香 蕈 蕈 鲜)) (4)
Author:China Food Industry Magazine Time:2022.07.31
Speaking of food, the delicious and delicious edible fungus is naturally indispensable. Edible fungus is one of the oldest ingredients in the world. In my country alone, there are more than 350 types of edible fungus. Whether it is the hazel mushrooms in the northeast, the northern northern mushrooms, the northwest of the sheep, or the shiitake mushrooms in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, the straw mushrooms in Lingnan, and the beef liver bacteria in Yunnan are rare and delicious.
The ancients believed that the edible fungus had no root and intangible body. It was born from the essence of heaven and earth and the essence of the sun and the moon. Therefore, it is called "Shanzhen". It is logical. Essence
For thousands of years, different types of edible fungi have been carefully cooked by a variety of ways. While satisfying the Chinese ancestors' taste buds, it has also gradually formed a unique food culture and food style.
Paushan Caiyu is more happy
Eating mushrooms is both a kind of interest and a culture. From ancient times to the present, how many literati and scholars have made a strong complex with edible bacteria. From hard collection, carefully drying to delicate cooking and delicious enjoyment, and finally recorded in beautiful text, these people are undoubtedly a Romantic in today's people. What is very enviable "poetry and distant" lifestyle.
In the bushes after the rain, the large and small mushrooms seemed to fall from the sky, and the stars were scattered in the middle ... If you are lucky, when you happen to meet a large tree stump, you may encounter layers of flat mushrooms or fungus, and even Ganoderma lucidum. The huge mushroom.
This scene is exactly the "Guiyin Shengsheng Wild Muscope" written by the Tang Dynasty, and the accidental surprise of "rainy and multi -bacteria" in the poem.
When it comes to Xiu Xiu, the poetry monk at the end of the Tang Dynasty loves mushrooms almost crazy. In order to win a good cricket, he did not say hardships and waded in the mountains: "Find a long way to find a puppet, pick up a group of crickets." After finding the mushrooms, he looked at the treasure: "What is the aroma of the mountain, a white 蕈 蕈 为 为 为 为蕈 箩 箩. "Guan Xiu Xun Xun, poetry, in words, but the meaning is contained in it, and it has a taste of life.
Similar to Guan Xiu, Gao Sima in the Southern Song Dynasty was also very fighting for eating the best freshness. This Southern Song Dynasty is indeed a university person who is known for his academic "Yuanbo" and "Multi -Production". He is also thinking about life while collecting mushrooms. The Yueyue is bathing, and the lonely people do not know. The stone bone is slippery and the crookedness of Songling. Suddenly Qingyun Yin, seeing this white jade. Chi. Open the Jing Xiu Jing, get the way to push the safe period. Talking about Yan Qiyang and eating five -color Zhi. " Shimizu cultivated the beautiful Songling, and she was in a happy mood, so she began to live in seclusion, so that she had no dust in her heart. Finally, the "banquet" of the sun and tasted the colorful "Xianzhi" together.
In fact, the ancients love mushrooms, not only to eat, but also to send some philosophies in life. "Zhuangzi" Yun: "The Chaoshon does not know the obscure, I do not know the spring and autumn." On the basis of this intention, Liezi also said: "Above the rotten soil, there is a bacteria who are born in the dynasty and died in obscurity." People are doing it for the sake of obscurity. " When the mushrooms were withered and regretted yesterday, the real wise man had already seen the time flying. This is the difference in realm. The term "Chao Music" has also become a sigh of the shortness of life with the accumulation of years. For example, Zhang Yu's "Two Hibetan Flowers" (first): "The germs are obscure throughout their lives, and they change the spring and autumn of Chitose. "Reading Li Shi": "The world is long for a long time, and it is said that it has also been sold. Establishment.
However, these philosophical ideas are often high and widow. In the eyes of most people, the mountains of the mountains and mountains brings more joy and enjoyment, just like the classic song "Little Girl Picking Mushroom Mushrooms with Mushrooms with several generations of generations. Sing in the same. Speaking of the song of mushrooms, in the Ming Dynasty, the poet Li Mengyang also had a song "Mushroom": "White like white jade, fragrant like Yutianhe. Pedestrians and do not walk, listen to my mushroom songs." Skou.
The sound is like a goose
The attractive taste of "fragrant sweetness is better than beef cakes, tender and smooth bean milk soup", experience the ritual feeling of "golden paste overflowing the cheeks, five internal Yunxia", countless literati has long been a literati Pour.
"The origin of the food is Sheng Ruzhi, this taste is clear for ten years. The sculpture plates are clustered in spring and clouds, and I will help me kill the chickens." , And for these little mushrooms, they deliberately killed chickens and ate a pot of chicken stewed mushrooms.
And Wang Zao, known as the "Crown of the Southern Song Dynasty", depicts the tender and deliciousness of the mushrooms in "Food Poetry": "The crickets are tender, and they are all overwhelmed. Sand and earth marks.
The Northern Song Dynasty writer Ouyang Xiu wrote a poem about shiitake mushrooms, "Dragon Boat Festival post · Emperor Hehe" (5) said: "The fragrant and sticky name, the ancient customs are not enough. It was first recommended that Xunzhong. "Xiang Yan is the shiitake mushrooms, and Ouyang Xiu said that" the fragrant and sticky rice is named "is ancient and custom.
The shiitake mushrooms are loved by many literati and vascular. Lin Yan, a hidden poet in the Northern Song Dynasty, also wrote a song: "Apes and birds are divided into clear, Lin Luo supports Cuiwei. We can walk through monks and go out of the road. Why not forget the machine. "With shiitake mushrooms and fresh bamboo shoots, any troubles were all thrown away from the clouds. When the poet of the Southern Song Dynasty returned to Yinyin Yin, he was accompanied by shiitake mushrooms and tender fish. He wrote in "The Book of Youju": "It is even more doubtful to know the sky, I love the early cold. The book in the hand falls into the first pillow, and the lanterns under the window will be a play. , Fix the boat to cook the boat. Shanyin Qingjun must not be recorded in the snow, and the donkey does not run poems in the snow. "
Regarding the poem of "eating mushrooms", the most vivid writing is probably the "Xunzi" of Yang Wanli of the Song Dynasty: "The mountains and mountains are rushing, and the drifting cinnamon pine juice. Wearing and wearing leaves suddenly stood up, pulling away hundreds of fallen leaves. The waxy surface yellow purple light is wet, and the stems are crispy and crispy. The sound is like a goose. Xiangli tooth musk is not good. The lamb 楮 chicken avoids the table, but the meal Yu Ruzhi is the granular. It must not be a day, and it is still possible to store it. "From the mushrooms after the rain, the mushrooms are used to the mushrooms, It can be described as a taste of mushrooms. Among them, the most popular phrase is "The flavor of the goose is like honey, and the sloppy silk is not astringent." Smooth and no astringency. The lotus, that is, Yanghe, the "relatives" of ginger are Chinese herbal medicines, and can also be used as vegetables. And "the lamb 揖 chicken avoids the table, and the meal Yu Ruzhi is granified", how can those meat foods compare with the delicious treasures from the deep mountains? Both image and realistic poetry.
Yang Wanli is probably preferred by mushrooms. When you encounter a "strange mushroom" that cannot be eaten, you will also remind others. There is a song of "The Song of the Strange Morphology": "There is nothing to look at before the rain, and the rain is strange. The digital stems withered soil, and it is as high as people. One. Black is like a bit of yellow like gold, and the first is not afraid of the rain. The sound of rain is like a lotus leaf, and the feet are like purple jade pink festivals. Pedestrian one is one. To the back, forget the lid on the head. This bacteria can be made up, but the meal is unbearable. "On rainy days, strange mushrooms grew on the ground. Essence The poet's mind is thinking that the mushroom can cover the wind and rain, and it can also be repaired. It is better than the umbrella. It is a pity that it can't eat it. Yang Wanli can be regarded as a deep sense of mushrooms.
There is a poem called "Musical Poetry and Yang Tingxiu Yun" in Shiqian in the Ming Dynasty. It has Yang Wanli's poem, and also describes delicious mushrooms to mouthwatering: "Songhua Okou is thunderstorm, slope flowing ointment, fragrant incense incense Sprus. The steam of the new mud day is deep, and the moss breaking is pierced. It is like a lid like a Zhiwanyu, and the purple and yellow are more than 100 red rooms. Bitter, take off the scarf of the crickets. Mulberry goose and chickens are not enough. It exaggerate the mushrooms into a flower, and it is a flower that is naturally arched, and it cannot be caught up by mulberry and chickens.
The Chu people of the Qing Dynasty were recorded in "Jian Ji Ji" recorded such a story: Songyang poet Cheng Qu Nan. The funny cucumber also. Together with the monks. Jue Yin asked Qu Nanfu's poems. A stunts were made: "The head of the head is like Ding, and the tofu and pineapple." This story writes that there is a joke in Songyang, Zhejiang. Mushrooms, Jue Yin hoped that Cheng Qu Nan wrote a poem inscribed by mushrooms, so Cheng Qu Nan used the sentence "The head is like a ding", which not only wrote the mushrooms, but also ridiculed Jueyin. Now it is still interesting to read.
During the Ming and Qing dynasties, wild fungi that people often eaten today have frequently appeared under the strokes of literati and Mo Ke, and they are praised as a heavenly dish.
Yang Shen, a master of the Ming Dynasty, was exiled Yunnan because of the "great courtesy" battle. Although life is a bit difficult, he is not negative and decadent, but instead of sending affection in the mountains and rivers here. Yunnan's food is rich and diverse, and it is completely different from the mainland flavor, which makes him open his eyes and feast. Here, Yang Shenyou was fortunate to eat a rare chicken cricket at first sight, and was amazed. He praised the poem and praised: "The sea of the sea blows jade, and the child is sleeping. There are one or two branches of Qiong Ying. "This poem is called" Mu Wuhua Sending Chicken ". Mu Wuhua and Yang Shen make a thick. The two often travel together, visit each other, and often have gifts. This poem describes Mu Wuhua to send chicken to Yang Shen to taste new things. And Yang Shen compared the chickens to the precious and delicious taste of Yuzhi Qiongying, which was eaten by the immortals in the heavenly god.
The poet is also loved by the poet.Li Xueshi in the Qing Dynasty wrote in "Handiculia": "There is a fierce tiger in the head of Lingbi Mountain, when the wind is fainted with the mountains.Sub -relics. For a while, the flesh is sold with the wind, and the double palms have never been like the plate.In the middle, Yingbin picked the fragrant Yinghuai. Everyone saw me laughing and patted, what is the tiger's palm and Qingzhai. "The poet imagined the tiger's palm into the mountain tiger's palms, vividly depicting the tiger's palm bacteriaCharacter character.It can be seen that since ancient times, people's love for mushrooms not only comes from the deliciousness of the taste when eating, but also the natural harmony of picking wild bacteria.(Wang Ning comprehensive finishing)
Source: China Food News
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