Industry Observation ｜ Cosmetics Competition Advanced: Component Competition

21st Century Business Herald Reporter Ye Bihua Intern Zeng Peiqian Guangzhou reported

China is the world's second largest cosmetics consumer market. According to data from the National Bureau of Statistics, the retail sales of Chinese cosmetics in 2021 were 402.6 billion yuan, an increase of 18%year -on -year.

One of the obvious changes is the gradual transformation from a large country consumer country to a strong country of cosmetics.

For example, control over upstream raw materials. In the early days, Chinese cosmetics raw materials mostly focused on the parity replacement of foreign ingredients, repeated competition in some large fields, such as low -end surfactants, oil, emulsifiers, etc. However, with the booming development of the downstream cosmetics market in recent years, the rise of domestic products brands, and the entry of capital hot money, many "Chinese ingredients" have appeared. Related data show that since January 1, 2021, 27 new raw materials have been filed. The Chinese cosmetics industry is accelerating the new stage of component competition.

One of the reasons behind is the rise of the "ingredient party". Some surveys show that 72%of consumers want brands to actively explain the efficacy of product components to consumers; more than 60%of consumers hope to explain the source of product components.

Masming, vice president of L'Oreal North Asia and China R & D and Innovation Center, said, "Chinese consumers are very concerned about high -performance ingredients. Whenever a popular ingredient, Chinese consumers must be very curious, and they have a lot of knowledge. "Wang Yi, president of Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products, believes that consumers' needs and cognition of ingredients have spawned more new products, and at the same time bring the core upgrade of product supply and marketing, and put forward higher requirements and expectations for industry innovation capabilities.

"No efficacy without skin care"

"No efficacy and no skin care" has become the consensus of the cosmetics industry, and the efficacy of cosmetics depends to a large extent on the efficacy of raw materials. With the popularization of cosmetics ingredients, consumers are more and more valid in the safety and effectiveness of ingredients. In the past, brand owners may only need business response to consumer demand. Now, the era of cosmetics that needs to make efficacy with raw materials and formulas has arrived.

Taking anti -aging as an example, anti -aging skin care products are regarded as one of the most potential consumer markets in contemporary contemporary. The market research company Zion Market Research reported that the global anti -aging skin care market size reached US $ 216 billion in 2021, an increase of 7.5%year -on -year. According to the data of Tmall channels in 2021, among the cosmetics categories, China's retail sales of anti -aging market reached 87 billion yuan, an increase of 11%year -on -year, and the unit unit price was 229 yuan. The unit unit price increased by 21%. The industry generally believes that China's anti -aging cosmetics consumption exceeds 100 billion yuan.

At present, Bose factors, retinol, and polypeptides are regarded as the three giants of anti -aging ingredients. Blue copper peptide is one of the polypeptides. It is gentle and friendly to the skin and obvious anti -aging effects. Data show that the number of products containing blue copper peptide components in the past three years has increased significantly. From more than 8,000 products in 2019 to the current 24587 products, it has been recorded, an increase of 6.65%year -on -year. As of June this year, 8427 brands have used blue copper peptide raw materials, and 1839 factories have used blue copper peptides.

But the reality is that the blue copper peptide still has difficulty in the field of cosmetics. Not only is the price high, but it is also facing problems such as stability and poor penetration during the product development process.

Most of the blue -copper peptide products on the market are low viscosity water products, with few emulsion -like essences, and the product formula system and texture are similar. Only the content of blue copper peptide is different. comprehensive. It is difficult to produce the essence of blue copper peptide with high skin feel, high stability, and high -efficiency.

OGP, a technological anti -aging brand of Huaxizi's parent company, is trying to overcome difficulties in related fields. According to OGP R & D Director Tiansai previously revealed at the "Blue Copper Peptide Cosmetics Innovation International Summit" that after several years of innovative research and development, the team successfully created the blue crystal peptide anti -aging system to ensure the efficient application of the blue and copper peptide ingredients in cosmetics in cosmetics. Essence Once the bottleneck is broken, it means that the blue copper peptide has the opportunity to become the mainstream component of the new generation of anti -aging cosmetics.

Advanced competition

2021 is considered to be the first year when the Chinese cosmetics industry has transformed from marketing -driven to efficacy. This year, the national "14th Five -Year Plan" planned the cosmetics industry to a strategic level. Relevant regulations are introduced to provide important benchmarks for cosmetics companies to measure products.

As the president of L'Oreal North Asian and CEO of China, Ferbouri said: "New regulations have a very active role in promoting the beauty industry, which can better help Chinese consumers get higher quality, safer, more more safer, more safer, more safer, more safer, more safer, more safer, more safer, more safer, more safer, and more safer, and more safer, more secure, and more more than High -efficiency beauty products. "

At the same time, under the wave of consumer demand and the promotion of related regulations, domestic and foreign companies have also accelerated the component competition. Before the patented ingredients of the SK-II Fairy Water Essence, L'Oreal began to prepare for the second-hand, or even the third and fourth-handed preparations. In recent years, the new niche component skin care brand has been introduced to the Chinese market.

Local brands also use exclusive raw materials as a strong starting point for the market. For example, Peroya's ruby ​​essence adds an exclusive raw material super molecular vitamin A alcohol; Venona's special cream adds patented ingredients such as green pear oil and purslane extract; The exclusive ingredients "Super Yeast Ximo Yin"; Maru Mami applied exclusive ingredients in dual -collagen series products. Dabao, who relies on Johnson & Johnson Group, also regards innovation as an important driving force for the brand's future. According to Wang Yi, the sales level of Dabao brand in the country has basically exceeded 1.6 billion yuan. The entire Johnsonal Consumer Products sector will focus on three categories: skin care products, infant skin care products, and oral care. "We have accumulated a lot in the health field. Related technology and reserves, consumer goods also benefit from such technical reserves. In the future, more technical capabilities will be applied to the product line. It is hoped that more products can be introduced in the Chinese market that have been developed and verified by the market. "

The ingredients and formulas have become more and more measure of cosmetics. Major enterprises have achieved advanced competition through core components and continuously upgraded their products and brand images. Under this trend, the market will test the technical breakthroughs, and it will undoubtedly put forward higher requirements for the brand's research and development capabilities.

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