The boiled meat that is eaten by the Fuchun River catfish and Su Dongpo, known for "King of Fish" ...
Author:Fuyang Daily Time:2022.07.19
Seven things opened, Chai rice oil and salt sauce vinegar tea. After all, it is for a "eating" word. Eating is a human nature. Whether it is a talented woman or a trafficking, they can't escape a "eating". Therefore, in the Song of the Song people, a faint fireworks are always hidden. In the lines, we can capture the shadow of Fuyang cuisine. You said, is this a fate?
The dancing music table a thousand years ago was not available. Only those wine and noodle rice hidden in ordinary lanes were inherited under the persistence of a generation of artists. Let us have the opportunity to taste the deliciousness that the Song people once praised, and let us have a little soul resonance between us and Su Dongpo and Lu You. This is not a fate.
Ginger purple vinegar scorching silver fish
▲ Jiangxian Conference "Jiangxian First Pot" Zhu Xiaochen/Photo
In the thirteenth year of the Southern Song Dynasty (1186), Lu You, a 61 -year -old who lived in Shanyin for five years, was re -enabled by the court and appointed Yanzhou Zhizhou. After Lu You resigned from Song Xiaosong to Lin'an, he took a small boat to go up from the Qiantang River, and then lived in Yupu at the intersection of the Qiantang River, Fuchun River and Puyang River for one night. In the setting sun, the landscapes at that time were beautiful, and of course Lu You was also in a beautiful mood, so he sent out the emotion of "Yupu Rivers and Mountains".
After several days, Luyou, Zhizhou, Yanzhou accompanied a group of guests to visit Yan Ziling. After breaking up with everyone, the old poet slept on the boat, and when he woke up, he remembered his experience in Yupu. However, what made him dream more was the dinner he ate on the fishing ship.
"Xiaoyao and rich spring rice, let the waves of fishing fish. Send Lao Shuiyun Township, do not think of custody."
On the boat, it is naturally impossible to eat meat. However, Jiangxian tube is enough. The fish from the Fresh fishing from the Fuchun River is very beautiful no matter how burned. It is matched with the rotten wild vegetables, spray fragrance, and hangs the appetite. A hot bowl of lower stomach is so delicious, where can I think about eating meat?
When it comes to the fish in the Fuchun River, there is no bentfish. The catfish is known as the "king of the fish", and the catfish is the best in the Fuchun River catfish. "Elegant Freedom" cloud: "An arrow fish in catfish, thin bones under the abdomen like arrow clusters. The rich spring is beautiful." The catfish returning from the sea to the Fuchun River, the fish scale is stored with rich fat , Plum and soft, the taste is excellent. In the early Eastern Han Dynasty, when Yan Ziling proposed to Liu Xiu to return to Fuyang's seclusion, the reason given was that he couldn't bear the catfish in the Fuchun River.
Like Yan Ziling, Mei Yaochen, a famous Northern Song Dynasty, is also one of the fans of catfish.
"In April, the fish Zhuo waves, the fishing boat did not go home. The fat and fat did not enter the mouth, a handful of copper coins took advantage of the paddle."
Mei Yaochen is the son -in -law of Xie Tao from Fuyang. Near the water tower first got the moon, and married a wife who grew up on the side of Fuchun River, the catfish naturally became his food.
Da Wenhao Su Dongpo also likes to use catfish. The people in the Song Dynasty liked to get the name of the puppet. According to "Tu Ding Ji" records: "Its sex scales, one with the network value, the post is not moving, and the scales are also protecting the scales.
"Bud ginger purple vinegar is burned with silver fish, and the snow bowl engine comes more than two feet. There is still a peach blossom spring gas, which is better than bass."
Su Dongpo eats catfish and likes to use the method of burning, that is, barbecue. In the Song Dynasty, all four cooking techniques were popular with frying, frying, cooking, and frying, and more complex cooking techniques such as explosive, slipping, stewing, pickling, and halogen were gradually mature, but the Song Dynasty favorite is still the same. Burning. That's how the idiom "popular" comes.
。 Is actually sashimi. The Chinese have a long history of eating sashimi, and in the Book of Songs, there is the content of "炰 脍 中国". According to legend, Sun Quan, a rich man, also likes to eat sashimi. He has discussed with the warlock to discuss what fish is the best fish fillet, and it is recommended to recommend catfish. Sun Quan sighed that the catfish came out in the East China Sea, which was expected to be unable to reach. So the image made people dug a small pit in the center of the hall, filled with water, and then fishing from the puddle.
However, most of the sashimi eaten by the Song people was made of freshwater fish, such as carp, catfish, sea bream, bass, etc., and Liu Yan, the Northern Song Dynasty, said that "catfish is like jade first." The people of the Song Dynasty called the raw fish slices as "fish", and the various types of fish with a very thin film were a beautiful food in the eyes of the Song Dynasty gourmet. It is expected that sometimes they are eaten with ginger garlic and vinegar. Su Dongpo, Lu You, Ouyang Xiu, Mei Yaochen and other Song dynasties are loyal enthusiasts of fish. The fish in the Fuchun River may not eat less.
Qianjin -Gosh wine paid spring breeze
Eating the fatty Chunjiang fresh is the most pure rice wine. Lu You loves to drink rice wine in Fuyang. He wrote in the word "Recalling Qin'e": "Fuchun Lane Mo Hua is heavy. Qianjin -sell wine paid spring breeze. Remove the spring breeze. In Shengge Garden, the splendid cluster."
When the Southern Song Dynasty, Zheng Gangzhong passed the Qingjiangkou, was the season when the locals were hanging wine, and the wine was elegant.
"The pear jujube welcoming the cream tree to be yellow, and the new house of Mao Mao gradually became a way.
During the Song Dynasty, the method of making wine was very simple, that is, steaming rice, cooling, mixed with wine, fermenting it to a certain extent, the rice turned into grains, filter it with wine sieve, put it in the jar of the jar, put it in the jar Seal it, less, the moon, as many as one year. The wine brewed in this way is usually rice wine, and the degree is not high, usually around six degrees.
There is a student named Zhang Hao in Su Dongpo. According to himself: "The drinking apprentices in life can drink five liters of five liters, and there are no fighters ... If you fight all the best, you will be slightly stunned. "Wu Wu blame is to make up for it, and it is also one of the four bachelor of Sumen. His father, Tong Duanyou, has served as the county magistrate in Xincheng County. When Su Dongpo served as a general sentence in Hangzhou, he walked closely with his friends, and Baozhi also worshiped under Dongpo Gate. Wu Duanyou also saved a dinner and invited Su Dongpo to the support of Cuting Pavilion on Tashan.
By the way, in the early days, China implemented a "meal system", that is, one person, one table, everyone was sitting on the futon to eat. At the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, there was a chair. It was not until the Northern Song Dynasty that the habit of eating was completely transferred from the ground to the chair, and the food system of sitting together and eating together began to become popular, and the public chopsticks were born -the Song Dynasty people were also very hygienic.
Boil sunflower bamboo shoots, spring plowing
▲ Master of Shangguan Winter Bamboo Shoots Duo Li Zhi Steel/Photo
Su Dongpo is a public or private, and has repeatedly traveled to the new city road, leaving many popular poems. One of them is written like this.
"Dongfeng knows that I want to travel mountains, blowing the sound of rain between the eaves. Qingyun on the ridge, the tree head hangs the bronze cricket on the first day of the tree. Le, boil sunflower bamboo shoots spring plowing. "
The last sentence in the poem is different. Some people say it is "sunflower", and some people say it is "sung". Is it "sunflower" or "sung"? Speaking of which is not bad.
In the poem, it is actually a unique "Duck Palm Er", also known as "Duck Foot Board", which is also the other name of the sunflower. Bao Zhao, a writer during the Northern and Southern Dynasties, compared the sunflower to the ear and duck palm in "Garden Kwai Fu".
Sunflower is a common vegetable on the dining table of the Song people, and there is a saying of "the master of hundreds of dishes". The Song Dynasty poet Zhang Yan wrote in "Send Questions of the Three Church of the Shan Shan Three of the Xichang Yan Hou Mountain": "Cangtou Zhuo Wu Khan face the noodles, cook the sunflower leeks and cook the incense japonica."
Li Shizhen said in the "Compendium of Materia Medica": "Sunflowers, ancient people are often eaten, and those who are planted today are quite fresh." Obviously, in the Ming Dynasty, rare people were planted by sunflowers. The sunflower we see now is basically wild, so we are called wild celery.
Another ingredients mentioned in Su Dongpo's poems are bamboo shoots. As the second largest bamboo township in Zhejiang Province, the bamboo shoots are vegetables that are inseparable from the people on the table of Fuyang. According to Qing Guangxu's "Fuyang County Chronicle" records: "bamboo shoots, winter bamboo shoots, hair bamboo shoots, spring bamboo shoots, chicken bamboo shoots, ivory bamboo shoots, stalagmites, whip bamboo shoots and other names."
Bamboo bamboo shoots are known as the "first product of vegetarian food". In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, a monk was named Ning Zan, who wrote a "Bamboo Spectrum", starting from looking for bamboo shoots and digging bamboo shoots.
Su Dongpo is also a senior "fan" of bamboo shoots, and he once said: "It can make foodless meat, no bamboo, no bamboo, no meat, no bamboo." It is said that after hearing the Buddhist seals, haha Laughing, saying, "This is easy to handle, if you are not so thin, it is best to dinner and roast meat."
There is a person named Zhang Qinfu in the Southern Song Dynasty, and it is also a big food, especially the preserved bamboo shoots are very delicious. He also had a sense of intellectual property rights. He wrote the process of making the bamboo shoots like a delicious Coca -Cola making formula, and then hid tightly. His friend Zhang Xiaoxiang laughed at him: "Make Jun like to eat bamboo shoots, and the bamboo shoots are better than flesh. The secret method is unwilling to pass, and the private servant is closed behind closed doors." Later, Zhang Xiaoxiang finally got the formula and was happy to make a big fart: " Dejun's method is also very strange, and you will follow You Jin'er. "
There are many ways to do bamboo shoots. Li Yu, who once lived in Xindun Yu for a while, said: "Suitable white water, use fat pigs." That is to say, boiled in water is also delicious, and it is delicious with pork stew.
However, for Fuyang people, bamboo shoots are a versatile ingredients. They can be matched with any dishes, and they are delicious.
For example, the Fuyang people of the Song Dynasty liked to cut the bamboo shoots into shreds, and wrapped the timing of amaranth, Malan head, etc. to make spring rolls. Spring rolls, that's a very traditional cuisine. Spring rolls are also called spring cakes and spring plates. It was originally the main food of Lichun Day. "Four Shi Treasure Mirror" said: "Lichun, cannibal, spring cakes, lettuce, Spring Plate." In the Song Yuanliang's "The Year of the Song Dynasty", "Spring, Spring Cake, Lettuce, Spring Drive . "Lichun eats the spring plate. This is called bite spring. It is a traditional folk custom. It is the same reason that you need to eat dumplings with the Lantern Festival, you want to eat dumplings in the Dragon Boat Festival, and to eat moon cakes in the Mid -Autumn Festival. By the way, the dumplings are also the Song Dynasty. Only then did it start.
The Fuyang people of the Song Dynasty also liked to cut bamboo shoots into diced and wrap them into gluten. Glutiny is a special snack in Longmen. It is said that during the Northern Song Dynasty, the Sun clan built a "Sun Master Temple" in Longmen to commemorate the ancestor Sun Zhong. After the completion, the patriarch must provide offerings. One of the housewives was fried with fresh meat in the dough. The husband felt okay after trying, but the skin was not delicious. After the housewife plus the flour with water, remove the fine powder wheat skin, wrap fresh meat and leeks and fry it again. Ask the chief to taste it.
In the Song Dynasty, gluten was already a common food. In the Northern Song Dynasty scientist Shen Kuo wrote in "Mengxi Bi Tan": "Full of soft noodles, then the gluten is seen." Lu You also wrote in "Lao Xueyu Note": "Everything is honey. Cow milk and the like, all stain honey. "
Wang Yan, a poet in the Song Dynasty, praised him after eating gluten.
"The color is like cheese, and the taste of chicken and dolphin is good. Once chewed, Qingfang sweet teeth cheeks."
During the Song Dynasty, Fuyang also had a famous food in Dongwu Mountain.
Since the late Tang and Five Dynasties, the center of Chinese Buddhist culture has shifted from north to south. In particular, the master of Wu Yueguo strongly advocated that when the Song Dynasty, the Buddhism in Hangzhou was very developed.
At that time, many monks or nuns in Hangzhou, when they retired, liked to go to Dongwu Mountain to build a hall for pension, or "Tower in Dongwu", so a not small temple was formed in Dongwu Mountain. The group, the local villagers call it the "Nine Temples and Thirteen Temple", in fact, the real number is far more than that.
▲ Dongwu Mountain tofu skin
It is said that in a temple on the mountain, a little monk was grinding soy milk to make tofu. Because he was too focused on chanting, he missed the time to make tofu. This layer of skin was picked up and tasted, and the taste was much better than tofu, so he told the news about the news. The abbot is called "tofu coat", also known as "tofu skin" because it is as thin as cicada wings.
Later, tofu skin became the main industry of villagers in Dongwu Mountain. After the Southern Song Dynasty poet Zhang Shao praised the tofu skin.
"The beads are wet and wet, and made into a plain jacket. Boxing the sorrow of the square wall, the common white clothes are flying. The vegetable disk is used to the same sheep cool, like it is difficult to pick it. Milk, the frost knife does not cut the powder. "
Spring rolls, gluten, and tofu skin are all common foods we are now. We like the Song Dynasty because the Song Dynasty was closest to our modern life.
▲ Longmen oil gluten Li Zhi Steel/Photo
Therefore, the best life is actually at this time, here, here.
District Hiro / Wen
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