"Collagen material" Chinese and foreign corporate raw materials compete for smoke permeating

A few days ago, "Collagen Materials", as one of the "Key Technical Series of Advanced Chemical Materials", was published on the 100th anniversary of the establishment of the Chinese Chemical Society.

According to the "Future FutureBeauty", the "Key Technical Series of Advanced Chemical Materials" is the director of the editorial committee of Xue Qunji, an academician of the Chinese Academy of Engineering, and the editorial board is composed of 64 people, including 24 academicians. Members of the editorial committee have won more than 60 national science and technology progress awards, national technology invention awards, and the National Natural Science Awards. [1]

It can be said that this editorial committee has gathered top scholars in various fields of Chinese advanced engineering materials. It can be seen that the "collagen material" industry has a high degree of attention.

The leader of the reorganized collagen has also received widespread attention in the industry.

In recent years, many companies such as Juyuan Biological, Jinsheng, Shiseido and other companies have also entered the game, which means that the application of restructuring collagen in the field of beauty cosmetics has also begun to go to a higher level; and the deeper meaning behind The competition for Chinese and foreign companies in the raw material side of the beauty and cosmetics field has been filled with smoke.

01

The origin of the raw material war

There will be competition for commercial places, and the competition for key core technologies has always been the highlight of commercial competition. However, in the field of beauty and cosmetics, Chinese companies have gone through a long time.

In the 1980s, with the popularization of "science and technology is the primary productivity" concept, the joint venture trend of "changing technology" in the market rose in all walks of life. At that time, a group of well -known local daily chemical companies such as Shanghai Jiahua, Langqi, Panda, and other well -known Chinese -well -known daily chemical enterprises were jointly jointly ventured. However, the end result is very different from the initial imagination. Instead of obtaining core technology, Chinese companies have lost their original market.

After paying a huge price, it was finally in exchange for a lesson- "The key core technology is to come, buy, or be invited."

From the 1990s until the 1990s, in the 30 years, Chinese local daily chemical enterprises have been using channels and bonuses brought by new media for its original accumulation of capital, but in the basic research field involving core key technologies, It is not deeply involved.

"Chinese cosmetics companies have not really done a culture of scientific research before. Most of the energy in the past 10 to 15 years have been placed on formula research. R & D. Because international big names generally put basic research and development in the headquarters, and research institutes established in various countries, only do applications for local consumers. " A R & D engineer who had worked in the Global R & D headquarters worldwide said.

However, from around 2020, the enthusiasm of Chinese cosmetics companies in the field of basic research has increased significantly, and the competition for new cosmetics raw materials for Chinese and foreign companies has become increasingly fierce.

According to the statistics of "FutureBeauty FutureBeauty", with the opening of the new cosmetics registration and filing system on May 1, 2021, it was opened in the online service hall of the State Drug Administration. As of September 16, 2022, 36 new raw materials have passed the record. Among them, there are more than half of the new raw materials applied for domestic enterprises.

The core factor that promoted local enterprises to make this change comes from three aspects:

The first is the change at the consumer level.

According to data from the seventh census in 2020, the number of people in China from 100,000 people in China rose from 8930 in 2010 to 15,467. This means that the popularization rate of higher education in China has doubled in the past 10 years.

At the same time, statistics from the China Internet Information Center show that in the past 10 years, the number of netizens in China has also increased from 457 million in 2010 to 986 million in 2020, doubled.

The improvement of consumer knowledge levels The convenience of information dissemination brought by the Internet has made consumers a "big bang" of consumers' "curiosity" of consumer goods. What are the ingredients in cosmetics and how to achieve the effects of how to achieve it.

Consumers' attention to skin care products also changed.

According to a survey in 2021, 79.3%of consumers said that their attention to skin care products has undergone significant changes in the past three years. The specific manifestations are the attention of skin care ingredients, efficacy and safety is much greater than the focus of brand awareness and cost -effectiveness. [2]

(Data from iResearch Consultation)

This makes the marketing of cosmetics increasingly biased "ingredients" and "popular science". Scientists have become important link points for quickly establishing trust with consumers, and the value of scientific research has also begun to show more value in the marketing port.

In addition to consumers, another important change comes from the cosmetics and raw materials industry.

From the perspective of the underlying technology, the raw materials of cosmetics have mainly come from chemical synthesis in the past, but in recent years, with the continuous emergence of new technologies, the source of the raw materials of cosmetics has continued to be enriched.

At present, the four mainstream technology sources of "chemical synthesis, plant extraction, biological fermentation, and biological synthesis" have been formed. In particular, the breakthroughs of basic sciences such as biological engineering and genetic engineering technology are bringing more new raw materials to cosmetics. [3]

This has led to nearly 20 years, the concentration of patent CR10 in the global cosmetics and skin care products has continued to decline, the monopoly position of traditional enterprises is constantly being challenged, and the opportunities for emerging companies are increasing.

(Data from PATSNAP Patent Analysis Database and CITIC Securities Research Department) For the Chinese market, the changes in regulatory policies have opened a "new window" for new raw materials.

There are currently only 8,972 cosmetics raw materials that can be used by China, while more than 20,000 cosmetics raw materials have been used worldwide. It is foreseeable that with the opening of the new raw material registration and filing system, a large number of new raw materials will enter China in the next few years. A very obvious question is that who can win more new raw materials in this competition, and in future commercial competition, you can have more initiative.

Under the dual effects of internal causes and consumer causes from the industry, the raw material war of cosmetics is gradually lingering, but the restructuring collagen is one of the extremely special one.

02

Reorganized collagen research and development process

It is said that the reorganization of collagen is special because it has completed basic research and application research from 0 to 1 from 0 to 1 in the past 40 years, and finally moves towards industrialization. It is one of the raw materials for Chinese companies to master core technology.

On this difficult and long exploration, Professor Fan Daizheng, chief scientist of the giant biology, is a key figure.

She is the first doctoral student in biochemical industry in my country. [4]

In 1994, Fan Daizheng, who graduated from the PhD, returned to Northwestern University. After more than 6 years of uninterrupted efforts, the team passed all the way. By the end of 2000, the reorganized collagen produced through high -density fermentation production of genetic engineering technology. In 2001, the technology declared a national invention patent.

Collagen is a functional protein with the most content and most wide distribution of mammals. It exists in the skin, bones, joints, and hair, which can play a role in supporting, repairing, and anti -aging. Due to the unique physical and chemical properties and functions of collagen, it has become increasingly widely used in health foods, cosmetics, biomedical and other fields. [5]

At present, there are already 29 collagen types discovered by scientists, and the Latin letters are numbered to XXIX. The most applied in the field of beauty cosmetics is type I and III collagen, because these two types of collagen accounted for the highest proportion in human skin.

Before the birth of collagen, people were mainly extracted from animals such as pigs, cattle, and fish. However, animal source collagen has defects such as hidden viruses and rejection.

(Risk of animal -derived collagen)

Is there any safer collagen?

With the development of biological engineering and genetic engineering technology, by the 1990s, scientists began to explore the use of genetic engineering technology to choose "cloning" collagen such as transgenic plants, genetically modified animals, insect cells, bacteria, and yeast. This type of collagen is now collectively referred to as "restructuring collagen". [6]

Compared with traditional animal collagen, because the restructuring collagen is "cloned" based on the gene sequence of human collagen, it has natural advantages in terms of security.

In 1997, VUORELA and others successfully used Bichi Yeast to express the full sequence of people, II, and III collagen. But the output is only 0.2-0.6g/L. [6]

The team of Professor Fan Daizheng successfully resolved this problem, with fermentation output reaching 14-18 grams/liter.

Reorganized collagen technology is roughly composed of "engineering fungus construction", "high -density fermentation" and "separation and purification". [7]

(Flow chart)

The core of the construction of engineering fungi is to build an efficient "cell factory". The team built high -efficiency cell factories such as Bichi yeast, winemaking yeast, E. coli, and Bacillus Bacillus in the laboratory.

Through advanced "defect expression" and "molecular partner" technologies, the problem of low output caused by the poor output caused by the poor output of various functional components and chassis cells in the sequence special collagen expression system. [8]

If the construction of engineering fungus is the process of reorganizing collagen from 0 to 1, the stage of high -density fermentation and separation purification is the process of 1 to 100. The core is to optimize a series of factors such as process and temperature, which can efficiently produce target proteins.

After countless tests, 6 years of hard work, reorganizing collagen finally built the first international production line in China for the first time.

But the more difficult and fierce industrial competition began.

03

Cross "Innovation Death Valley"

In 2000, Fan Daixun became the chief scientist of giant biology, and opened the road to the industrialization of reorganizing collagen. And "dedicated to bringing technology from the laboratory into life, becoming a leading enterprise in China's beauty and health" as a corporate vision for giant creatures.

Many people don't know that behind this simple "corporate vision", there are actually countless "dangerous" hidden.

There is a difficult "Innovation Death Valley" in the laboratory to daily life. Li Yizhong, the president of the China Industrial Economic Federation and the Minister of Industry and Information Technology, said in a public report that there are many scientific and technological achievements in my country but the conversion rate is not high. About 30%.

In other words, 70%of laboratory scientific research results failed to cross the "Valley of Death" into people's daily life.

(Innovation Death Valley Show)

"If industrialization is not performed, reorganization collagen stays in the laboratory is tantamount to dead road."

In the field of cosmetics, the road to the entire industrial chain opened from the raw material side needs to complete sales through basic research and application research, industrial standardization, commercial standardization, design and marketing and laying channels, and then use sales to obtain profit feeding basic research and application research. Large cycles can be regarded as holding the heel. [9] (Demonstration diagram of large cycle of industry, research and research)

The biggest enemy in this process is time.

From Professor Fan Daiyu in 1994, he began to intervene in collagen research to the establishment of giant creatures in 2000. In fact, the first step of this cycle of "basic research and application basic research" and the "industrial standardization" stage of this cycle were only completed. The giant creature really completed this cycle by 2008.

From 1994 to 2008, the continuous investment in 14 years was not enough for everyone to persist. Because of this, Chinese local cosmetics companies have rarely entered the "basic research" from the raw material end in the past few decades. Instead, using the dividends at different stages of the market, we have taken a path of upgrading of the "5 -level frog jump".

(Local cosmetics companies build a level 5 "frog jet" with the core competitiveness of scientific research)

However, when the wheels of history have entered today, when all the dividends have begun to dissipate, whether it is enterprises such as giant creatures from the beginning, or local cosmetics companies that have been accumulated in staged accumulation, including each of them, including each of each, including each Big multinational companies have reached the "center of the stage" at the same time.

The comprehensive competition around the "entire industry chain cycle" has been fully launched.

04

Three inspiration to the cosmetics industry

From the perspective of the entire Chinese cosmetics industry research, the significance of the giant biological enterprise is not marketing, channels, or product development, but because of its core competitiveness of building enterprises through the "integration of the entire industry chain" to build an enterprise's core competitiveness. explore.

In the past 40 years, the core competitiveness of the vast majority of cosmetics companies in China has been in both "channels" and "marketing". At present, there are only "giant creatures, Huaxi creatures, and Furida". Study started, and the core competitiveness was built through the "integration of the entire industry chain". Behind Huaxi Biological and Furida is "hyaluronic acid", behind the giant creature is "reorganizing collagen".

It can be seen through the development of these companies that they almost do not follow market hotspots, but continue to build competition barriers through long -term focusing on a certain professional field.

Taking giant creatures as an example, it has accumulated 75 national invention patents and patent applications in the field of restructuring collagen, and has participated in drafting and formulating the YY/T1849-2022 "Reorganization Collagen" of the Chinese Food and Drug Inspection Research Institute. Industry Standard.

As one of the 15 key technologies selected by the Chinese Chemical Society, the book "Collagen Materials" was also written by Professor Fan Daizheng, and was written with the scientific research results of giant creatures.

After more than 20 years of continuous accumulation, giant creatures have built the world's most comprehensive restructuring collagen expression system. In the three mainstream reorganization collagen expression systems of Bichi yeast, winemark, and E. coli, all have been established. Independent intellectual property rights.

At present, the study of giant creatures in the field of restructuring collagen has entered the field of "peptides".

Peptide is also called polypeptide or peptide, which is formed by the amino acids with a certain sequence through an amide bond. Therefore, if it is composed of 2 amino acids, it is called two peptides, and 3 amino acids are called triple peptides.

(The difference between amino acids, oligth peptide and protein)

Peptide plays an important role in the growth, development and metabolism of creatures. Almost all kinds of physiological processes in the human body are regulated by polypeptides or proteins composed of specific amino acid sequences. In the process of natural aging and care, peptides play an important role, such as cell proliferation, cell migration, inflammation, pigmentation, protein synthesis and regulation [11].

According to "FutureBeauty", giant creatures have obtained a mini small molecular reorganization collagen peptide through specific hydrolyzed technology. The molecular weight is only 217 Dalton, which is the minimum molecular weight on the market.

Because human skin naturally has a barrier to resist external material invasion, it is difficult to be absorbed by the human body through the skin with large molecular amount.

Although there are no official standards that the substances that are largely measured cannot be absorbed by the skin, the relevant requirements of "translucent absorption" in the latest "Technical Guidance of Cosmetics Safety Assessment" can be seen that the composition of molecular weight is greater than 1,000 Dalton Or raw materials do not need to do permeable absorption test.

In other words, the official believes that the material with a molecular weight is more than 1,000 Dalton, which is actually difficult to absorb through the skin.

At present, the restructuring collagen peptide on the market is rare. The mainstream collagen peptide comes from fish and other animals, and most of their molecular weights are above 500 Dalton. [12]

It can be seen that even in the field of peptides, giant creatures can still build deeper moats along the restructuring collagen.

This is also from the perspective of "integration of the entire industry chain". Another revelation brought by the giant creature to the industry: all technologies will have a growth and decline cycle, and the ideal sustainable R & D echelon is often the "one generation, studying generation, and reserving generation. "". Although reorganized collagen is currently in a "import period", when this technology is launched, the reserves of the next generation of technology have actually begun. (Life cycle diagram of hot cosmetics composition)

The third revelation of the "integration of the entire industry chain" of giant creatures brings the industry's third revelation to the efficient utilization of social R & D resources.

In more than 20 years of long basic research, giant creatures participated in three national development plan projects and two "863" plans and other national development plans. Prospective major scientific and technological issues, breaking the important scientific and technological funding channels for the technical bottlenecks of the main areas of national economic and social development. With the help of the "integration of the entire industry chain", giant biology has truly realized the mission of "beautiful and health of biotechnology services".

As Xue Qunji, an academician of the Chinese Academy of Engineering, wrote in the preface of the "Key Technical Series of Advanced Chemical Materials": "The key core technology is not to come, buy or discuss." The joint venture "obtains key technologies, and temporarily shelves the pursuit of key technologies in heavy marketing. After the exploration of the two stages, it will have to face the" basic scientific research "and" raw material war "to move towards the road of integration of the entire industry chain.

Fortunately, this road has never been barren!

This article mainly refers to

, The Chinese Chemical Society, the 100th anniversary of the establishment of the Chinese Chemical Society, the publication of the "Key Technology Series of Advanced Chemical Materials";

, Iri Consultation, China Efficiency Skin Care Industry Research Report, December 2021;

, Du Yifan, Xu Xiaofang, the topic of cosmetics and raw materials of beauty and commercial industries -raw materials rivers and lakes, who is the main ups and downs, CITIC Securities Research Department, May 2022;

[4], Ma Fengmin, Fan Daizheng: Write a beautiful life with collagen, China High -tech Industrial Herald/2009/December/28th/28/No. 014

[5], Zha Qingqing, Nie Shanshan, Yu Wen, reorganizing collagen research progress and its application, China washing supplies industry, 2002.08.009;

[6], Wei Chun et al., The research progress of genetic engineering technology production reorganization collagen, fermented technology communication, March 2021, Vol. 50, Issue 1;

[7], Fan Daiyu, Duan Mingrui, Mi Yu, et al.. Reorganize E. Coli engineering bacteria high density culture production human-source collagen [J].

[8], Fan Daiyu, etc., collagen material, key technology series of advanced chemical materials, Beijing Chemical Industry Press, 2022.6

[9], Mei Hexiang, the current status and misunderstanding of the research and development of Chinese cosmetics raw materials;

[10], Huang Yadong. The application of biological active polypeptides in medical beauty [C]. The 10th Southeast Asian Medical Beauty Academic Conference Paper, 2006: 14-17.

[11], sduquesne, d destourieux-gar zón, J Peduzzi, RT al. GeneEncodedibacterial Peptides from Enterobacteria [J]. Natural ProductRports, 2007, 24 (4): 708.

[12], Bai Lei, Wang Yang, Tian Xiaoying, Wang Guanhang. Collagen peptide improves the potential of the skin and improves its biological utilization [J/OL]. China Organization Engineering Research;

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