formula. All of them are used for natural green raw materials. After configuration is configured in a certain proportion, put it in the pot with gauze. Steaming the pot must be discharged vertically, not lying horizontally, and then cover the lid to leak air. The cooking is mainly old halogen, and it is constantly mixed with new juice. Zhang's marinade has a long history, mellow taste, overflowing aroma, and endless aftertaste. The old soup old rice has been used to use the old brine of salt water ducks. It has been decades for decades. The production process focuses on the grasp of the fire. Generally, the fire is attacked to make it familiar, and then the fire is screamed to make it rot. Although the goose out of the pan is still cooked, the shape is full, not hard or rotten, the goose body contains moderate halogen, making the food feel that the mouth is full of fragrance. In fact, the accurate grasp of all the needs of the producers for many years of experience accumulation. In Yangzhou, the "Huang Yan (salt) old goose" must be slaughtered on the day and processed on the same day, and it will be sold on the same day, otherwise the taste will be greatly reduced.

In recent years, although the old goose in Yangzhou has derived a number of genres, it has not been separated from its ancestors. The difference is the selection of raw materials and the recipe of marinade. For example, compared with the old goose of "Lingtang", the taste is lighter and has a typical halal characteristics, which is closely related to the folk customs of the Lingtang Hui Township.

It is worth mentioning that in the 21st century, on the road to the streets of the food in Qijiang District, "eating and not forgetting old goose" is all the rage. The slogan of its stalls is "worth this one, no branches." As soon as the stall opened every afternoon, the diners lined up. The owner Zhu Shisine believes that the advantage of "eating and not forgetting the old goose" is that the selection of materials is special. They have established a special acquisition base in Shandong, Liaoning and other places. It is conducive to fat accumulation, so "eating and not forgetting old goose" is obviously more tender than old goose.

Goose Economy: Technology is powerful, industrial supporting

The goose is all treasures. Except for goose meat, its hairy feathers, like duck down, belong to the precious raw materials for making down jackets. In fact, the goose economy can form several industrial chains, including incubation, breeding, food processing, and clothing production. There is a saying in agriculture, "Good seedlings are good, good seedlings are harvested", and the goose economy is the same. Its prosperity cannot be separated from excellent varieties with strong anti -inverse resistance, high feed remuneration, and good economic traits. The goose industry is a traditional characteristic industry in Yangzhou. It has rich natural resources and strong technical foundations, has long -term accumulated practical experience, and has a strong market. In order to increase the benefits of goose, increase farmers' income, meet market demand, and promote the development of animal husbandry and even the entire rural economy, Yangzhou introduced the development and utilization of Sichuan Longchang Goose (that is, Sichuan White Goose) in 1990. In 1996, under the auspices of Zhao Wanli, a professor at the Yangzhou University Institute of Animal Husbandry and Veterinary Medicine, the Yangchang goose and meat of the Yangchang goose and flesh of the Yangtze Rural House and Veterinary College of Animal Husbandry and Veterinary and Veterinary and Veterinary and Veterinary Medicine (now Agricultural and Rural Bureau) Taihu Goose, which is good, has many eggs, has no nesting, and white goose western Anhui conducts hybrid tests and measures. It has selected a better combination for anti -intersections and recovery, and then screened a best combination to carry out generation selection. After years of concentration of research and hard work, it has been cultivated in a new place for good breeding geese. In August 2002, the geese species was approved by the Provincial Polls Variety Committee and was officially named "Yangzhou Goose". In July 2006, the National Livestock Variety Development Committee set "Yangzhou Goose" as a national variety.

Goose is a herbivorous animal. There are more people in Yangzhou area. In addition, the increasingly strengthening protection of governments at all levels in recent years has led to smaller the space for goose. Facing such a background, "planting grass and raising goose" has become a countermeasure to solve problems. Adult goose needs about 0.3 pounds of feed and 3 to 4 catties of grass a day, and a year needs to eat about 1100 ~ 1460 catties of grass. If the more high -yielding Huangzhu grass, sweet elephant grass and Mexican corn grass, one acre can get 30,000 to 40,000 kg of fresh grass a year. Ten acres of land can be able to nurture 200 ~ 300 adult goose. If it is a mother goose, it can produce 60 eggs a year. If you raise 300 geese, you can produce 18,000 eggs a year, creating a benefit income of 126,000 yuan, which is obviously much more cost -effective than pure breeding grain.

Grass and goose

Qiu Yangyi, Executive Vice President and Secretary -General of Yangzhou Cooking Catering Industry Association, believes that unlike the goose flavor in other regions, the flavor of Yangzhou salt and geese is mainly salt, and the flavor reserved in the cooking process has formed. Features of salt water goose. For Yangzhou citizens, large and small goose stalls are very common. According to statistics, Yangzhou people consume 20 million salt and goose a year. Each year, 70%of the nationwide goose "fly" to Yangzhou, and is made into Yangzhou salt water goose or wind geese to "fly". Sky goose, Yangzhou flavor. It is with the production skills of Yangzhou's salt and water goose that allows salt water goose to form an industry, while driving the scale and industrialization of the goose industry.

At present, about 60 million goose industries in Yangzhou wind goose industry have introduced many geese raised in Shandong, Hebei and other places on the basis of processing "Yangzhou Goose". In Yangzhou, the stalls selling old geese, streets and alleys, flowering everywhere. According to statistics from the Market Supervision and Administration Bureau of Lijiang District, by June 2022, only 238 old goose stalls in Yijiang District. At 10 am, the stall owners leave the stalls on time at 5 pm, and the wind and rain are unobstructed throughout the year. Yangzhou people eat old geese, just like home often. As long as you are happy, as long as you want to eat, visit the family, go to the street, you can see the old goose stalls everywhere, the front blade of the goose, the goose hind legs, the goose and neck, the goose's claw wings, the goose blood intestines, the foie gras, etc. Choose, call it well, chop, install, poured meal, pay money in one hand, carry the old goose with one hand, and the three or five confidants, push the cup and change the cup, the wine or rice, which is convenient and comfortable. These inconspicuous stalls only created annual sales of over 3 billion yuan by selling old geese and wind goose alone.

Yangzhou Goose has been on the economy for half an hour

Under the tide of the Internet era, the owners of the Yangzhou goose stalls did not stand on their own, and the large and small stalls were almost equipped with vacuum packaging services. Zhang Yupeng opened the market outside the cooked passenger through WeChat, and also opened the vibrato account, posted a video of making salt goose, and won the attention of tens of thousands of fans. The saline goose he made is transported to all parts of the country through logistics. Among the 96 apprentices of Zhang Yupeng, the farthest is the store in Australia. Jiayu Food Company, located in Fangxiang Town, has a complete production line of salt -water goose self -supporting, self -producing, and self -selling. The professional production line of high -temperature disinfection has extended the sheet's shelf life to 30 days, and the current annual sales have reached about 200 tons. And the goose they use is an authentic Yangzhou goose. The company forms a whole industrial chain process of breeding, slaughtering, and deep processing. The output value of this goose is tens of millions of yuan a year.

Wang Yuxin, president of the Municipal Tourism Association, believes, "Yangzhou is moving from traditional to modern, and the production and sales of Yangzhou old geese will move from the past small workshops to large factories, from the production of traditional experience to standardized production; Methods, production and marketing methods, and technology assistance to make Yangzhou taste not only nourish Yangzhou people, but also nourish the people in the world, so that everyone can improve happiness in the process of enjoying the old goose of Yangzhou. "

Goose Culture: The source is long, colorful

In the tomb of the Shang Dynasty in Anyang, Henan, three jade geese were found, indicating that as early as the Shang Dynasty, the domestication was domesticated. Many of China's ancient books on agriculture have records of domestication, breeding, selection, breeding, management, processing, and circulation of geese. In ancient China, it has accumulated very rich experience in goose and goose. In the Northern Wei Dynasty's "Qi Min Yao Xun · Raising Goose Duck", the selection, incubation, breeding, slaughtering and goose products of the geese have a comprehensive introduction. Goose, the unique temperament of the actions, the elegant appearance, the elegant appearance, and the ingenuity, has always been loved by men, women, and children, and also conforms to the aesthetic characteristics of literati. The famous sentences of the Tang Dynasty poet Luo Bin -"Goose, Goose, Goose, Goose, Qu Xiang Xiang Tian Song, White Hair floating green water, red palm plucking green waves" can be described as popular, women and children know. In Yangzhou, people are respectful to the old goose. They do not need goose characters as derogatory words. For example, "dumb geese" is to describe honest and cute, "goose egg face" describes women dignified and beautiful, "goose pebbles" describe the smooth and beautiful stone, and so on. Yangzhou people also like to eat goose meat. On the New Year's Day and wedding happy events, there must be two geese on the table. One is the old goose of Huangye, and the other is the old goose of the braised goose. There is a saying of "no geese".

In the old days, in the customs of sending rituals in the Dragon Boat Festival, the old goose was the essential thing for the son -in -law and mother -in -law. Acting poet Li Shangyin's "Title Goose" Poetry: "Sleeping sand lying water is self -made, and the shore of the vats is Pu Yun. True portrayal.

Picking goose hawkers and people who walk with goose walking in "Qingming Shanghe Tu"

The goose is large and the ears are extremely sensitive, and they are more brave in poultry. When a stranger comes at home, the goose will keep yelling loudly, and even chase people pecking. However, because the goose's mouth is flat and the teeth are not sharp, their harm is not great. Farmers raising goose as a home nursing home is not to hurt people, but only as an outsider invading the owner.

There are a thousand Hamlet in the eyes of a thousand people, and one thousand Yangzhou people also have a thousand kinds of old geese. Some like salty freshness, some prefer crispy, and some love heavy oil ... Although "Yangzhou Old Goose" cannot get in the elegant hall, it has a strong taste of the hometown -simplicity, making it difficult for each Yangzhou person to be difficult forget.

In 2022, the birthplace of "Huang Jian Old Goose" — Fangxiang Town United Village In order to inherit and carry forward the non -heritage skills Goose's "past life" allows visitors not only to experience the production of old goose, but also taste the taste of goose and understand the goose culture. The establishment of the exhibition hall will continue to release the agglomeration effect of Huang Jian's old geese processing, continuously enhance the influence of the yellow old goose brand, and let the "Huang Yue Old Goose" continue to be brilliant on the stage of rural rejuvenation.

Old goose

(Author: Tan Qian Unit is the Party History Office of the Party History of Yangzhou City, Yangzhou City, and Chen Wanming Units Department in Fangxiang Town, Fangxiang District, Yangzhou City)