"People's Daily Overseas Edition", whole version: Yunnan coffee is better!

July 8th

"People's Daily Overseas Edition" published a whole version of the article

In the past in the international market, due to extensive processing methods and unstable quality control, Yunnan Coffee Bean is only used as commercial beans and international coffee giants such as Nestlé and Starbucks at a low price of 10 to 20 cents in New York. Essence Today, Ruixing's high -end product line "Little Black Cup" launched the Yunnan Coffee Series after the launch of the Ethiopian Yelga Snow Series; Starbucks also included Yunnan coffee beans in its high -end brand "Starbucks Selection" product line; the more Yue More and more boutique cafe operators came to Yunnan Coffee Original place to find a special boutique bean for their own coffee shops ...

In October 2021, the first phase of the Fifteenth Conference of the Convention on the Biological Diversity Convention of the United Nations was held in Kunming, Yunnan. During the meeting, Yunnan coffee selected by the tea break praised domestic and foreign guests. From commercial beans to boutique beans, how can Yunnan coffee move towards high -quality and win market recognition?

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Refined management, close the source

Car to Pu'er City, Yunnan Province, follow Chashan and Huahai, and reporters came to Linrun Coffee Manor. The North Tropic of Cancer passed through Pu'er, Yunnan. In 1988, Nestlé Company fancy the superior natural conditions here. In the local area of ​​the coffee industry, Da Kaihe Village, where Lin Run Manor is located, is one of the earliest villages with large -scale planting coffee beans.

"At that time, the coffee farmers in the village specifically gave the North Shisai -breed commercial beans. wry smile.

Hua Honglin's daughter Huarun Mei recalled that there was no fermentation pool and cleaning pool before. The villagers would put the peeled coffee beans in a sack and fermented. "As long as you meet the passing line of the acquisition standard, the quality of quality is a price. Coffee farmers do not have high requirements for coffee quality. They only treat this as a crop that sells abroad. After the harvest, someone will buy it." Essence

The coffee farmers of Yunnan Tianyu Coffee Farmers' Professional Cooperative showed the newly picked coffee beans. Photo by Lu Lei

In 2015, China Resources Mei, who graduated from college, returned to Dakaihe Village. She also returned with her and the young "second generation" in the village. In those two years, it was precisely the low point of the international futures price of coffee, and the losses of coffee farmers were heavy. Do you continue to be the raw material supplier of foreign companies? China Resources Mei realized that there is good beans to get rid of the restraint of futures prices. If you want to jump out of a single concentrated acquisition model, you must follow the fine line.

"Our beans have a history of nearly 40 years. It is appropriate to use the name of the village name to be the brand name. In 2016, the Da Kaihe coffee was born. In the 7,000 acres of coffee gardens in the village, there were many young noodle holes worn in the fields, and they were busy repairing and drying fruit.

Since then, the coffee fresh fruit in the village's coffee treatment station is no longer mixed with red and green, but a red red. "To improve the quality, we must start from the source. We ask all red fruits to pick and control the quality of fresh coffee." China Resources said, "In addition, we strengthen field management and reduce the density of excessive planting at the same time. Reduce the use of glyphosate and change the more extensive planting model in the past. In the coffee garden, it is matched with planting tall shade trees to create a planting environment that is more suitable for coffee trees. "

In a cafe in Shuangjiang County, Lincang City, Yunnan Province, the barista is grinding coffee beans. Xinhua News Agency reporter Hu Chao

From fresh fruit to coffee beans, you need to go through raw beans. In the past, in Dakaihe Village, the raw bean treatment of coffee was only washed, and the single treatment method also made the coffee flavor more monotonous. In order to make their own coffee more flavor, China Resources Mei signed up for the training course for Coffee raw bean treatment in Pu'er City, and brought the treatment methods such as sun exposure, honey treatment and double anaerobic fermentation back to Da Kaihe. "Washing has different doors. Once I saw the unique water washing method on the Internet, soaked the beans in the water after taking off the fruit. I found that the beans made by this have obvious citrus flavor. "China Runmei said, continuous learning and progress can find the most suitable way to deal with their own beans.

Nowadays, more and more boutique cafe operators from Beijing, Shanghai and other places have come to Dakaihe to buy high -quality beans at the origin of the origin as a special product of their own coffee shops. The output of Da Kaihe Coffee has increased from 4 tons to 60 tons from the initial annual output of 4 tons. The market demand is still rising steadily, and the sales revenue of boutique accounts for 60%. With the efforts of a batch of dealers and coffee farmers like China Resources Mei, the boutique rate of Yunnan coffee has increased year by year. From 2014 to 2022, the proportion of boutique coffee increased from about 1%to 8%.

Through the technical level, product control is more accurate

Boiling water infiltrate the filter paper, and the founder of Xinyi coffee Luo Yingao tilted the kettle in his hand slightly. The water flow was concentric circularly through the filter paper that has been fully expanded on the filter paper to slowly extract. "Except for flower fragrance and fruit acid, there is a taste of rice wine in the aftertaste." Luo Yingao told reporters. Here, the reporter finds coffee beans for red wine fermentation treatment.

In 2014, Luo Yingao and Shi Yixin founded the Xinyi Coffee brand. "At that time, I knew nothing about coffee. Yixin liked coffee, and the brand name was taken from her name." Luo Yingao said that now Xinyi Coffee has become one of the most popular coffee brands in the local area.

In Xinyi Coffee Baking Studio, a baking machine leaned against the wall. Looking at some years, the metal body was still bright. "This is our first coffee roasting machine. It cost more than 80,000 yuan. I bought it as soon as I opened the store." Luo Yingao introduced, "Making coffee is like opening a restaurant, and the meals are controlled by ourselves. I have never thought that using the cooked beans of others, I have to be a 'chef', choose beans, roasted, and quality control. "A good cup of coffee, watching beans at six points, looking at roasting at three points, and brewing. From raw beans to cooked beans. During the baking process, the chloride in raw beans gradually disappeared, releasing various flavors of fruit acid. Baking properly, you can present these beautiful flavors, and it will cover them too much.

In the Xinyi coffee shop in Simao District, Pu'er City, Yunnan Province, Luo Yingao was cleaning up coffee utensils. Photo by Lu Lei

"In the beginning, I took the machine to make a blindness, and I couldn't make the taste I wanted." In order to improve the technology, in 2014, Luo Yin Gao came to Beijing and signed up for the baking training class to bring the knowledge of learning back to Pu'er. "Use different baking techniques to bring out the characteristics of different manor beans itself, which requires the bakeist's just right operation. For example, shallow roasting can highlight the fruit acid and flower and fruit aroma of boutique coffee beans with distinctive characteristics. Moderate baking. The taste is soft, the sourness is relatively balanced, and it is easier to be accepted by the public. "

In 2015, during the first Yunnan Coffee Raw Bean Contest, Luo Yin Gao became the raw bean bakers of the organizer. Essence In 2017, in the National Finals of the Toper Cup Coffee Baking Masters, Luo Yin Gao, who played as the Pu'er Division, won the third place in the country.

"Not only do you have to do it, you also have to drink coffee clearly. This is not easy." Luo Yingao said, "The quality of a cup of coffee internationally is mainly performed by cup tests, and the percentage is scored. Qualifications, only about 2,000 people have this title in China. "

In order to drink coffee, Luo Yin Gao and his wife signed up for the training course for the International Coffee Testing in Yunnan International Coffee Trading Center in 2016, and passed the exam smoothly to get the Arabica coffee Q-Grader certificate. "There are 10 indicators for coffee cups. We need to identify 36 different smell bottles, remember the flavor of maple syrup, malt, lemon, etc., and taste the characteristics of different coffee." Luo Yingao said.

In the seventh Yunnan Coffee Raw Bean Contest, the judges evaluated the coffee beans on the way to test the coffee beans. Photo by Lu Lei

"Become a professionals, you can be more confident in their own products." After that, Luo Yin and his wife selected the original beans from the high -quality manor to make a cup test. Based on the characteristics of the original bean characteristics, it was confirmed that the baking curve and baking degree were processed into standardized products. Turn off the technology to do good control. "The place of origin is the farthest from consumers. Every product of Xinyi Coffee is finely polished and brings the unique taste of the origin to consumers." Shi Yixin said.

"The degree of professionalism in the coffee industry is getting higher and higher. We have held many Yunnan Coffee Raw Bean Contests. The biggest feeling is that the performance of Yunnan coffee beans has improved greatly." Liu Haifeng, deputy general manager of Yunnan International Coffee Trading Center, said, "2015, in 2015, The first Yunnan Coffee Raw Bean Contest was only 50%, and the average score of the cup test was 79.95 points. By the 6th contest of 2021, the average score of the cup test has increased to more than 82 points. "

Extend the industrial chain, product diversification

"From seeds to cups, this is our brand philosophy." Deng Jia, the general manager of Pu'er Aiyi Manor Coffee Co., Ltd. sitting in Pu'er City, introduced to reporters.

The shadow of Aihuan Manor everywhere in Pu'er in Yunnan. The Aihuan Manor Rain Forest Coffee Manor, which is 100 kilometers away, introduced and specifically planted 34 main varieties from various coffee producing areas of the world. It has also maintained coffee and also maintains the diversity of natural environment. It has been certified by the International Rain Forest Alliance. The Aihuan Manor Coffee Processing Plant in the Outreach Industrial Park has a full set of production lines such as color selection machines, baking machines, and packaging machines, which can realize all microcomputer operations. Coffee of coffee in the same place of production can extract 16 different flavors of coffee products. In the coffee store in the city of Aihuan Manor, citizens sitting and taking a while to chat and chat, becoming the first window of the brand offline experience.

"Before 2012, we were just raw materials suppliers, selling coffee beans to Starbucks and other European and American customers at the futures price." Deng family said, "In 2012, we began to make up their minds to introduce equipment to create a full industry chain, and to bring the coffee industry to Deep processing development. "

Why transform from raw materials to manufacturers and deeply process their own brands and products? The Deng family has calculated a account. Coffee raw bean international futures price fluctuate between 10 yuan/kg to 30/kg. After deep processing mature beans, it can be sold more than 120 yuan/kg. The high value -added generated by the weight and deep processing process is still several times that of raw materials.

"The deep processing income is large, and it is not easy to achieve the transformation." The Deng family introduced it. They made great determination, and the light equipment invested more than 2 million yuan. In 2012, the company tried to produce a group of deep -processed products including cooked beans and ear hanging ears, but the market responded to this. "To put it plainly, we are used to transactions in the early days and do not have enough cognition of the market. I thought that there is a good market for good products. Later, I found that operations and production are two different things."

Pu'er ethnic minority girls dry coffee beans. Photo by Chen Hongqing

In 2013, Aihuan Manor began to enter the field of e -commerce. At first, it only rely on its own operations. Online sales and product performance increased slowly, which has always been tepid. In 2020, through cooperation with an e -commerce company in Hangzhou, the other party provided a full set of online sales solutions, which opened the online track. The product packaging of Aiyi Manor began to clearly write clear beans, baking methods, and unique flavors, so that consumers can understand the characteristics of the product more clearly. In 2020, the online sales of Aiyi Manor turned over, and it turned over in 2021. "We do a good job of products. Professional people will help us broaden sales channels. Looking at this trend this year, sales can still be turned over." Deng family said. In addition to doing the deep industry chain, many companies are also working hard to develop coffee derivative products, trying to "wide" the industrial chain. Founded in 1988, Yunnan Simao Beibei Coffee Co., Ltd. was the earliest local supplier in Pu'er when Nestlé Coffee entered China. Relying on the cost of more than one million yuan each year, the company has independently developed products such as coffee wine, coffee fruit tea, coffee or fruit vinegar, coffee soap and other products.

"Coffee is all treasures, and the most used is the coffee bean part, and other parts of the flesh also have high economic value." Deng Jialu, general manager of Beigui Coffee Co., Ltd., said, "We should open our minds and not limit it. For drinking drinks, the coffee industry has more value waiting to be explored. "

The coffee farmers in Fuyan Town, Menglian County, Pu'er City are tanning coffee beans to prepare to make boutique coffee. Luo Hengli Photo

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