Find Jiangnan Food 丨 Lenn Lai Bowl Fan Cold Noodles
Author:Jiangnan Times Time:2022.07.21
(one)
When it is hot, cold noodles will be launched in various noodle shops. The big signboard "Fan Cold Noodles" at the door of the store.
Why is the cold noodle blowing, not water rush? It makes sense. There is a secret of eating dumplings in the northerners, called "Original Soup", which is to eat dumplings to drink a bowl of raw soup at the same time, that is, the soup of this plate of dumplings. Because this bowl of dumpling soup has part of the essence of this plate of dumplings, it is the flour essence sticking to the surface of the dumplings. Drinking this bowl of dumplings soup not only absorbs the essence of the noodles that should not be lost, but also helps the human body digestion. In the same way, the surface layer of the water also has the essence of the surface. If the noodles are flushed with the water, although it can be cold, it also flushes some good things. Blowing it with a fan, you will keep the essence of the surface sticky on the surface of the water surface. Essence
Doing fan cold noodles also have skills. The noodles are raised from boiling water, sprinkled with salt slightly, drizzled with sesame oil, gently raised with long bamboo chopsticks, and then provoked, and the fan blew wildly. Proke the fans with cold faces, continue to wind, and relax from time to time to prevent the knotting of the block. In the process of picking the noodles, the noodles are gradually formed, and some of them should form flattes to set aside.
(two)
The fan cold noodles should be used for food, and it must be mixed after the feeding. You can add shrimp soy sauce+sesame oil, which is called shrimp noodles; you can add Taicang bad oil+sesame oil, which is called bad oil noodles; the most common is onion oil, called onion oil noodles. The stores generally add a certain amount of broth to the three essential oil seasonings, dilute them into halogen, and serve the bowls. The diners take their own needs, each has their own love, choose a certain kind of halogen, one bowl and two spoons, self -reliant noodles to eat. Mixing noodles pays attention to methods, but also pay attention to mentality. Mom mixes noodles for children, loves noodles, and dances. The child mixed noodles for the elderly, spilled a filial piety into the noodles.
I like onion oil noodles the most. During my work in Suzhou Radio and Television, the unit took a graduate course class and invited a professor of Beiguang every week to teach a day of lessons. Lunch is often accompanied by me. I often ask teachers to eat noodles, eat meat noodles and burst fish noodles, and eat green onion oil noodles when it is hot. Every time, the teacher eats it with great food. Listening to the same praise, it makes me a little curious and a little wondering. Wouldn't the northern people not make onion oil noodles? The answer is, do it, but the taste is far worse than Suzhou. why is that? Under the fine, there is also a secret to make green onion oil noodles in Suzhou people.
The first is to boil onion oil.
To choose the right onion, it is a variety of thin and long -term "white beard" roots, which is called Suzhou Green onion. Buy the green onion home and treat them in sections, that is, it is divided into three parts: green onion, white, and green onion. The green onion is cut into one inch long, and the green onion can be broken. The oil pan, the rapeseed oil is the best, the oil is 85 degrees, and the white beard must be put into the pan before it can be turned off. At this moment, your kitchen is filled with strong shallots inside and outside, so you understand that the green onion is hidden in the roots of the onion. Pick up the slightly dry roots and abandon it, and put the onion into the pot. When the oil temperature drops to 30 degrees, you can put the green onion into the pot and add a little salt. Such a bowl of shallots not only keeps the fragrance of green onion, but also shows the beauty of green onions. Amber white and green onion are still green. Use a spoonful of shallots to mix noodles, which can be described as full of color and fragrance!
(three)
Fan cold -faced fine processing is "two -sided yellow".
In fact, there are two situations. One is to eat cold noodles at noon. If there are too many noodles, put the head of the basket and fry dinner. Another is to make a "two -sided yellow", that is, when blowing the fan, the noodles are loosened into a flat block shape, which is actually a billet for fried noodles.
In the past two years, some noodle restaurants in Suzhou have also pushed "two -sided yellow", which is a bit godly. It is said that a certain celebrity said that "two sides of yellow" is "emperor in the face". But many people don't even talk about it after eating. I asked, where is the not spiritual? It is fried noodles, hard states, like eating instant noodles. I understand that too much oil uses the word "fried" into the word "氽". "Two -sided yellow" is the most "fried" word, not "氽"!
Fry noodles, use a flat iron pot, put a small oil, use the fire to fry the noodles of the fan over. The noodles should not be too thin. Slowly fry, be patient, fry until all are yellow, turn over and fry, and fry the other side. The highest state of "two sides of yellow" is: crispy outside and soft inside. What people want to taste is the deliciousness of the water.
(Four)
The head of Suzhou noodles can list two or three hundred. In fact, it is not most important to pour the head. The important thing is to make a bowl of light. It is called Yangchun Noodles, and the sky is hot. The noodle restaurant still has to put the real kung fu on the light. For example, the quality of the water surface of Yangchun noodles, is the noodles added with egg white? How many noodles are rolling? For another example, the cold surface of the fan is thick, small, wide, or wide? What type of noodles are most suitable for people commonly used by people? Is the "two -sided yellow yellow" surface of Xiaogu or Middle? Why? All need to work hard to study and test.
Ye Zhengting (the author is the honorary chairman of the Suzhou Folk Artists Association, a famous writer, gourmet)
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