Hometown on the taste buds

In summer, people are often prone to loss of appetite. Most of them are thinner than usual, commonly known as "bitter summer". Therefore, in the summer, people change their eating habits, mainly cool, light, appetizing and refreshing. In this issue, the "Four Seasons of Four Seasons" wakes the reader's taste buds in the hometown, especially summer food, and use the authentic hometown cuisine to solve the faint nostalgia.

1

Soup

Songhe

Everyone understands the soup, but in my hometown of Hebei, it is more specific in Jizhong, but people are accustomed to "eating soup".

In the 1960s and 1970s in memory, nests, cakes, pastes and papers, and fire burned in the common food. The nest and cake are mostly steamed and pasted by the rod noodles, that is, the corn surface; it is also useful, if it is Xiaomi noodles, it is even more particular. The valley surface is made of valley without shelling. The paper is like a steamed bun, with two sides of the knife cut. The fire is a big cake. When doing these staple foods, there are also mixed noodles, valleys or noodles, and yam noodles, which are sorghum noodles and sweet potato noodles. Of course, in the city, especially in large cities, it is different from the dining table.

These "hard core" staple foods are collectively referred to as crickets. As for the sparse, it is stick porridge and Xiaomi soup. In summer, mung bean soup is indispensable, of course, porridge is also often drinking.

Dumplings and soup are very special food. The "soup" in my hometown is equivalent to noodles, so "eating soup" is not difficult to understand.

As for why it is called soup, some people say that in ancient times, people referred to pasta as cakes, and noodles and noodles of boiled water were soup cakes. There is no research on this, but from the ancient people to the poems of soup cakes, it can also be judged that it is indeed equivalent to noodles and is a very high -grade food, and it is also a summer seasonal diet. In Tang Liu Yuxi's poems, "the soup cake is given the captain, the ice is awarded the talent", combined with the previous sentence, "Zhu Qi welcomes summer morning, Liangxuan avoids the summer", and knows that this soup cake is undoubtedly summer food. In the poem of another song "Gift to the Scholars" in Liu Yuxi, there is a sentence of "lift the soup cake, and wish to add Qilin", and Song Su Shi He Shengzi's poem said, "I want to be a soup cigner, but I am sad. "Write the book", the poem of Yuanhao in the Song and Yuan dynasties also said, "I want to go for the soup cakes and buy Yanggu wine about when it will be about when I have a child. In Song Huangting's poems, "a cup of silver threads in the soup cake, and the number of artemisia seeds, the rampant jade", and described the shape of the soup cake, the noodles. If this soup is the continuation and simplification of the titles of the soup cake, the soup of the hometown really maintains the ancient style!

The soup is cold and cold.

Let's talk about the cold soup first, which is not only a food, but also a common choice for summer, especially Futian's meals. Calling cold soup, probably because the noodles that are rolled and cooked must be removed in the cold water basin. This soil is more glutinous, refreshing and smooth, and it is not easy to stick to the bowl. Coupled with hot halogen, it tastes tasteful. In the past, there were often people holding large bowls, standing or squatting, sitting under the trees in the courtyard, and even outside the door, enjoying the cold soup very much. Eat in winter, because it adds hot halogen, it is not cold. Poor gastrointestinal and intestines, especially those in the previous age, the noodles are not cold after cooking.

Eat cold soup in summer, cold dishes and hot rice can be prepared. What is common in the vegetable code is that the cucumber is supplemented by sesame sauce. You can also use the beans and leek to boil with boiling water and then cross cold water. Cut into sections and mix with hemp sauce or salt water, which is equivalent to mixing noodles. There is no hemp sauce, stir -fry sesame and roll it with salt water. Generally speaking, garlic juice is necessary. The ingredients of hot halogen are also different. In addition to the fat and thin meat diced, it is generally added with green onions or leeks, coriander, mung bean sprouts or soaked soybeans, peanuts, and garlic, eggplant diced or so on. Or the vegetables of the hand are different. Of course, adding some mushrooms or fungus or shreds is even better. There is no meat, with eggs, and sesame oil, and the soft egg flowers are drifting in the braised, and there is another kind of fragrant beauty. There must be no soy sauce, but people used their own black sauce before. Each sauce is small and small, and the color and fragrance will not be the same. Today, it is rare to make sauce by yourself.

The prepared vegetable code or brine is not enough, and there is also a method of response. I remember that when I was a kid, my grandmother would temporarily make up for leek salt water, and sometimes she went to the toon trees outside the house. Summer toon leaves are not fresh, but they can also finish the noodles.

Besides the hot soup, that is, when cooking noodles, the corresponding vegetables such as beans, north melons, leeks, and zucchini are added to be eaten together in the bowl. It is better to have meat or eggs. Remember that when the vegetables lack of vegetables, grandma once put the fresh elm leaves into the soup, which did not say any taste, but the color was very good. Make hot soup, use green onions or peppercorns, etc. The first step is. After adding water into the pot, the moment is accompanied by "squeak", the strong aroma comes from the face.

Eating hot soup is suitable for all seasons and most of the evening. There are also rolled noodles into triangles, called soup. In addition, there are soups.

To make soup, white noodles are the first choice, it is good to make good looks and delicious. For a long time, eating white noodle soup is very enviable. There are few white noodles, and noodles, yam noodles, and miscellaneous noodles are mung bean noodles.

The noodles and yam noodles look white, but the noodles and noodles that are cooked are brown -purple. Because of its insufficient stickiness, it is difficult to form a group, and the cut strips are easy to break, so there is a field of elm skin noodles. In the elm skin surface, the "root skin" is better than the "skin". The former is sticky and a little sweet. At that time, there were often people who walked on the streets to collect elm skin, and you could also hear the sip of "appointment of elm skin noodles".

"Foreskin" soup is more distinctive. The noodles look three layers, and the thicker in the middle is dark noodles or yam noodles, and the upper and lower layers of white noodles. This is a classic that is wrapped with a white noodle noodles or yam noodles. Most of the mixed noodles are hot soup, the strip is cut carefully, and you can smell the smell of mung bean. At present, the elm skin noodles are rare, and there are fewer elm tree. The noodles and yam noodle soup are more difficult. However, the miscellaneous soup and even buckwheat soup can be seen in the restaurant, and they are all classified as "healthy foods".

To eat cold soup in winter, it is mostly for who "live". According to tradition, each family married daughter -in -law also pays attention to hospitality. However, this is not called cold soup. People mostly do happy events before the Spring Festival. The weather is cold. It is called "cold soup" to listen to uncomfortable. What's more important is the hot and popular happy events. How can we eat "cold soup"? Usually, to say who "eat noodles", the subtext is to congratulate and "follow the ceremony". When others invite you to "eat noodles" when he goes to his house, it is equivalent to informing your family to do happy things. Now, people live better before, but marrying daughter -in -law still eat noodles. Of course, in addition to noodles, it may also be equipped with dishes with cold and hot, vegetarian and vegetarian. Birthday and marrying daughter -in -law, the wonderfulness of eating noodles is easy to see, and longevity and long -term prayer and blessings are inside.

Nowadays, many people will go to the hotel to hold ceremonies and invitations when they do happy events, but many people still insist on "eating noodles" at home. The group of friends and relatives of the big group, the noodles of the large pot, the bowl of noodles, a bowl of noodles with the heat and aroma, and the tray to the guests and the folks with a tray, exuding a special emotional atmosphere and local taste. At this kind of thing, the villages usually have "prime ministers" scheduling. After a group of people are busy, they buy ingredients and cook in a pot. As a dial of inheritance, the large pot keeps a relatively stable flavor, and it is not easy to eat elsewhere.

Rolling noodles is time -consuming and laborious. Later, with a noodle machine, it is very convenient to eat soup. However, there are many people who insist on rolling noodles. In some restaurants, people will solemnly tell you that his noodles are rolled by hand. The noodles in the restaurant, whether it is a cold dish or hot rice, has gradually increased and changing its dishes and its combination with the flow of people in the north and south, but many people still prefer local traditional styles.

Soup is a typical hometown taste. Every time there is a swimming son, the mother will cook or make soup in person or Zhang Luo.

Xia has arrived and wants to eat soup.

2

Do you see the little people?

Luo Yunchuan

▲ Chicken 枞

A few years ago, I went to Yunnan to travel on a business trip and visit relatives by the way. I ate in my brother's house in Kunming and looked at the dishes on the table. I protested: "Why is there no meat?" My brother smiled and said, "It's not easy to think of you back a trip. In addition, "This is more expensive than meat."

Bacteria is a good heart of people living in Yunnan.

Yunnan's terrain is complex, the types of forests and soil are diverse, and the climate conditions are unique, and it has bred a wealth of wild edible fungus resources. Data show that there are more than 2,000 wild edible fungi around the world, more than 1,000 in my country, and more than 900 types of Yunnan, known as the "fungal kingdom".

"In addition to the rain of fungi cigarettes, the smell of the Dianhai is heard." The ancients used taste buds to establish word of mouth for Yunnan bacteria. This tradition has continued to this day. When the Summer bacteria went public, half of Yunnan people eat bacteria and half on the way to or buy bacteria. No bacteria can escape the "magic claws" of Yunnan people. In this place, there are things to eat wild fungus poisoning every year. The serious ones die, and the light will have hallucinations, and many people in front of them are dancing.

When you see the officials, don't be scared to see here. Don't think that the "gourmet" has become a "horror film". In fact, edible wild bacteria poisoning is a small probability event. A friend of me has a golden sentence: "Wine is our friend, drunk is our enemy." This sentence is also suitable for the bacteria: "Bacteria is our friend, poisoning is our enemy." Let's take a look at us Bacteria friends: Milk Purgas, Chicken and Coconulus, Cicada, Sryecho, Shipblamium, Classic Classic Bacteria, Copper Green Muscium, Sand Bacillus, Clouds, brushing bacteria, Clamp Musculum, Bachelonia ... Just listening to their names can evoke the mules in the belly, the index finger moves, isn't it?

Matsutake, also known as Matsukou mushrooms, has high nutritional value and special medicinal effect, so it is known as the "king of bacteria". The main domestic production areas are the Northeast and Yunnan, and Yunnan is the largest in China. Matsutake meat is tender, sweet and smooth, the best fresh food, and delicious. After the documentary "China on the Tip of the Tongue" appeared, Matsutake became more famous and rose. It is said that in some high -end restaurants, a Matsutake can be sold to thousands of yuan. It can be fried or fried, stewed soup, rice, and so on. In Japan, Matsutake is highly sought after, and common ways to eat Matsutake sashimi.

Matsutake is a nobleman in Yunnan wild bacteria. I and other people have a certain sense of distance to it. Those who really entered home -cooked dishes are those common fungi. In addition to those mentioned earlier, there are green bacteria, beef liver bacteria, dried Bacteria, and chicken.

Green bacteria, also known as color change mushrooms. Braised, red and bright, crispy and delicious. There is a method of steaming small pumpkin in the Dian cuisine, which is roughly emptied in the small pumpkin and steamed in the meat. Similar to the brewing bacteria is similar to this. Fill the meat in the green -headed bacteria hat, fry first and then steam, and finally pour the sauce. This dish is delicious and tender.

Beef liver bacteria, lids are thick and succulent, and the lids are tight tube holes, shaped like sieve plates. Stir -fried beef liver bacteria, spicy beef liver bacteria, etc. are all good home. Ganba bacteria are not a kind of dry bacteria. Yunnan people call beef jerky as beef jerky. There is a saying that dried mobilizes have the taste of beef jerky, so this is the name. Xuanwei ham stir -fry dried Bascus, and the wine is delicious. Even without ham, it is just delicious to simply stir -fry dried bacteria with green peppers.

For cooking with bacteria, the soil on the bacteria must be rinsed up. Wash the water one by one. Do not soak it into the water together. It is said that it will affect the quality of the dishes. In addition, garlic is generally increased when stir -fried. There is a bacteria called "Seeing the Green", and after touching it, it becomes purple. The folk believes that in order to avoid seeing the green poisoning, in addition to sufficient time when cooking, it is necessary to put enough edible oil and garlic, because garlic has a certain poisoning function.

Now let's talk about chicken. Chicken is fat and strong, with fine silk and white, which is comparable to chicken, so it is named. Some people think that the "king of bacteria" is not Matsutake.

The chicken was listed as a tribute in ancient times. According to rumors, Mingzong Zhu Youxue's favorite chicken sturgeon in Yunnan must be passed into Beijing every year. In the Ming Dynasty writer Yang Shen, the "Romance of the Three Kingdoms" began to "roll the Yangtze River eastward water, waves and the heroes", once. The Ming Dynasty "Nanyuan Man Record" records: "Chicken, fungi. However, Yongchang (now Baoshan) is beautiful, and many ... Cooking and drying, there are few smokes and unbearable food. After the night, the aroma is exhausted, so it is treasure. "Zhao Yi, a writer of the Qing Dynasty, described the chicken. Cream, spoil in the nib "."

Chicken ravioli was mostly born on the white ant nest of the mountains. It cannot be cultivated artificially, and it is not advisable to save, so it is more precious. Fresh chicken crickets, braised and clear soups. There is also a simple way of eating, that is, barbecue, brush oil on the charcoal fire and cook, dip in salt and salt and eat. But I always feel that this approach belongs to the "violent sky". The more common approach is "oil chicken". People often make some fruits and canned fruits that should not be stored for a long time. First remove the soil, clean, tear it into strips, and dry the water; inject the vegetable oil into the cooking oil and heat it, add chicken and dried peppers, fry the chicken water to the water to dry, yellow instead of the pan and do not roll up the pot. , Put in the bottle and can store it.

Once I went to Yunnan for a business trip. When I returned, my mother went to the vegetable market early in the morning to buy a lot of chicken pupa, washed a root, and then made it into oil chicken. It was filled with a large -capacity plastic jar. I returned to Beijing with this large pot of oil chicken. Sometimes eat rice or noodles and pick out a little bit from the jar. After eating this big can, my daughter said she wanted to eat. So, my brother bought four small cans and sent it, and we had to eat it again. Eating and eating, my heart rushed to nostalgia.

3

There are many snack stories

Party Yunfengwen/Picture

▲ Blazi

"Winter solstice dumplings summer solstice". At present, it is the season of harvesting wheat in Shandong's hometown, and soon you can eat fresh wheat rice. It is generally too late to go home after busy farming. It can not only quickly come out of the pot, but also relieve the tired food. It is a marinated noodle. Go home and use well water to baptize the cooked noodles. After the water is warm, the water is a cool noodle after two times. Bourry is also relatively simple. It can be eaten soon, such as eggplant eggs, eggplant eggs, bean -horn eggs, tomato eggs, loofah eggs, etc. The seasonal vegetables are cold noodles, and they eat green onions. It is very pleasant. The simplest braised seeds are to smash the garlic, pour on the numb juice, and bite the belly, the coolness of the face is distributed to the whole body.

When mentioning the scene of eating noodles, I have to mention the fifty -two round of "Jin Ping Mei": the piano children come to put the table, the painting children use a square box to get four small dishes, and it is three plates of garlic juice. Pork halogen, a silver spoon, three pairs of teeth. Putting up, the three sat down. Then get three bowls of noodles, everyone takes the self -poured and pour it on garlic vinegar. The two boarded seven bowls. Ximen Qing can't eat two bowls. Xie Xida said: "Ben wait for the dwelling, I just ate just now, otherwise I still banned a bowl." When I saw "hard" to describe to eat, I felt very in place, Xie Xi I can eat a few bowls of noodles after eating a lot, which is a fan of "carbo water bomb".

Borazi (called "steamed vegetables in many places") is also a popular snack for farmers' busy season. Sprinkle the washed sweet potato leaves, beans, spinach, locust flowers, celery leaves, etc., and steam it on the cage drawer. Blazi can be eaten directly, or dipped in garlic juice and other dipping sauce.

When they went down to the ground, many people would bring pancakes and pickles. Pancakes are more common in Shandong, and they are also divided into many genres, including crispy pancakes, soft noodle pancakes, and stuffed vegetable pancakes. The Qing Dynasty Pu Songling wrote in "Pancake Fu": "The circle is as long as the moon, as big as a copper, like a paper of the stream, and it looks like the yellow crane's cricket. the same. Pancake rolls onions are outstanding representatives of Shandong diet. Perhaps the egg and garlic can be compared with pancake rolls onions. The method of eggs and garlic is simple. Put the cooked eggs and garlic cloves in a stone mortar to pound the garlic and egg mud. The physical and mental of the person who eats eggs and garlic may be hit hard, and then he will make this way of eating.

The background of the long novel "Awakening Marriage" written by West Zhou Sheng in the Qing Dynasty was Zhang Qiu. In the 29th round, the fifth day of May, the weather was hot, and Zhenjun came to Mingshui to eat fast rice: a bowl of fried tofu, a bowl of cucumber with gluten, a bowl of cooked cabbage, a bowl of cucumber mixed cucumber , A plate of pancakes, millet bean water rice, a pair of crickets. Now it seems that these dishes are really healthy. The jelly and sesame cake mentioned in the thirty -seventh time made me have a lot of heart. After from Mingshui to Jinan, "Di Zhou saw Cheng Leyu talking about jelly and pancakes, there was a spitting feeling, and then asked the owner's house to borrow a box and a big magnetic bowl of" Chibi Fu ". I ran to Jiangjiachi up and down two bowls of jelly, picked up ten sesame cakes, quietly brought to the lower part, set up four plates of side dishes, and made a meal with Cheng Leyu. " Later, "the biscuits, rice, rice, noodles, cucumbers are tuned, and cucumbers are eaten in the front of the five ravioli shops. Today, these snacks can only be read in the book. It is worth mentioning that the "Red Cliff Fu" big magnetic bowl of "Chibi Fu" has become the writing age of judging "The Biography of Awakening Marriage", and then judging the important basis for Western Zhou Sheng to be. Many snacks that have passed on for thousands of years have become intangible cultural heritage at all levels. Zibo's Zhoucun sesame cakes are said to have originated from the Han Dynasty. They have been listed in the national intangible cultural heritage list. They are divided into two flavors of salty and sweet, which are crispy. The first batch of "good product Shandong" brand announced in March this year involved chicken, ham, mutton soup, handle meat, sesame cakes, etc. Of course, the snacks in life are far more than these types, and the list is endless, like nostalgia. For example, the practice of chickens alone is Texas chicks, Yimeng fried chicken, Zaozhuang spicy chicken, Jining Nangua chicken, etc.; Jiaodong's catfish dumplings are impressive, less catfish thorns, and pork belly, leeks, delicious, delicious, delicious, delicious, delicious It has become; Jining's cakes of cakes are unique; compared with Linyi soup, Shanxian Yang Tang's reputation is greater. ; There are also dried meat rice, sweet foam, oil rotation, etc. of Jinan.

The regionality of the snack is reflected in pronunciation, and some pronunciation dictionaries are not found, such as Linyi (SA, two voices). Some folk stories said that Qianlong asked, "What (糁)?" So with the name of "糁", in fact, the history of 糁 is much earlier than this. ， Is the broth, boiled with mutton, chicken, and beef. Breakfast is full of bowls, and then with fritters or cakes, it is full of vitality. This kind of delicious drinking in winter cannot be dismissed by diners in midsummer. This is the charm of snacks.

4

But the heart is reluctant

Luo Man Qiu Yuan

▲ Zhu Lanqing made chicken 馃 Luo Man took by Luo Man

In the heart of the poet Yu Guang, his hometown is the endless nostalgia in his writing; in the heart of the writer Mao Dun, the hometown is "the eternal memory of the hearts of the heart" ... In the hearts of the Lanxi people in Zhejiang, the hometown is a chicken. The taste of the child was a laughter in the childhood, and it was a permanent paradise deep in the heart.

A few days ago, I visited the old friends and old friends in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. Lanxi writer and theater Li Yu's hometown, the local Wenqing laughed that Li Yu had the ring of "three things that did not eat green onion, garlic and chives in his life". One day, Li Yu was infected with cold cold. His little sister -in -law used green onion eggs to make a cricket. Li Yu had a big appetite and dispersed from the wind and cold. reconcile". Gradually, the chicken was circulating in Lanxi. This legend wakes up the taste buds present, so regardless of the night, everyone is led by acquaintances to authentic, cost -effective and slightly hidden "Lanqing Chicken". It is probably "the wine is not afraid of the alleys". It is nearly 10 pm. This shop is still a lively scene. The diners sitting at the eight immortal tables in three or two are eaten with a bowl of white porridge or a preserved egg lean porridge. , There are also a few home -cooked dishes, which are nourishing and tasteful.

The shop owner Zhu Lanqing happened to show his skills: "In addition to studying the traditional craftsmanship of making chickens in" Into Paid ", I also got the true biography of grandfather Bao Alin and mother Xu Xingzheng. Making craftsmanship. "Bao Allin, who was born in 1911, began to learn the art with the master at the age of 15, and made chicken crickets for a lifetime; Xu Xingzheng's craftsmanship of making chicken 馃 was learned with his stepfather Bao Allin.

In 1988, after Zhu Lanqing was laid off from the Lanxi Pesticide Factory, his mother Xu Xingzheng put the humble chicken on the street. In particular, the monthly income of more than 3,000 yuan after the stall made Zhu Lanqing more firmly the idea of ​​becoming the third -generation chicken.

In 1996, Zhu Lanqing, who was suffering from the wind on the street, germinated the idea of ​​opening a shop. As a result, the first "Lanqing Chicken" shop named after its name appeared in a small alley in Lanxi City. Jiang Xiaoling, who has a brand consciousness, also registered the "Lanqing Chicken Chicken" trademark for her husband Zhu Lanqing, which laid the foundation for the "Lanqing Chicken" to be among Jinhua's non -heritage list and the road to chain operations. In 1998, "Lanqing Chicken" won the title of "Top Ten Snacks of Jinhua", and then nearly 10 titles and honors such as "Chinese famous" and "Chinese famous snacks". With the continuous improvement of the popularity of "Lanqing Chicken", the business of small shops is becoming more popular.

In the 1990s, Lanxi held large -scale cultural festivals such as colorful boats and orchid festivals. Many cultural celebrities who came to Lanxi fell in love with Lanxi local snacks; in September 2005, CCTV's "same song" program group entered Lanxi, some well -known singers I also came to eat chicken. As Lanxi Chicken's fame is far a broadcast, many people seek to join. However, Zhu Lanqing realized that for a local snack from the street, there was no mature business management model. Opening a franchise store could only talk about soldiers on paper. In 2001, Zhu Lanqing hired the designer to redesign the environment of the store, and asked experts to regulate the operating management system of chain franchise, established the "Lanqing Chicken" Technical Promotion Center, and founded the "Lanqing Chicken" website. After the conditions were mature, Zhu Lanqing began recruiting franchisees from the country. "Today, in Xinjiang, Heilongjiang, Liaoning and other provinces, in Lishui, Hangzhou, Yiwu, Yongkang, you can eat authentic Lanxi chicken." Zhu Lanqing said.

The night was deep, the diners in the store gradually dispersed, and Zhu Lanqing faced us with a strong talk. He began to patiently teach us the main points of the production of chickens: the meat in the chicken is fat and thin, and the onions should be cut and evenly cut. The skin of the chicken should be rolled thin, and the place where the mouth is closed is particularly kung fu. It is best to master a piece of paper as thick; the heat is even more critical. mouth. During the talk, I saw Zhu Lanqing rolling the skin, spread a layer of meat and wrapped the green onions, put the flat tweezers in the oil pan, then knocked on the eggs into the bowl, and added the self -flavored flavor to disperse it. Then use chopsticks to open a small hole on the mule, and pour the stirred egg liquid without leaking along the chopsticks. Fry for a while. The golden sprayed chicken is in one go.

The taste of Li Yu's hometown is an indescribable feelings; the brand built for more than 30 years contains all the flavors of life; the meticulous skills have been sharpened, and it is on the road to bigger and stronger. Golden Zeze, mellow fragrance, along the street, floating to the lane, is a surprise of lingering bone; thin skin filling, oil and not greasy, enjoy the delicious and full egg, green onion, and fleshy flavor, let the flavor, let the fragrant flavor, let the fragrant fragrance of meat, let Fragrance of lips and teeth; every quality of thoughtfulness is the emotional passing of the emotional passage and quenching; every true, every warmth is aroused the kind of child's eyebrows, but the heart of the heart ...

"China Culture News" on June 25, 2022

The 4th version published a special report

"Hometown on Taste"

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Editor -in -chief: Chen Xiaoyue

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