You must eat this bowl of rice in July, the sauce is strong, no fear of heat!
Author:Food table Time:2022.07.25
"Xiaoshu is not hot, the heat is the sky." As soon as the summer heat arrived, the hottest and wet when the year was coming. Hurry up the time, the taste buds of eel rice enthusiasts are about to move.
The crispy meat is tender, rich and fat, and the sweet and rich sauce is mixed with the satisfaction brought by fish and rice, which can quickly recall the physical strength and vitality of the loss of cold summer.
A part of the eel rice is only 20 yuan cheap, but the expensive ones can sell for two or three hundred yuan. Even if the difference is more than ten times more expensive, the famous restaurant still makes diners rush.
The Japanese eel industry has a saying: "Three years of killing eels, eight years of skewers, and grilled eels for a lifetime". Bakery eels need to study throughout their lives for professionals and craftsmen.
One of the "Three Edo Gods" Kim Ben Kamiro is recognized as the "God of Eel". Since his five -year -old father learned to pick eel, he devoted all his energy to the eel and got up at 4 o'clock every day.
For him, the roast eel "is a battle on the flames, the strength of the fire, and the position of the placement. These delicate things must be pursued by professional chefs." A bowl of good eel rice, from the selection of ingredients to roasting, is ingenious everywhere.
The really sophisticated eel rice must be baked in live eels. The orthodox Japanese eel rice must be used for the eel. Although the price is several times more expensive than the sea eel, it is better than loose meat, and the taste is soft and delicate.
The taste of wild river eels should be even higher. They are small and easy to digest, and the meat is more Q's tightness than the breeding river eel. And there is a layer of fat ointment between the flesh, which is full of fat and is slightly larger than the breeding eel.
However, wild river eels are scarce and expensive. In recent years, it has been difficult to supply high -grade eel pavilions.
In 2018, some people captured a wild river eel with a length of 1.43 meters long and weighed 14.8 catties. At that time, some people bid 65,000 yuan, but the eel was eventually released. This was also on the local news of Taizhou.
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Sea eel soup
Compared with the pure blood of the river eel, the relatively low -priced sea eel can only retreat in the eel rice industry and seeks the second alternative. In addition to the bone thorns, the whole body is densely covered with Y -shaped small thorns.
The meat is no more hypertrophic than the river eel (some people describe its "taste snake"), and it is more suitable for soup (quickly remove the iced water after the eels are scalded. Steamed a bowl or a vase.
In fact, there is a tradition of admiring sea eel in Kansai, Japan. During the Edo period, Kyoto became a catering and cultural center of the sea. Therefore, it is not unusual to make eel rice with sea eel in Kansai.
They used the heavy knife to deal with the tricky fish thorns. They were dense and stable. Each fish was cut about 25 knives and ensured that the thorns were connected (that is, "bone cut"), and the eel was tamed.
However, this hard -working practice has always been disappointed by the Kanto people. It was not until the appearance of the electric bone cutter, and this "replacement" was popularized in Kanto.
The strict selection of ingredients is on the one hand. The real kung fu of eel rice is all in the heat.
Excessive roasting will lose the oil and plump, and it will produce fishy smell without enough baking. Master grilled eel needs to hold a fan with a hand and wait carefully. Even if technology is developed and the timer is accurate, the truly sophisticated eel rice still depends on the accumulated old craftsmanship.
Specific eel stores will choose high -priced long charcoal -not home, you can spend money on the charcoal fire, but the baking time and the frequency of baking are not set. The word "fire" is based on the eyes of the master's eyes, nose, and the fan that keeps inciting in his hands.
The baking method of eels is roughly divided into two genres: "Kanto" and "Kansai", from dissection to roasting. When killing eels, the Kanto chef usually adopts a "back cutting" method, while Kansai flow directly as a knife from the abdomen.
When baking eel, the practice of Kanto is to bake in vain, then steamed, and then roast it. The grilled eels are soft and glutinous.
The Kansai genre continued to go straight into the style of a single knife. After cutting the eel belly, skewed it with iron, and grilled it directly. The taste of the eel was more flexible, and the epidermis was crispy.
When entering the seasoning, the grilled eels are divided into "white burning" and "puppets", which has little to do with regional.
"White burning" is also called "vegetarian burning". As the name suggests, eel "plain faces facing the sky", without any seasoning when roasting. Under this method, the umami flavor of the eel itself will be presented in the taste buds without modification, so it has high requirements for eel quality.
The more familiar approach is "Pu Bo". During the baking process, the sauce should be continuously brushed on the eel (there are also operations that directly immerse the eel into the sauce).
The juice is baked and diligent, and the fresh sweet sauce will be tightly embedded in the fish without a brain on the surface. Therefore, the surface of the good eel must be "dry", "bright", a thin layer, similar to the effect of our thickening.
The taste of Pu -roasted eel depends on the cooked sauce. As the treasure of the town shop, the ingredients of the sauce are removed from soy sauce, sugar, eel bone, etc., and each has a secret recipe.
Like the Chinese treat "old braised", eel staff treats sauce. In Japan, there are no shortage of "century -old soup" in the old -fashioned famous shops. The red sauce will be passed down every day and generation through the hands of the masters.
The rice for eel rice must still maintain a good water absorption after cooking, so as to fully absorb the oil and sauce of the eel. If the rice is too soft to chew, it will make the whole eel rice barely.
As for what kind of variety and price of rice, it depends on the sincerity of the store.
There are generally two options: "eel" and "zhong (zhong)" for eel rice. The difference is the container. The "eel weight" in the precious lacquerware box was originally used for the convenience of takeaway. Later, the more luxurious, the more delicate patterns also appeared. ("Heavy" means square box utensils)
"Eel" is similar to the meaning of eel "covering rice". It is placed in a bowl, which is more at home than "eel", and the price is usually cheaper.
Some restaurants also use "loose, bamboo, plum", "upper, special, and polar" and other names to distinguish different eel rice grades. The more expensive the price, the larger the eel presented, and the more weight.
There is not much to say eel rice, just enjoy it while you are hot. Of course, there are also "one eel and three eels" in the ancient house, which are unique.
A part of the eel rice is divided into each, divided into 4 copies. Eat directly, a part of Zoshan sunflower, mountain pepper, sesame, shallots, seaweed mix well, and the other add tea soup or juice to make soup rice, the rest is played by people.
This method of eating is rumored to be from the century -old shop "Penglai Xuan". Because of the sense of ritual, and can taste the different flavors of eel rice, it is very popular in Nagoya. Fan specialty store.
For eel rice enthusiasts before and after the summer, it is a good time for the eel rice lover. The good shops that have been in private for many years can be turned out to "see the sun again."
Eel
Address: No. 580, Yuyuan Road
Recommended order: 150 yuan in eel weighs
Business hours: 11: 00-14: 00, 17: 00-21: 00
Eel weight is a veritable eel rice specialty store: there is no menu, only one eel rice (eel weight) is only provided. The store is operated by a Shanghai couple, and the uncle cooks, and the aunt greets (now it will be replaced by the clerk). Anyone who likes eel rice has eaten his house for a while.
The small shop is on the Yuyuan Road, there is only one bar on the bar, it is difficult to turn around. Do not accept the reservation, and do not accept 2 people Share. Fortunately, the guests do n’t rub it.
The grilled eel with eel is also the stream of Kanto. You must go through the "three brushes and three roasters" to kill the river eel and clean it at 5 in the morning. Essence
The thickness of his eel fertilizer was shocked! Open the lacquer box, and the entire two large pieces of eel rice are rushed into the sight, and there is almost no rice. Open the fish, and the sticky fish skin is adapted into the eyes. With a chopstick, you can feel solid and Q bombs.
The matching radish side dishes are the most colorful, sweet and sour, and the fat and glutinous eel rice has become refreshing. The guests in the store often add up 1 or twice.
Eel king
Address: 2nd Floor, Xietai Center, No. 88 Zunyi South Road
Recommended order: Eel rice 180 yuan eel eel three eaten 180 yuan
Business hours: 11: 30-14: 00, 17: 30-22: 00
The eel king is the veritable eel rice NO.1 in the hearts of many Shanghai old ladies. The shop was originally opened at the intersection of Xianxia Road and Anlong Road.
The boss Zhang Tao is known as "the man who can grill eel in Shanghai". In the early years, the "eel" was well -known. The juice is always around.
The eel kills it every day, and the barbecue eel table is almost transparent in front of the diners. If you sit on the bar, you can see the mystery of eel rice.
Zhang Tao's grilled eels followed the Kanto roasting method. Both the white roasted and the roasted was steamed in advance. Only "Eel Eat" was specifically indicated that it was "Kansai Bake". The killing eel was directly grilled. The oil dripped on the charcoal and made a sound "呲呲--". The appetite was mobilized.
Big flavored eel
Address: No. 342 Middle Road in Urumqi (near Fuxing West Road)
Recommended order: Nagoya eel three eats 160 yuan
Business hours: 11: 00-15: 00, 17: 00-22: 00
The flavored eel on the middle of Urumqi is Shanghai's most famous wooden barrel eel rice. The narrow door is not eye -catching on this lively street, but there is no hole in it.
Downstairs is a row of single seats, with a row of sake on the wall. There are two floors upstairs. There are tatami and ordinary dining tables. Feeling.
It focuses on Nagoya eels, and the barrel is dressed. First, eat the original flavor, taste the delicious and fleshy of the eel leather. Secondly, the taste of sesame mustard, and the taste of the sea suddenly came.
Finally, add green onion and broth, and use a bowl of eel rice rice as the end. Those who like to eat tea and rice must not be able to stop it.
Raising eel house
Address: No. 53, Rose Fang, No. 16, Huichuan Road (Zhongshan Park Store)
Recommended order: 185 yuan high -end eel rice
Business hours: 11: 30-14: 00, 17: 30-22: 00
Shanghai eel rice is the mainstream of Kanto. It is rare to start with the traditional Kansai genres like Laei Eels.
The shop was first opened on Guyang Road, and now it is now on the top floor of the Rose Shop (another Jinhongqiao Store). Push the wooden movement door, and you can see the live eels raised in the water tank.
The grilled eel uses long charcoal, stable and lasting firepower to roast eels with crispy meat, the epidermis is crispy, slightly oily, and more elastic.The crispy eel skin is covered with thick burnt juice, wrapped in slightly burnt fish, and the refreshing and simple technique can also weaken the fatness of the eel.Responsible editor: Hattie
Author: RUKA
Photography: VC
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