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Looking for food in the distance

Author:Cultural Tourism China Time:2022.07.23

During the summer, the last solar terms in the summer, the most intense sunlight and the highest temperature in the year. There are different dietary customs in various places at this time, and in such hot weather, how to wake up taste buds through food is also concerned. In this issue, "Four Seasons", let us explore and taste those summer foods that are cool and cool in the "Wanli Road, Reading Wanjuan Books".

Ecstasy Snow

Luo Yunchuan

▲ Plumb powder Luo Xiaoya Photo

Speaking of Yunnan snacks, what do you think of first? I'm afraid it is a bridge. But for people living in Yunnan, the rice noodles are more homely. At the time of midsummer, Liangmi Noodles also became the protagonist who was not allowed to be. In the assorted and cool rice noodles, the rice noodles with boiling water are over cold water, drained the water, put it in a bowl, put on cooked chicken shredded chicken, crispy (fried pork belly), braised eggs, sea shredded, carrot shreds, white radish shredded, cooked leeks, cooked leeks, Diversion, fungus, mint, coriander, add fried peanut rice fragmented, fried sesame, salted soy sauce, sweet soy sauce, pepper oil, chili oil, onion ginger juice, etc. All. Among them, sweet soy sauce is the unique secret of Liangmi, and I have never seen it elsewhere. Kunming people buy sweet soy sauce, and most of them are preferred. Although Tuodong is now only the name of a road in Kunming, in the Tang Dynasty, the capital of Nanzhao was Dali, and Top Dongcheng was set up in Kunming. When I went to elementary school, I organized an outing. Lunch was a Liangmi line made by people on the spot. I ate it, had a stomach, and left a lot of psychological shadows. After many years, I dared to face the challenges and temptations of Liangmi wire again.

Rice line, Guangxi, Hunan, Jiangxi and other places are called rice noodles. Tracing the source, the term "rice noodles" has a history of at least 700 years. There is poems as evidence -Xie Xie in the Southern Song Dynasty has a poem "Xie Ren Hui Mi Kilg": "Jade grain Bai Ge, who has a merits full of people. , Flying Thunder falls nine levels. Zhang Huayao Line, Strings can be bent again. The sea of soup is boiling, and the jade dragon tips ... "It vividly describes the scene of rice noodles and cooking. And the rice noodle, the poem "Liu Jiancang's fried rice noodles as a cake Yu Yun for the Pan Ye's hometown" in the Northern Song Dynasty Su Shi's poem "Liu Jiancang's fried rice noodles" mentioned it, but it was not the same as the rice noodles we are talking about now.

Hunan rice noodles are divided into round powder and flat powder. In Yunnan, people call the round of rice noodles, and the flat powder is called rolling powder. Rolling powder is a rice peel formed after the rice slurry is steamed. It can be eaten with vegetables like a pancake or cut into flat strips. Fried sauce cooling powder, chicken shredded roll powder, etc. are common snacks.

There is also a kind of thing called rice cold shrimp in Yunnan. It is grinded with rice and cooked. It leaks into a cold basin with a colander. Its shape is a bit like small shrimp, so it is named. Remove the rice cold shrimp into the bowl with a colander, add the cool brown sugar water that is boiled, and add water to the rose petals and sugar, which is made of rose petals and sugar. The traditional rose rice cold shrimp is made The entrance is cool, sweet and soft.

In addition to the cold rice noodles, cool rolls, and rice cold shrimp, the jelly occupies a place in summer summer snacks. The material is divided, there are rice jelly, pea jelly, buckwheat, etc. It seems that Sichuan's jelly is more famous. Generally, the Sichuan cuisine has a snack called "North Sichuan Jelly". In these years, the "sad jelly" is popular in the north and south of the river. Yunnan's jelly has its own characteristics. For example, grabbing the powder is to use a special -made iron skin shovel to grab the plane on the broad bean frozen powder, let the frozen powder drill out of the small strip from the hole to enter the bowl, and pour the salty and sweet seasonings. I love pea flour. Once I went back to Kunming, my dad deliberately went to a far place to buy it back. The golden pea powder is cut into a bowl of growth, and ginger, garlic, coriander, sweet soy sauce, salty soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, pepper oil, monosodium glutamate, salt, pepper noodles, oil pepper, etc. are delicious. Lijiang's chicken pea jelly, the characteristics are all on the main ingredients. Chicken peas are like mung beans, pale green, flat and round. After cooking, it is gray -white. It is said that it is delicate and fragrant than other peas. I haven't eaten much, I don't know it.

Now let's talk about Yunnan summer drinks. Papaya water should be the main general in the traditional camp. Papaya water, Sichuan is called ice powder. Its main ingredients are produced from ice powder trees. Ice powder trees are named fake acid, also known as pearl lotus. Put the papaya seeds, the fake acid pulp seeds in the gauze pocket, put it in the cold boiling water and rub it, produce mucus, and then static to make it condense like jelly. When eating, dig a piece of papaya with a spoon and freeze into the bowl, break it, add brown sugar, rose sugar juice or honey, a spoonful of entrance, cool and sweet. Today, Papaya Water has also played "Jiafa", and small dumplings, ice powder, fruits, and fruits ice powder, fruits ice powder and cool shrimp, etc.

In the end, the unique martial arts of Yunnan snacks and rivers and lakes -one palm snow. Although I was born in Dali, I had no chance to see this kind of local snacks, so it was more mysterious for me. It was quite like Yang Yong's "Ecstasy" in Yang Yong's novel "The Condor Heroes". According to reports, the ancient snow was known as honey snow, which is a natural drink. There are two highlights of its system. One is naturally not easy to take materials, and the other is that the production process has a sense of "behavior art". Dali is known for its wind, flowers, snow, and moon. Cangshan Snow and Erhai Moon. This snow is taken from the snow of Cangshan. Climb the towering mountains in the early morning, shovel snow to put in the back, compact, and cover it with straw or quilt. When making, use a wooden spoon to control a spoonful of snow, press it with your hand into palm shape, move the diners, and put on a chopsticks with a copper coin. You can suck and enjoy the peony stew. One palm snow is a good product in Dali March Street held in March of the lunar calendar each year. The ordinary things were like a treasure in my mind. It is summer, and there is no snow in summer, because Cangshan is hard to see snow in summer. Therefore, let us meditate on its name, snow, cool the world.

The taste stored in the masterpiece

Party Yunfengwen/Picture

▲ The food in the masterpieces is fascinating

There were no refrigerators in ancient times. Those who can eat ice in summer are either rich or expensive. More than 1,000 years ago, Japan's Qing Shaonan Yan wrote in the "Elegant Things" in the essay collection "Pillow Grass" Volume 3: "Put the ice in Gan Ge, it is in the new golden bowl." In more than 1,000 years It is indeed an elegant thing to eat ice in the first summer. Today, eating ice in summer is common, but the American poet William Carlos Williams still has a sensational effect. He told the experience of eating ice in summer in the poem "Stupid Strip": "I have eaten//Plum in the refrigerator // that may/it may // I am forgive me/they forgive me/they It's so delicious/so sweet/so cool. "Just divided it, letting an ordinary thing a milestone in the history of world literature? In fact, this is the innovation of literary concepts.

In addition to exquisite methods, special situations will also upgrade ordinary food to delicious.

Labor makes ordinary food a food. In Chapter 3 of Russian writer Lev Tolstoy's novel "Anna Carenina". In the summer, Lvin, who cut grass in the field in the field, ate the bubbles given to him by the crops. The method of bubble bread is very simple: put the bread in the bowl, crush it with a spoon handle, pour the water in the grinding knife box, and then study the bread and sprinkle a little salt. The foam noodle tastes very good, and Levin doesn't want to go home for dinner as soon as he eats.

In the war, it was already good to eat. In the state of hunger, people's requirements for food have also been reduced. Sato is food, and sometimes eating something will also become an important node in life. In the novel of American writer Margaret Mitchell's novel "The Beauty of the Chaos", Si Jiali has become a symbol of transformation by eating radish. In Chapter 25 of "The Beauty of the Chaos", Si Jiali found a radish in the vegetable field. Go down. When she stood up, a certain kind of charm that was integrated with the youth, appearance and implicit tenderness had disappeared from her face. This radish has become a milestone in Sheri's life. What are the days before? The stewed cabbage floats in the gorgeous soup in the rainbow. Broad beans are piled into small mountains in the colorful porcelain pots ... Death and war cannot make S Jiali cry, but the food can be.

The journey of science fiction is the sea of stars. Can you cook in the spacecraft? Science fiction writers rarely consider cooking and eating. Sometimes they mention protein blocks that supplement energy, which makes people who love food have less longing for the future. Science fiction mentioned that food is mostly when the role is in trouble. There is no way, you can only grow potatoes or something. However, a lot of food mentioned in French writer Reller Verina's novel "20,000 Miles under the Sea". The sailing starting in July 1867 made people open. In the tenth chapter of the previous part, the Captain Nisaka said: "You think it is the meat on the terrestrial animal, but it is just a turtle's spine . This is a dolphin liver. You think it is pork chowder ... "The food map on the bottom of the sea is more fascinating than on the land. This work published in 1870 has reflected the importance of the ocean. Captain of the Nyeboat even said: "Earth begins with the ocean, maybe it will eventually return to the ocean in the future!"

Classic literary works are rarely involved in the plot of ordering. After all, the food in literary works is a prop, not a simple newspaper name and a free pen. In the first part of "Anna Kalenina", there is a section of the bridge of ordering. Obronzki uses Russian to order. The waiter repeats it in French. The scene is funny. Of course, some people who like food are anorexia. In Austrian writer Kafka's novel "Hunger Artist", it has shaped an artist to realize his hunger performance and break through his own performance limitations to death to reach the highest state.

There are many foods and eating methods in foreign literary works. In American writer Merville's novel "White Whale", not only the origin of Starbucks -the big deputy Barbak who loves coffee, but also the method of catfish hodgepodes mentioned in Chapter 15: "This is this is What is made with watery clams, clams are not much bigger than hazelnuts, and some mashed hard breads and slices of fine slices are added; A reflection of special interpersonal relationships. In Chapter 5 of the Portuguese writer Saramago's novel "The Chronicle of the Monastery", Barmontida and other Baltasas had eaten with a spoon he used after eating, so Balt Rameo Lorellenso The priest announced that the two were married. This magical interpersonal relationship also appeared in the novel of the Chinese American writer Tan Enmei. Mom said to Lina, "Your future husband will be a twist. There will be a few rice grains left in your bowl, and there will be a few twisters on his face!" Is the rice granules related to twes? Maybe this is the way overseas Chinese convey concepts.

The coolness of the seal in the masterpieces is still refreshing today. The masterpiece has a fresh -keeping function. The taste stored in it can span thousands of miles for thousands of years, which is still fascinating.

The hotter and hotter, the hot pot

Wang Xuejuan text/picture

▲ Sichuan hot pot

"What do you usually sell in the hot pot restaurant in the hot pot restaurant over there?" This question from foreign friends asked me directly. Is it season to eat hot pot? I heard unheard. In our Sichuan, hot pot is an indispensable taste reward throughout the year. Friends gathering, lovers date, family reunion, business trip ... and even no reason. If you want to eat, you can get a hot pot. In the hot summer, with the boiling hot pot, sweating in the spicy and spicy fragrance, talking about life in the spicy and fresh fragrance. This is the daily hot pot of Sichuan people in summer.

It is not difficult to imagine that if you are in the north of more than 30 degrees Celsius, everyone wants to find a air -conditioned room for dinner, who will go to the street to feel the heat wave attack? In Sichuan, after the sun fell, the weather gradually became cool, and the nightlife of citizens had just begun. Even in restaurants with air conditioners, many people are willing to sit outside, blow the "industrial style" brought by the cool wind or fan in summer, and eat the "Barba Banquet" with dozens of guests who do not know each other. With a smile, the fatigue of a day seems to be completely released.

In the global Sichuan food system, hot pot is the most well -known gear. Although it is not necessary to eat hot pot, how to eat is often a bit particular. Due to different practices and forms, people will choose different types of eating, spicy, and steamed vegetables according to their preferences.

It's hard to imagine the situation of a person to eat hot pot, which is a bit embarrassing and desolate. Popularly, it is not easy to order. If there is no company, you can also choose to order a dish. As long as you need to point Jiangshan in front of the dishes, the clerk will put it into the bamboo basket in the pot. After a while, a bowl of private customized "hot pot" is on the table. Some people in Sichuan said that the counterfeit is "a person's hot pot", and the hot pot is "a group of people."

In the food capital, the critical buds of people's taste buds exceeded their attachment to form. In Chengdu, you can often see the rowed long lines in the inconspicuous horn, or the legendary "Flying Museum". Here, one after another calling for the noise of "boss" to chat with his throat, he was sweating in the smoke, and there was a kind of fireworks on earth, the real lively and fun in the world.

When the guest, the string seems to be a bit unable to go on the table, then go to the hot pot restaurant. "Previous shabu -shabu!" Half half of the shabu -shabu -shabu was mild and half spicy. Such instructions generally represented the guests invited from other places. Sichuan people please eat hot pot. They will prepare a transition and buffer for the guests attentively, and then raise the red pot in the middle of the bruises: "Eat, eat, not spicy, don't lie to you!"

Local gatherings will not order the white pot of clear soup at all. Someone on the Internet teased: "The last compromise of the Sichuan people is -then orderly shabu -shabu." It can be seen that the local people's love for spicy and fragrant has penetrated the gene. Well, the "correct posture" of hot pot should be spicy, extreme, and exciting, otherwise why do you want to make a hot pot?

Once you find that you are shabu -shabu, there is a probability that someone is uncomfortable. But you will find that those who claim to be sore, uncomfortable with the stomach, or ca n’t eat spicy food, have been stirring in the red pot, and the white pot is probably no one spoiled, only lonely boiling alone. After a big meal, their pain seemed to stay away from the impact of pepper and the anesthesia of peppercorns for the time being, and then it was not talked about, and then everyone was disgusted: "I want to order a red pot!" Sichuan people have similar magical experiences -after eating hot pot, they have a cold, and their throats are not painful. I have experienced it myself, but Xu is a coincidence and is not worth promoting.

It is also strange that Sichuan people seem to have the ability to discern when the dishes in the hot pot are cooked. No one teaches you how to judge. In such a national hot pot environment, you have known since childhood. "The hairy belly is hot for about 10 seconds, and the three lifts and three plackets. After a long time, it will be old and difficult to chew; the duck sausages should be seven up and eight, the rolling is broken, it tastes crispy and refreshing ..." In order to popularize the hot pot to foreign friends In recent years, I have also mastered some "official claims" about the fire. But in fact, there is not so much particular attention, and it does not matter that it is not authentic. Each taste is different. If you eat more times, you will naturally find the dishes that suits you most and cook time. The dishes have their own tastes, but many people have rarely realized the "perfect match" of summer hot pot. Although there are various beverages on the market, the best selling is ice powder and ice bean milk in hot pot restaurants. Among them, ice powder is a well -deserved darling on the famous summer snacks and hot pot tables in Sichuan and Chongqing. Put a bowl in the hot summer, and I saw a thin layer of smoothing on the crystal clear ice powder, and then poured two spoons of sticky brown sugar water. Shengjin relieves the heat, so you can enjoy it.

The summer is here, and the heat value of hot pot restaurants has soared. When you travel to Sichuan in summer, you must have the opportunity to experience the charm of summer hot pot, be a comfortable Sichuan person, and enjoy a warm and leisurely spicy life.

Enjoy the cool "three Qin set meals"

Zhao Mingnan Qin Yi

▲ A "Sanqin set meal" composed of Liangpi, meat clip and Bingfeng Zhao Mingnan

Liangpi's spicy oil is more oil, Bingfeng must be frozen, the meat clip is mainly lean meat, it is suitable for warm and cool ... In summer, in Xi'an in summer, in a large or small restaurant, people who buy lunch and dinner in this way Not a minority.

Because of the frequent combination, in recent years, the cool skin that has been felt in recent years, the meat buns that make people bloom, and the old -fashioned beverage ice peaks that carry the universal memory of Xi'an are given the reputation of the "Sanqin package". For foreign tourists, these three are the same as lamb and "BIANGBIANG Noodles" to become a must -have food to play in Xi'an.

The crystal clear color and the texture of soft glutinous muscles are matched with cold vegetables such as bean sprouts, gluten, celery, cucumber shreds, etc. The cold skin has become the first choice for summer diet with the convenience of its instant food and pleasant refreshing taste. Liangpi is divided into dough and rice skin. As the name suggests, it is made of rice slurry or batter flating, steaming, cooling, and cutting. Among them, garlic juice and vinegar water are important flavors, and their souls eventually depend on pepper to give.

The sourness of vinegar often stimulates people's taste buds, and different vinegar also makes the taste of Liangpi different. The Qin Town of Huxian County is known for Mippi. The noodles of Baoji in the West Government of Guanzhong. The incense vinegar is an excellent flavor of the dough, which fully infiltrates the delicious level of deliciousness.

There are many types of Liangpi and difficulty in Xi'an. It is difficult to say that Liangpi can best represent Shaanxi taste, because they are similar and different, each with its own. On the streets of Xi'an, you can see the rice peel in Qinzhen of the county, the rolling noodles of Baoji Qishan, the baebing of the wind, the hot rice skin in the Han Dynasty, the steamed noodles of the well -being, etc. In the summer, it is particularly favored by the diners. Although these Liangpi comes from different places, the production adheres to a basic process.

The meat clip is also a well -known Shaanxi diet that the people in the country, and there have been a grammatical argument why it is not the grammar of "馍". Here are cakes, including Bai Ji and Qianlian oil ravioli. Most of the meat is pork. It must be fat and thin. Pork is a bacon, so -called raw meat, which has appeared as early as the Warring States Period, called "cold meat". At that time, South Korea, located in the Qin, Jinyu Triangle area, was famous for making raw meat. After Qin was destroyed, the meat was also introduced into Changan. Another saying is that because the monthly monthly monthly, the pork is cooked in the lunar month.

Smu juice meat is cooked with many sewing blessings. The formulas are slightly different, but it is nothing more than pepper, star anise, cinnamon, grass fruit, lilac, meat -cordon, and other seasonings. There are more than 20 species. Pork is usually used for the superior pork belly, and 10 catties of meat is often only 5 and a half pounds left. It is because the meat is gradually "melting" in the brine, and it has achieved its rotten and fragrant taste. The chopped aroma overflowing the fragrance of the fragrant meat, put it in the cake that was just baked, and the hot gas rushed. This process was enough to make people swallowed repeatedly. The cake must be rubbed out by hand and roasted in the soil stove. It is unique with its crispy thousand -layer cake in the crispy thousand -layer cake in Shaanxi. The simplicity and flatness of the cake just set off the fat and richness of the meat. Perhaps the two personalities are easier to achieve each other and improve each other. The collision brought by the contrast is created. Trying is a coincidence of an instant, leaving eternal interdependence from then on.

The meat clip shops in Xi'an are usually opened with Liangpi Store. There are also places for sale of Liangpi. It seems difficult to verify, and the emergence of Bingfeng has made the three of the three become a popular fashion. Nowadays, even foreigners know that eating Liangpi must be "authentic" with meat crickets and Bingfeng. Bingfeng is an orange soda often drinking Xi'an people. We drink it when we drink it in the 80s. Its taste is not amazing. It seems not much different from the popular orange soda. Cool and refreshing. Or because the supplies were not abundant in the past, its deliciousness could stay in memory for a long time. After growing up, I saw so many complex and diverse drinks, and the wish of a bottle of ice peak became simpler, that is, to regain the taste of a city in the depth of memory.

When I was young, I did not have the title of "Sanqin package", nor was this way of eating. It may be that at that time, it was limited by living conditions. People could not enjoy a variety of foods at the same time in the form of a package. With the development of cities and the improvement of quality of life, a single food is upgraded to the "Sanqin package", which is unchanged is the dietary preferences and habits of old Shaanxi people. The memory of familiar food in the past has achieved a current trend. "Three Qin Packages", the summer taste that the old Shaanxi people can't wipe out, let's feel its cool and pleasant together!

"China Culture News" on July 23, 2022

The 4th version published a special report

"Far Far Farming Food Paper Dial Summer"

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Editor -in -chief: Chen Xiaoyue