Find Jiangnan Food Signal (Part 2)

(one)

In the golden autumn season, Suzhou's gourmet signals rose and landed into two things: chicken head rice, hairy crabs.

Hairy crab studies are named Chinese velvet crab, which can grow in places with freshwater. It is said that one year of French hairy crabs flooded, it turned out to be crab seedlings brought by Chinese cargo wheels. Why is the hairy crabs in Suzhou particularly famous? Soil and soil! The so -called water and so -called people raised one person and cultivated one side. Just like Biluochun Tea, you can actually do it everywhere, but only Biluochun tea in Dongting East and Xishan in Suzhou can be listed as the top ten famous tea in China. Why? Soil and soil! Environment! The sweetness of the water vapor and Taihu water in Taihu Lake, the tea trees in the east and west mountains are planted on Huaguo Mountain. Those who know tea can drink "a faint fruity aroma". In the same way, hairy crabs grow in the water in Suzhou, the water in Suzhou is a bit sweet, the bottom of Suzhou's lake is a bit hard, and the grass is also grown. The water of Yangcheng Lake is two meters deep. It is especially suitable for hairy crabs to grow. , White belly, yellow hair, golden claws. Hairy crabs are particularly delicious, rich, and crab meat is a bit sweet.

(two)

It used to be "west wind, crab feet itching", and this traditional concept has long been subverted. The crab farmers in the lake area opened their brains, lengthening the supply chain of crabs to go public, and satisfied the desire to taste the taste of crabs in the non -golden autumn season to Suzhou during the non -golden autumn season.

June yellow. Still in the summer, the first wave of crab -eating tide in Suzhou rose in the "fisherman music". In June, yellow crabs are in the period of long body. They have meat but not plump, yellow but not strong. They eat the taste. The taste is completely the taste of hairy crabs! Suzhou people usually make "noodle dragging crabs". They are about to cut two crabs, dip the dried flour to prevent the crab yellow juice from being lost, and fry the powder in hot oil. Crab is half -cooked, add a batter, and add a handful of edamame seeds. Wow! The flavor of the batter and edama seeds is really delicious, and the taste of crabs is all in this paste.

Top shell crab. A crab needs to change the shell many times during the growth process. It is said dozens of times. The crab farmers in the lake area told me that it was generally six times. After the crabs enter the young age, there will be two chances to change the shell change. The process of changing the shell is that a layer of underwear of the meat gradually hardened, and it is hard to a certain extent. Therefore, the top shell crab has two layers of shells, soft inside and hard. In June, the yellow is more precious is the top shell crab.

Soft shell crab. It is a soft -shell crab that is more expensive than the top shell crab. As the name suggests, the shell fades away, and the new shell is long. At this moment, crabs need to be recuperated, and they usually sleep on water plants. Therefore, soft shell crabs are rare to see and need to catch it at midnight.

The cooking method of top -shell crabs and soft shell crabs is generally one cut, steaming, or a handful of edamame seeds to increase color. Gourmet, the first.

(three)

In June, it will indeed be lively in the four seasons of food in Suzhou, but it is just a prelude and prelude in front of the drama. The real crab show has to wait for "to start". "This year, the arrest of Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs was on September 23!" Mr. Qian Dong, Executive Vice President of the Yangcheng Lake Hairy Crab Industry Association and the chairman of the Yangcheng Lake Yujiale Association, told me.

Hairy crabs are listed, and generally no longer use cream, noodles and other cooking methods, but steamed and eat crabs. It is best to eat a pair at a time, one male and one mother. In this way, you can eat the majestic crabs and the beauty of the mother crab. In the golden autumn season, the restaurant in Suzhou will peel out crab meat and make crab powder series dishes, such as: crab powder lion head, crab powder tofu, crab powder dish. The snack shop will launch a crab powder bag, and in recent years, there are also crab powder moon cakes. The noodle restaurant is solemnly listed on shrimp crab noodles, crab powder noodles, etc., as well as "bald butter". The so -called bald butter is only the cream of the male crab and the yellow of the mother crab. There are two superb products, stir -fry with oily oil, pour noodles, or cross the bridge to fish. It's a bit luxurious. It is said that a bowl of bald butter noodles can be sold to 200 yuan.

(Four)

Almost every year in the flood of crabs, I write an article, "A crab does not eat six." Does Suzhou people eat crabs? not necessarily! And Suzhou people eat crabs in front of foreigners to appear in the ocean. So I have to worry about it.

A crab cannot eat six. The first is crab lung, that is, the respiratory system, in the crab cricket, the left and right rows, gray -white, shaped like eyebrows, eliminated! The second is crab heart. It grows in the middle of the body. It is a white software with six horns. It is commonly known as "hexagonal meat" and "hexagonal long". This thing is the coldest. Third, the crab stomach, located at the top of the crab shell, is a triangular bag. If it is opened, there is a "Fahai" inside, so it is not recommended to open it. It is a bit dirty and remove directly! Four and five are intestines, one in the middle of the crab body. After the shell was unlocked by a cooked crab, the crab cricket was one or two, and there was a detailed tube in the center. There is also one, located in the center of the mother crab, which is also a thin tube, which should be removed! There are also male crabs, but the umbilicals of the male crab are generally abandoned directly. What can I not eat in the sixth? Please guess, you will never eat it.

After eating crab, drink a cup of hot ginger sugar soup to reflect the humanistic care in Suzhou food culture.

Ye Zhengting (the author is the honorary chairman of the Suzhou Folk Artists Association, a famous writer, gourmet)

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