Yizhou Yiyuan | Li Jianchun: Unforgettable Yuexi taste

Unforgettable Western taste

Li Jianchun

Food is suspended, carrying nostalgia, carrying thoughts.

It has been more than 30 years since the west of Yue. Now when I meet the west at home, I often remember those unforgettable delicious snacks.

Yuexi's deliciousness comes from the production of intentional production, but also conducive to the unique geographical environment.

As the most rare flat ground in the mountains of Daliang Mountain, Yuexiba is fragrant, rich in products, and there are countless treasures in the surrounding mountains.

Whether it is carefully made of local products, or the wild fruit mountains in the mountains are so delicious, it is unforgettable.

People who have lived here will remember the taste of the small shops on the old streets of the ancient city and those small stalls on the street. It is the taste of the distance, and it is the taste of the hometown.

▲ Corn Baba

A few days ago, I took the frozen tender corn paste from the refrigerator, and prepared to follow the method of making the Yue Western corn puppets. This bag of frozen corn paste was brought to me from the hometown of Shandong.

When they played in the countryside last year, they saw a large piece of corn in the fields in the mountains. The corn sticks were huge and full, and they were seductive.

They now bought a lot of fresh and tender corn sticks from a farmhouse to go home and make corn. She felt like the corn rap she ate in Vietnam when she was a child, so she left a bag for me, and wanted me to taste the taste of eating in Yuexi when she was a child.

In July and August of each year, the local corn of Vietnam has grown to eight or nine mature. These do not use chemical fertilizers, and they can be cooked and eaten with farmers' fertilizer. , But the best taste and the most kung fu is corn.

Yuexi people peel off the corn kernels when they are fresh, grind them into corn paste with stone, and put an appropriate amount of corn paste into fresh corn skin with a spoon. Wrap the sauce from flowing out, put it in the cage.

The corn skin should be near the inner layer near the corn's tender yellow, fresh, soft, and humid, and the dry and hard corn skin of the outer layer cannot be used. In the ascending heat, the corn is slowly cooked.

The cooked corn ramy is to eat hot, just take it out of the steamer, and it is a bit hot. The corn skin is slowly unveiled. The taste is soft, a bit glutinous, the kind of sweetness, a faint fragrance, a faint fresh, and the fragrance is left with the mouth after eating, which makes people unforgettable.

Although the method was made, the corn cake I made does not have the unique soft glutinous and sweet fragrance of the western corn sauro at all.

▲ Douhua

Douhua is the favorite of my second brother. When working in Yuexi, he often patronizes Douhua Rice. The most favorite is the south of West Street Shangjie near the old county hospital.

The bean flower in that shop is the most famous, because Douhua is doing well, and the shop is also booming. Perhaps he has developed a love for Douhua rice in Yuexi. Now in Shandong, he often buys the beancans made by Sichuan people.

Yuexi Beanhua uses the mountain springs under the eyes of Baita Mountain to wash the local soy beans and soaked, grind the stone made of bluestone into soy sauce, remove the soy milk with gauze, and then boil the soy milk to the certain temperature. It is made of brine, and the production process is different from other places.

However, the skills of making beancurds in Yuexi are superb. The style presented by Yue Xidan flower is like its name, clusters of white flowers that are open in the water.

Yuexi Douhua is soft and just right. You can use chopsticks to gently pinch it. If it is softer, you can't pinch it with chopsticks.

When eating beancurd, use chopsticks to gently pick up a small ball from the large group of beancurd, dip a little dipping with chili, peppercorns and other condiments, and send the hot mouth to the entrance to the entrance. Douhua shows a silk back of sweetness and faint brine.

Usually taste a few tales, then simply pour the beancurd with the soup of the bean flower into the rice bowl, pour in the dipping sauce, then mix the bean flower and rice into a bean rice rice with chopsticks. Fast, eating fiercely, can you eat more painful and more satisfied, a bowl of warm belly is warm.

In the 1990s in Beijing, the beancurds that had eaten in Chongqing and his hometown in Shandong a few years were not as tender and smooth as Yousouhua, and there were no flowers -like shapes. Essence

Perhaps because of the mountain spring water, maybe because of the production skills, maybe all are there. Yue Xidouhua is the best and most tender among the beancurds in various places that have been eaten.

▲ Folder roots

You can eat a lot of wild vegetables in Yuexi. Folding ears are a kind of wild vegetables, scientific name Houttuynia cordata. It has medicinal value and can moisturize the lungs to fire.

The locals also call it a pig nose arch. It is said that the wild boar also likes to eat it. When the wild boar smelled the roots of the ears, it was eaten with the nose.

I remember that on the South Street of Yuexi Old Town, there are often folding roots on the villagers of Yi people. The back basket is bundled with a folding ears. The price is one dollar. It is white with a few purple -red leaves on it, which is extremely tender. These folding ears are wild, growing in wetlands next to the water ditch in the forest, and the taste is strong.

Put the roots of the folding ears home in the water, wash it with your hands, wash the soil while rubbing the thin roots, and put it in the dustpan and drain.

Then cut into a small section of about one centimeter, put it in a large bowl, add salt, soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar, and then sprinkle with pepper powder and a little pepper powder. When you smoke, spill the hot oil on the pepper powder. In the sound of the spicy taste, the room is permeated. Use chopsticks to stir the folding ear roots and condiments in the bowl to fully taste it. When you eat a large spoon, you chew on the entrance. The root of the ears has some toughness. When the bite is broken, the taste is astringent and sweet. After eating, the tongue and lips will be numb.

This taste seems a bit weird, but it can make people addicted. Often, the lips are numb and can't help but have a spoonful of one spoonful to eat.

The roots of folding the ear are generally used as a cool dish on the dining table at the meal, but the way the local Yi people eat the roots of folding the roots are different, and the way of eating is more bold. They will mix a large pot of roots in the living room each time. Big wooden spoon, you can eat it at any time, you can eat and enjoy it.

The special food of folding ears, the loved ones look at them as delicious, and those who do not love retreat to the three houses. Its strong fishy smell will scare some people, and its astringent taste also allows some people to avoid it. But as long as you take a bite, chew slowly, and after taste, most of them will fall in love with it.

▲ Bean Naer

Her mother is a northerner. She has lived in Yuexi for nearly thirty years. Later, the dishes she cooked also had a strong flavor of Yuexi. The pickled sauerkraut was even more authentic than many locals marinated. She also learned from the locals.

Unlike making beancurd, it is not soybeans for making beans, but no completely mature green hair beans.

Put the edamame in the pot and add water, then add a little peppercorns, cook it until eight mature, and then grind it into a slurry with stone.

After boiling the grinding bean juice, add the broken tender south melon, celery, leeks, and salt in order. When these ingredients are cooked, a pot of beans that exude a thick bean flavor will be made. All right.

Bean puree is like porridge and soup. The scent of tender bean juice mixed with tender pumpkin, celery, and leeks is very delicious. Mix the beans into the bowl and mix well with the rice grains, and eat it with a spoonful. Just with the umami taste of Doudou, you often eat a few more bowls of rice.

Doudou was the western flavor that I have never eaten in restaurants and family dishes in other places later, and even never seen it.

▲ Dashan bacteria

Last year's wife bought a box of Matsutake produced from Yunnan from the Internet. This kind of mushrooms that are regarded by the Japanese as treasures are stars in food programs, which makes people look forward to its taste. After cooking and frying, it tastes its aroma and umami, but it still feels that the wild mushrooms that have been eaten in Yuexi are delicious.

Whenever it rains, various wild mushrooms are president in the mountains of Yuexi, rice soup, tea tree, chicken gangs, etc. There are many varieties and different tastes. Among them, rice soup is the smallest, and mushroom heads are as large as rice grains. The soup burned with rice soup is as white as milk, thick and smooth mouth, and the taste is fresh to the extreme.

The big fungus is the largest, with a length of more than ten centimeters, white, and the size is similar to the chicken leg mushrooms sold in the vegetable field, that is, the bacteria rod is thinner than the chicken leg mushroom rod, and the overall looks longer.

The cooking method of Shanbaobacteria is very simple. After washing, tear it away along the bacteria. Put an appropriate amount of rapeseed oil in the hot pot, add mushrooms, sprinkle some salt, and slowly fry.

The fried mushrooms can be eaten directly with their hands. The chicken -like bacteria rods are chewy, the more chewing, the more fragrant, the mouth is the peculiar flavor of the rapeseed oil and mushrooms. Shan Bacteria is special and tastes special, which is a kind of unforgettable deliciousness.

When I was in college, the students in the dormitory made an appointment and returned to school with the gourmet food in their hometown after the summer vacation. What I brought back was a large bottle of mountain bacteria fried by my mother. While I first tasted Lanzhou White Pumpkin and Guangdong coconut juice, the classmates also tasted the deliciousness from the mountains from the west of Yue West for the first time.

▲ Sweet Kato

Sweet Gevine is a vine plant. People do not leave to climb the mountain diamond forests to find this plant, and then dig out it hard, just for its unique licorice sweetness.

I remember that whenever elementary school was out of school, a group of children were always surrounded by a group of children in the southwest corner of the Bell and Drum Tower. There was a layer outside, holding a point and two -pointer coins in their hands to scramble to buy sweetge vines.

After the seller collects the money, put the roots of the roots like a tree on the wooden board in front of him, cut a few pieces thinly, then spread it on the wooden board, pick up the bag with lime Turn it over and beat a few times, and the sweetge vine changes from white to yellow under the action of lime.

Take the sweetge vine in his hand, put it in his mouth, chew while walking, and infiltrate the tip of the tongue sweetly, and the aftertaste is long.

The kind of wild fun when eating sweetge vine, the deliciousness that can be bought for one or two cents, is now hard to find.

▲ Sweet cherry

There are many varieties of fruits produced in Yuexi, apples, peaches, pears, lameness, etc. Among them, the Yuexi Apple has a long -standing reputation. Remember that the National Apple Planting Conference was held in Yue West in the late 1970s, which shows its great reputation.

In fact, the quality of Yuexi cherry was also very good. Because there was no scale planting at that time, farmers only planted one or two trees in front of their own houses, and the output was very small, so it seemed more rare than other fruits.

Whenever the cherry mature season, people can be sold on the side of the road shop and department stores. Cherry is packed in the basket, covering fresh leaves on it. The red and translucent fruits are particularly seductive. People passing by will look at it a few more. Buying a small amount of dime, just a dozen in your hand, more expensive than other fruits, so few people bought it at that time. At that time, eating cherry was also very interesting. Because of the rare and rare, I cherished it. The fruit was reluctant to eat it immediately in my mouth.

The boy couldn't help but eat it for a while. The girls had a long time, and some could even insist on a lesson time until the cherry was merged. The little cherry not only makes people remember its fresh taste, but also makes people remember its noble value.

The hometown of Shandong is also rich in cherries, and now it is planted in large -scale area and has a large output. Now eating cherries also let go of as much as possible to eat as much as possible, and eat a lot, but the taste of the cherry cherries is still there.

▲ Wild Fruit King

There is a kind of wild fruit from the mountains. I didn't find this kind of wild fruit. I couldn't remember any names. The brothers and sisters at home couldn't remember its name, and they were called the "Wild Fruit King".

The king of the wild fruit is very rare. Only when luck is good can you meet someone selling it on the old city South Street, and the number is very small. Its shape is a bit like broad beans, but it is thinner. The color of the outer skin is rare blue. When eating, peel the outer skin like peeling broad beans, and it is a sticky juice like glue, licking it with tongue.

There are very few edible parts of the wild fruit king, and it seems that there is nothing to eat, but the aroma of the outer skin is striking. The glue juice is very sweet and sweet. Essence Although it is not very fast, it is completely eligible to be elected as the "wild fruit king" with its unparalleled sweet fragrance.

There are a lot of wild fruits between the fields of the fields of Yuexi. The big dragon by the fish pond of the armed department can dye the lips red black bubbles, the snow -white fragrant fragrant fragrant bubbles on the apple forest and grass, and the bright red and sweet on the Baita Mountain The sour persimmons, as well as the sheep milk that can eat milk, is endless.

Doudou, sour persimmons, mountain bacteria ... These names were all passed down at the time, and they were not seen in the text. The names in the text were all based on the name of the year.

Since I have not done it myself, the description of food production methods is not necessarily accurate, but these do not prevent me from describing the joy I feel when I describe the food, and recall the good times I reappeared at that time.

Cooking smoke, the warm stove always makes people feel warm. On street snacks, fresh fruits on the trees are always reminiscent of the scenery of their hometown. No matter how far, the warmth is long, and the scenery is often in front of you.

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